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It's great to see an Arcader now so addicted to his first Pinball project. It was only a matter of time till you joined us on the darkside. :p

 

Well after he poors all this time into it, it will be very hard to part with...(all part of the plan);)

 

Your switches wired shut are the end of stoke switches on the flippers. Absolutely necessary they work but yours are way dead, (that's why they are wired together)..

 

Don't bother tracking do the original replacement part as they got better over time in there quality.

 

Adapt these ones to fit. These are about as good as they got and they are cheap. Remember, you need 4....... 1 per flipper...

 

http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/playfield-parts/flipper-parts/03-7811.html

 

I'd also replace the flipper cabinet switches with 80-90s model ones.

 

Doing these mods may take it away form being stock but you will have the best flippers and a lot more reliable.

 

Tungsten tipped contacts designed for 50 volt DC will handle your machine's 28volt AC flippers with ease plus they are cheap as chips and probably a whole heap easier to get.

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Given that you've zoomed in on those terrible end of stroke switches that have been wired together, it seems like you had already guessed you have some work there.. they should not be wired together... you're going to need to buy flipper parts there.

 

Back to previous points...

Yes that looks like a mylar on the playfield... definitely obvious around the missing advance rollover in the photo showing the top of the playfield.

Those other 2 rollovers in the middle of the playfield are perfect. Nothing wrong there.

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I really appreciate all this feedback guys. Going to need all the help I can get LOL!

Like I've said before though, was always an EM guy just haven't been in the market for one. Now that I finally have my hands on one it would be tough to part with, especially with how much work I need to put into it.

Just test cleaned with Novus 1 on 2 spots. It comes up looking pretty good. I then tried it on a plastic it that came up really really nice 🙂

Okay put it back together to see what I could see.

Everything else here is cosmetic. It's time to delve into the dark art of EM maintenance 😕

Machine will not finish its reset sequence.

Score Motor constantly turns as these two coils constantly fire. Any ideas at what I should be looking at.

Player 1 Score Reels will not reset. None of them move.

464499533_20171227_1509141.thumb.jpg.4c22ea694b452942c5112efb06d0f93f.jpg

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Check for stuck tilt switches. There will be a few. Some machines have up to 5 tilt switches.

 

Ball roll, pendulum, slam on underside of playfield, slam on lower relay board and slam on front door.

 

Best to spread them apart so they won't "touch" while you are fixing it and adjusting for game play when you are finished with the maintenance.

 

Make sure there is a ball in the trough.

 

Try to identify what the relays are called. It would make it easier to look up in an online diagram then.

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LOL without doing anything other than lifting the playfield and checking for anything suspicious, I lowered it, fired it up and now instead of the usual startup sequence the roulette wheel starts spinning and won't stop.

 

Oh boy this is going to be fun

 

Brad

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LOL without doing anything other than lifting the playfield and checking for anything suspicious, I lowered it, fired it up and now instead of the usual startup sequence the roulette wheel starts spinning and won't stop.

Oh boy this is going to be fun

Brad

 

Does the outhole near the top of the playfield also fire every couple of seconds? That is the hole that a ball can fall into above the pop bumpers, it has writing around it that says spin wheel. If so, then its just the switch under it.

 

I had that issue with mine, the switch was stuck on, so if I powered up the machine the wheel would just start spinning non stop and couldn't get onto doing anything else.

 

It can be like this quite a lot with EM's, one step forward and then 10 steps backwards....

 

back to the original issue with it not resetting, as it has been mentioned a couple of times, you're best bet is to manually reset the score reels to double check there's no other issue preventing resets (highly unlikely though)... then you will know that the issue lies in some contacts being corroded or not touching OR it could be as simple as the score reels are stuck and need a really good clean.

the score motor turning and those 2 relays firing are doing exactly what they should be doing, so the problem lies between those relays and the score reels.

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Brk_oth said:
Does the outhole near the top of the playfield also fire every couple of seconds? That is the hole that a ball can fall into above the pop bumpers, it has writing around it that says spin wheel. If so, then its just the switch under it.

 

I had that issue with mine, the switch was stuck on, so if I powered up the machine the wheel would just start spinning non stop and couldn't get onto doing anything else.

 

It can be like this quite a lot with EM's, one step forward and then 10 steps backwards....

 

back to the original issue with it not resetting, as it has been mentioned a couple of times, you're best bet is to manually reset the score reels to double check there's no other issue preventing resets (highly unlikely though)... then you will know that the issue lies in some contacts being corroded or not touching OR it could be as simple as the score reels are stuck and need a really good clean.

the score motor turning and those 2 relays firing are doing exactly what they should be doing, so the problem lies between those relays and the score reels.

Like @ajfclark suggested I manually reset the reels for Player 1. By that I mean with it powered off I used a small screwdriver to press the plungers down until they went to zero. The 100's reel was jammed until I power cycled the machine again which I suspect shot power through it and loosened it.

The plunger on the 10's real is sticky, so when I depressed it sometime it wouldn't return. At least I know I have to work on that.

The spinner switch at the top was the first thing I checked BUT I didn't check underneath. Will report back shortly

Okay, hard to see with this photo but I cant see an issue with that switch. It's open and when I test push the top it closes. The coil under it for the kicker? is not randomly firing or anything.

spinner.thumb.jpg.6724dd74d6a59f9a189347d4debb22be.jpg

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Okay enough mucking around and time to get serious. Started tearing the cabinet down so I can clean, paint and then check components. I was a little surprised how easy it was. Thought it may have been a little more complicated than it was. Either way I took lots of pictures and labelled/bagged where appropriate.

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One thing in the image below. Where the playfield tilts up it rubs against the back of the cabinet and has scraped the paint away. Is there something I can do to stop that? Maybe some white felt or some type of adjustment?

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I've never seen a ball tilt before and I have to wonder why it's there when there is also a plumb bob tilt right below to it. It also might explain the extra smaller pinball that was sitting in the playfield :unsure

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With power I'm guessing that the two brown wires feeds power into the bottom unit, it doesn't matter what side they use? Either way I labelled them just in case.

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All of the red and white labels stapled around the inside I'm going to reproduce new ones so that it looks like it just came out of the factory.

Nice to see the cab number matches the backbox number

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I need to take out the psu, buttons, and a couple of coils and I can then get down to tracing the cab before preparing it for painting.

One thing I noted up the back where there is a coil hitting a big bell is another near it that appears to just be hitting a metal angled plate? Is that a free game knocker or something?

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Well, still plenty more work to do.

Brad

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With power I'm guessing that the two brown wires feeds power into the bottom unit, it doesn't matter what side they use? Either way I labelled them just in case.

AC doesn't matter as much as with DC as the electricity is oscillating, not flowing. An oscillation doesn't have direction so things will work either way you hook them up. One of the few times it does matter is when adding a switch. Putting a switch anywhere in the circuit will work, putting it close to where the active comes in to the machine makes it safer. Switching both is better and allows power points and plugs to be miswired etc.

 

Is the metal box at the back a step down transformer? Did Williams not use 120v/240v adjustable transformers?

 

One thing I noted up the back where there is a coil hitting a big bell is another near it that appears to just be hitting a metal angled plate? Is that a free game knocker or something?

Yes that's the knocker. I think Q-bert had one in the cabinet for when he falls off...

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Okay enough mucking around and time to get serious. Started tearing the cabinet down so I can clean, paint and then check components. I was a little surprised how easy it was. Thought it may have been a little more complicated than it was. Either way I took lots of pictures and labelled/bagged where appropriate.

 

http://harmoniseit.com/pinballrestore/cabteardown/20171228_140813.jpg

 

http://harmoniseit.com/pinballrestore/cabteardown/20171228_141812.jpg

 

One thing in the image below. Where the playfield tilts up it rubs against the back of the cabinet and has scraped the paint away. Is there something I can do to stop that? Maybe some white felt or some type of adjustment?

 

http://harmoniseit.com/pinballrestore/cabteardown/20171228_143521.jpg

 

I've never seen a ball tilt before and I have to wonder why it's there when there is also a plumb bob tilt right below to it. It also might explain the extra smaller pinball that was sitting in the playfield :unsure

 

http://harmoniseit.com/pinballrestore/cabteardown/20171228_143644.jpg

 

With power I'm guessing that the two brown wires feeds power into the bottom unit, it doesn't matter what side they use? Either way I labelled them just in case.

 

http://harmoniseit.com/pinballrestore/cabteardown/20171228_141238.jpg

 

All of the red and white labels stapled around the inside I'm going to reproduce new ones so that it looks like it just came out of the factory.

 

Nice to see the cab number matches the backbox number

 

http://harmoniseit.com/pinballrestore/cabteardown/20171228_140925.jpg

 

I need to take out the psu, buttons, and a couple of coils and I can then get down to tracing the cab before preparing it for painting.

 

One thing I noted up the back where there is a coil hitting a big bell is another near it that appears to just be hitting a metal angled plate? Is that a free game knocker or something?

 

http://harmoniseit.com/pinballrestore/cabteardown/20171228_140931.jpg

 

Well, still plenty more work to do.

 

Brad

When u lift the playfield you need to pull it towards you a bit before lifting it up. You should see from the shape of the rails that there is a flat spot where the you need to slide the end to before lifting it up ... hard to explain but have a look at the rails it slides on inside the cab and you will see.

 

Cheers

Dave

 

Sent from my SM-A520F using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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all the labels should be here http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

 

there are 3 different tilt systems in that game.

 

1. the blumb bob is the most common. shake the game too much and it connects to the ring and ends the ball

2. the ball on the rail. stops the player picking up the front of the game, smaller ball rolls forward pushes 2 contacts together, ends game

3. slam tilts. there will be one on the front door, playfield, lower cab and in the head. these will be either open or closed switches. once again to stop the player roughing up the game too much.

 

the ball to be used is 1 1/16"

 

been enjoying watching you do the above :)

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ajfclark said:

AC doesn't matter as much as with DC as the electricity is oscillating, not flowing. An oscillation doesn't have direction so things will work either way you hook them up. One of the few times it does matter is when adding a switch. Putting a switch anywhere in the circuit will work, putting it close to where the active comes in to the machine makes it safer. Switching both is better and allows power points and plugs to be miswired etc.

 

Is the metal box at the back a step down transformer? Did Williams not use 120v/240v adjustable transformers?

Yes that's the knocker. I think Q-bert had one in the cabinet for when he falls off...

Thanks for that. Yeah I keep calling it a PSU but I assume its actually a stepdown transformer. 240volt going in and most tof the rest appears to be 24 and 50 volt.

Yes QBert definitely had a knocker.

 

goodolddays said:
When u lift the playfield you need to pull it towards you a bit before lifting it up. You should see from the shape of the rails that there is a flat spot where the you need to slide the end to before lifting it up ... hard to explain but have a look at the rails it slides on inside the cab and you will see.

 

Cheers

Dave

 

Sent from my SM-A520F using Aussie Arcade mobile app

No you explained it well but there is bugger all gap and you have to lift the playfield up about 1cm or more as there are 2 metal inserts that slot into the bit under the lockdown bar so I can't really drag it forward until after it's lifted. It rubs before then though not as bad as later when I can slide it forward.

 

illawarra_steelers said:
all the labels should be here http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/

 

there are 3 different tilt systems in that game.

 

1. the blumb bob is the most common. shake the game too much and it connects to the ring and ends the ball

2. the ball on the rail. stops the player picking up the front of the game, smaller ball rolls forward pushes 2 contacts together, ends game

3. slam tilts. there will be one on the front door, playfield, lower cab and in the head. these will be either open or closed switches. once again to stop the player roughing up the game too much.

 

the ball to be used is 1 1/16"

 

been enjoying watching you do the above 🙂

Thanks for the explanation. I managed to locate the coin door slam switch. The last finger is about 4mm think with rust lol. Think I found the playfield one, have not seen the head unit one though.

The ball tilt to me is interesting but it makes sense now. I would have though the plump bob would have been enough but its cool nonetheless.

Thanks for links to the labels though. I had no idea inkochnito's archive had those as well! What a resource

Cheers,

Brad

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The spinner switch at the top was the first thing I checked BUT I didn't check underneath. Will report back shortly

- - - Updated - - -

Okay, hard to see with this photo but I cant see an issue with that switch. It's open and when I test push the top it closes. The coil under it for the kicker? is not randomly firing or anything.

 

Yeah that looks ok - although sometimes looks can sometimes be deceiving, for future reference try putting a bit of paper between contacts to double check.

Good to see that the most obvious part is out of the way, the next thing to look at would be the spin relay, check if its stuck on or if contacts not aligned properly... BUT given that you've now taken the machine apart there's no use going any further for now, hopefully when you put it back together it fixes itself.

 

Is the metal box at the back a step down transformer? Did Williams not use 120v/240v adjustable transformers?

Aftermarket step down transformer. So to me looks like it might be a US machine that was imported to Australia at some time many years ago.

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The tilts will look like these. If you can't find one, shake the machine and watch for what moves....

 

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/5031308748_a106cbe71f_o.jpg

 

images?q=tbn:ANd9GcT4AC8gUeEZrKSV96RDLseK4nSTr9XLHVomXM-UDF9HqVP_Bv6WSA

 

The one of the front door has the weight resting against the back face of the door meaning the weight will bounce off the door and strike the other contact usually resulting in the end of the "game" as does the ball roll tilt and often the cabinet slam tilt.

 

The remaining tilts....plumb bob etc usually only tilt a "ball"

 

This game and ball tilting is not guaranteed...It does vary and often adjustable.

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The roll tilt can also be set more sensitive to angle changes than the bob. This allows a loose bob (or for the bob to be bounced of the rod) but prevents someone putting ashtrays under the front legs.

 

The transformer that steps from 110v to 25v etc is at the end of those Brown wires, the large square lump of metal. Line voltage will go in to one winding and th voltages used (6v, 24v) will be on other secondary windings. Magnetic induction, yadda yadda.

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A couple of things I noticed looking through the A Go Go info on line..

 

As with all EMs only these guys took the time to stamp it on the diagram. Don't be surprised wire colours in your machine don't match the diagram. This happens a lot.

 

xnUI15R.jpg

 

Your tilt locations...

 

8z5GCJ5.jpg

 

tZKSPhk.jpg

 

According to the diagram, you have one tilt that will end the game on the front door they call "kick door switch" and it controls the lock relay. ( it is circled in yellow)

 

And four other tilts, the plumb bob, the ball tilt and two "shake tilts" and these all appear to work the tilt relay only meaning only ending the ball in play. Not unusual for multi player machines.

 

(these tilts are circled in blue)

 

RYDrNYb.jpg

 

Now something you need to be made well aware of.

 

This picture shows all the parts wired in on the "primary" side of the transformer. These parts all have MAINS voltage on them and not 24vAC like all the rest of the machine.

 

Learn these relays, switches etc because if you touch one of these parts while the machine is switched on while leaning over the side rail, you will get a boot and it will be mains voltage...

 

m5j720W.jpg

 

P.s..These A GO GO electrical diagrams are a treat to work with. They are so well laid out and easy to follow unlike many other EM diagrams I have had to work with.;)

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Thanks guys! Damn I'm learning a LOT going through this.

I found the playfield and door one, didn't notice the bottom one as it has a label on it called kick off switch. I was assuming kickoff but obviously it's kick and then off switch. That bottom panel is so damn dirty.

I know one of the first rules is not to go stupid cleaning them but is there something I can do about it without doing any damage?

As for wire colours I also have one of those notices stapled into the headbox. I tried reading those schematics as I got an original print in the service manual I found inside it and a PDF copy I sourced online. When originally looking to see why it no longer reset I looked at this area as a test matching it to a section in the headbox to if if I could follow the diagram and fortunately I could although I don't know about power and voltages yet so your warning is timely 😃

schematic.thumb.jpg.ed15f34b773101211e4a42a97aaa7c4e.jpg

Cheers,

Brad

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take the entire bottom board out - blast with the air compressor. while the board is out vacuum up the inside of the cab.

 

firstly i would inspect all the solder joints as over time they become brittle (especially williams).

 

so literally inspect by eye and pull on each wire.

 

look for any loose screws etc across the contacts (so will short out).

 

look at each relay and make sure there is a spring attached to each armiture

 

now the fun part - go through each switch stack and lighty clean each contact - tighten the switch stacks (wont tighten much)

 

as you do this manually open and close each relay, it becomes pretty easy to figure which switches should be open or closed.

 

also while you are there, also makes sure each contact blade is sitting inside the armature, as if somebody has dicked about with it previously they may be out of alignment.

 

yes you are right that you can go too far with this and most times you will find they are 1 step forward, 2 steps back.

 

it basically comes down to patience and logic.

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Don't forget leg day!

Okay Leg Update

LOL these have been sitting in the "leg restore station" for about 5 days or so. Thought I'd better check on them although Evaporust is non-corrosive. Result better than expected. Here is a side by side before and after comparison.

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A couple of coats of paint came away with it! So do I prime then hammertone? Should I treat with anti-rust or something first?

I need new leg bolts and levelers. I had to persuade 3 of them to come off, no surprise there however I don't know my own strength 😉

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I may need to drill this one out. It was not moving at all until it gave, got a few turns and then snap!

Cheers,

Brad

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