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LAST FLIGHT OF RED BARON


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Victorian style reverse glass gilding is a lost art, and beyond the scope of this thread, But it is part of this project so as a brief overview...I haven't even opened my kit in like 25 years, taught by a old guy that was abusive as hell, just expected everyone who worked there to know everything, but would take lables off cans and mark them with a type of shorthand so the competitors wouldn't know the secrets, A hard way to live as you had to know the smell of the products you were working with...Anyway, glue chipping is a method of breaking glue off a piece of glass leaving a golden glue residue, and since this is a arcade machine, I am seriously considering plexiglass as a more traditional marquee bezel....Well this may create a problem, as chipping glue off plexiglass may or may not even be possible, this will have to be tested, and if all else fails will be done as a simulated chip with varnish...Just an update on fitting parts.

Edited by CandyLand
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The 6 usb programmable fiber optic  lazers showed up, we will do a full review on these when I get some time, with 3 different programmable flash modes these will be used on top of the Lumilor for the leading edges of the wings not only to separate the plane from the sun, but to also give the illusion of it flying away from the viewer, into the sun as sideart created of light on a flat panel.

Edited by CandyLand
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This is what Jenn is talking about if you guys want to look into them...Yes this could have been cheaper by weaving 1 line through all 6 wings, (3 on each side) but I would not have got the individual flash patterns, Anyway they are made of glass not plastic for optical clarity, so encapsulating them into a solvent based panel they will be less prone to crazing and premature failure...Obviously 6 doesn't hit that 1.7k mark, but the usb hubs are actually commercial grade airplane stuff, and ya, the pain is real.

 

Edited by CandyLand
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  • 2 weeks later...

You've got lost of interesting and innovative things going on with this project Jenn, keep posting progress because I'm always up for learning new stuff.

There's not a lot of cabinet building going on in this forum, I may be mistaken but it seems to be primarily pins these days. When I was in the US at ZapCon I stood in front of rows and rows of boxed, brand new Stern Pinball machines. I helped un-box a few of these machines and set them up. My reward was to be able to play them before the convention opened to the public.

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It is probably quite apparent I don't belong here as a builder, and don't have many friends (still talking to myself for the most part)...But...There are some really interesting people around here, and secretly I have been trying to learn the metric base 10 system of measure to try uping my game some, and got to say it is quite difficult as compared to Imperial and find myself confused sometimes, (I did finally got a metric rule, but it is not helping, and is like learning a new language), And it is nice to not be perpetually trolled and actually treated as a person...That Zapcon sounded fun, I totally tried to get there that year, and really regret missing it.

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Imperial trying to learn metric, can sort of relate to that. Change here happened in my last years of school and of coarse, test questions involved both.

I still use both for different purposes. Metric in general is easier as it is based on 10, 100,1000 etc where as imperial is things like 12" to a foot, 36" to a yard etc. A dog's breakfast in that regard especially when the imperial system here used both US and UK imperial.

Straight conversions from one to the other isn't a real way to learn or you end up with stupid sizes in metric. Plywood is a good example. You buy in the states an 8 X 4 foot piece of plywood. Ours is exactly the same size but 2440mm X 1220mm. US owns the plywood industry so all sizes are actually imperial but we convert the size to metric. Same goes for the plastics industry where all sheet size is imperial butn sold as a metric size.

Engineering is the same to a degree. One of our last industries along with plumbing to convert. Plumbing here was UK imperial based though that is slightly different to US imperial. Engineering was US based.

The last residue of these are still around today even though we are metric based. US bolts are still widely used in industry here because the US makes billions of bolts far cheaper than metric but the hardness system used is far easier to understand than the metric hardness system whch is still a dogs breakfast.

As most engineers here are still familiar with imperial, they design using imperial bolts and specify the imperial hardness system as the strength.

If I were you I would track down a imperial/ metric tape measure. Fairly common out here and you'll quickly learn metric. Just don't make the mistake always trying to make a straight conversion as there very rarely is but probably more important is measure using MM, (millimeters) and not CM, (centimeters).

One of the better metric traits is simplification in it's written form. A MM is roughly the same as 1/16". A 1/16" is a fairly precise measurement as is a MM but in imperial you would say a size like 15 1/16" where as metric it would be said as 383mm.

That's what happens when you don't use CM as was originally intended for the metric system and why engineers still don't to this day. You end up with sizes like 38cm/3mm or 38.3cm which is no better than 15 1/16" is it. Keep it in MM and it's just 383mm.

Even if you measure over a meter, (1000mm), and the size is say 1383mm if you leave the size as mm, 1383mm is easier to remember and write down on blueprints than 1 meter/ 383mm.

1383mm by the way is 54 29/64". See what I mean by simplification.

Irony in all this is using Google to do these conversions and Google itself doesn't use fractions of an inch. It uses 100th of an inch of which there is no such a hand held tool that offers such a size.

 

P.S.... Love your posts as I learn something and that is what forums are all about aren't they?. I hope I can help others learn but unless you hear it, sometimes you think you are talking to yourself.

Edited by Autosteve
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"Dogs breakfast" Thats funny...My biggest issue with that is I design in my head not on paper so the conversions are difficult at best if not impossible...Nicola Teslsa aparently also did the same thing, calculating the cubic volume of his food before he would eat it as a conscious stream of thought...Think about that a minute, a glass half full, a pile of potatoes a slab of fish perhaps a apple,  all not definitely square easy calculations to do in your head, Now add to that conversions...Aparently not many people do this however or even try, and for good reason, as a collaboration it becomes a problem in the conveyance of ideas...I would consider it a sign of someone who works alone for the most part, Anyway, I am trying, And can even see the simple elegance of a base 10 system, but I am seriously struggling with the conversions and for the foreseeable future will have to just use Imperial...Stick around, once I get caught up, we will lock the shop doors and get back on this, actually looking forward to it.

Edited by CandyLand
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It should be mentioned Jennifer is NOT some all knowing guru of American exceptionialism however...There are really only a handful of secrets to building these machines, and one of those are do not be afraid of the unknown, or your abilities...Ever.

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US aviation uses Imperial & EU aviation uses Metric. So what happened to a A320 having some repair work done in America.... They over sized some Metric bolt holes in the Wing box to fit some Imperial aviation spec bolts. This action put the plane out of Specification limits causing the aircraft being flown back to France empty. On further examination on what America did caused the plane to be scraped due to the expense of undoing the Imperial repair job.

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That sounds like a specific case of shoddy workmanship since we do have access to aviation grade hardware, NAS, and military has also been around as a standard since WW2 (1941), in fact (dont quote me) there are actually like 150 different bolts that are even standardized globally for aeronautics hardware, Personally I use military standards (and the Radiation Laboratory series) as a baseline in regards to materials, hardware, wire, and CRT Physics (on arcade construction anyway)...it is not one is better, or I just refuse to use it, Just difficult and time consuming to design with conversions.

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@Autosteve...That actually made alot of sense, especially the "Dont make the mistake of strait conversations", I technically wouldn't need to use it at all, but feel a good builder should be well versed in both systems, or at least familiar with it...Once a month or so I like to buy a new tool (quality tooling) as I consider that a investment in one's future, and this month happen to coincide with your post...I ordered new rulers (Starett) in metric, and going forward will probibally do the rest of what it takes to design.😉

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For the rest of you guys. Jenn aint saying you got to run out and buy new tools, or go all high end on components, as you can build nice machines tracing coins and using MDF...However quality tooling is an investment in how much you believe in your skills,, and they last a lifetime.

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@Ond...There are few people building anywhere that I can find it is not just here at AA...Curiously you mention pins, Dumping the "Jennifer's hot pin" Thread is one of my many regrets, However I did buy that machine back last summer (the couple that bought it got divorced) and have been secretly been working on it again late in the nights, It did suffer some minor damage on the move, but nothing that can't be fixed...Damn thing is a money pit.

Edited by CandyLand
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Nmercury...That is an interesting story, That Beltron is actually kind of hard to find, but if you can find one really,  highly recommended, It blows tubes with amps not volts like your typical rejuvenators and as result it is a beast not to be reckond with, It can save tubes normally left for dead.

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Dog's breakfast is a term used to discribe a unorganised mess.. Just thought it may not be a US term.

About bolts, there is one thing that is rather important. It regards the pitch of the thread. The pitch varies amongst the different thread types and has a big impact on how things are held together and remain held together.

UNC (US) or Withworth (UK) are both course threads with a high angle of pitch. They are ideal for production line assembly requiring less turns to tighten but the trade off is they easierly undo themselves through vibration having such a high angle of pitch. It is most important to use locking devices like lock washers, spring washers, star washers, nylock nuts or chemical thread locks to prevent these threads undoing themselves.

UNF (US) and most Metric threads have a much flatter pitch. This was done with purpose so nuts were not as inclined to loosen...Hindsight as both these threads were designed after UNC and Withworth.

I try to build using these later thread types where practical for exactly this reason.

About stainless......every grade of stainless has compromises between strength and it's abitity not to rust.

The more steel content in the stainless grade, the stronger the bolt can ever be but the more ability to rust.

The lower the steel content in the stainless grade, the weaker the bolt can ever be but the less the ability to rust.

That's the trade off using stainless.

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