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NSW - Various arcade parts wanted - see wish list


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Hi all, I'm looking for a number of parts for various arcade projects:-

 

 

Feet assy for Taito cocktail in decent condition, not wobbly

 

IMG_0817.thumb.JPG.936cc7b5a5b11aa19ac36dc4440d5ffe.JPG

 

-Dimensions of the vertical leg tubes, which were originally chrome:

 

O.D. 34mm approx and width 685mm approx from centre to centre.

 

 

Replacement shafts for 2 1/4" Taito (not Atari) trackballs, 2 x pair

 

shaft.thumb.jpg.7bee0b30064449f56357b64def12fb9e.jpg

 

Green 20c inserts for Taito upright coin door, pair

 

taito5.jpg.9c4e6630065e139104b7c93e0fefaa74.jpg

 

Original style coin trays for Taito and Hankin upright cash boxes

 

hankin.jpg.8e765c92b7eb7d14214c01d6957b9f2c.jpg

 

2 Player control panel for Gottlieb Challenger (26" upright)

 

IMG_0823.thumb.JPG.977fde4aa58788191655f95a5cfc5ab4.JPG

 

Original style key (copy) to fit original tubular locks on a LogiTec Space Ivaders T.T.

 

IMG_1578.thumb.JPG.4c132e98dfefe71d7f8080c4aaaf18c7.JPG

 

Glass to suit a lowboy cab. 55cm W x 51 - 52 cm

 

IMG_1583.thumb.JPG.a29f39573fbc3a14f0974b7207403a1b.JPG

 

Plastic Bezel / Mask for 20" CRT 55cm W x 50cm x 5cm depth approx.

 

 

Taito Mini Vaders JAMMA test PCB

 

 

Will update list with some more photos, measurements soon

 

 

- If anyone has any of these to spare please send me a PM. Thanks, John.

Edited by jbtech
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Thanks Steve, I did say it was a 'wish list'!

 

Most of the bits I'm after I can either do without, repair existing or reproduce but somebody might have some of them stashed away and save me the trouble...

 

I will add some photos and dimensions, on the off chance.

 

Regards, John

 

 

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I asked for photos because I may have the Taito feet, the shafts for the trackball, ( need to see what they look like. I honestly can't remember) , the 20 cent inserts and I know I will find these parts, if i have them will be in a white Taito upright plastic cashbox coin tray.

 

Definately made from unobtainium......nearly.

 

When we had those cash box trays stolen after breakins, we used 4 liter ice cream containers until one was retrieved from the workshop as we used them as parts trays there as well. Not original no but an alternative solution.

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Posted (edited)

Will do, I have the Player 2 trackball out of the Taito Missile Command cocktail at the moment so will take a photo and sketch dimensions. also the width for the legs / feet assy.

 

Yes, currently using a 4litre ice cream style container (found a clear / opaque one) for the Taito upright and I've only ever seen a tiny photo of an original one, it was probably from a US Taito Cab though.

 

Regards, John

 

IMG_1575.thumb.JPG.3161168653d1b9d3d0f6c66d315371f3.JPG

Edited by jbtech
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I have machined up a set of rollers for my taito missile command I'm about to do another set soon as not 100% happy with my first go.

 

Going to have them draw up so I can get them do e on the CNC lathe next time.

 

Ill let you know how I go

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Posted (edited)

Thanks @Autosteve and @Slypinball

 

I´ve added pictures and dimensions for the Taito legs / feet assy and trackball shafts above. More to follow.

 

Those shafts were actually from the Player 1 trackball as I swapped the less worn ones into the main position for the moment.

 

I´d definitely be interested in 2 pairs, either n.o.s. or reproduced would be great! Not urgent either, can wait.

 

BTW, if your balls are a bit scratchy I have some spare spares! Regards, John

 

IMG_1589.thumb.JPG.606fed039af63ce47658486a8bb5bbef.JPG

Edited by jbtech
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No. don't have the trackball parts.

Do have the taito cash box tray.

Do have two NOS coin inserts, (20 cent), still with protective factory paper on them.

 

 

Original style key (copy) to fit original tubular locks on a LogiTec Space Ivaders T.T.

Plastic Bezel / Mask for 20" CRT...................

 

What sort of locks, I may have an alternative.

Mask to suit what?

 

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Thanks Steve, definitely keen on those items so far.

 

My Taito upright is pretty beaten up but I don't mind that too much, my main thing is retaining original parts where possible and even adding original items where available.

 

I do use the coin mechs as the machines seem more 'genuine' that way even though they're not used commercially. Their main purpose in life was actually to collect money, not just play games...

 

The Taito's prices had been changed to blueish 60c labels so the green 20c ones seem more appropriate as it has the Space Invaders Colour game installed...

 

 

 

The other items, further down the 'wish list' -

 

The Logi Tec table has no keys but the original locks are there, I'll take a picture or two in the morning.

 

The top isn't locked but the cash box is locked. It does have a credit button added so I don't need it urgently but I'd like to get that lock working.

 

I did buy a Tubular lock (pick) tool set but the cheap ones I bought don't quite fit in the narrow circular slot of the cashbox lock so no luck picking it as yet.

 

Previously I managed to buy a Taito 8000 key (Missile Command) and an 8100 key (red upright) so it occurred to me that the Logi Tec tables probably all used the same key originally.

 

So, if anyone on here has the same machine with original looking locks I'd take a punt on buying a copy of the key just to see if it worked.

 

Otherwise I might have to persist with picking it as I don't want to damage the cash box getting it open. Once I get it open I could replace the locks or maybe get a key cut to suit...

 

 

The CRT mask(s) are on the wish list for some other projects

 

The very first machine I bought had been 'upgraded' to an LCD and 60 in 1 and I'm planning on un-grading it back to a CRT and an 80s game PCB, possibly 'Exerion' which I'm working on at the moment. I don't have a mask for the CRT but looking for one which is fairly flat around the edges and just curves down to match up with the CRT face. I may have to make something or adapt something to fit.

 

The other is a little lowboy of unknown manufacture and the bezel was broken and mostly missing. The bezel was probably about the same size as the glass, 550mm x about 510 or 520mm... autorec.jpg.a94ebcb6baf34fcc7cc8bdb794ce5b57.jpg lowboy.jpg.24ff71e33053b4afdf7ee093347cf33f.jpg

 

Really just interested to see what I might be able to use or adapt for those future projects.

 

Regards, John

 

 

 

 

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The Logi Tec table has no keys but the original locks are there, I'll take a picture or two in the morning.

 

The top isn't locked but the cash box is locked. It does have a credit button added so I don't need it urgently but I'd like to get that lock working.

 

If there original Taito used on the lid, they will be flat Taito keys. See if the machine has a number pressed into the lock face IE 7900...key will be a Taito 7900. No number pressed in the face of the lock, it isn't an original Taito lock anyway. Better to change for a cheap after market lock set. Not sure how the 14" tables lock setup was but the 20" Taito tables use a mechanism that attaches to the back of the lock. If the 14s are the same, don't loose these parts or you will be buying more unobtainium from me. The mech has hooks that swing with the lock turning and go through a catch on the underside of the lid. You can change the locks but they must suit the latch mech.

 

I did buy a Tubular lock (pick) tool set but the cheap ones I bought don't quite fit in the narrow circular slot of the cashbox lock so no luck picking it as yet.

 

Cashbox locks were all random so just change it would be my advice.....BUT, again, don't loose the metal spacer that holds the lock face out from the cashbox door face on the Taito upright or the dedicated latch on the back of the lock or once again, you will be buying more unobtainium from me.

Previously I managed to buy a Taito 8000 key (Missile Command) and an 8100 key (red upright) so it occurred to me that the Logi Tec tables probably all used the same key originally.

 

Red cabinet is a 1981 Defender cabinet so it would have had 8100 locks on the front door, the rear door and a random (circular) with nothing punched in the lock face on the cashbox. Not sure on the table but unless they have numbers like 7500,7600, 7700............8400, it isn't original.

 

Otherwise I might have to persist with picking it as I don't want to damage the cash box getting it open. Once I get it open I could replace the locks or maybe get a key cut to suit...

3/16" drill straight in the dead center of the "circular" cashbox lock about 10mm deep. That is your pilot hole. Now 1/4" drill down the same hole to a depth of about 30mm and the lock should fail and allow you to open the cashbox. Replace with new lock and attach the new lock exactly as you pull the old one out. If the lock fitted is after market it will drill quite easy. Originals are brass and harder to drill but my nomey is that cashbox lock was changed many times over.

 

The CRT mask(s) are on the wish list for some other projects

 

The very first machine I bought had been 'upgraded' to an LCD and 60 in 1 and I'm planning on un-grading it back to a CRT and an 80s game PCB, possibly 'Exerion' which I'm working on at the moment. I don't have a mask for the CRT but looking for one which is fairly flat around the edges and just curves down to match up with the CRT face. I may have to make something or adapt something to fit.

 

The other is a little lowboy of unknown manufacture and the bezel was broken and mostly missing. The bezel was probably about the same size as the glass, 550mm x about 510 or 520mm...

 

Got a 20" screen shroud here but that really depends on the CRT you get in there and what height the CRT is mounted at as to exactly what shroud it needs. If the shroud is to deep, you can cut them down depth wise to suit however if the shroud is too shallow, you can't add more to it if you know what I mean. Shrouds were originally made to suit that style of cabinet although you could buy generics and you modded them to suit as I just described.

 

 

Really just interested to see what I might be able to use or adapt for those future projects.

 

Regards, John

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks again Steve, that's good advice and you might have answered a few questions I didn't think to ask.

 

Yes, the Missile Command has flat key 8000 locks on the lid as well as the cashbox but the cashbox one dosn't line up the striker correctly so it's probably a) not the original lock fitted and b)

missing a spacer between the lock and mounting face. The key is a copy made by a locksmith, presumably from an original.

 

IMG_1568.thumb.JPG.7ae3f5a1856e333f43a353a7fa6fbb36.JPG

 

It's also missing the top plate from the cashbox which guides the striker and makes it more tamper proof. I have a photo of one and could always make a replacement from flat sheet metal.

 

The Taito red upright does have an 8100 lock on the back door but the coin door lock was tubular with no key and the cashbox lock was gone so I've just fitted generic locks there. These ones are from Bunnings and come with a long striker arm so I've just bent them to adjust the depth. They're not high security which doesn't matter for the purpose, I just like them to be functional.

 

IMG_1569.thumb.JPG.3f5183713d69e70e2e513833581e7e89.JPG IMG_1572.thumb.JPG.f45d7038a73b11f3a6c21cc626559a02.JPG

 

The Logi Tec table has tubular locks for the lid as well as the cashbox and I was working on the assumption that all 3 locks would use the same key which was probably wrong.

 

IMG_1576.thumb.JPG.387b986e2f133357aa7bd1c7a50d05b8.JPG IMG_1578.thumb.JPG.a15790cf3dc473cebe9870e4425fc07c.JPG IMG_1580.thumb.JPG.0e245a7c3ee3bb7dc36b9650981575cd.JPG

 

I can remove the lid locks pretty easily and will probably give up trying to pick the cashbox lock and drill it out as per your suggestion. Thanks very much for the pointers there.

 

I've mounted the CRT in the lowboy cabinet and have a couple pictures. I'm not sure where the original bezel sat so I'll measure down from the guides where the glass will rest:

 

IMG_1583.thumb.JPG.83d340e8abb9e948a8598b6603de65b9.JPG

 

Laying a straight edge on the glass supports, it measures down about 50mm to the CRT corners and 25mm to the middle of the top or bottom edge.

 

The old bezel must have been this fibreglass material, I only have this broken bit.

 

IMG_1587.thumb.JPG.fe65bae9edfaeb9e2626672ca5fbf4ff.JPG

 

It fits along the long edge of the CRT and is only about 45mm deep. If it was square it was only about 450mm either way so I can't figure out what supported it unless it was just sandwiched between the glass and the tube...

 

And the upright with the LCD currently installed - I'll just mount the CRT back in its original position with no bezel then take some measurements to see what I need.

 

I do have another (Hankin) cabinet where a non original CRT was fitted and the bezel or shroud wasn't deep enough so there was a gap. I ended up making 4 x 30mm metal spacers to lift the tube up a bit and close the gap. Not ideal, but effective.

 

Regards, John

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Posted (edited)

Hi again, yes the Taito Missile Command does have the fancy lid locks you mentioned, thankfully these ones are complete and working. I was fortunately able to buy a 8000 key copy which worked and unlock the lid without resorting to picks or drill.

 

IMG_1593.thumb.JPG.59ab0575b56bd5fc563bc71bacc22ede.JPG

 

As per the photos above the Logi Tec lid locks are much more basic and mounted to the side panels.

 

I refitted the Taito cashbox, latched it and measured the gap which is just under 10mm so a spacer would need to be that deep otherwise I'll have to make up a bent locking tab or change the lock completely.

 

IMG_1592.thumb.JPG.2cf35062af8175c82e3429ec5e53218d.JPG

 

Again, I originally assumed it was correct that all 3 locks used the same key. Let me know if you have a suitable spacer or top plate for that cashbox. Thanks, John

Edited by jbtech
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Hi again, yes the Taito Missile Command does have the fancy lid locks you mentioned, thankfully these ones are complete and working. I was fortunately able to buy a 8000 key copy which worked and unlock the lid without resorting to picks or drill.

 

[ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tIMG_1593.JPG Views:\t0 Size:\t317.9 KB ID:\t2221358","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"2221358","data-size":"medium"}[/ATTACH]

 

Yep, they are the fancy lid locks used on Taitos. There were two types of those mechanisms. One suits only the large Taito locks, ( the ones with the **00 number on the face) or the other style that took any generic circular lock.

That picture shows a Taito large lock only type so you can only use Taito locks in it without welding up the hole the lock bolts to. Done that job 100s of time myself to convert them or just continue using Taito locks and leave it alone.

 

 

I refitted the Taito cashbox, latched it and measured the gap which is just under 10mm so a spacer would need to be that deep otherwise I'll have to make up a bent locking tab or change the lock completely.

 

[ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tIMG_1592.JPG Views:\t0 Size:\t277.6 KB ID:\t2221359","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"2221359","data-size":"medium"}[/ATTACH]

 

Again, I originally assumed it was correct that all 3 locks used the same key. Let me know if you have a suitable spacer or top plate for that cashbox. Thanks, John

 

This is how the Taito cashboxes are supposed to setup...

http://vjMjt0j.jpg

 

These dress rings go around any generic circular lock, (Taito large locks have a too larger head to fit)

http://HMc5gh5.jpg

 

And these are the locking plates to suit Taito cashboxes. They suit any generic circular lock. Note how thick they are and the slot in the locking face. That slot locks in the cashbox frame and the cash door cannot be forced when these locking plates are used like original.

http://qUtYhf8.jpg

 

Look inside your machines for these parts first. You may still have them sitting inside.

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I've never seen those parts, surviving ones like those must be very rare indeed!

 

I'll have a look in the 'bowels' of my machines but doubt I'd find anything like that lying around, I did hunt for any loose objects or coins before powering them up first time.

 

It's incredible the lengths manufacturers had to go to make their machines secure, complete overkill for my purpose but it shows how much a cashbox full of 20s was worth, especially in 1980s context.

 

Regards, John

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