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SF2 champion edition problems


brentos82
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Hi guys. I'm after a little help with SF2 champion edition . I'm getting these square glitchy bars around certain sprites on my CE board. It also goes dim every now and then and you can't anything on the screen. Here is the background info

* Boards been in storage for 2 years

* Used to work fine on another machine but I don't have access to that machine now

* I tested it on another machine with a computer power supply, same problem.

* I swapped in a world warrior board and it worked fine.

​​​​Is there a chance it's a voltage / failing power supply issue or do I have PCB problems ? Is there a chance that World Warrior simply doesn't need as much voltage as champion edition? All help is appreciated

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IMG20210505233944.thumb.jpg.fb7848c0e90434862201c6b573a52719.jpg

IMG20210504155845.thumb.jpg.9bd79e00bb235116b6b7d573b8e54bf0.jpg

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Check on the underside for bent pins, specifically under the ZIP RAMs, which are towards the back of the board furthest from the JAMMA connector. These often have long legs and they can get bent together causing either address of data bus issues, you look like you have address bus issues. They are actually quite dangerous as if the 5V pin is bent and touching any other pin it will dump 5v into the A custom chip.

 

Take static precautions too, that custom is a fragile beast.

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Check on the underside for bent pins, specifically under the ZIP RAMs, which are towards the back of the board furthest from the JAMMA connector. These often have long legs and they can get bent together causing either address of data bus issues, you look like you have address bus issues. They are actually quite dangerous as if the 5V pin is bent and touching any other pin it will dump 5v into the A custom chip.

 

Take static precautions too, that custom is a fragile beast.

 

Hey mate.

Thanks heaps for the reply. I'm pretty inexperienced here so when you say the 'underside' do you mean flip the whole thing over and check the solder side of the bottom board? or do you just mean the top side of the A board 'under' the B+ C boards?

Are these Zip Rams soldered in or are they ones I can try to re-seat? Also something to note is that 2 of the screws that hold the top boards on are missing? Any chance that's related? Should I be removing these 2 top boards??? I can upload some pics of the board if that helps. Once again, I appreciate this assistance.

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Hey mate.

Thanks heaps for the reply. I'm pretty inexperienced here so when you say the 'underside' do you mean flip the whole thing over and check the solder side of the bottom board? or do you just mean the top side of the A board 'under' the B+ C boards?

Are these Zip Rams soldered in or are they ones I can try to re-seat? Also something to note is that 2 of the screws that hold the top boards on are missing? Any chance that's related? Should I be removing these 2 top boards??? I can upload some pics of the board if that helps. Once again, I appreciate this assistance.

 

Best bet- pack it up properly and send it to Womble (if he has time to fix it)

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Best bet- pack it up properly and send it to Womble (if he has time to fix it)

 

Haha, Dodgey A board, I can see womble calling the Bomb Squad on that package ;)

 

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Hey guys. So I put the working World Warrior A board that I own with the B and C boards from the glitchy champion edition and it had the exact same sprite issues . So that means the A board is fine I guess ?
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Posted (edited)

Yes, that’s good news as it rules out a huge amount. Your A board is fine, so it’s something on either the B or C boards, or in the connections between then.

 

Next step would be to eyeball the C board for damage, because it sticks out you can get bent pins on the C custom. Some boards have black foam protection on the top of the C board, but others are just a bare IC, and if the boards are in a box with others you can still get damage.

 

If you can’t see anything wrong visually then unplug the C board from the Be board, then reconnect them, then test again. It can take a lot of force to separate them so check all the pins are still straight before you reconnect.

 

If that doesn’t change anything then reseat anything that’s in a socket on the B board. Use a wide flat bladed screw driver to gently lever up the chips at each end, then press them back into their sockets.

 

If after all that you still have the issue then that you’ve probably got a bad ROM, track rot, or a bad contact somewhere.

Edited by Womble
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Nah - leave the foam on, it would have protected the C custom IC.

 

Do the C board reseat and re-test first, then move onto the ROM reseat, just be very careful you don't gouge tracks, or end up with bent IC pins.

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I had graphic glitches before, and with game powered on put some pressure on the chip on the C board and come good (temporarily of course). Was the pins from chip to the pcb. but didnt look anything like what youre seeing to be fair
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Hmmm ok. So thats the 12 larger chips? I have a burner and some chips , should I start trying to burn new ones or is there something I can do to the old ones? Is there a particular one I should start with?

Track rot sounds nasty .....

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Hi, 'dumping' the ROMs just means using your EPROM programmer to read the contents of each ROM or EPROM and saving the files. The website mentioned above allows you to check individual files against ROMsets known / used in MAME.

 

If there is no match there's a good chance that particular ROM is faulty, contents corrupted or unreadable for some reason. This could help you to identify a problem component rather than just programming a full set of new EPROMs unnecessarily.

 

To avoid confusion you may find it helpful to work methodically; read one ROM, save the file, check it against the romident website, place it back in position (taking care to align all the pins into the socket so none are bent) move on to the next...

 

In the case of a board which is not working at all / may have already been worked on / fiddled with by persons unknown it can also help you to check if your ROMs make up a complete set, in the correct positions as the PCB location is often part of the filename or information revealed when you compare your files. It's a really useful tool for troubleshooting all sorts of game issues.

 

Regards, John

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