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LAI SEGA OutRun Restoration


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Thanks for the kind words. Yep that was it, covered in years of grime. Mine was a mess when I got it. But behind the years of dust was a great cab. Yes mine did have a tinted Perspex panel covering the screen. I guess that's why everything behind it was in pristine condition. The last pic is of the bezel and sticker as found behind the tinted screen. I hope this inspires you more.

out1.jpg.dfc25f3419385da738379878121f0e7d.jpg

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DSC00024.JPG.312a65aa703a6c4ca2b3adffb865c7ba.JPG

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Thanks for the kind words. Yep that was it, covered in years of grime. Mine was a mess when I got it. But behind the years of dust was a great cab. Yes mine did have a tinted Perspex panel covering the screen. I guess that's why everything behind it was in pristine condition. The last pic is of the bezel and sticker as found behind the tinted screen. I hope this inspires you more.

 

It's great to see some more of your restore, there are very little examples of an Australian OutRun in good condition. You did a great job with the machine for sure. A few questions -

 

Did you end up replacing your T-Moulding?

 

Your foot plates look great. Did you just metal polish them and re rivot?

 

Was there a SEGA Official sticker on the black inner screen monitor bezel like belowhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/7de3eb740dfd7089abcecbbbc191c14d.jpg

 

Did the monitor surround have one of these to attach the top section http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/0263375a419455716c59adb0774455b8.jpg

 

It's been a while so no worries if you can't recall.

 

Cheers, Sean

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Hi Sean, The metal work was just polished with alloy wheel cleaner, then re assembled . As for the sticker and bracket, I'm sorry but I don't recall. I will go back through some pics but I didn't document the whole restore. I did replace the T moulding but I wasn't happy with it. It was too shiny and didn't fit properly. The last LIA cab I restored I used the T moulding from Gamemasters. It is the original 20mm moulding and it fitted in the groove perfectly and was the correct width and not too shiny. This was the red moulding so I'm not sure if they have black.

 

I found a few more pics

out9.jpg.c62bf7c6d6104df510f6f92203d0ea2a.jpg

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out5.jpg.3d65cb4525d5aad7f83f4e4af82cd38c.jpg

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Hi Sean, The metal work was just polished with alloy wheel cleaner, then re assembled . As for the sticker and bracket, I'm sorry but I don't recall. I will go back through some pics but I didn't document the whole restore. I did replace the T moulding but I wasn't happy with it. It was too shiny and didn't fit properly. The last LIA cab I restored I used the T moulding from Gamemasters. It is the original 20mm moulding and it fitted in the groove perfectly and was the correct width and not too shiny. This was the red moulding so I'm not sure if they have black.

 

I found a few more pics

 

Hi Ray, thanks for sharing more photos. You did a great job on this machine mate. Did you paint the cab and control panel yourself it get someone to do it? Looks good. Also thanks for the heads up on the t-moulding too. I noticed the serial number on yours was only digits away from @getaway 's OutRun machine too.

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Hi Sean ,

I sprayed the control panel myself. I took the bezel down to our local Auto Barn auto store ( as it was in great original condition) and they colour matched it perfect. I was lucky as the manager of the paint section at our local store is an arcade fan , so he tries really hard to get it all right. They mixed up 1 spray can , which was enough to respray the edges of the bezel. (I filled up the screw holes that held on the tinted screen. ) and all of the control panel . Regards the T moulding, when you see the original stuff , the lug on the back is double the length and width of the crap stuff. It just taps in and stays in as it should.

DSC00002.thumb.JPG.e0ca9c553776ff2782bb30612db458af.JPG

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Hi Sean ,

I sprayed the control panel myself. I took the bezel down to our local Auto Barn auto store ( as it was in great original condition) and they colour matched it perfect. I was lucky as the manager of the paint section at our local store is an arcade fan , so he tries really hard to get it all right. They mixed up 1 spray can , which was enough to respray the edges of the bezel. (I filled up the screw holes that held on the tinted screen. ) and all of the control panel . Regards the T moulding, when you see the original stuff , the lug on the back is double the length and width of the crap stuff. It just taps in and stays in as it should.

 

Ray, The control panel came out great. Funny that your screen bezel was pretty much perfect and mine didn't even have one anymore. I wondered if you had filled the screw holes on the edge of the monitor bezel. Was there a inner black screen bezel on yours originally? And was there Perspex between the inner and outer screen bezel? Or did the LAI version just have that Outer tinted screen? Mine has none of this so I'm not sure on what was on the original.

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Hi Sean, Yes there was a black screen bezel. I will have a look through my gear and see if I kept the outer tinted screen. I know I gave the bezel to the guy who bought my cab. Just in case he wanted to put back in a CRT.
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LAI SEGA OutRun Restoration

 

Thanks Ray. I think I prefer it without the tinted outer screen, don't you?

 

Ive spent a few hrs today on woodwork again, filling, sanding and now painting the front and rear access doors. I used semi gloss paint that has built in primer.http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160423/2f69f54dd119c1d18d59229a578c83a5.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160423/c6a9cf32f08982019c6ef5632b238232.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160423/a6915cca16079e9aa74158445d3c10b0.jpg

I plan to mask the edges and re do the red too.

Edited by outrun86
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Wow. What a fantastic effort so far that steering assembly is beautiful now. I'm no fan of arcade games with a screen but I'll be following this thread keep up the great work

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 1 month later...

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160618/a463e7a3d3fdaf67c5b64e501877540f.jpg I'm currently spending a few hrs a week on this project. In the final stages of filling and sanding, nearly there.

Paints and artwork are ready to go.

Any suggestions on applying large side art? Should soapy water be used or just go for a dry application. I saw a video on eBay where someone clamped the art in place, and put a tube underneath and slowly applied moving the tube along underneath the art.

Any tips / suggestions welcome thanks.

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  • 3 weeks later...

LAI SEGA OutRun Restoration

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/9611df1021c00e06310a60f27c1739dc.jpg

Finally started to paint the cabinet last weekend. So far the black is done.

Also worked on cleaning up the foot plates using a metal wheel and drill, they came up real nice.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/4f254d5661398df42a5f4e0f2d60b4fd.jpg

I sourced a plastic control panel after months and months of looking on eBay for one. I picked it up on eBay Spain and it was shipped to a mate in the UK who also has a monitor bezel for me.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/39cdbfa5fc47d5e44f046cee6201066f.jpgThe area around the start button is damaged but this will be fixed up.

You can see below that the Spanish OutRun machine produced by Unidesa (licenced from SEGA Japan) has some variation to the UK/Aus CP.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/f6c9615b9f05ea9f19c13a60c79429fc.jpg

Edited by outrun86
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My mate works for a printer and he swears by the hinged method for large stickers. Having two people helps, one pulls while the other sticks with a sticker applicator. My stuff has worked well so far using that method. The soapy method I have used for the windows in the house, applying frosting, it is much more forgiving.

 

Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk

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My mate works for a printer and he swears by the hinged method for large stickers. Having two people helps, one pulls while the other sticks with a sticker applicator. My stuff has worked well so far using that method. The soapy method I have used for the windows in the house, applying frosting, it is much more forgiving.

 

Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks @redferatu, so two people using the dry method would be your choice? Right?

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The last time we did a full side art we used the dry hinged method. My wife and I managed it ok. We did it on a warm day. We had a few bubbles in it, but after a cool night the decal contracted and all the bubbles disappeared. Just take it slow and all will be ok.

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This game blew my mind when I first saw it 30 years ago & this thread's doing a similar job now! Great job @outrun86, really enjoying your restore. [emoji106]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

 

Thanks @carbonROD , it's a time / cash consumer but it's my favourite game so I want to make it the best I can. It's come a fair way but it's been a 10 month project so far [emoji33]

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LAI SEGA OutRun Restoration

 

Thanks @carbonROD , it's a time / cash consumer but it's my favourite game so I want to make it the best I can. It's come a fair way but it's been a 10 month project so far [emoji33]

 

Well worth the commitment of time. There were two pivotal arcade games for me growing up...Marble Madness in '84 then Out Run in '86! I've been lucky enough to track my Marble Madness down, but the search for an Out Run continues. Definitely worthy of the restoration effort! [emoji106]

 

Here's one still on location I found in Brooklyn U.S. back in 2012.

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160711/0fb8882b289bdee1f389f9b104ae04e1.jpg

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LAI SEGA OutRun Restoration

 

[emoji267][emoji594][emoji100][emoji267]...the OutRun restoration keeps on moving forward [emoji673]

 

....over the last few weekends I've been focusing on spray painting the black sections of the cab after completing sanding and filling. Here's a few pic of areas that were improved.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/2df39c44e49976de9f1ac4ab2bb14f83.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/b3f6198c4fcaf6208f2d7a9ae688fd67.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/5838eadb93f5f5c4da0edbefb3abc1c8.jpg

I used Dulux black satin paint and 2 and a half cans were used [emoji50] to try and minimise tiger stripes. If anyone can give any tips on better methods please share.

 

I've also picked up some plastics polish and had a go at improving the CP dials.... Initial removal and finished result

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/5f42ed208660a089a1f6ee9727bf8097.jpg

Several Cig burns were sanded and polishedhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/f924e6a4f86b4b476b2f9a65c747f09c.jpg

It generally looks loads better but one of the Cig burns had created a crack (last pic above). I can't be happy with this so there another one on the way from Spain (below/bottom image)

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/2be8a4b44a902d61ea819b630af1333b.jpg

For a bit of fun here's a projection of me and the wife if I ever get round to restoring a OutRun deluxe model

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160722/23907d4c2f2f478cd43c598336275388.jpg

Edited by outrun86
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LAI SEGA OutRun Restoration

 

The last time we did a full side art we used the dry hinged method. My wife and I managed it ok. We did it on a warm day. We had a few bubbles in it, but after a cool night the decal contracted and all the bubbles disappeared. Just take it slow and all will be ok.

 

Looks awesome @oldbyte . That's a large piece of side art!

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