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Tron Arcade Resto

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Arcade King
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"Good work mate!"

spacies was awarded the badge 'Great Content' and 10 points.


I won this machine in auction in 2012 for $506. It belonged to a local movie director and he had it in his mancave which wasn't the ideal location for a cabinet made of particle board! 

The floor was damp and I believe they had a big party and destroyed a part of the roof which let even more moisture. See the pics for the description. 

It did run for a little bit when I bought it but eventually it went up in smoke and it's has been dragged around with me since. Every time I moved it I said to myself this will be the last time it will be moved without falling to bits, because it was, and it would leave a trail of particle board across the shed floors like a crusty snail. 

So 9 years later it is time to get it Tron Upright #17549 sorted...










Edited by spacies
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With a trusty 2 litres of glue I topped up the small bottle and hooking it to it.

As you see in the pics, the bottom of the side panels are shot. The base sat inside the sides with a dado but because of the damage I have pretty much lost any fixing point so my plan is to have two bases. One internal between the sides and other will be to the outside of the sides. This will give me back the 18mm that has been lost with damage and trimming flush. 

It'll make more sense in the pics as I go 🤙

For extra support, blocking strips are added internally and a bigger one behind the kickpanel. HEAPS of glue and a lot of clamps later the first base is attached...












Measured up and cut a new bottom rear panel on the CNC. This is also fixed with blocking strips and overhangs the first base by 18mm. The new base will sit flush with it 🤙




Edited by spacies
speeling ;)
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Second base and the rear panel fixed together. 

Having the second base flush with the sides gives me the option to seal up the flaky particle board and fill with the two types of resins. 

BTW, I did think about chopping the whole bottom section off about a foot high, but because the the thickness of the sides is and odd width (probably swollen) it was going to make things difficult. So I am happy to go this way. I am pretty confident with my skillset and the master plan 🤙





This corner was a bit too shit to try and fix/fill. So Chop chop! Note the little 2mm packer to get the correct width as mentioned above.







Edited by spacies
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Cheers jbtech. Getting through it!

Righto, time for those crossbrace repairs. I managed to cut one part off and reuse it, so I just had to make the section that holds the top rear door in place.



Got a few spare parts on the floor. Tron dust anyone??🤣








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10 minutes ago, thejudge said:

Getting there. Would love access to one of those cnc routers.

Yeah handy for sure. I have been setting up my workshop for a couple of years now because I want to do almost everything in house and work from home is the master plan. 


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It's nice to see you've decided to save as much of the original cabinet as possible even though it's probably more time consuming than making a complete reproduction.

Great work! Regards, John

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30 minutes ago, jbtech said:

It's nice to see you've decided to save as much of the original cabinet as possible even though it's probably more time consuming than making a complete reproduction.

Great work! Regards, John

Ha ha. You're right! I could've easily cut a new cabinet and I few years ago I would've busted this up, hung the side panels on the wall and made a new one. Now I am all about preservation. I think it'll scrub up ok 👍



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With those repairs done, I stood it up for a photo shoot :classic_laugh:











Time to seal this sucker up!


Two epoxies there. The left ones are timber sealer. The right one is a no-sag thick paste for the filling. Both 1:1 and dry hard, especially that Woodlok! The timber sealer is designed to penetrate the timber and lock it up and bond everything back together. It penetrates well because it is thin. I poured it on the cabinet and used to brush to bring it down it to the areas that needed it.








So you can see in that pic what I am dealing with and why I chose to do it this way with the extra base right out to the edges. It's a freaking mess! If I tried to fill and shape that with bog, it'll just break off with the slightest knock. You will also see why I added that extra wide blocking strip behind the kickpanel cos that'll stop the epoxies from disappearing! For this kick panel I am going to fibreglass fill it and there is a plastic strip that goes across this area on the front but I'll still make it mint.


It's well soaked but'll be hard in 24 hrs 🤙





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9 minutes ago, thegrunta666 said:

This is the cabinet that just keeps on giving...keep up the good work, as it looks like you have a fair bit more to do !

Ha ha. Keeps kicking me in the nuts!

I whacked a screwdriver down in the crack and poured in some slightly watered down glue until it wouldn't take any more. Then went up and down the tmolding slot (I'll need to recut it later anyway) doing the same thing and put those floating bits back in place. 

All the clamps on. Should be good!


Oh, and a snap of the serial number on the top panel.




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Bog it up son!



This is a fibreglass filler. It's really good stuff but blinkin' difficult to get out of the container and mix with the hardener. If you use this stuff have two filling blades ready cos you need to 'slice' it as you pull it out. Be very thorough when you mix it up because it just moves around in one big blob. Having said that once you lay it down it actually spreads quite nice and has excellent filling capabilities. So, a blast with the sander and it's time to Phil McCrackin :classic_laugh:



Note the little bits of fibreglass. WEAR A MASK WHEN SANDING. I used a sander with a vacuum and a mask. Doubly safe!




Below is the right hand side of the cabinet which was actually pretty good. It got a quick skim as well. 



It sands down real nice and will get a couple of layers.




Oh, pro tip of the day! It's easy to work on if the area is at eye level. So....









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Couple layers of the glass filler done. Now for this bad side.

I mixed up the epoxy, spooned it on the the side and levelled it with a large plastering knife. Although this stuff dries hard, it does have some flexibility. Kind of like a really stiff piece of plastic. 

It starts to harden after a couple of hours and it'll be ok to sand in 24 hrs. Maximum hardness is 7 days. SHould be sweet for some filler tomorrow.





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