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SEGA Racing Hero Restoration WIP

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Hi all, I'm a bit of a sucker for SEGA sprite scaler games and have picked up a SEGA Racing Hero from a fellow AA member in Vic. My previous restoration was a SEGA Out Run which you can also find here so I have some experience with these cabs but there's always something to learn.

Here is the cab as shown on the flyer. It is a Japanese sit down version. 2 versions were made, sit down and upright and they seem to be pretty rare, possibly due to the game not adding anything new and the cab not being a moving type that SEGA fans had become accustom too. Overall though Racing Hero is a great game with some outstanding music. This was one of the first games that SEGA sourced out-house. The game was made by Aicom and the music was produced not by Hiro, but by Hikoshi Hashimoto.


So far ive had around 3 weeks on this project so going forward I will share updates with new posts.

If anyone has a Racing Hero, please feel free to share some pictures or if you have any spare part from one, a Sega GP Rider Or AB Cop please let me know here.







Edited by outrun86
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I picked up this project with a few known issues and some I found after the initial look over it.

key issues below-

No image on the CRT (White screen- known at pick up)



No audio at all (Known at pick up)

The wood work of the cab was rough at the bottom (Looks to be water damage and under further investigation there’s been mice living in there so mouse pee). Brackets and lower metal parts are severely rusted and wood crumbling.



Steering handle has a lot of play and throttle is sticking.

No brake lever

Lots of small issues along the way!


The first thing I thought I would investigate was the sound. There is a SEGA Amp and 2 stereo speakers. The speaker wires were missing from the amp to the speakers and also there were two wires cut from the PCB filter board to the Amp. I couldn’t source a Racing Hero owners manual online but found the SEGA GP Rider manual had the information that match RH hardware.(Ground and Mute were the cables that were cut). Speaker cables made and cut wires soldered together.

After removing the metal heat sink case on the Amp I found the 6A fuse to be blown. I cleaned the Amp PCB and soldered in a new fuse.







Audio issue fixed!  What a great OST this game has!

Next post will focus on Video.....




Edited by outrun86
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On to the Video... First off I pulled the CRT out and removed the chassis to give it a good clean. Using something similar to simple green I sprayed it on and let it soak in. Then it was washed off with a slow running hose and I used a toothbrush lightly to get out the grime.


It gave me a chance then to have a good look over the chassis with a magnifying glass. The CRT was able to be adjusted in to get an image from the original white screen by adjusting the Flyback and colour gain pots. I found a few issue during adjustment, the Vertical adjust didn’t work and the brightness on chassis may of had a dry solder spot and moving it made the image go crazy.


Upon further inspection of the CRT Resistor  R401 was blow which looks to be linked to the vertical adjust.

The other issue is that the Flyback has a crack which can be a common issue with the Sanwa PM1723C 😞

I need to investigate if this can be replaced and repaired.






Edited by outrun86
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Coin Door - 

Never seen a coin door with  Japanese text ‘Return’ button. The door and frame is in pretty good condition and just required a light sanding and clean. The plastic return was sanded and polished and the return door metal polished. I used a Semi gloss back enamel spray which gave great results and looked very much like the original finish. The bulb was fitted correctly and wire harness soaked and cleaned. The bottom door wouldn’t close so I knock the hinges in with a mallet. New SEGA keys are on order from Highway Entertainment.







Edited by outrun86
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Steering Handle -

This was a lot of work and hours, just like the Out Run steering mech a few years back. I used the SEGA GP Rider exploded diagram to help with disassembly and assembly with this one.


Here’s the before photos. 



one of the worst parts of the handle restore was the bumper stops. They should be a solid polyurethane material but had degraded and melted to a sticky black liquid, something along the lines of Venom lol. Just hoped it didn’t chase me down! 


I will do an edit update later today with the after photos.





Edited by outrun86
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56 minutes ago, Boots said:

The handle looks similar to a hangon upright???

I’ve got one of them to rebuild 

I would of thought it was similar but looking at the Hang On manual I’m not so sure.

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10 hours ago, Boots said:

The handle looks similar to a hangon upright???

I’ve got one of them to rebuild 

I would of thought it was similar but looking at the Hang On manual I’m not so sure.

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Here’s the after progress of the Steering handle work. All parts were striped down, degreased and cleaned. Parts were repainted and then reassembled and greased. Some wiring had exposed metal so these were cut, soldered and heat shrinked.


The bumpers that had melted were replaced with rubber blocks that were drilled and then cut to size.


The plastic cover was cleaned, polished and the start button striped and cleaned too. Handles were scrubbed with a toothbrush and warm soapy water.

The brake lever was missing and the only place I could find a dedicated one was in the USA. I managed to pick up an identical looking lever from an Aussie online motorbike shop (MX Store). Just a little work left to connect it to the brake pot.


Lastly I added a ‘Turbo’ button as the plan will be to run a multi board in the cab that plays Racing Hero, Super Hang On, Hang On and Hang On Jr.


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Cabinet -

By far the  worst area with this machine was the bottom of the cabinet woodwork. It looks to of been sitting in water at some point and the ply was just crumbling away. Lower area metal parts like the castors (only 2 of 4 were still present) were also suffering from water damage and had deep rust issues. Many of the fixing bolts and screw just snapped off when it started disassembly.


The base looked to have housed mice or rats at one stage as there was a bed of chewed timber, several holes with teeth marks and a nasty smell of what I can only guess as rodent p*ss.

I decided it would be best to totally remove and replace these panels instead of chopping off bad areas. Man, SEGA really fix these things together well. Staples, Screws, hidden dowels and strong wood glue took some serious battling with a mallet, screwdriver and chisel at times.

The first panel to come off was the base and eventually both sides. Key here was to not damage the front 3 panels and keep them intact.


I went with an MDF base and laminated boards for the sides and used what was left of the original parts for templates. The side panels had to have a groove cut so it butted up to the angled front panels.


I reinforced the front as some of the ply had fallen off. The base will sit within a groove with these three panels.


Cutting the angled grooves. I screwed in a temporary piece of timber to keep the circular saw accurate.

Several days of gluing and assembly then took place and the cabinet was finally rot free!!


The whole lower cab area was sanded down, filled and primed.


All lower black area is now painted. I’ll be back with further updates in the future.



Edited by outrun86
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