Jump to content
  • 0
IGNORED

Daytona USA not starting


blue95
 Share

Question

This may be a long shot but I'm after any info on this. Dad's (hamo54) Daytona all of a sudden decided not to start, all we get is a screen with a pattern on it (sorry about the shitty pic)

14681734_10211220174768300_3622983220855881839_n.jpg

Has anyone seen this before?

I have an owners manual here, but it is not very helpful. Is there a proper technical manual anywhere that has what the status .eds mean, or where any useful voltage test points are?

There's a few red leds lighting up, but there is a row of 5 green and 5 red on the game board and none of those are coming up

14716086_10211220174208286_7318008394422776220_n.jpg

14639683_10211220173528269_480625335157468508_n.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

if none of the green lights are coming on, you got problems

it mean it's not booting up and 9 out of 10 times it had to do with the 2 big custom chips on the bottom board

you can't miss them , no easy fix

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

That's a modded version of Daytona , ( Daytona to the Maxx )

The checker screen means it hasn't booted up , if it's a twin swap the board to the other side and see if the problem follows.

 

The small PCB behind the main board is the I/O board , the main board won't boot if there is a problem with this either , if you look there are 2 Red LED's , one is power status so should always be on , the other is the reset LED this will flash once on power up if the CPU is resetting properly.

On the main board there is also a Red power LED on the same side as the others but near the front that should always be on.

 

The 5 Green LEDS indicate TGP activity of the 4 Main Graphic Processors at the rear of the CPU board , the 5th ( closest to 5 reds ) indicates post CPU reset activity / Program ready and ok.

The reds are supposed to indicate which if any of the TGP's are not receiving or sending correct data but totally useless because the IC's need to be working to display them correctly.

All of the activity LEDS are of no use to the operator /owner and of extremely limited use to techs, they only show when things are normal which means the game is working and no need to look at the LEDS anyway.

 

The voltage on these boards is critical , if you look at the CPU board ( with all the LEDS ) there is a single INTEL IC , beside that IC is a component that looks like a small resistor marked PC101 , it is actually a capacitor , put you multimeter across this and you should read exactly 5.0volts , good is between 4.95 and 5.15 , anywhere outside this and you will have problems.

 

My best advice for these type of boards is to NEVER push on them trying to reseat Roms , if that did magically make it come back to life it would only be very short term, you have a better chance of damaging the board than fixing anything. ( yes this did work on very old game board that were renowned for having cheap nasty sockets that suffered constant connection issues ) this is not and has never been an issue on any of these types of boards., the only socket issues these suffer from is corrosion so cleaning, pulling them in and out is not repairing them, they need replacing.

Also unless you absolutely know what you are doing never pull these boards apart , the legs around them form the skeleton that maintains their integrity so any flexing almost always causing damage that can be a nightmare to locate and repair.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
That's a modded version of Daytona , ( Daytona to the Maxx )

The checker screen means it hasn't booted up , if it's a twin swap the board to the other side and see if the problem follows.

 

The small PCB behind the main board is the I/O board , the main board won't boot if there is a problem with this either , if you look there are 2 Red LED's , one is power status so should always be on , the other is the reset LED this will flash once on power up if the CPU is resetting properly.

On the main board there is also a Red power LED on the same side as the others but near the front that should always be on.

 

The 5 Green LEDS indicate TGP activity of the 4 Main Graphic Processors at the rear of the CPU board , the 5th ( closest to 5 reds ) indicates post CPU reset activity / Program ready and ok.

The reds are supposed to indicate which if any of the TGP's are not receiving or sending correct data but totally useless because the IC's need to be working to display them correctly.

All of the activity LEDS are of no use to the operator /owner and of extremely limited use to techs, they only show when things are normal which means the game is working and no need to look at the LEDS anyway.

 

The voltage on these boards is critical , if you look at the CPU board ( with all the LEDS ) there is a single INTEL IC , beside that IC is a component that looks like a small resistor marked PC101 , it is actually a capacitor , put you multimeter across this and you should read exactly 5.0volts , good is between 4.95 and 5.15 , anywhere outside this and you will have problems.

 

My best advice for these type of boards is to NEVER push on them trying to reseat Roms , if that did magically make it come back to life it would only be very short term, you have a better chance of damaging the board than fixing anything. ( yes this did work on very old game board that were renowned for having cheap nasty sockets that suffered constant connection issues ) this is not and has never been an issue on any of these types of boards., the only socket issues these suffer from is corrosion so cleaning, pulling them in and out is not repairing them, they need replacing.

Also unless you absolutely know what you are doing never pull these boards apart , the legs around them form the skeleton that maintains their integrity so any flexing almost always causing damage that can be a nightmare to locate and repair.

 

I got over there to check it out again, the smaller board has 2 LEDs that stay on all the time. The voltage on the main board is 5v exactly

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

So is this a twin machine? if yes them swap the board to the other side and see if the problem follows , if not it could be either the main board or I/O board that is faulty.

There is a little cable ( the only cable ) that connects to the side of the main board, this comes from the I/O board and if not connected you will see this pattern on the screen.

Same as if both or one of the boards is faulty.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0
On 28/10/2016 at 4:30 AM, Jomac said:

That's a modded version of Daytona , ( Daytona to the Maxx )

The checker screen means it hasn't booted up , if it's a twin swap the board to the other side and see if the problem follows.

 

The small PCB behind the main board is the I/O board , the main board won't boot if there is a problem with this either , if you look there are 2 Red LED's , one is power status so should always be on , the other is the reset LED this will flash once on power up if the CPU is resetting properly.

On the main board there is also a Red power LED on the same side as the others but near the front that should always be on.

 

The 5 Green LEDS indicate TGP activity of the 4 Main Graphic Processors at the rear of the CPU board , the 5th ( closest to 5 reds ) indicates post CPU reset activity / Program ready and ok.

The reds are supposed to indicate which if any of the TGP's are not receiving or sending correct data but totally useless because the IC's need to be working to display them correctly.

All of the activity LEDS are of no use to the operator /owner and of extremely limited use to techs, they only show when things are normal which means the game is working and no need to look at the LEDS anyway.

 

The voltage on these boards is critical , if you look at the CPU board ( with all the LEDS ) there is a single INTEL IC , beside that IC is a component that looks like a small resistor marked PC101 , it is actually a capacitor , put you multimeter across this and you should read exactly 5.0volts , good is between 4.95 and 5.15 , anywhere outside this and you will have problems.

 

My best advice for these type of boards is to NEVER push on them trying to reseat Roms , if that did magically make it come back to life it would only be very short term, you have a better chance of damaging the board than fixing anything. ( yes this did work on very old game board that were renowned for having cheap nasty sockets that suffered constant connection issues ) this is not and has never been an issue on any of these types of boards., the only socket issues these suffer from is corrosion so cleaning, pulling them in and out is not repairing them, they need replacing.

Also unless you absolutely know what you are doing never pull these boards apart , the legs around them form the skeleton that maintains their integrity so any flexing almost always causing damage that can be a nightmare to locate and repair.

I’ve got this problem. Voltage goes from 2-5v but never stable at 5v is the cap there gone? The voltage from the power supply is stable out of V2 and 4. Is there a location before this to check the 5V? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

You are already identified the problem yourself, if the power supply voltage is stable but the voltage on the board isn't it can only be what is in between, wires and connections.
These machines are 28 years old the connections between the power supply and boards are a constant problem now.
An easy tip to find where the problem is, Put your meter across PC101 on the mainboard, then simply wiggle each connection that goes from the power supply to the board and see which one changes the voltage.
Also if the power supplies are original, there won't be any caps left inside them, just shells of what used been caps as well as a heap of corrosion damage from all the old cap contents, they can be rebuilt but not a fun job if they have never been touched because they will be rotten inside.
Note: measuring 5v is not an indication of the condition of a DC power supply, when all the caps leak or dry up they don't filter the DC anymore and pass a lot AC to the boards causing all sorts of issues.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...