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World Cup Soccer 94 Needing Some Help


JustAnotherRat
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I bought a WCS94 and it was mostly working fine but after a number of games I have started to find issues and being a repair rookie and hoping to get some guidance repairing the following issues.

  1. The Final Draw/TV scoop was working fine. I put some LED's into the game and noticed a short time after that it would detect a ball going into the scoop when it went near it, I thought that it may have been lights effecting the opto in there so adjusted the lights so they didn't shine so brightly towards it but now it doesn't register a ball going into the scoop. I have tried cleaning the opto's but it didn't help. This is now resolved and was a problem with the optos themselves.
  2. When I start a game, it puts a ball into the shooter lane followed by a second ball a second or two after. If I take one out and put in in the drain, it just shoots another one up. This has made the game completely unplayable unfortunately. I've tried cleaning the optos thinking it may have been the issue, I have tried replacing the balls with new ones as I had read that magnetised balls could be the issue but it didn't change anything and I have also added a 3D printed "WPC Speed Wedge with integrated tapered Trough-protector". This has been resolved by fixing a broken wire on the Free Kick switch
  3. When shooting a ball around the loop, it is supposed to be blocked what I'm going to call a gate as I don't know the proper name. It seems that it isn't strong enough and bends under and allows the ball through of almost every shot (should only open when Travel is lit). Does it need a tighter spring? Is that even an option? Is there something else I should be checking? The magnet only engages when travel is lit so that side of it is fine, it's when the gate is meant to be closed that is a problem.
  4. It has developed two errors causing a credit dot. "CHECK SWITCH 26 KICKBACK UPPER" and "CHECK SWITCH 28 LIGHT KICKBACK". Are these related? I don't know how to find what kickback the errors are referring to. What do I test? These are now fixed
  5. Is it worth buying Cliffys? I like the idea of them and there is a little wear around the kickout's and the scoop so I think they'll be good but I've read that they ruin the game play. I've ordered these. I've decided it's worth preserving the playfield. If I don't like them I'll consider removing them. They will take a while to get here as Cliffy said he is about 4 weeks behind.
  6. I'm thinking of adding mylar underneath where the ball drops from the ramps to the playfield. Is that a reasonable thing to do?
  7. The RH sling stopped working but I have found that there is a broken bracket which I can order from RTBB so that will be resolved.
  8. The soccer ball was spinning the wrong way. I have unsoldered the wires and connected them the right way.
  9. Am purchasing mirror blades from Railways.
  10. I plan on purchasing a LED kit from Babak at Pinball Haus, is that a good choice? (not the whole LED v incandescent argument, just whether there is a better seller). This has been ordered. Some has turned up and other parts are still on their way. I have only installed the ones for the backbox as trying to rectify the faults has been more important. I'm not fully happy with the colour choices and will probably make a few changes.

I'm not sure if I've covered everything, but I think that'll do for now. Thanks in advance for the help and suggestions. There's time, but I need to get this baby working well for Pinfest, I guess that means I probably should order flipper rebuild kits.

 

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A few tips:

2. Have you checked the shooter lane switch in the switch test mode? It sounds like it may not be detecting that a ball is in the shooter lane

4. Here's a diagram of the two locations from the manual. Test these in switch test mode:

image.png.a86f87d2bfe956f19de01eaef437b2dd.png

 

5. I bought a set of cliffys and like them protecting the goal and also the switch drop areas off the ramps, but I haven't installed them in the kickouts or final draw scoop as they can cause issues making those shots and mine aren't too worn.

6. I think mylar can help here, as above, I installed cliffy switch protectors

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1 hour ago, Zzap said:

A few tips:

2. Have you checked the shooter lane switch in the switch test mode? It sounds like it may not be detecting that a ball is in the shooter lane

4. Here's a diagram of the two locations from the manual. Test these in switch test mode:

image.png.a86f87d2bfe956f19de01eaef437b2dd.png

 

5. I bought a set of cliffys and like them protecting the goal and also the switch drop areas off the ramps, but I haven't installed them in the kickouts or final draw scoop as they can cause issues making those shots and mine aren't too worn.

6. I think mylar can help here, as above, I installed cliffy switch protectors

Thanks heaps for the response. I've been tinkering for a few hours and seemingly not getting anywhere.

2. I haven't tested the shooter lane switch in test mode, I didn't find it (I don't seem to be very good at finding the right tests so that is something I'll have to work on) but the ball sits on the switch and when launched there is a light that flashes indicating that the switch is released making me think that the switch is good but just to confirm I will go back and test it in test mode.

I have also reflowed the solder on the opto boards in the trough as that was listed as a fix in a thread I found on Pinside but it hasn't helped. I also swapped the optos on the boards from 6 to 5 as that was something someone else mentioned they'd done but to no benefit.

4. Switches 26 and 28 are no longer reporting a problem although I didn't actually do anything to fix them. I'll keep an eye on them and worry about them if the problem returns. I have grabbed a copy of the manual and will try to use it more wisely.

5. I think I'll have to grab the cliffys and accept that the ball may be harder to get into those areas as there is some wear and I don't want it getting worse.

6. I didn't know there were cliffys available for this. I might look into that too.

 

Thanks again.

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4. The machine reports "Check switch XX" when the switch hasn't been hit in a while. It can be that you just haven't hit that switch in a game in a while rather than a problem with the switch specifically.

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19 hours ago, Zzap said:

4. The machine reports "Check switch XX" when the switch hasn't been hit in a while. It can be that you just haven't hit that switch in a game in a while rather than a problem with the switch specifically.

Yep my Creech will do the same thing.  Nothing wrong with game, just me being at best an average player 😄

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25 minutes ago, Railways said:

Yep my Creech will do the same thing.  Nothing wrong with game, just me being at best an average player 😄

I think since I've been testing trying to find a couple of faults, I'm not hitting everything I normally would, and those switches aren't ones I tend to aim for anyway.

 

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On 16/08/2021 at 11:58 AM, JustAnotherRat said:

Testing has shown that opto for ball 5 is showing as open when it should be closed (or vice versa I can't recall). Have ordered some bits. Lets see how this all goes.

 

Have replaced the opto boards in the trough but the problem still remains. Start a game, it launches one ball followed by a second ball a short time after. I really thought that this was going to be fixed with the repair but nope. The shooter lane switch works as expected when tested but optos for ball 5 still claims that there is a ball there all the time.


I also replaced the optos on the TV/Final Draw scoop. When the game starts, the solenoid for it fires 8 times and when in game, if you shoot the scoop it has no idea that a ball is in there. I can see anything else that could be causing this fault either.

 

I'm really at a loss, I'd love some suggestions.

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As you are having issues with multiple optos, I’d look closer at your opto board and potentially your power supply affecting your opto board. Did you add any mods that could be drawing more than when you first got it? My Dr Who had very similar issues that were cleared with a new Homepin opto board. Lower than required voltages can have a similar effect.

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8 minutes ago, djc said:

As you are having issues with multiple optos, I’d look closer at your opto board and potentially your power supply affecting your opto board. Did you add any mods that could be drawing more than when you first got it? My Dr Who had very similar issues that were cleared with a new Homepin opto board. Lower than required voltages can have a similar effect.

The only thing I have done to mod it at this stage is install some LED's, 31 to be exact.

I have a new Homepin opto board on one side and a replacement whatever was available from PSPA on the other.

Checking the power supply sounds interesting, I would have thought I'd have other issues first but I'm not ruling anything out at this stage.

 

 

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He’s talking about , and I agree, the opto board under the playfield as there’s other Optos playing up. 

Id also question the state of the boards in the head. Have seen chips on boards that make optos go weird. 

Keep fiddling and learning. 

Edited by Dedrok
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1 hour ago, Dedrok said:

Have seen chips on boards that make optos go weird. 

Indeed. Battery corrosion damage did exactly that in my Indiana Jones, and the optos were the first things that acted up.

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42 minutes ago, AskJacob said:

Indeed. Battery corrosion damage did exactly that in my Indiana Jones, and the optos were the first things that acted up.

Interesting. More things to look at. The battery has been relocated off the board at least, but it give me more to look at.

 

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Keep an eye for discoloured IC legs, and WORSE, darkening of the traces under the green laquer. If certain traces look blackish compared to the others... Yuck that can end up being a real problem... I sincerely hope you don't find any of that sort of stuff...

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12 hours ago, Boots said:

Have you done a complete switch test?

Sounds like a switch is locked on, causing a ball to be launched.

Hmm... I don't think I have. If I chose it, I didn't know what I was doing. I'll have a real go.

After a long day at work I took last night off of tinkering, hopefully tonight I get back out there.

 

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So the problem with too many balls in the shooter lane seems to be fixed now and was a problem with the Free Kick switch.  I round one wire not connected properly, resoldered it and that particular problem is resolved.

 

On with trying to work out why the Final Draw scoop doesn't recognise when a ball goes in. I have tested the wiring and resoldered in case of a bad connection but that hasn't helped. 

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(I have posted this in the WCS owners thread on Pinside too)

Here's my next question which is related to the TV scoop problem. 

In regards to the emitter opto, what should the voltage reading be when the opto is active?

I have 12 volts at the opto controller board. I tested and had 12 volts at the other end of the wire.. so far so good. I connect the wire to the opto itself, 12 volts still there. I connect the black wire to the other side of the opto and the voltage drop to 1.5(ish) volts.

If I go into the switch test, disconnect the emitter and shine a torch through to the receiver, I can get the switch to read as close. If I look at the emitter with a camera I can see that it illuminates.

Is what I'm seeing normal and I'm barking up the wrong tree or is there a problem there?

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Well I'm not mad, I'm just disappointed.

I thought with having the first optp problem solved, I'd work through the other one and find a resolution and then I could move onto other things like trying to work out the gate issue and install more LED's.

So I've tested the old emitter when installed for the TV scoop and it has 12v even 13v at times but I don't think that's what it's meant to be as the emitters for the trough all show 1.5v which is what I get on the new emitter. I've tried replacing the emitter itself in the board and it doesn't help either. I took the emitter and receiver out and placed them near each other and slowly moved them around and thought I was getting a response at one stage but couldn't replicate it so I think it was more that I was getting interference from somewhere.

I'm at a loss at the moment with this one. Everything seems to be in place. Everything tests how I expect it to other than the emitter seemingly putting out enough light to make the receiver switch even though my trust torch can set it off. I'm not sure what to try next. I can't find anything that seems to point me in the right direction in the manual and I can't find any posts with the same problem. I'm a bit baffled, but I'm not beaten. 

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Put it in switch test so that when your switch is operated it beeps. 

The first set test. Edge I think. 

Get a piece of cardboard and block the opto. If it beeps it works. If not it doesn’t. 

Then you need to check the wire colour back to the 10 opto board under the playfield. Use a multimeter to check the wiring for continuity. 

Also check the wiring from the 10 opto board up into the head boards on switch drive. 

All that other stuff is overthinking it. 

The 10 opto board should also be checked. Pins can have cracked solder , cold solder joints, bad connector pins. 

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I'll come back and report more once I get somewhere. I spent last night not getting very far.

I tested the wiring from the opto board and it all tested ok. I haven't tested it to the head board on the switch drive yet.

I wanted to check that the actual opto worked so I swapped it with one elsewhere and the ones from the scoop worked elsewhere. I do appear to have caused an issue with the opto that I moved though which shits me but anyway....

No real progress at this point. I really want to play and enjoy this game so I'm motivated to keep going.

 

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