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Another instance of checking an unfinished project off my list. I still have the pinball to go but this one is easy and that one is hard 😉 This one should be real quick.

I bought this ArcadeWorx cab of @namastepat back in February. It's surprisingly large, taking up a lot of space on my garage floor so time to get it working and sitting somewhere else.

https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/92614-Arcadeworx-Bartop-cabinet-with-19-inch-monitor-75?highlight=bartop

Cabs is a little banged up with a few nicks but over all pretty good.

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All black and I love the Space Invaders cut-outs in the marquee area.

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So I thought I'd continue with the Space Invaders theme and keep the cab Black and Red. It didn't hurt that I had a pack of both red and black buttons 😉 I'd also bought a power supply and jamma harness to match the Pandora 4S I bought back in April.

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I installed the buttons and joysticks. Will need to check the controls for the Pandora to see if I need the other 3 holes. I'll use what I need and try to find some of those caps to cover any not used. Also the top row holes are smaller than the player button holes 😞

The P1 and P2 buttons I used (STD size) will never come out again LOL!

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Installed speakers inside the audio cut-outs.

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The IEC socket I have is not round like the hole that had been cut out 😞

Traced around and then did a little free-styling with my jigsaw. The flange on the socket hides the shoddiness 😄

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Wired mains socket, power supply and jamma harness power. I then fired it up to see if smoke would come out. Success!

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Damn I love how fast these Pandora's boot up unlike those shitty 60-1 jobs.

It was getting late so I'll finish wiring in the joysticks and buttons next weekend. One last thing was to mount the fan cover into the top. The Alien one I had suits the theme.

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With the top cut-out I've love to put in some acrylic and then an LED strip that swipes from left to right. Not sure how I'd do that but lit up red and sliding across would be awesome.

I also need to source some black t-molding as the control panel strip is missing.

I am bummed its a widescreen monitor but the bezel was cut to match and the screen came with it so I can't complain.

Cheers,

Brad

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Hey Brad, what size T-moulding do you need?

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

 

Hi John,

 

I'll need to measure it when I get home. Cab is MDF and appears to be 16mm but I'll double check. Thanks a bunch =)

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

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With the top cut-out I've love to put in some acrylic and then an LED strip that swipes from left to right. Not sure how I'd do that but lit up red and sliding across would be awesome.

 

 

Excellent machine you have made there sir. Makes me want to finish off my TouchMaster bartop project.:cry

 

Something like this for the LED strip?.....

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Red-30CM-32-Led-Knight-Rider-Flash-Strobe-Scanner-Neon-Strip-Light-DIY-/121723108926

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Excellent machine you have made there sir. Makes me want to finish off my TouchMaster bartop project.:cry

 

Something like this for the LED strip?.....

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Red-30CM-32-Led-Knight-Rider-Flash-Strobe-Scanner-Neon-Strip-Light-DIY-/121723108926

 

Yeah I've been looking at something like that. I could also setup an Arduino or similiar but seems overkill imo. I DO have an LEDWiz sitting here doing nothing so possibly wire up some LEDS behind a coloured plexi. Certainly a few options but I don't want to sink too much dollars into what essentially is a small gimmick. I just think it would look cool ;)

 

brad

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Yeah I've been looking at something like that. I could also setup an Arduino or similiar but seems overkill imo. I DO have an LEDWiz sitting here doing nothing so possibly wire up some LEDS behind a coloured plexi. Certainly a few options but I don't want to sink too much dollars into what essentially is a small gimmick. I just think it would look cool ;)

 

brad

 

A simple LED Chaser should do the trick, something like this.

 

o1o4QwT.jpg

 

Edited by Kaizen
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I have an off cut of 19mm smooth that you're welcome to Brad.

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

 

Thanks John. Happy to take it off your hands!

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

A simple LED Chaser should donthe trick, something like this.

 

o1o4QwT.jpg

 

 

Yep thanks for that!

 

Something along these lines is what I was looking at except I'd buy it. The above is way above my skill level and I reckon could source something retail on ebay for similiar dollars?

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

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I'm happy to knock up the circuit on Vero for if you want to go that way.

Total cost of components is $4 and around $1.30ea for 10MM Red LEDs from Jaycar, will run on 9-12v and you can connect more than one LED per output.

Edited by Kaizen
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I'm happy to knock up the circuit on Vero for if you want to go that way.

Total cost of components is $4 and around $1.30ea for 10MM Red LEDs from Jaycar, will run on 9-12v and you can connect more than one LED per output.

 

Damn that would be awesome Kaizen and very generous of your time. If you have the time PM me with what you need, money, measurements etc

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

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How's this look?

When the pot is in the middle position the duration is around 1 second and can be varied from 4 seconds up to 'fast'.

The triple LED strips seem bright enough and if needed you can add a second one for each section.

 

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It looks awesome!

 

I've just finished wiring up the cab, mounting the monitor, PSU and Cart. Just some tidy ups, mount the door then I can add this unit. It's going to look fantastic! Thanks again mate

 

Brad

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Update:

Finished connecting up the jamma harness to all of the player controls. I then mounted the monitor. I created a bottom rail and attached a piece of angle the hold the monitor in place. I then used some metal strapping to hold the top in place. Easily removed with a screw in each corner.

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I then fixed the PSU and Pandora into the base, tidied the harness with cable ties and used brackets to attach to side. Actually took this photo before tidying and mounting harness

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Here is is all fired up. The Pandora has a couple of annoyances though. The games list are not sorted alphabetically and you have sequels pages before original etc. Also they included Ms Pacman but it scaled to the widescreen and plays super fast. No doubt there are others so I disabled that game. A bit of reading and it seems it may be an SD card running xmame so I might take it apart, image it and see if I can tweak it somewhat. Others games that I've looked at run really well.

I definitely would not put a 60-1 or one of these in a full cab. PC all the way imo. They're just handy for small spaces.

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Attached the back door.

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Still need to fit the barrel lock, the light panel that Kaizen has kindly built for me and then I'm going to do up some Space Invaders themed artwork to finish it off.

Cheers,

Brad

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  • 1 month later...
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Its been a while but I've been pretty busy and lacked a little motivation. @Kaizen dropped his circuit off to me at least a month ago along with a strip of opaque red perspex. Thanks again mate, truly appreciated!

 

As the perspex was see through I needed to block it out so that the lights and wires were not visible when lit up. I looked at a few things and ended testing AND going with some heavy duty tracing paper/plastic. An off-cut from a large sheet @illawarra_steelers sent me for my EM restore. I affixed it and did a little test and it worked perfectly!

 

I then lengthened a few of the wires in the circuit and screwed each of the 4 light arrays onto a piece of 3 ply. So the perspex is hard up against the space invaders cut-outs and the light mounted ply is horizontal behind it. I have angled it up somewhat using a scrap piece of timber so that the lights are brighter without individual LEDs strobing though the perspex. I think it looks excellent! I will need to trim some of the tape I used to fix the paper as it's slightly encroaching on the bottom.

 

Now I just need to create/order some artwork, affix the t-moulding @Johns-Arcade sent me and the cab I bought from @namastepat will be complete.

 

Look at how awesome our little community is. 4 different members have helped me create this little project. Thanks again guys :cool:

 

 

Cheers,

 

Brad

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      /* Arduino 256 RGB LEDs Matrix Animation Frame * Using WS2812 LED Strips Created by Yvan / https://Brainy-Bits.com This code is in the public domain... You can: copy it, use it, modify it, share it or just plain ignore it! Thx! */ #include <avr/pgmspace.h> // Needed to store stuff in Flash using PROGMEM #include "FastLED.h" // Fastled library to control the LEDs // How many leds are connected? #define NUM_LEDS 256 // Define the Data Pin #define DATA_PIN 3 // Connected to the data pin of the first LED strip // Define the array of leds CRGB leds[NUM_LEDS]; // Create the array of retro arcade characters and store it in Flash memory const long DigDug01[] PROGMEM = { 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000 }; const long DigDug02[] PROGMEM = { 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0x0066cc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xff0000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0xcccccc, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000, 0x000000 }; void setup() { FastLED.addLeds<NEOPIXEL,DATA_PIN>(leds, NUM_LEDS); // Init of the Fastled library FastLED.setBrightness(15); } void loop() { // Put DigDug first frame for(int passtime = 0; passtime < 8; passtime++) { FastLED.clear(); for(int i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) { leds[i] = pgm_read_dword(&(DigDug01[i])); } FastLED.show(); delay(250); // Put DigDug second frame FastLED.clear(); for(int i = 0; i < NUM_LEDS; i++) { leds[i] = pgm_read_dword(&(DigDug02[i])); } FastLED.show(); delay(250); } }    
      Connect your Arduino to your PC, upload this code, plug it back into your frame and power it on and voila!
       
      Note I have not fixed and sealed the back yet so you'll see some odd shapes and light seeping through on the edges but when fixed properly it looks fantastic.
       
      Extras:
       
      One thing I have done is to source some WiFi integrated 2560's as I want to be able to program them over my WiFi Network instead of USB. I have not started this portion of the project yet.
       
      Audio is another optional accessory that I considered but I think whilst very doable may become annoying. You can do this and even add a volume control if you like.
       
      WIP Result. I've created around 100 sprites so far 🙂
       
       
      Cheers,
       
      Brad
    • By Brad
      I've had this machine sitting neglected in my garage for almost 2 years. Had the parts just not the inclination but over christmas the bug got hold of me and I started working on it.
       
      The cab is an old LAI Rampage cab:
       
      http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=9261
       
      There was no board, jamma harness, control panel, coin mech's or artwork included. What was included was the original 19" arcade monitor, power supply, fluro light and dodgy mame marquee.
       
      I started by creating a new control panel. The original was a 3 player setup but I've built this with 2 players in mind and a centre spinner. As my art skills are non-existant, in the short term I built the panel out of ply and stained and varnished it. Sure not original or normal but it came up okay with the result below:
       

       
      As you can see the player 2 joystick is a top fire as I wanted to be able to play Tron, Battlezone and Two Tigers easily. I'm sure there are other games with possibly doubling the top fire button as a push pull option for games like Discs Of Tron and Frontline.
       
      The Top Fire is a normal 8way stick with a modified shaft and top button. I have to say that the joystick itself is a little sloppy on movements and the shaft feels is too short due to the flange at the top. For normal games it's not so bad but I think I need to adjust it and put stronger springs in it.
       
      The left joystick is a baton type which I've never used before. I'm a huge fan of MCA's but I had no black ones left so used this out of a mame pack I'd bought ages ago. I'm actually quite surprised at how good it is and would definitely use them again if I had too.
       

       
      The panel has 6 player buttons each, Player 1 start, Player 2 start and Select & Escape buttons. The Select and Escape buttons are temporary until I grab some clear ones so I can print labels for them. Coin Inserts are supplied for P1 & P2 by using a custom made label and 12 volt LED rectangular buttons I had laying around.
       

       
      The spinner is a Turbotwist 2 that I got for christmas 2 years ago 😕 It is a fantastic piece of kit. USB interface, engineered to fit into a standard 28mm arcade button hole and has a range of options for knobs and wheels. I stuck with a reasonable std blue anodised knob with room for an insert. Many have mounted BYOAC tokens of which I have 100. I'd like to use an Aussie Arcade one 😉 I also added the energy storage cylinder which is effectively a steel piece that fits to the base and lets inertia keep spin going for a LONG time. It works REALLY well. You can check them out here:
       
      http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=268
       
      The spinner really comes into it's own for the games I've tried it on so far. Tempest and Arkanoid are simply awesome. Cameltry is now an extremely enjoyable game. Star Trek which I only ever play in Sydney's George st arcades in the 80's brings a tear to my eye 😉 Sure it's not in the original environmental cab but I can now play it properly. Other games I've played so far are Blasteroids, Cosmic Chasm, a few other racers and finally Tron. If the Top Fire joystick was restricted to 4 way (it does come with a restrictor) Tron would play much better. Spinner wise though it's perfect. What I need to do is wire in one of David's digital restrictors.....a project for another day.
       
      Bare Spinner
       

       
      Blue Anodised Knob
       

       
      6" Steering wheel
       

       
      The steering wheel is well made and works great but is limited without pedals. Works really well on 360deg driving games such as Pole Position, Sprint, Super Sprint etc but gear changes etc are an issue. What I've done is use the top fire as a gear stick and the top fire button as the accelerator until I get my Pole Position cab rebuilt. I mainly bought the wheel for unknown future uses and due to the fact that shipping separately at a later date was going to cost a bundle.
       
      Here's a shot of the bare bones PC components. Using a old GeForce 4 video card and Soft 15khz. Works great on this dodgy old arcade monitor.
       

       
      You can probably see the mini amp up the back. That's a $9.00 Ebay special and interfaces to an old set of car audio speakers.
       
      Currently trying out Maximus Arcade as the FE but having a few issues with it. It works but seems to have a few niggles with extra buttons and long delays on exiting games :unsure I'll see if I can tweak it some more and if not ditch it for good old Mamewah or Mala.
       

       
      Still to be done on this cab, tidy the wiring up, new artwork/marquee and I need to purchase decent bolts for the control panel and joysticks. The ones I have used are rat-shit.
       

       
      Oh and one last thing. Just a note to any boofheads like myself. If your using a laser mouse to setup your Mame Cab, stay away from using red cocktail stools as a platform. It took me about 3 hours to dawn on me why it didn't work.......the damn mouse laser is also red and obviously the red laser was being absorbed by the red stool. I didn't realise the spectrum was so wide :lol
       

       
      Cheers,
      Brad
    • By Brad
      I picked this cab up from a Tip Shop a few weeks ago now. I was hoping it was working but they would not let me test it. I took it home anyway to rescue it.



      The locks had no keys so I had to drill them out.


      Once I got it open I sadly discovered that the 19" tube had been broken at the back and was not salvageable.

      The upside was the discovery of a 1942 PCB. I have no way to test it but still a nice find.

      I'm not sure I'm keeping this cab as I simply do not have the room so I might re-sell it after I've reconditioned it as much as I can with spare parts.
      First was stripping it down. I took all the metal parts out such as the hinged monitor door, control panel, bolts, rear handles, hinge and any outward facing bolts.


      A quick wipe down and vacuum got rid of all the old dust, debris and cobwebs from a long storaged machine.
      I threw the old monitor, yoke and chassis away as effectively useless for me.


      Stripped monitor door and control panel.

      A light sand of all steel components with fine grit sandpaper and then 3 coats of satin black spraypaint to bring the components back to new. I also sprayed all of the bolts so that they blend into the black timber panelling.



      The monitor plexi was held onto the door with double-sided tape which I had to carefully separate so that I did no damage or scratches.

      Once separated I then had to remove the tape from both parts. The rainbow colour on the plexi has been sprayed on from the back so I had to ensure that I removed the residue without lifting the paint which was successful. I'll put it back together using new double-sided tape once it's all done.
      The control panel was fitted with a single player setup. A black MCA joystick, 2 player buttons, Player 1 Start, Player 2 Start buttons and a small single button to the right. I suspect that this had been rigged as a credit insert button as it looks to me it had been sitting in someones home for years and there was no coin mech installed anywhere.
      The MCA was rat shit, so I've replaced it with a spare (I have about 14 of them). Unfortunately I don't have any black ones so I'm using a single yellow I had that matches the yellow in the panel.
      All of the buttons I'll reuse as they are all fine including the micro-switches. The credit button however will need to be replaced as the top has snapped off. I'll need to try and source one as I've never seen one of these before and I don't want to drill a bigger hole.

      You can see the restored top unit below.

      I spent some time wiring up a new power supply, jamma harness and 60-1 board. I decided to use the 60-1 as this cab was a vertical cab and the bezel and monitor shroud were being re-used.
      I'm a real weenie when it comes to electricity so was concerned about wiring mains 240 power to the arcade power supply but 2 youtube video instructions later and I re-wired a std power plug into the arcade power supply within 5 mins. Hooked up the jamma harness to 5volt, 12volt and ground points on it and test-fired the arrangement. The power supply, board and monitor all turned on, the board initialised and after the 60 second startup (why so damn long?) I had the iCade menu displaying and running.



      I tidied up all the wiring and used cable ties to neaten it all up. It always surprised me how much room there is in an arcade cab. Really the monitor takes up most of the room.

      I've gone with an LCD as it's the easiest for me to mount although I do have several spare 19" crt PC monitors hanging around if I feel the need to change it to a CRT look.
      I ended up modifying the monitor frame to accommodate the LCD. I also created a new internal bezel to suit using 3 ply and sprayed it black to blend it.
      Once bolted together the monitor sits nice and flush to the front door.

      I'm creating an instruction card to suit the unpainted space left in the exterior bezel that will fit flush. Unfortunately my colour printer is almost dead so I need to wait till after eater to print it at work before I can remount the exterior bezel. I'll upate this thread once done.
      Thanks to @Homepin and @DavidAVD knowledge and part I've also mounted a volume control onto the rear of the cab. This is wired in between the jamma harness speaker output and the speaker inside the cab. I've re-used the single speaker that was already in the cab and mounted the control knob into a std button hole that a previous owner had drilled into the back. It's come up pretty nice and fits really well.

      The back of the cab also had a large square cut-out that gave access to the old monitor yoke but there was no cover. I bought a grill piece, sprayed it black and mounted it. It looks pretty good.

      Front View minus exterior Bezel

      Now with bezel minus instruction card until I can get it printed.

      Apart from that all I really need to do is do something about the damaged sides. Not sure if its worth it or there is a cheats way but the laminate has a chunk out on the right and some deep scratches on the left. It does give it character. I also replaced the barrel locks.


      Cheers,
      Brad
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