Jump to content
IGNORED

43"/27"/DMD VP build


benird
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well I've been posting little bits and pieces around here about this build for a few weeks now so I figured I should actually get the build thread started.

 

So far I've acquired the hardware and software, built a mock up cabinet to test the software function and fix any issues around tables.

 

The screens I'm using at an ASUS 27" monitor and a Soniq 43" TV. The PC is a i7 with 16GB RAM, 2GB Nvidia GTX 750 Ti and 128gb SSD running Windows 7 with PinballX, Visual Pinball 9 and Future Pinball. The interface is the 'Real Plunger' interface from @OzStick and the DMD that Chris sells too. So far both of these have been working a treat and I'm looking forward to exploring the DMD further. The cabinet will be 16mm MDF.

 

I've also bough a PDI widebody glass from jordan08 on the sale forum.

 

Attached are my starter mock-up photos.

 

Hopefully in the next 2 weeks I'll get around to cutting the cabinet out and some actual assembly will start.

 

I'm unsure yet whether I'll put decals on it or whether I'll put a Zeboards feedback system in it.

 

I am confused as to what people use for trimming around the edges, is it easiest to use proper side rails and a lock down bar (if so do you need a bracket also) or would you recommend getting one fabricated? My initial measurements have the play-field TV sitting in about 20mm from the edges.

20160727_211542.thumb.jpg.701cc7762d92e220e4f5cb142dd9b47c.jpg

20160729_234526.thumb.jpg.030f2ece6925cc7d691e48665f85f604.jpg

20160729_234530.thumb.jpg.b6ff0fd3f53d3ff974e94c1ec6a96abe.jpg

20160731_000414.thumb.jpg.4f8b212b7c6226fe1b480521232da0fb.jpg

Edited by benird
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Great idea with your mockup cab there! That will be a big help by getting everything setup before you put it in an actual cab. Cos once it's in a cab it is more of a pain to work on.

 

Definitely put decals on the cab and original side rails and lockdown bar. The more it looks like a real pin the more it "feels" like a real pin when you play! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like you're a bit further along than my build benird (which is nowhere except in my head at the moment lol). I know what I plan to build but I'm kind of unsure whether I should be buying all the cabinet trim and then building the cab to suit, or build the cab on what I'm told is the right dimensions and hope the trim fits! I know once I get started I'll get some momentum but at the moment I can feel myself putting off starting :/

 

I have that same Soniq E43V15C LCD that you're using - bought it on special for $299 a few months back, and figured it was probably the largest size I could fit in a widebody cabinet without decasing. Are you happy with how it performs as a playfield?

 

I'll be watching your thread with interest anyway since it looks like you're building something very similar to what I hope to!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahhh sounds like how mine was a month to 6 weeks ago. I've gone the big bang approach and have bought as many parts as I can upfront but I am now stuck with the conundrum of, do I buy the finishing touches now or wait? Not being a hardcore pinball player or builder I really am hoping that the plans which say they're a Williams Widebody actually are a Williams Widebody, but only time will tell. I'm also muddling through the terminology of items available for purchase with no real understanding of any of the descriptions, but I think I'm getting there :)

 

All I can say is you're probably best off just starting. The guys here have all been great with the info they've provided and I have had a long phone conversation with Chris/@ozstick and another few phone conversations with @Kaizen. These conversations are really what got me motivated to start. Then reading through build threads, seeing the different steps and traps that people went through has all motivated me to get going.

 

By the looks of it there's a big VPin community down in SA and there's a number of retailers down that way so you're in a good starting position.

 

As for the TV, I'm loving it, the size is looking pretty much perfect for a VPin setup, I'm not seeing any ghosting on the screen (but I'm no video expert) and once the power state is set correctly it works perfectly every time with the master/slave power board I bought from Bunnings. In fact the easiest part of this whole thing so far was getting the Monitor, the DMD and the TV to all work perfectly. This was the part I expected to be the biggest nightmare but the reality has been the exact opposite.

 

I look forward to adding to it, and the build thread gives me more motivation to actually progress.

 

Looks like you're a bit further along than my build benird (which is nowhere except in my head at the moment lol). I know what I plan to build but I'm kind of unsure whether I should be buying all the cabinet trim and then building the cab to suit, or build the cab on what I'm told is the right dimensions and hope the trim fits! I know once I get started I'll get some momentum but at the moment I can feel myself putting off starting :/

 

I have that same Soniq E43V15C LCD that you're using - bought it on special for $299 a few months back, and figured it was probably the largest size I could fit in a widebody cabinet without decasing. Are you happy with how it performs as a playfield?

 

I'll be watching your thread with interest anyway since it looks like you're building something very similar to what I hope to!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahhh sounds like how mine was a month to 6 weeks ago. I've gone the big bang approach and have bought as many parts as I can upfront but I am now stuck with the conundrum of, do I buy the finishing touches now or wait? Not being a hardcore pinball player or builder I really am hoping that the plans which say they're a Williams Widebody actually are a Williams Widebody, but only time will tell. I'm also muddling through the terminology of items available for purchase with no real understanding of any of the descriptions, but I think I'm getting there :)

Yeah, I think I'm going to buy the parts first and build the cab round them. Would be really bad to build a cab and then find it was 10mm too wide for the parts! And I know what you mean ... so many different rails and brackets it's hard to guess which ones you need! And I haven't found a handy here's-how-you-assemble-the-standard-components-of-a-pinball-cabinet manual on the web lol

 

All I can say is you're probably best off just starting. The guys here have all been great with the info they've provided and I have had a long phone conversation with Chris/@ozstick and another few phone conversations with @Kaizen. These conversations are really what got me motivated to start. Then reading through build threads, seeing the different steps and traps that people went through has all motivated me to get going.

I've read lots of build threads here on AA and on vpforums, but the really finicky details that I'd obsess over aren't ever explained - probably because they're as plain as day to someone who's worked through making their own cab! Sadly I'm sort of a perfectionist, and I figure if I'm only making this cabinet once then I want to get it right first time! :confused: I will maybe try to find someone in Adelaide with a vp cab who is willing to let me visit and see theirs and impose on their time with questions for 15 minutes. If I can physically see how somebody has built theirs, which trim parts were used and how they attach together and so on, then I reckon it'll convince me that I can do it too lol :)

 

By the looks of it there's a big VPin community down in SA and there's a number of retailers down that way so you're in a good starting position.

I'm not sure there's many retailers, I think I'll be buying all the parts from interstate! Both of the local pinball specialists I've spoken to suggested that I go directly to the suppliers in other states rather than through them as it would be cheaper (and presumably they don't want the business that much). But hey, it's still supporting aussie businesses either way! :023:

 

As for the TV, I'm loving it, the size is looking pretty much perfect for a VPin setup, I'm not seeing any ghosting on the screen (but I'm no video expert) and once the power state is set correctly it works perfectly every time with the master/slave power board I bought from Bunnings. In fact the easiest part of this whole thing so far was getting the Monitor, the DMD and the TV to all work perfectly. This was the part I expected to be the biggest nightmare but the reality has been the exact opposite.

Awesome! I bought the TV trusting in my research that it was going to meet the requirements for the job, so it's great to hear it does! And haha, I'm the opposite... I'm sure I can get the computing and software side of it all working no problem, it's constructing the thing that has me nervous :huh: :rolleyes

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Anyway ... I didn't mean to derail your build thread benird. I'll stop posting in it now, sorry!

Edited by Arsey
Spelling mistake
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No problem commenting on the thread, I like the fact that me starting may motivate you to start.

 

I'm really enjoying the project so far, and I'm going through the tables alphabetically to change the plunger to work with the 'real plunger' interface. Last night I finished the tables up to J so I think I've reached the half way point. It's great going through them all and actually getting a feel for the tables and working out how they're put together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I cut all my boards today. Next time I get a few hours it will be time to hit the router and cut the corners of the cabinet. I'm going with rebated corners to try and hold them tighter. i'm also going to look for the glass dimensions on the PDI glass so I can figure out if I need to route the cabinet sides while it's all disassembled for easy installation.

 

I've still got to work out what I'm going to do for a coin door. My preference is a Williams or Bally coin door with or without coin mechs but they are a really tough item to track down. It's more to give the cabinet a more authentic look than function.

 

No pics today though as a pile of cut boards really isn't that photogenic.

 

What are people's thoughts on adding Mag Save buttons? Are there enough tables which use them to warrant adding them? I know Black Knight uses them, and it's a cool table, but is it worth adding them just for that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

What are people's thoughts on adding Mag Save buttons? Are there enough tables which use them to warrant adding them? I know Black Knight uses them, and it's a cool table, but is it worth adding them just for that?

 

I would recommend adding them, as they are worth it for the latest VPX Black Knight 2000 alone IMO. The added bonus is that with two flipper buttons each side, you can totally control the PBX table / group selection and cabinet shutdown without removing your hands from the lockbar. The only PBX function that I don't control with them is table exit. Having that on another button (or on an iPac2 shift) means that you can't accidentally shutdown a table during play.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So I didn't get do build any more of my cabinet over the weekend but I have now run through all of the tables and gotten the analogue interface working on all of the plunger type tables.

 

I'm now however looking for where is the best place to buy lock down bars and side rails from? And do you need the bracket for under the lock down bar as well os the lock down bar? I've never owned or built a pinball table before so I'm not sure what parts are and aren't required.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Looks like you're a bit further along than my build benird (which is nowhere except in my head at the moment lol). I know what I plan to build but I'm kind of unsure whether I should be buying all the cabinet trim and then building the cab to suit, or build the cab on what I'm told is the right dimensions and hope the trim fits! I know once I get started I'll get some momentum but at the moment I can feel myself putting off starting :/

 

I have that same Soniq E43V15C LCD that you're using - bought it on special for $299 a few months back, and figured it was probably the largest size I could fit in a widebody cabinet without decasing. Are you happy with how it performs as a playfield?

 

I'll be watching your thread with interest anyway since it looks like you're building something very similar to what I hope to!

I have the Soniq 43" tv as well in my build project - it is great value and looks great to me.

 

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's been a while since I updated my progress which has been for a few reasons. Mostly because I've got no time having a young family, also because I've been working on the software side of the build more than the hardware and that's really boring to take photos of and also I've been spending the time gathering all the parts required.

 

However as a quick update I now have all of the tables working with the 'Real Plunger' interface a few colourised DMDs and generally I've been playing with the DMD. I'm also starting to look at how to interface with the Zebsboards EZ Install Kit.

 

The boards are now all cut though just waiting for routing the corners and cutting out the holes for coin door, DMD, speakers, plunger, buttons, breathing holes, etc. All metal parts have been purchased and arrived, I'm waiting for my glass to arrive and EZ Install Kit.

 

So here's a photo of where everything is at. Hopefully this weekend I get a chance to hit the tools again.

 

1960545897_Allparts.thumb.jpg.bb13655a75e07ed1dd3bedb015d56abd.jpg

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Oh and one question I do have if anyone can answer is which way is up on the glass side slides? I've attached a picture of the end of them I can't work out if the sits below or above the horizontal bit with the bit sticking up ie sort of in the photo's orientation or is it upside down or is the sticking up bit like a T-mouding T?

 

Can anyone please enlighten me?

 

1273202461_glassslide.jpg.6a897a04e77887e3b7dfdf737fab76f6.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You've been making good progress benird! I really like your idea of putting the switches and plunger and eveything into a mock-up first so you can test it all beforehand - think I'll do the same myself.

 

You mentioned in an earlier post in this thread that you bought your DMD from Chris at OzStick. Is that the LED one (PIN2DMD) or a plasma DMD like in a regular pinball? He doesn't seem to list any DMDs on his site at all, but a PIN2DMD is what I was thinking of for my own cab :)

 

I saw in another thread that you mentioned getting your widebody lockdown bar from PSPA ... did you source all your other trim parts (legs, hinges, etc) from there too? They're the only local supplier I've found online that seem to have stock of most of the things I'd need. Did you get any parts for your backbox too? Didn't appear so from your pic and was just wondering.

 

Looking at the picture of the glass slide, I'd think it's to be used upside-down compared to the pic you posted. I suspect you'd need to route a groove down the centre of the cabinet side, glue the glass slide into the groove, and then the glass would slide along the opposing top parts of the "f" shape. Kind of like this (and excuse my crappy art lol):

 

glass-slide.jpg.367e1788848b6979f009ec7202b6a5aa.jpg

 

However I don't own a pinball cab to check, and haven't ever built one before, so really I'm just saying how it appears to me that it most likely is used :blink: Definitely wait until somebody with first-hand knowledge can confirm! :D

 

 

 

Edit: Never mind on the DMD question lol ... I just saw from the last pic of your opening post that it does look to be an LED DMD. I think I need to give Chris a call very soon! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You've been making good progress benird! I really like your idea of putting the switches and plunger and eveything into a mock-up first so you can test it all beforehand - think I'll do the same myself.

 

You mentioned in an earlier post in this thread that you bought your DMD from Chris at OzStick. Is that the LED one (PIN2DMD) or a plasma DMD like in a regular pinball? He doesn't seem to list any DMDs on his site at all, but a PIN2DMD is what I was thinking of for my own cab :)

 

I saw in another thread that you mentioned getting your widebody lockdown bar from PSPA ... did you source all your other trim parts (legs, hinges, etc) from there too? They're the only local supplier I've found online that seem to have stock of most of the things I'd need. Did you get any parts for your backbox too? Didn't appear so from your pic and was just wondering.

 

Looking at the picture of the glass slide, I'd think it's to be used upside-down compared to the pic you posted. I suspect you'd need to route a groove down the centre of the cabinet side, glue the glass slide into the groove, and then the glass would slide along the opposing top parts of the "f" shape. Kind of like this (and excuse my crappy art lol):

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]99133[/ATTACH]

 

However I don't own a pinball cab to check, and haven't ever built one before, so really I'm just saying how it appears to me that it most likely is used :blink: Definitely wait until somebody with first-hand knowledge can confirm! :D

 

Thanks for the kind words. It's getting there but frustratingly slow but I'm getting there.

 

The mockup has been great to get a feel for the machine while doing the software bits, it allows me to properly get keybinds correct, get a feel for the plunger on each table and adjust the pull speed, launch strength, etc it also helps that the playfield is sitting on the right orientation and doesn't move too much. The kids and my wife also love it and I'm forgiven for the money I keep spending ;)

 

As for parts, email/call Chris at OzStick to talk about the DMD but yes it is a LED PIN2DMD, it's an amazing unit and well worth it, it also is far smaller than a 3rd monitor so far easier to fit in the back box.

 

Pretty much any parts I couldn't source from OzStick I bought from PSPA with the exception of the side rails and backbox hinges which I bought from Railways. All 3 have been helpful and very prompt with shipping. Personally I'd prefer to support Aussie, companies where possible, even if there's a small markup. After shipping the difference usually isn't very much. All 3 being AA sponsors also helped my decision.

 

As for the backbox, given it's a 27" Monitor and DMD I haven't bought any specific parts other than the DMD, I'm not yet sure what speakers I'll use but I suspect it will end up being a decent 2.1 PC speaker setup.

 

I did some googling tonight and watched a few how to remove the playfield glass YouTube clips and in the few frames where you see the glass under the side rails I think you're right around the glass slides. it also looks to be a 1/16" slot required so the T-moulding router bit I used for my arcade machine should do the trick.

 

I also have never done and maintenance on a pinball machine in the past nor do I own my own table, something I hope to remedy after this project but only time will tell there. So many project not enough time or money, I am really loving this as a hobby however, so much reward for your work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the kind words. It's getting there but frustratingly slow but I'm getting there.

 

The mockup has been great to get a feel for the machine while doing the software bits, it allows me to properly get keybinds correct, get a feel for the plunger on each table and adjust the pull speed, launch strength, etc it also helps that the playfield is sitting on the right orientation and doesn't move too much. The kids and my wife also love it and I'm forgiven for the money I keep spending ;)

 

As for parts, email/call Chris at OzStick to talk about the DMD but yes it is a LED PIN2DMD, it's an amazing unit and well worth it, it also is far smaller than a 3rd monitor so far easier to fit in the back box.

 

Pretty much any parts I couldn't source from OzStick I bought from PSPA with the exception of the side rails and backbox hinges which I bought from Railways. All 3 have been helpful and very prompt with shipping. Personally I'd prefer to support Aussie, companies where possible, even if there's a small markup. After shipping the difference usually isn't very much. All 3 being AA sponsors also helped my decision.

 

As for the backbox, given it's a 27" Monitor and DMD I haven't bought any specific parts other than the DMD, I'm not yet sure what speakers I'll use but I suspect it will end up being a decent 2.1 PC speaker setup.

 

I did some googling tonight and watched a few how to remove the playfield glass YouTube clips and in the few frames where you see the glass under the side rails I think you're right around the glass slides. it also looks to be a 1/16" slot required so the T-moulding router bit I used for my arcade machine should do the trick.

 

I also have never done and maintenance on a pinball machine in the past nor do I own my own table, something I hope to remedy after this project but only time will tell there. So many project not enough time or money, I am really loving this as a hobby however, so much reward for your work.

 

You're welcome. You're positively speeding along compared to me ... I've been thinking over this for 6 months and not done anything more with it except ongoing research! I forgive myself though as other parts of life have been insanely busy lol.

 

Yep, I can see how it would be useful for all those reasons. You've convinced me I'd be well served to do the same while I get the computing side of things all worked out! And haha yes, getting that wife approval factor is so important for us all ;)

 

I'll definitely be calling Chris to talk DMDs/plungers/switches in the near future. And that's great to know that all the local suppliers have been so professional ... like you, I'd 1000% prefer to support businesses here!

 

Thanks for replying, and I'll continue to watch your thread carefully as your build is almost identical to the one I planned and I'll be following along a month or two behind :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fingers crossed I get to cutting the corners of the cabinet on Sunday and cut all of the holes for buttons, plunger, coin door, etc.

 

One question though. Does anyone know the dimensions for where the plunger should sit?

 

I've currently got it drawn 45mm in from the right of the cab and 50mm down from the top, looking at pictures that looks about right but my schematics for the cab don't show the dimensions for where to situate the plunger. They show the flipper button locations but not the plunger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fingers crossed I get to cutting the corners of the cabinet on Sunday and cut all of the holes for buttons, plunger, coin door, etc.

 

One question though. Does anyone know the dimensions for where the plunger should sit?

 

I've currently got it drawn 45mm in from the right of the cab and 50mm down from the top, looking at pictures that looks about right but my schematics for the cab don't show the dimensions for where to situate the plunger. They show the flipper button locations but not the plunger.

 

i'll be heading to the cave of wonders tonight later for some games, if someone hasn't already posted, I'll measure where my plunger is - I used a real pinball cabinet in my 2nd vpin build so I'll measure where the factory put it. when you say 50mm down from the top, does that include the lockdown bar or just bare wood ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jed,

 

Including lockdown bar so 45mm from bare wood.

 

if you are going to put in a real plunger, then you will have to make sure the other side of it doesn't intefere with where your panel is mounted ie mount your panel first how you like it then have a look at where to mount the plunger, much depends on depth of penel mounting plus thickness of your panel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I got to work on the cabinet again today, finally have it at a point where I can clamp it together and have it look like a machine. After a major problem with cutting the hole for the coin door on my arcade cabinet I worked out a better way to cut the hole with a jigsaw (read the Triton router table instructions and saw that it also holds jigsaws ;) ) This allowed us to relieve the stress on the blade so it cut much better. I was also surprised by how easy the plunger hole was to cut.

 

Next week the plan is to screw and glue the main cabinet together then work on the back box in earnest. Fingers crossed 2 or 3 more weekends and it will be up and running. Also fingers crossed the Zebsboards EZ Install kit was released from customs today so it will arrive tomorrow or Tuesday.

 

1765694041_MainCabinetnotrim.thumb.jpg.12cef41d3a73ccafbd0b1926a1d0ed83.jpg

 

2033855162_Maincabinetclampedtogether.thumb.jpg.1882cf99903b3deb663b1556c0177057.jpg

 

1102329849_cabinetclampedtogetherwithbackbox.thumb.jpg.355269066dcd2be2cd176d63b0fa456c.jpg

Edited by benird
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice progress benird! Looks like you got those glass slides fitting nicely there too ;)

 

Thanks. Yes fingers crossed I'm measured it all right but my calculations have the gap between the open part of the slides at about 608mm so that should allow for the 23.75" glass to fit snug but not too tight.

 

I've been measuring up the mounts for the playfield TV tonight hopefully I've measured that all right and will have it leveled and using the VESA mount.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. Yes fingers crossed I'm measured it all right but my calculations have the gap between the open part of the slides at about 608mm so that should allow for the 23.75" glass to fit snug but not too tight.

Sounds good. Gotta love it when a project comes together thanks to careful planning!

 

I've been measuring up the mounts for the playfield TV tonight hopefully I've measured that all right and will have it leveled and using the VESA mount.

Cool. Are you making a frame of some kind for the playfield tv to sit in that you can mount? Well actually... I'll wait and find out when you put it in the thread! :D

I unpacked my playfield screen the other day to test it, and looked at that IR sensor/light thing hanging off the bottom right corner and wondered if I will have to remove it somehow to fit the screen in the cab :huh: But I'm still a few weeks off of worrying about that - when I have some trim parts and are more sure of the dimensions then see how I go lol.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds good. Gotta love it when a project comes together thanks to careful planning!

 

 

Cool. Are you making a frame of some kind for the playfield tv to sit in that you can mount? Well actually... I'll wait and find out when you put it in the thread! :D

I unpacked my playfield screen the other day to test it, and looked at that IR sensor/light thing hanging off the bottom right corner and wondered if I will have to remove it somehow to fit the screen in the cab :huh: But I'm still a few weeks off of worrying about that - when I have some trim parts and are more sure of the dimensions then see how I go lol.

 

Last night I cut a couple of boards to sit along the side of the cab mounted on shelf brackets but I'm unsure if the brackets will fit in with the EZ Install Kit, the kit is due to arrive today so I'm hoping I get to see how it fits tonight. Then I'll have a front and rear support on the TV just for stability.

 

As for height of the TV, if I recall correctly you also have the 43" Soniq. If so it's 560mm tall (plus the IR sensor), the internal width of my table is 595mm so it fits easily with only about 18mm either side, I'm unsure how I'm going to mask that yet but I suspect I'll use some black vinyl that I bought for my arcade machine, but similarly given the narrow width I may just use 1" black tape. I also haven't seen how much will be exposed at the back of the cab but again I'm sure that will be easy to mask with a steel strip and tape/vinyl.

 

Mostly mounting the TV is going to be trial and error but I'm hoping to be able to use the VESA mount.

 

I'm also thinking of placing a block behind the Real Plunger since it is a little loose on the Williams plunger I've got. It fits snug but I've noticed it comes loose if nit tightened extremely tight.

 

Once I've got the TV mounts in place I'll take more photos and upload them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...