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LAST FLIGHT OF RED BARON


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Coming along nicely.

Red Baron was one of my favourite games when young. I only ever saw one in the flesh at Pier One in Sydney. Any time I went to Sydney I'd ensure to go to the arcade there and have several games.

I've played it loads of times on one of my mame cabs that I put a flight stick in

Brad

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Thanks...If you saw a cockpit back in the day, consider yourself lucky, there were only 500 made, This one is actually going to be in a Modified Star Wars cab, but curiously the same guy designed both cabs (forget his name off hand) but that makes a good choice for this cab as more of a 3rd generation prototype...A machine that probably even would have been built back in the day if the technology would have allowed.

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Posted (edited)

It should be noted, that building a machine like this is not a typical "how to" build thread as you probably already noticed, This was how how I was taught back in the day before the internet was even invented, and be warned if you guys try this, it is not the "cheap" way out, it takes time, tooling and  multiple skill sets to do it proper...Cnc is the more practical modern day approach, but still lacks a  certain hand made goodness (IMO)...Just saying.

Edited by CandyLand
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With your comment on the UV lighting - UV is divided into UVA, UVB and UVC. UVC is the nasty one which causes skin burns and cataracts and is used in germicidal lamps. All "party" lighting is either near-UV or UVA, which does not harm us.

 

There is a LOT of shonky UV stuff around due to the germicidal properties and COVID opportunism - a lot of NOT UVC stuff out there on massive mark ups. Won't do a thing to virus or bacteria, but will really make those 70's posters pop 🙂

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I was worried about that, Thank you for actually reading this thread...I am not really sure what I said about it off hand, but the wave length seems to me would be better or worse depending on the specific point of light and the phosphor to be illuminated, and luckily according to what you said brings it more into the party lighting arena and not the dangerous uv radiation end of the spectrum...It is really curious it is not even mentioned anywhere I can find, with the possible exceptions of screen printing, and film processing however Low wattage party lights are relatively cheap and hoping it will light that paint as I spray it.

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For a bit of cheapish testing you can grab some LEDs off ebay or similar - basically most are generic "purple" near uv lights at around 395nm (purple to the eye, and close to the old skool "black glow" fluoro tubes with their fluorescence effect) but you can get 365nm reasonably easily as well (dull white-ish blue to the eye) as well. Any smaller wavelength and you are getting into very esoteric LEDs that need silica glass encapsulation not the standard resin - and cost a lot.

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I supose I should "re" explain that light thing for those just joining us...The art graphics of the Red Baron are going to done in Lumilor, a electric paint... The concept is exciting on the surface think about that for a minute, electric paint...Well it is basically a sprayed on multi layer capacitor and the color layer is sprayed under uv light to check for coverage during the process...That where the spectrum questions came in, not much information on the subject, But like Ask/J says that light gets kinda dangerous and expensive, where the lower end party lights are cheaper and safer...So that will be the baseline on this project, "cheap" quality.

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Posted (edited)

The second blank is glued together, It would seem this should be easy and fast but ya, not so much it is a lot of work...They were cut into sections like that because initially there were 4 plates screwed together and it is easier to work the small heavy blocks rather than a big sheet, because the goal here was to keep the edges square, and the cuts were carefully plotted as to not intersect with any curves....Anyway,  now we can match these together and use them to fine tune each other with the router, and cut the other hole for the wing strut...It will start to go faster at some point, we just ain't there yet.

Screenshot_20210830-094830_Gallery.jpg

Edited by CandyLand
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Posted (edited)

It should also be noted...The bottom of the strut hole is the same on both panels,  and is already plotted, but since there is no coin door on this side the hole will be extended all the way up to the canopy, making this quite fragile as a template since it will basically be cut in half again only held together by the lower bottom right corner and will be screwed to a backing plate before use...On the finished panels these will be 3/16" steel backing plates to restore panel integrity.

Edited by CandyLand
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Posted (edited)

That's where the press comes into play, Punching the square holes into the steel backer plates for carriage bolts (will look like rivets when done)...There is actually a formula for that however The fasteners should be 1- 1/2 times the thickness of the pieces being joined...Well... We are dealing with wood and steel here 3/4" and 3/16" respectively so rather than use one and a half Inch bolts, I am going with a series of 3/8" bolts and that equates to alot of square holes the punch...Hence the press and broach.

Edited by CandyLand
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  • 2 weeks later...

Building machines to build machines is a part of the hobby few people ever talk about but it is a big deal since it not only determines the level of quality of your next machine but also speaks volumes about ones dedication to building arcade machines as a lifestyle choice, This build as stated earlier is the press...I have finally got to the bottom of the physics and this thing will not disappoint,  The whole top end is to be upgraded with bigger steel,  2" stainless ram (replacing the originally 1.30 steel ram, which was slightly crooked anyway), the air/hydraulic jack, a winch system to raise/lower table,  a foot pedal, caster plates for wheels (to move around shop) and from Swag off road, new press plates and a turn knob for the bottle jack...the whole thing is for just one specific purpose, Punching square holes. All the parts are finally ordered, (foot pedal on backorder) and we will nail this thing soon...As for the Red Baron, I have found enough  parts down in storage to NOT have to cut up that Parts machine shown at the beginning of this thread for this build (including a complete board set and some NOS flightstick parts) We will be a little more about fabricating by design going forward.

Edited by CandyLand
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Chopping up machines used to be a Mame taboo, and it was all restore, restore, restore...Here 40+ years later, I have to be of the opinion sometimes it has to be done, The parts are obsolete and few people would even know what it is they were looking at anyway, except for a few hardcore collectors who probibally need the parts anyway and 1 machine could save many in that respect...But yes, that one won't be damaged on this project, That I can promise.

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As a curious side note however...I have cut up more than my share in my lifetime, mostly as conversions back in the day since it was all about the money and some games really sucked and diddnt pay very well, or dealing with vandalism out in the wild, these things were not coddled by blowhard know it all internet collectors in basements back in the golden age (just saying) It was more about fast money than saving games or restorations...This project will however incorporate a monitor bezel from a Hydro Thunder, a 27" non the less, and will have to be cut up and refit to a 25" tube, as a plug for the mold, but is probably the only parts victim planned on this whole machine.

Edited by CandyLand
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After  some research, Seems I could almost build a real plane for the money...The tri Folker was a wooden construction (Spruce) with a 24' wingspan (top wing), then 23', And 22' respectively, With a 80hp LA Rhone engine, (made in France)...They actually make kits for the build taking anywhere from 1 to 8 years to build (so they say)...For the same money as this build, aparently Jennifer could literally "kiss" the sky.

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Jenn "could" I spose anyway and fun to think what is possible but that is not what this is about...The Main focus at this point is the 9 panels for the Lumilor paint, and even that has frightening little support on a arcade machine or even build groups as I have been banned from some as "Crazy" or "Insane" even a "Racist" (still don't even understand that one),  I have to basically been left do this on my own dime as far as research and testing goes...It is grey (the color of primer) when off, and since this is actually to be the sideart, that is unacceptable and that is the reason it needs to be topcoated with that candy,  Well candy is translucent so the grey becomes the base not just spraying color but reflecting color over light...Anyway I am still on this boys, just going slow and this is not a cheap hobby just saying.

Edited by CandyLand
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