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Doctor Who restoration


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I started work on this game last Sunday 19th of November and have made some pretty good progress over the last few days.

 

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The machine has been pulled apart, decals stripped and cabinet bogged and sanded. The cab was pretty straight with some minor dings, depressions around the legs and minor separation of the front panel.

 

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Playfield has been removed and the top partially stripped. It looks pretty good. There are some minor issues so it will require touch ups and clear coat.

 

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Always hard to find a red color on these. Watching with interest:)

 

Yeah, anything with reds and yellows really suffers from fade, Indy, Fish Tales etc.

 

Here is what they should look like.

 

SgSig6h.jpg?1

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Dr Who is such a looker with full color in the cabinet, where abouts are you getting the decals?

 

Not sure, the decals came with machine but I could probably find out if you are looking for a set.

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Yeah, anything with reds and yellows really suffers from fade, Indy, Fish Tales etc.

 

Here is what they should look like.

 

SgSig6h.jpg?1

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

 

Not sure, the decals came with machine but I could probably find out if you are looking for a set.

 

There were some for sale here some years ago. I forget now who was printing them but I got a set back then and sold them on with my Dr Who when I let it go.

 

I never really regret letting it go due to the ongoing maintenance it tended to need but I miss it greatly.

 

Still the best pinball on the market.

 

I take my hat off to anyone who restores them well :)

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Some more progress over the last few days. Initial preparation of the main cabinet is completed and has now been painted.

 

Firstly undercoat and a light sand,

 

x9lRYsq.jpg?1

 

then primer/surfacer,

 

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then sanding.

 

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There is still some wood grain that needs work so there'll be a few more coats of primer/surfacer to fill in the grain and then more sanding.

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Can I ask What undercoat and primer do you use ? Is it in a spray can

 

Sure, happy to answer any questions. One of the key reasons I do these threads is to encourage people to give it a go themselves.

 

I use Zinsser 3-2-1 undercoat, primer, sealer (from Bunnings) for the undercoat. I either spray or roll it on with a foam roller depending on how much time I have and who is around at home.

 

The main reason I do this step is that I use the wet method when applying decals. When I haven't used this step in the past I've had instances where the water has leached through the paint and caused the wood to slightly split which has slightly impacted the final finish.

 

Primer/surfacer is from Super Cheap Auto. I spray with spray equipment when doing the full cabinet, as per photo. I use the cans on imperfections that require rework. On previous restores I've just used the cans. You generally only need 2, maybe 3. They have a special at the moment, 2 for $15.

 

After sanding and when I'm happy with the finish I spray the cabinet gloss black which helps to identify any final imperfections before applying decals. Here is a photo from a previous restore of this step.

 

qjjyenL.jpg?1

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Thanks for the sharing the info , one other question,I see other guys using automotive filler to patch / fill holes.is that what you use? .it must have no issue bonding to the timber then ?seeing it is made to be used on metal /car body’s.?Sorry for my ignorance, doing my first cab strip and decal in a few weeks , cheers

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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Thanks for the sharing the info , one other question,I see other guys using automotive filler to patch / fill holes.is that what you use? .it must have no issue bonding to the timber then ?seeing it is made to be used on metal /car body’s.?Sorry for my ignorance, doing my first cab strip and decal in a few weeks , cheers

 

Yes, automotive body filler is what many people use. Super Cheap have a few different options. Don't buy builders or tradies bog from Bunnings as the finish isn't as good and it'll require a lot more sanding than the automotive stuff.

 

Before applying you just need to prepare the area properly and removal all loose plywood to ensure filler has a good base to adhere too.

 

If you are doing your first cabinet I'd recommend looking through completed restoration threads from myself, robm and turbo27 and you should be able to gather most of the information you require.

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A bit more progress over the last few days. The main cabinet has had another coat of paint to fill in wood grain still present from the last paint and sand. This time I used a can of primer filler rather than roll out the spray equipment.

 

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I'm now doing lots of sanding. Weather permitting I should be ready for final coat of paint early next week.

 

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Headbox is done and ready for decals.

 

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Quick question witch epoxy would you use, and where to buy from Cheers

 

Here is an option available at inspirations paint, Norglass Norflex Epoxy Filler.

 

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Others have also mentioned Knead It epoxy putty as an option.

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/selleys-110g-knead-it-multipurpose-epoxy-putty_p1235232

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I'm now doing lots of sanding. Weather permitting I should be ready for final coat of paint early next week.

 

5xDWyDe.jpg?2

 

 

Really appreciate all the photos and tips you share when doing your restores - what grit do you sand the filler/surfacer back with before doing the final paint?

 

Thanks

Brett

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Really appreciate all the photos and tips you share when doing your restores - what grit do you sand the filler/surfacer back with before doing the final paint?

 

Thanks

Brett

 

It depends, in this case I put a couple of light coats on the areas that required attention and a final coat over the entire cabinet. As the finish looked good and quite flat I did a light block sand with wet and dry 400, 600 then 800 using the water bottle to give a light misting of water.

 

If the paint was thicker and/or finish not as good I probably would have started at 320 grit. In the past I've worked through the grades up to 1500 and 2000, but I've come to the conclusion that this is overkill, does not improve the final finish and is therefore not required.

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  • 1 month later...

I haven't worked on this project for at least 6 weeks. This week I have made some small progress. The main cabinet is now fully prepared, painted and is ready for decals.

 

r5JXRAG.jpg?1

 

As per my normal process, once the cabinet look complete it is painted black to identify any final issues. There was minor wood grain still visible in a few small areas so this required a light coat of primer filler which was then sanded back with 600 wet and dry.

 

O6eBgQr.jpg?1

 

Inside of the cabinet was also sprayed.

 

hzlb0DI.jpg?1

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