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Hankin 20 inch Cocktail Refurb


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I picked up this Hankin 20 inch cocktail off of @feeras in Feb this year. Don’t see them come up too often so didn’t hesitate to grab it. It’s in fair condition, needs a quite a bit of work cosmetically, but all least it’s all there.

 

http://i.imgur.com/yQK1ziX.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/v73K2yj.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/RY1tH05.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/vk2y7LX.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/vk2y7LX.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/hTzozJG.jpg

 

Was planning to put it away as a future project, have some major renos planned and bub no.2 on the way..... So 4 weeks later on a Sunday arvo I stripped it :lol

 

http://i.imgur.com/tF7Ab8M.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/XJoUhBa.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/PkgjsQt.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/GVmiSVl.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/QapdCTH.jpg

 

I want this to have the original look on the outside and luckily have all parts to do this. Internally, happy to reuse parts and update others as needed. The biggest issue for me was the water damaged/swollen MDF. I didn’t want to remake any panels, after a bit of research I settled on using wood hardener. The worst damage was on the base so it was a good place to test it. Firstly I pulled the layers of MDF off in the swollen areas until it was nearly level with the rest of the panel. Secondly I sponged a fair bit of the hardener on , not quite soaking it, did this twice with a gap of couple of days and left for a few days. Probably left more time than need between steps but I was in no hurry. The hardener did cause the MDF did swell a little bit but after setting it was probably 75% “less spongy”, so pulled a few more layers off gave it another coat and than a sand. I was happy with the result so went onto the rest of the cab. So I used the hardener on all cut edges, swollen and damaged MDF. Then builders bog to repair the chunks taken out the door and other damage. Sanded off all the vinyl that was on the cab and it ended up pretty good. I decided to go with paint as a finish as it would hid the imperfections, where vinyl would highlight them.

 

http://i.imgur.com/xHGuS3W.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/QSDpKAq.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/1Xb3eNY.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/mTDYIiZ.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/1QBV5sZ.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/Spl63UC.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/TsDuGRZ.jpg

 

Sent off parts for powder coating, glass clip, top hinges, coin box, CP bases, legs, speaker grille and coin mech surround. It would have taken me weeks just to clean the rust off of then myself, so was happy with $150 it cost and get them back in a couple of days. Would be interested to know how that price compares as it was my first time powder coating parts. Also ended replacing the original monitor as the chassis was shot, couldn’t easily find a replacement and then had no way to test the tube.

 

After a couple of orders came in I was ready to start to reassemble. Cleaned and tested the original switch, emi filter and transformer. Put in a new PSU, coin mech, speaker, fan, t moulding and a unused Jamma harness that came with the cab.

 

http://i.imgur.com/LfrayeJ.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/aF1xQQW.jpg

 

So next, I am waiting on a package from Noodleshirt . New control panels, Hankin glass border and a couple of Bomb Jack instruction cards!

Edited by poidapoida
fixed images
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Looking great. I can't wait to see it finished.

 

You asked me earlier this year what I would think the chances putting a few PCBs and a jamma switcher in one of these. I am going to stack two boards on top of each other on the door but without a switcher. If you had a smaller board you could probably fit it on top of the coin box.

 

As big as these look I was surprised to find out that the top is the same size a 14 inch LAI cocktail

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Great job, I wouldn't have the patience to do things like this these days so more power to you for resurrecting an Australian classic!

 

Thanks! I am doing this one as a keeper, but compared to the proper restoration threads they are the ones with patience.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got around to finishing off the wiring today and was hoping complete the t moulding but have hit a snag.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160706/9d4da32b7c47c50598eca893ad99f86b.jpg

 

The moulding on the right side was a bit loose on one end but was sorted by adding a strip of tape to the tongue and gluing it in. But the left hand side slot is totally stuffed. MDF panel is a bit swollen and the slot is now way to wide and spongy to hold the t moulding. I am thinking i may have to use contact adhesive and clamp each section in place as I go. Not confident it will look great so if anyone has any other suggestions it would be appreciated.

 

Sent from my SM-G800Y using Aussie Arcade mobile app

Edited by poidapoida
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Maybe you could just pack out the slot a bit with some thin packing wood or you could bog and harden up the swollen mdf and sand it back down where its swollen and then cut new slots for t moulding alot of work though

 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

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So went with gluing and clamping. Used Tarzan's Grip sparingly and clamped each section seperately. Turned out well except in one spot that I applied to uch pressure and the t-mould is flat. I alsoran around the edge of the mdf with a black nikko so the swollen mdf panel wouldn't be so obvious.

 

http://i.imgur.com/aL92QFR.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/i2mWFmt.jpg

 

 

Picked up the control panels that have been powder coated in crinkle finish.

 

http://i.imgur.com/d1lW9kQ.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/v8V7bi3.jpg

 

So have some art on the way from Noodlshirt. Repro CPOs, Bombjack instruction cards and Hankin vinyl glass sticker that should finish this off nicely.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got around to completing the Hankin today. I am really happy with the finished result.

 

That art came from @MamePatrol during the week. Looks good as usual especially the control panels.

 

http://i.imgur.com/lveQpDZ.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/aD6gECg.jpg

 

Attached the control panels and wired up the controls.

 

http://i.imgur.com/PIXXKva.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/KmMx5j0.jpg

 

It was the first time applying a vinyl decal and used the wet method for the glass underlay and had no issues. So time to put the top together. I was going to put Bomb Jack instruction cards in but in the end preferred the clean look so went with just the insert coin print.

 

BEFORE

http://i.imgur.com/5sdpglA.jpg

 

AFTER

http://i.imgur.com/z8nRY1r.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/DRfLMmk.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/mFGtr3s.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/1m1PJ8r.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/eOUmOmp.jpg

 

http://i.imgur.com/Qm1kjqX.jpg

 

Once I wire up a harness for Bomb Jack I'd like to fit that in with Time Pilot and play the hell out of those two games.

Edited by poidapoida
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Has come up a treat :023:

 

...been a long time since I played last and I too loved bomb jack and I could be wrong but he moves diagonally doesn't he?...curious to know did Hankin do control panel artwork for 8 way controls?

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can i ask about the top glass? Did you buy the glass then get the black outline printed on it?

 

I also have a 20 inch same as yours that ill restore.

 

Thanks for sharing your work

 

Mark

That's a vinyl sticker applied to the back of the glass. I gave measurements and a pic of a tabletop that i wanted to Noodleshirtand he made it up. So its not original but pretty close. And i just used the glass that was with the table as it was in good nick.

 

Sent from my SM-G800Y using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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  • 5 years later...

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