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Sega Aero City Restore


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Well I started tearing into the gutted Aero City cab today. Bought it totally empty, not a single original part inside.

 

First job, use a heatgun to strip off the god awful decals.

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Second job, use paint stripper and a scraper to take off the glue residue and loosen up the paint.

 

IMG_20210515_111508.thumb.jpg.cbca6e4582ffa65473126bced2a79496.jpg

 

The paint job was a terrible rattle can job with runs everywhere. Whoever did it clearly did not give a shit what it looked like.

 

Third job, use an orbital sander to bring it back to bare metal.

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​​​​​​I spent around 5 hours working on it today and I have most of the cab back to metal.

 

Next job is to finish the rest of the sanding, then give it a light finishing sand, then a coat of primer.

 

Gotta love all metal cabs. So much easier to work with than plastic or fibreglass candy cabs.

 

 

 

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Nice work would of taken me a month to get that done beer n all , off to the powder coating place for me these days $$$ but time is money/beer time :D , will be watching this one
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The paint stripper was washed off with warm, soapy water before sanding commenced. After I finish the heavy sanding, I will light sand and then wash off the dust and any residue with soapy water again.

 

 

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Sounds as if you have done that before...Aircraft stipper used to be all the rage here, but now is a waste of money IMO, and I only use the Citra strip which is kinda nice since it comes in 3 different grades depending on what you are using it on, Water on bare steel is not really a good thing obviously (rust) so I find a compressor dries it off fast (protect your eyes), and a prepaint wipe with white vinegar cleans the steel of any surface rust...Secretly I then use alcohol too but I am a bit compulsive/obsessive when it comes to painting...Can't wait to see that machine in all her glory, so very exciting.:cool:
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i love reading this type of post, the value of information on this forum is amazing. Ill be doing my own cab sometime this year so i cant wait for the next post.
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What can I say I'm already envious Pat, already got a massive chunk of work done, wholeheartedly agree with the metal comment, getting anything back like this to bare and starting again your going to get that factory finish mate. Keep going! (within your time constraints of course).

 

-Tom

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Went and did some more sanding this morning. Entire cab and most parts are now back to bare metal. If all goes well, I will get the first coat of primer on next weekend.

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Went and did some more sanding this morning. Entire cab and most parts are now back to bare metal. If all goes well, I will get the first coat of primer on next weekend.

 

Great progress. I didn’t know these were all steel.

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Yep, totally steel. Makes all my other candy cabs look flimsy :)

 

Unless I’m mistaken they went plastic after the Aero until the Lindbergh Universal? I’d still be tempted to get it powder coated if that’s a possibility. Maybe they’d screw it up? :unsure

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Went and did some more sanding this morning. Entire cab and most parts are now back to bare metal. If all goes well, I will get the first coat of primer on next weekend.

 

Looking the goods mate ��. Don't forget Houseball next weekend !!

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  • 4 months later...

Well, after a massive hiatus I got back into it today. Sanded down the enamel primer to smooth it all out and then dad sprayed on the first two coats of gloss white with his spray gun. It's not a professional job, but it's a damn sight better than some of the rattle can jobs I have seen on candy cabs.

Didn't bother properly matching the colour to the auto paint colour, mainly as the auto paint was insanely expensive. I just went with a gloss white enamel. Came up looking great. 

Now that the cab is painted, when it dries, I will move it back to my garage and start working on the internals.

Oh, and ignore the painted over lock on the door. I don't have keys and I couldn't be assed drilling it today. So we just sprayed over the top. It will be drilled and replaced with another lock down the track.

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Edited by namastepat
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Just grabbed a full set of decals from Gateninety. I am officially getting excited about this project.

https://gateninety.com/product/sega-aero-city-full-set-sticker/

Because it is totally stripped internally, sourcing original parts would be cost prohibitive for what was a bargain $50 find to start with. I have a 26 inch Nanao MS-8 that can go in there, so that's the most important original part covered. However, when I start populating the internals, I don't think I will drop the cash on original parts. They can be sourced from Japan, but only on Yahoo, so I'd need to take a risk with purchasing, then using a buying agent to ship them, which would likely end up costing me an arm and a leg.

Instead, I have a plan. I have a Gottlieb Challenger IV driving cabinet that is going to be converted to L2M2 and an LCD screen. I will be stripping the 26 inch Nanao from that cab, to drop into the Aero. The cab also has a very nice power distro box with a mounted PSU, test buttons, power buttons etc. I am planning to strip that from the driving cab, as I will no longer need it in there to run an L2M2 setup and use it in the Aero City. While it won't be original, it will still be a quality built setup that will do what is required. The one in the image is not mine, but it's what they look like, the cream box on the left.

The other option would be to buy an Astro City PSU and loom. These are very easy to get on ebay and I could put in an Astro PSU running on a 110V transformer (which I will need for the monitor anyway) and then directly plug in an Astro loom to hook up the controls. 

Anyone have any thoughts on the best option? 

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Edited by namastepat
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Hi, yes I'd go with the Challenger distribution unit too if it fits neatly in the bottom of the cab - as it has pretty well everything you need.

It's already set up for 240V, has the mains fuse and switch as well as the stepdown / isolation transformer for the monitor.

It's not like you're discarding original parts either, as the Sega cab was already gutted and the cost of refitting it with all original parts would be excessive.

If your Gottlieb cab is a driver I guess you'd need to adapt some wiring for the control panel but that shouldn't be too difficult...

If you do go with a 110V Astro City power setup, the monitor supply should still be isolated from the rest of the 110V wiring so you would either need two separate transformers (or 1 with two isolated secondaries) or a single 110V stepdown transformer overall and then an isolating transformer between the 110V and the monitor. Either way, the existing unit seems a better option to me.

Looking good so far, will be great when it's all together. Regards, John

 

 

 

 

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All good advice, I reckon I will ditch the idea of the Astro PSU and use the Gottlieb one. It will require a little rewiring, but it does have a JAMMA harness already, as the driving cab was JAMMA originally, with a secondary harness for the steering controls. @Ryan555 will help me with all the cab wiring, as I can barely tell one end of a a soldering iron from the other 😄

Edited by namastepat
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Hey guys, any thoughts on this?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165086388258?hash=item266fea6022:g:uD8AAOSwa4VhSwTI

I am keen to buy it, as I need a new CP. While the description says it's a brand new repro, the photos show some plastic film lifting on the left hand side. Do you reckon it's just a clear, protective layer that you peel off? I have asked the seller and am hoping to hear back, but communication from Chinese arcade sellers is not always the best.

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