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Once they were Pins - Meteor Firepower and Flash


poidapoida

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I did a few tests with the the paints I used and had no issues. The following clear and yellow coat have come out well, what would the difference be?

 

Dunno unless the clear didn't react and then protected the yellow from reacting. Personally next time keep paint types like for like. You put in a lot of prep etc and it's heart breaking to have this happen to you.

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Dunno unless the clear didn't react and then protected the yellow from reacting. Personally next time keep paint types like for like. You put in a lot of prep etc and it's heart breaking to have this happen to you.
I really wanted to try and save that first layer of stencil. I'll look into getting some custom enamel spray cans colour matched to do the cab.

 

Sent from my SM-G925I using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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Looks like gas entrapment, one paint is oil based the other is acrylic which will never bond well & should never be used together.

 

Reading your post in detail confirms your problem, You cannot mix Oil based paint with an Acrylic as they are NOT compatible unless you put a barrier between them like using a product called ESP.

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/flood-500ml-esp-easy-surface-paint-preparation_p1566526

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  • 5 weeks later...

Backbox complete and hardware installed. The flashing cleaned up well apart from the area behind the battery leak. Gave the light sockets a light dremel and have started repinning the backbox loom.

 

The stencil colours have been matched and in enamel, ready to get onto the rest of the cab this weekend.

 

hXlgC1F.jpg

 

Wk2VSZT.jpg

 

5aF8paO.jpg

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Backbox complete and hardware installed. The flashing cleaned up well apart from the area behind the battery leak. Gave the light sockets a light dremel and have started repinning the backbox loom.

 

The stencil colours have been matched and in enamel, ready to get onto the rest of the cab this weekend.

 

https://i.imgur.com/hXlgC1F.jpg

 

https://i.imgur.com/Wk2VSZT.jpg

 

https://i.imgur.com/5aF8paO.jpg

 

Looks good!

There isn't any way to get the battery leak off?

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  • 1 month later...

I got the paints for the cab colour matched and packed in spray cans at Harts paints in Brisbane, $35 for the 1st can/matching and $30 a can after that. First layer was masked up and sprayed. While peeling off the stencil there were 2 sections that the top layer of ply came off with the stencil. One was near the right flipper button and the other below the coin door.

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Continued with the final stencil as the yellow wasn't anywhere near the areas that will have to be retouched. When applying the yellow stencil I left the backing on where I can, mainly in the areas where the ply has come off.

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Started to look at the touch ups needed last week, going to use Knead it to repair the small areas and see how I go with respraying them. Will need another light coat or two to match the paint in.

 

 

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fetch?filedataid=144481&type=thumb&attachmentnodeid=wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

 

 

I cleaned up the inside cab as it had been sitting for a while and then got onto refitting theinside of the cab. It was a quick process over a couple of nights as all the parts were already prepped.

 

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fetch?filedataid=144478&type=thumb&attachmentnodeid=wAAACH5BAEKAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAICRAEAOw==

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  • 2 weeks later...

The cabinet is now mostly complete and assembled. Coin door reinstalled along with the repaired lockdown mech, finished off the ground braid/wire and checked continuity. The backbox loom has had the IDC connectors repinned then reconnected to the light board.

 

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With the backbox on the cab and loom attached, the voltages tested good at the connectors. The new siderails were done by @Railways, these weren’t on their product list, but I sent the originals to them and they reproduced them. Great guys and recommend them highly.

The boards went into the backbox, the original sound board, solenoid driver and lamp board were serviced by Ken and the MPU is a replacement from NVRAM. I have used the Altek one before with no issues but the NVRAM one has multiple roms that you can select for Meteor. The displays that were in the game were shot, had 4 sterns and a bally, tested them in another machine and had one that had something show on the display. Got a replacement set of 6 digit displays from @Tangles, the transformer board is also from him. Was going to change the displays to 7 digits but the NVRAM MPU has the the divide by 10 rom and also can set the game up harder if it’s too easy. Really like the white and along with CPR backglass that is awaiting some new trim, think its gong to looking shmick!

 

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They things left that I will get to while doing the playfield –

Custom coin inserts

Try refinishing the coin plate or source one in better condition

Polishing the lockdown bar

Speaker has been ordered

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20191229_171405.thumb.jpg.6a9738fc66bd4f606dd0014425cc539e.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

New speaker and cleaned knocker has gone back into the cab.

 

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I prefer the look of the original drop targets, tracked down a couple to replace the odd ones and have cleaned the originals up with some sandpaper. I did try bleaching them but I would have taken to long and was worried about weakening the plastic. The Pinball Rescue decals I have are solid white so didn't have get the face clean, so focused on the edges and sides.

 

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A lot of the other mechs have been pulled apart and cleaned. Thanks to a post from @illawarra_steelers the cleaning of the mechs was alot easier. After a first attempt starting with autosol on the dirty mechs, the finish wasn't great. I have put all of them into a 50/50 vinegar bath and nearly all parts have come a great with a hand polish. Will hopefully get the 6 bank drop target bank cleaned and rebuilt this weekend and have flipper rebuild kits on order.

 

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