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Arcade King
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Tron!

I won this machine in auction in 2012 for $506. It belonged to a local movie director and he had it in his mancave which wasn't the ideal location for a cabinet made of particle board! 

The floor was damp and I believe they had a big party and destroyed a part of the roof which let even more moisture. See the pics for the description. 

It did run for a little bit when I bought it but eventually it went up in smoke and it's has been dragged around with me since. Every time I moved it I said to myself this will be the last time it will be moved without falling to bits, because it was, and it would leave a trail of particle board across the shed floors like a crusty snail. 

So 9 years later it is time to get it Tron Upright #17549 sorted...

 

 

 

 

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Edited by spacies
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Haha fire extinguisher!

Truly a classic machine and worthy of saving but boy a lot of work to come.


You might need one of these too mate 😉

Fox Tv Idol Finale GIF by American Idol

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Well, in to it. I am going to try and save the cabinet instead of building a new one. 

Snapped a few quick pics, pulled the base out and stripped it completely 🤙

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Posted (edited)

With a trusty 2 litres of glue I topped up the small bottle and hooking it to it.

As you see in the pics, the bottom of the side panels are shot. The base sat inside the sides with a dado but because of the damage I have pretty much lost any fixing point so my plan is to have two bases. One internal between the sides and other will be to the outside of the sides. This will give me back the 18mm that has been lost with damage and trimming flush. 

It'll make more sense in the pics as I go 🤙

For extra support, blocking strips are added internally and a bigger one behind the kickpanel. HEAPS of glue and a lot of clamps later the first base is attached...

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Measured up and cut a new bottom rear panel on the CNC. This is also fixed with blocking strips and overhangs the first base by 18mm. The new base will sit flush with it 🤙

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Edited by spacies
speeling ;)
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Posted (edited)

Second base and the rear panel fixed together. 

Having the second base flush with the sides gives me the option to seal up the flaky particle board and fill with the two types of resins. 

BTW, I did think about chopping the whole bottom section off about a foot high, but because the the thickness of the sides is and odd width (probably swollen) it was going to make things difficult. So I am happy to go this way. I am pretty confident with my skillset and the master plan 🤙

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This corner was a bit too shit to try and fix/fill. So Chop chop! Note the little 2mm packer to get the correct width as mentioned above.

 

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Edited by spacies
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Posted (edited)

A video I forgot to add earlier: *Edit* Added video to post #8 above. 

And another with the CNC. Lucky to have this weapon!

 

 

Edited by spacies
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Cheers jbtech. Getting through it!

Righto, time for those crossbrace repairs. I managed to cut one part off and reuse it, so I just had to make the section that holds the top rear door in place.

🤙

 

Got a few spare parts on the floor. Tron dust anyone??🤣

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10 minutes ago, thejudge said:

Getting there. Would love access to one of those cnc routers.

Yeah handy for sure. I have been setting up my workshop for a couple of years now because I want to do almost everything in house and work from home is the master plan. 

 

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It's nice to see you've decided to save as much of the original cabinet as possible even though it's probably more time consuming than making a complete reproduction.

Great work! Regards, John

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30 minutes ago, jbtech said:

It's nice to see you've decided to save as much of the original cabinet as possible even though it's probably more time consuming than making a complete reproduction.

Great work! Regards, John

Ha ha. You're right! I could've easily cut a new cabinet and I few years ago I would've busted this up, hung the side panels on the wall and made a new one. Now I am all about preservation. I think it'll scrub up ok 👍

 

 

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Sweet!

With those repairs done, I stood it up for a photo shoot :classic_laugh:

 

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Time to seal this sucker up!

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Two epoxies there. The left ones are timber sealer. The right one is a no-sag thick paste for the filling. Both 1:1 and dry hard, especially that Woodlok! The timber sealer is designed to penetrate the timber and lock it up and bond everything back together. It penetrates well because it is thin. I poured it on the cabinet and used to brush to bring it down it to the areas that needed it.

 

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So you can see in that pic what I am dealing with and why I chose to do it this way with the extra base right out to the edges. It's a freaking mess! If I tried to fill and shape that with bog, it'll just break off with the slightest knock. You will also see why I added that extra wide blocking strip behind the kickpanel cos that'll stop the epoxies from disappearing! For this kick panel I am going to fibreglass fill it and there is a plastic strip that goes across this area on the front but I'll still make it mint.

 

It's well soaked but'll be hard in 24 hrs 🤙

 

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, thegrunta666 said:

This is the cabinet that just keeps on giving...keep up the good work, as it looks like you have a fair bit more to do !

Ha ha. Keeps kicking me in the nuts!

I whacked a screwdriver down in the crack and poured in some slightly watered down glue until it wouldn't take any more. Then went up and down the tmolding slot (I'll need to recut it later anyway) doing the same thing and put those floating bits back in place. 

All the clamps on. Should be good!

 

Oh, and a snap of the serial number on the top panel.

 

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Edited by spacies
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Morning!

Bog it up son!

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This is a fibreglass filler. It's really good stuff but blinkin' difficult to get out of the container and mix with the hardener. If you use this stuff have two filling blades ready cos you need to 'slice' it as you pull it out. Be very thorough when you mix it up because it just moves around in one big blob. Having said that once you lay it down it actually spreads quite nice and has excellent filling capabilities. So, a blast with the sander and it's time to Phil McCrackin :classic_laugh:

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Note the little bits of fibreglass. WEAR A MASK WHEN SANDING. I used a sander with a vacuum and a mask. Doubly safe!

 

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Below is the right hand side of the cabinet which was actually pretty good. It got a quick skim as well. 

 

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It sands down real nice and will get a couple of layers.

 

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Oh, pro tip of the day! It's easy to work on if the area is at eye level. So....

 

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:classic_laugh::classic_laugh::classic_laugh:

 

 

 

 

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Couple layers of the glass filler done. Now for this bad side.

I mixed up the epoxy, spooned it on the the side and levelled it with a large plastering knife. Although this stuff dries hard, it does have some flexibility. Kind of like a really stiff piece of plastic. 

It starts to harden after a couple of hours and it'll be ok to sand in 24 hrs. Maximum hardness is 7 days. SHould be sweet for some filler tomorrow.

🤙

 

 

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      /* Arduino 256 RGB LEDs Matrix Animation Frame * Using WS2812 LED Strips Created by Yvan / https://Brainy-Bits.com This code is in the public domain... You can: copy it, use it, modify it, share it or just plain ignore it! Thx! */ #include <avr/pgmspace.h> // Needed to store stuff in Flash using PROGMEM #include "FastLED.h" // Fastled library to control the LEDs // How many leds are connected? #define NUM_LEDS 256 // Define the Data Pin #define DATA_PIN 3 // Connected to the data pin of the first LED strip // Define the array of leds CRGB leds[NUM_LEDS]; // Create the array of retro arcade characters and store it in Flash memory const long DigDug01[] PROGMEM = { 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000 }; const long DigDug02[] PROGMEM = { 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000 }; void setup() { FastLED.addLeds<NEOPIXEL,DATA_PIN>(leds, NUM_LEDS); // Init of the Fastled library FastLED.setBrightness(15); } void loop() { // Put DigDug first frame for(int passtime = 0; passtime < 8; passtime++) { FastLED.clear(); for(int i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) { leds[i] = pgm_read_dword(&(DigDug01[i])); } FastLED.show(); delay(250); // Put DigDug second frame FastLED.clear(); for(int i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) { leds[i] = pgm_read_dword(&(DigDug02[i])); } FastLED.show(); delay(250); } }    
      Connect your Arduino to your PC, upload this code, plug it back into your frame and power it on and voila!
       
      Note I have not fixed and sealed the back yet so you'll see some odd shapes and light seeping through on the edges but when fixed properly it looks fantastic.
       
      Extras:
       
      One thing I have done is to source some WiFi integrated 2560's as I want to be able to program them over my WiFi Network instead of USB. I have not started this portion of the project yet.
       
      Audio is another optional accessory that I considered but I think whilst very doable may become annoying. You can do this and even add a volume control if you like.
       
      WIP Result. I've created around 100 sprites so far 🙂
       
       
      Cheers,
       
      Brad
    • By Brad
      I've had this machine sitting neglected in my garage for almost 2 years. Had the parts just not the inclination but over christmas the bug got hold of me and I started working on it.
       
      The cab is an old LAI Rampage cab:
       
      http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=9261
       
      There was no board, jamma harness, control panel, coin mech's or artwork included. What was included was the original 19" arcade monitor, power supply, fluro light and dodgy mame marquee.
       
      I started by creating a new control panel. The original was a 3 player setup but I've built this with 2 players in mind and a centre spinner. As my art skills are non-existant, in the short term I built the panel out of ply and stained and varnished it. Sure not original or normal but it came up okay with the result below:
       

       
      As you can see the player 2 joystick is a top fire as I wanted to be able to play Tron, Battlezone and Two Tigers easily. I'm sure there are other games with possibly doubling the top fire button as a push pull option for games like Discs Of Tron and Frontline.
       
      The Top Fire is a normal 8way stick with a modified shaft and top button. I have to say that the joystick itself is a little sloppy on movements and the shaft feels is too short due to the flange at the top. For normal games it's not so bad but I think I need to adjust it and put stronger springs in it.
       
      The left joystick is a baton type which I've never used before. I'm a huge fan of MCA's but I had no black ones left so used this out of a mame pack I'd bought ages ago. I'm actually quite surprised at how good it is and would definitely use them again if I had too.
       

       
      The panel has 6 player buttons each, Player 1 start, Player 2 start and Select & Escape buttons. The Select and Escape buttons are temporary until I grab some clear ones so I can print labels for them. Coin Inserts are supplied for P1 & P2 by using a custom made label and 12 volt LED rectangular buttons I had laying around.
       

       
      The spinner is a Turbotwist 2 that I got for christmas 2 years ago 😕 It is a fantastic piece of kit. USB interface, engineered to fit into a standard 28mm arcade button hole and has a range of options for knobs and wheels. I stuck with a reasonable std blue anodised knob with room for an insert. Many have mounted BYOAC tokens of which I have 100. I'd like to use an Aussie Arcade one 😉 I also added the energy storage cylinder which is effectively a steel piece that fits to the base and lets inertia keep spin going for a LONG time. It works REALLY well. You can check them out here:
       
      http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=268
       
      The spinner really comes into it's own for the games I've tried it on so far. Tempest and Arkanoid are simply awesome. Cameltry is now an extremely enjoyable game. Star Trek which I only ever play in Sydney's George st arcades in the 80's brings a tear to my eye 😉 Sure it's not in the original environmental cab but I can now play it properly. Other games I've played so far are Blasteroids, Cosmic Chasm, a few other racers and finally Tron. If the Top Fire joystick was restricted to 4 way (it does come with a restrictor) Tron would play much better. Spinner wise though it's perfect. What I need to do is wire in one of David's digital restrictors.....a project for another day.
       
      Bare Spinner
       

       
      Blue Anodised Knob
       

       
      6" Steering wheel
       

       
      The steering wheel is well made and works great but is limited without pedals. Works really well on 360deg driving games such as Pole Position, Sprint, Super Sprint etc but gear changes etc are an issue. What I've done is use the top fire as a gear stick and the top fire button as the accelerator until I get my Pole Position cab rebuilt. I mainly bought the wheel for unknown future uses and due to the fact that shipping separately at a later date was going to cost a bundle.
       
      Here's a shot of the bare bones PC components. Using a old GeForce 4 video card and Soft 15khz. Works great on this dodgy old arcade monitor.
       

       
      You can probably see the mini amp up the back. That's a $9.00 Ebay special and interfaces to an old set of car audio speakers.
       
      Currently trying out Maximus Arcade as the FE but having a few issues with it. It works but seems to have a few niggles with extra buttons and long delays on exiting games :unsure I'll see if I can tweak it some more and if not ditch it for good old Mamewah or Mala.
       

       
      Still to be done on this cab, tidy the wiring up, new artwork/marquee and I need to purchase decent bolts for the control panel and joysticks. The ones I have used are rat-shit.
       

       
      Oh and one last thing. Just a note to any boofheads like myself. If your using a laser mouse to setup your Mame Cab, stay away from using red cocktail stools as a platform. It took me about 3 hours to dawn on me why it didn't work.......the damn mouse laser is also red and obviously the red laser was being absorbed by the red stool. I didn't realise the spectrum was so wide :lol
       

       
      Cheers,
      Brad
    • By Brad
      I picked this cab up from a Tip Shop a few weeks ago now. I was hoping it was working but they would not let me test it. I took it home anyway to rescue it.



      The locks had no keys so I had to drill them out.


      Once I got it open I sadly discovered that the 19" tube had been broken at the back and was not salvageable.

      The upside was the discovery of a 1942 PCB. I have no way to test it but still a nice find.

      I'm not sure I'm keeping this cab as I simply do not have the room so I might re-sell it after I've reconditioned it as much as I can with spare parts.
      First was stripping it down. I took all the metal parts out such as the hinged monitor door, control panel, bolts, rear handles, hinge and any outward facing bolts.


      A quick wipe down and vacuum got rid of all the old dust, debris and cobwebs from a long storaged machine.
      I threw the old monitor, yoke and chassis away as effectively useless for me.


      Stripped monitor door and control panel.

      A light sand of all steel components with fine grit sandpaper and then 3 coats of satin black spraypaint to bring the components back to new. I also sprayed all of the bolts so that they blend into the black timber panelling.



      The monitor plexi was held onto the door with double-sided tape which I had to carefully separate so that I did no damage or scratches.

      Once separated I then had to remove the tape from both parts. The rainbow colour on the plexi has been sprayed on from the back so I had to ensure that I removed the residue without lifting the paint which was successful. I'll put it back together using new double-sided tape once it's all done.
      The control panel was fitted with a single player setup. A black MCA joystick, 2 player buttons, Player 1 Start, Player 2 Start buttons and a small single button to the right. I suspect that this had been rigged as a credit insert button as it looks to me it had been sitting in someones home for years and there was no coin mech installed anywhere.
      The MCA was rat shit, so I've replaced it with a spare (I have about 14 of them). Unfortunately I don't have any black ones so I'm using a single yellow I had that matches the yellow in the panel.
      All of the buttons I'll reuse as they are all fine including the micro-switches. The credit button however will need to be replaced as the top has snapped off. I'll need to try and source one as I've never seen one of these before and I don't want to drill a bigger hole.

      You can see the restored top unit below.

      I spent some time wiring up a new power supply, jamma harness and 60-1 board. I decided to use the 60-1 as this cab was a vertical cab and the bezel and monitor shroud were being re-used.
      I'm a real weenie when it comes to electricity so was concerned about wiring mains 240 power to the arcade power supply but 2 youtube video instructions later and I re-wired a std power plug into the arcade power supply within 5 mins. Hooked up the jamma harness to 5volt, 12volt and ground points on it and test-fired the arrangement. The power supply, board and monitor all turned on, the board initialised and after the 60 second startup (why so damn long?) I had the iCade menu displaying and running.



      I tidied up all the wiring and used cable ties to neaten it all up. It always surprised me how much room there is in an arcade cab. Really the monitor takes up most of the room.

      I've gone with an LCD as it's the easiest for me to mount although I do have several spare 19" crt PC monitors hanging around if I feel the need to change it to a CRT look.
      I ended up modifying the monitor frame to accommodate the LCD. I also created a new internal bezel to suit using 3 ply and sprayed it black to blend it.
      Once bolted together the monitor sits nice and flush to the front door.

      I'm creating an instruction card to suit the unpainted space left in the exterior bezel that will fit flush. Unfortunately my colour printer is almost dead so I need to wait till after eater to print it at work before I can remount the exterior bezel. I'll upate this thread once done.
      Thanks to @Homepin and @DavidAVD knowledge and part I've also mounted a volume control onto the rear of the cab. This is wired in between the jamma harness speaker output and the speaker inside the cab. I've re-used the single speaker that was already in the cab and mounted the control knob into a std button hole that a previous owner had drilled into the back. It's come up pretty nice and fits really well.

      The back of the cab also had a large square cut-out that gave access to the old monitor yoke but there was no cover. I bought a grill piece, sprayed it black and mounted it. It looks pretty good.

      Front View minus exterior Bezel

      Now with bezel minus instruction card until I can get it printed.

      Apart from that all I really need to do is do something about the damaged sides. Not sure if its worth it or there is a cheats way but the laminate has a chunk out on the right and some deep scratches on the left. It does give it character. I also replaced the barrel locks.


      Cheers,
      Brad
    • By Brad
      I've had this bartop carcass in my garage for about 4 years now. Acquired it from Woka. Like many of us, too many projects and not enough time and/or motivation. As is normal with me I get to a point where I want to complete a project that I've put off for some time so I pick one and work on it until done.
      The biggest kicker for this is that I bought an arcade pack off Ebay pretty cheaply knowing it would suit this. It included 60-1 pcb, power supply, jamma harness, 12 player buttons, 1&2 player button, 2 joysticks, 2 speakers, speaker grills and 50 PCB mounts.
      Bare carcass here which didn't come with a back or control panel.

      So using a 19" 4:3 LCD monitor as the template I measured up to see how I could fit everything in. The 19" just fits vertically so I measure up some timber rails to mount both the control panel and rest the monitor on, then glued and screwed.

      Measured up a control panel and dicked around with control and button layout. Test fitting here.


      Made a rear door and fitted with a barrel lock. Also cut out a hole for the IEC power socket.

      Now most people opt for a Galaga based bartop or some sort of custom job. Me, I'm more partial to Galaxian so I've elected to go that way. Woka also included enough T-Moulding to fit this that matches the original Galaxian cab colour. Overall colours will also match so I'm going gloss white and then I'm going to get original artwork sized and printed.
      that will include Marquee, Control Panel, Sideart & Kick Plate. Not sure I'll bother with a bezel as it would only be the width of the monitor bezel which is 10mm.
      Now I suck mightily at graphics but I've managed to use Adobe Illustrator to modify the original Galaxian control panel artwork to suit my bartop.
      Original

      I printed off a sample on plain paper to ensure it fit and to my great surprise it fit perfectly, down to the button holes.

      Everything else will remain original, just re-sized to fit.
      Work to do next is another coat of undercoat and then start the gloss white paint job.
      And photos can go **** themselves. Doesn't matter how I rotate, they persist in coming out sideways :realmad:
      Cheers,
      Brad
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