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Playfield Restoration - Advice Appreciated


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Hi Everyone,

I managed to find a local legend who clear coated my entire playfield. My next move is to do the artwork (airbrush) before doing one more (final) clearcoat. I have a small issue with just one or two of the inserts: they are slightly raised. I've run a ball over them and it doesnt seem to be an issue. Would it be worth sanding back the raised edges? If so, how do you suggest I go about doing that? I'm assuming I would have to do this before airbrushing the artwork? Thanks for the input!

Josh

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You’re going to need to knock that back a bit before any touch ups anyway. Sand the insert back a little whilst doing that. 
On the first seal coat I put extra around the inserts to fill the gap between the wood and insert. 

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7 minutes ago, Boof Head said:

You’re going to need to knock that back a bit before any touch ups anyway. Sand the insert back a little whilst doing that. 
On the first seal coat I put extra around the inserts to fill the gap between the wood and insert. 

Thanks for the tip James. What grit would you use? 600? Wet or dry? And would you do it by hand? 

 

Part of me feels like I should just be doing little touch ups because after the clear coat (2 pac) there are parts of that playfield that look perfect as is.

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It all depends on if you’re happy or not with the finish. 
If you are getting anything else on it you need to block it flat or at least a bit flatter than it is. The bumps and lumps will get bigger. 
I use a fine finish orbital sander with a 800 grit to flatten out. Be careful though or your touch ups will grow. 

Edited by Boof Head
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1 hour ago, Boof Head said:

It all depends on if you’re happy or not with the finish. 
If you are getting anything else on it you need to block it flat or at least a bit flatter than it is. The bumps and lumps will get bigger. 
I use a fine finish orbital sander with a 800 grit to flatten out. Be careful though or your touch ups will grow. 

Got it. So orbital sander with 800 grit before doing the artwork?

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If it is your first attempt I'd block sand and take your time. Depending on how thick the clear is and how long it has cured for is it's pretty easy to go too far quickly with a sander even with high grade paper.

Wet and dry 600 (if surface is quite uneven) or 800 (if surface is pretty good) with a mist of water from a spray bottle is generally my starting point. The aim is to get the clear flat prior to touch ups. That'll make the final clear coats a piece of cake. 

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Hi All,

Well, I’ve completely f@&ed my playfield. Last week, I had it clear coated. Took it to someone who has their own professional spray booth. They used a 2 pac clear coat then baked it for 10-15 mins. It looked unreal. Took it home and after a couple days I gave it a wet sand with 600 grit. Problems started when I laid down the frisket (and Oramask), the clear started to lift off the playfield. I forged ahead and laid down one of the colours with my airbrush. After the Createx dried, some stuck to the playfield but parts were lifting off. The paint stuck to the clear but the clear was lifting off the playfield. I’d really appreciate some advice.

I’ve put so much effort into this restoration only to see this happen

 

ill have to now blow off all the clear and start again. I’ve been told the clear isn't working with the base material.  The clear you would of used would do  same. . Most likely it was originally finished in a oil based clear. Like a timber floor clear (See attached pic)

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Edited by Josh Cohen
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I used shellite (naphtha) to clean before the clear

Once the clear had set (2 days after spraying), I rubbed down using wet 600 and 800 grit sandpaper to give the playfield some “tooth” for the paint to adhere to.

Cleaned with shellite again before covering with frisket and painting. 

The clear only started to lift when I removed the frisket. 

Edited by Josh Cohen
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I don’t understand. Did you sand the playfield to give it tooth before the clear? 
If you didn’t that will be the problem here. 
Also it will have had years of wax applied to it. A really good thorough cleaning would be needed. 

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Is Shellite the recommended product to then apply paint of any kind too?. I would have thought being oil based would make it unsuitable but then again I have never attempted painting a playfield.

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last 2 steps prior to  2 pak spray is  - knowing the playfield has been sanded  600 n to 800   grit -  ive used the below pri=oduct   then a  rag with metho    then 2 pak clear  , m ist coat   then  breif break   then north south east west ,, any chips or divots  i have used what was left in mix cup uasing the back of a paint brush drips in any area i need to builkd up prior to spraying ,,,   i once had a playfield with many areas to build up  ,, i clamped a drill and off set a bit to the table i was spraying on  and used the vibration to help level the clear  ,, like i said N<S<E<W   and full coats   it works for me    ,, if yoyu are in Brisbane ill be doing a playfield in a few weeks  be more than happy to show you how i do things

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That's a bummer. Sounds like the clear hasn't stuck to the base playfield. Just cleaning isn't enough. Before any clear is applied the base needs to be roughed up a bit to give the clear something to anchor to.

With WPC diamond plate playfields you sand the original clear and then clear coat. With older playfields that have little or no clear I think I read somewhere you can use magic eraser to rough up the surface a bit without impacting paint too much before clearing. 

Unfortunately I think you are going to have to sand back the clear and try again. Good luck. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, john17a said:

last 2 steps prior to  2 pak spray is  - knowing the playfield has been sanded  600 n to 800   grit -  ive used the below pri=oduct   then a  rag with metho    then 2 pak clear  , m ist coat   then  breif break   then north south east west ,, any chips or divots  i have used what was left in mix cup uasing the back of a paint brush drips in any area i need to builkd up prior to spraying ,,,   i once had a playfield with many areas to build up  ,, i clamped a drill and off set a bit to the table i was spraying on  and used the vibration to help level the clear  ,, like i said N<S<E<W   and full coats   it works for me    ,, if yoyu are in Brisbane ill be doing a playfield in a few weeks  be more than happy to show you how i do things

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Hey John, I’m in GC but happy to come up to Brissie. Would appreciate you letting me see how you do things. Please keep me posted 0401 559 210. Josh

1 hour ago, jono said:

That's a bummer. Sounds like the clear hasn't stuck to the base playfield. Just cleaning isn't enough. Before any clear is applied the base needs to be roughed up a bit to give the clear something to anchor to.

With WPC diamond plate playfields you sand the original clear and then clear coat. With older playfields that have little or no clear I think I read somewhere you can use magic eraser to rough up the surface a bit without impacting paint too much before clearing. 

Unfortunately I think you are going to have to sand back the clear and try again. Good luck. 

 

 

Yep. Sand back and start again. Paid $100 to have the playfield clearcoated. This crappy old machine has cost me a damn fortune. 

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4 hours ago, Autosteve said:

Is Shellite the recommended product to then apply paint of any kind too?. I would have thought being oil based would make it unsuitable but then again I have never attempted painting a playfield.

Shellite is perfect for this. I use it all the time. 

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52 minutes ago, Boof Head said:

Shellite is perfect for this. I use it all the time. 

Ow I'm being educated here. I can honestly say I never knew what Shellite was used for. Can you use it to clean any surface before you paint?. Ok for water and oil based paints?.

I've always used water and let dry or metho and let it dry or solvent for metal on cars prior to painting or just vacumn the dust off but hey, I've seen some of the playfields you guys have cleared so if it's shellite you use, I'll be doing that way next time.

I've never done a playfield and would regard my painting skills as poor so this is all new to me.

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