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Victory Road (Ikari 2) weird sound issue


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Gday Guys, bought a Victory road pcb that was tested for video only before i purchased and have added it in a generic LAI cab (not sure what the variety are called) The board boots fine and the graphics seem to be all good, plus the rotary joystick connection and gameplay seems to be all peachy BUT the sound is super quiet. At first i thought there was no sound at all and i did the obvious turning up of the sound pot on the pcb (to max) and also adjusting in the cab (to max) and seemed to be zero sounds. On sticking my head close to the speakers i could faintly hear the game sounds (yeah getting old and crusty don't help ;) ) Now, when i adjust the pcb volume pot back to minimum you can hear the sound go back to off, same deal with the volume pot in the cab so both those adjustments seem to be working ok. I have 2 other rotary joystick games (Time Soldiers and Ikari Warriors) and when either are hooked up to the same cab there's no sound weirdness like with Victory Road and in fact having the sound to max on both pcb and cab is TOO loud as you would expect. What could be causing the discrepancy between the VR board and the other 2?? Seems a bit odd when it appears that the volume pot on the pcb definitely seems to adjust fine but it's super quiet at the speakers. Could this be an amp issue on the pcb? or something in the wiring specific to this game that i'm missing??

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Does your machine have the -5 volts connected? a quick squiz in the manual suggests it may be needed.

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manual...ory%20Road.pdf

 

Yep and reading a bit over -5V at the pcb pin edge. Only other thing i have noticed is that 1 of the 2 red leds on the pcb isn't lit but i'm not real keen to push the voltage higher than it already is. Other main readings are 5.12V and 12.87V. Possibly the led itself is bad but i can't be sure. According to the manual if 1 led isn't lit it may require the power being turned up at the power supply but i would have thought the readings i mention are on the higher side anyway.

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it may use regulators on the pcb? maybe one is bad. :unsure

 

Would that have anything to do with this reference in the manual? >> "Turn on 2 LED lights, when the voltage is correct. If only one LED light turns on, adjust by 5VADJVR of switching regulator" Is it something that can be adjusted on the board? can't say i've seen a reference to a VADJVR before.

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I'm only guessing here I don't know the board. Usually LED's on the board are a indication that power is present. We know the 5 volts is ok because the game is running so that's not the issue, its either a problem with the +12 or -5. Perhaps the pcb has a 12 volt regulator on it that's failed?

Maybe some close up pics of the PCB may help?

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Thanks for the help so far AK!! I took some pics of the top board and the bottom board but of course there is a middle one as well, although i suspect most of the areas in interest will be on the top board. I don't know enough about pcb's to do repairs myself anyway although i have replaced some transistors, etc on pinball driver boards before so it will most likely need to be sent off for a suss out. I was kinda hoping it may be something simple that i have overlooked.

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Look at all the fugitsu chips, amazing it's still running!. I don't see any voltage regulators on the board mate so stumped at this point. :unsure Perhaps bump the voltage up a bit as the manual suggests and see if the second LED lights.
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Look at all the fugitsu chips, amazing it's still running!. I don't see any voltage regulators on the board mate so stumped at this point. :unsure Perhaps bump the voltage up a bit as the manual suggests and see if the second LED lights.

 

Cheers AK, i'll tentatively give it a slight bit more and see what happens.Thanks!!

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The electrolytic caps in the amp section look like they have taken an absolute beating, I'd start there if the sound is very faint.

 

Check for any that have been wrenched to one side tearing out one of the legs, can't really tell from the photos but there are a couple that could have been badly beaten up.

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The electrolytic caps in the amp section look like they have taken an absolute beating, I'd start there if the sound is very faint.

 

Check for any that have been wrenched to one side tearing out one of the legs, can't really tell from the photos but there are a couple that could have been badly beaten up.

 

Cheers Womble, yeah i did notice the tops of those caps were scratched pretty bad, on closer inspection i suspect one of the leaning one's (the big one closest to the jamma pins) has a busted leg right up close to the body of the cap. It's not visibly snapped but appears to want to pull clear of the body so that's a prime candidate for sure. Looks like i'll need to send this off for a little TLC. I did try boosting the power to see if the 2nd LED would light but wasn't keen to push it too far. Got to showing -5.43V, 5.35V and 13.00V on the pcb pins and still not lighting the 2nd LED. Not sure if that's related to that particular cap and the sound issue but it will need looking at anyway.

Thanks for the replies guys, will get it looked at and see what happens. Cheers!!

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Bit of an update with this board. I sent it off to Joey and the caps all got replaced in the amp section, sound is back to normal :) Problemo solved!!!

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