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43" / 27" / 19" Project Build


Macca5007
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Well shifting focus from my earlier "places to start" questions posts here is the short start to my build thread.

 

Like many enthusiasts here I am trying to keep costs down as much as possible so it will be interesting to see how I go when the final costs are tallied. So I'm a late 40's pinball tragic soooo eager to be able to re-play some of the classic tables and try out the newer ones. Very inspired by the projects I've seen on the forums.

 

My actual progress thus far, other than collecting various bits and pieces for the project, has been to measure and cut the main pieces for the cabinet and backbox which you can see below - yes - I know it is rough. I don't have any real space, work benches, or even decent power tools so here is what I hope will motivate some people who think they can't start this sort of project - I cut almost all of these pieces all with a dirty old hand saw. Yes - it takes a little longer - but it still works.

 

I chose to simply drill and screw the boxes together for simplicity reasons - I haven't countersunk the holes and will be able to fill them - I'm not looking for perfection in the finished product but hopefully it will be presentable at the end.

 

You may also notice the blemishes on the 19mm MDF. That's because all of the board was free - it was lying around my Dad's place for ages as something we'd salvaged from someone who wanted it taken away - it had obviously been used as wall lining and the brown blemishes you can see are some hardened adhesive - I'll chisel and sand those away over time.

 

Thanks to all on the forum who've offered encouragement and advice - greatly appreciated.

 

One final piece of thanks - Stuzza - I stumbled across the artwork you've created and made available at VPForums - I have to say that it all really is very impressive and what a collection it is - the downsize is that it makes my mind spin when I try to think of what theme I should use for my cabinet one completed. But a big thanks!

Backbox.thumb.jpg.45a84cc97369cbe4ccbca5085b1932b6.jpg

Cabinet.thumb.jpg.95500b279360565fa81dd7a49c7fe358.jpg

 

Waiting for certain parts now to really make some progress and trying to work through the best way to mount the backglass 27" monitor - it is a perfect fit in the backbox without having to de-case but I am having a challenge mounting it - I would simply use some angle brackets and maybe a shelf but there is a set of fixed speakers at the bottom of the TV and a shelf would take up too much space where the speakers and DMD monitor have to go.

 

Cheers

 

Macca

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I thought I had an idea for you on mounting your backglass monitor, until I saw that the backbox has a fixed rear panel.

 

My suggestion would be to use a piece of MDF as a cross brace and drill holes in it to match the Vesa mounts on the back of your monitor (assuming it has Vesa mount points), then it's a simple matter of screwing the monitor to it and you're done. This would ideally work if the rear panel was removable/hinged, however in your case it's not so that would make it difficult.

 

I suppose it could still work if the brace was to go in vertically rather than horizontally, or if the back panel can be removed so the panel can be accessed from behind.

 

Please excuse my very rough hack up of your pic - I thought it would be easier to understand if I "drew" it for you:

maccapic.jpg.52957fe4ccf516051373e84f99cec6ce.jpg

 

I hope this helps!

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Thanks Chris and Brad - I have since removed the back panel and it is now in 2 sections which I'll take some images of in the next day or so and post (it is still rough though). There will be a narrower section at the top rear which will be fixed and then the main part of the rear panel will be on a set of internal hinges.

 

I hadn't thought about an off the shelf mount - just assumed that maybe the TV was a little large. When I get home I'll take a measurement to determine the distances between the several sets of holes in the back - but it really sounds promising.

 

Appreciate the picture - perfect!

 

Cheers

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I was planning to take a few pictures of the backbox over the weekend but I've been tinkering around so much with trying to mount the TV that it's now all in pieces again and I've been thinking about how to affix the plexi in front of the monitor now. My plan is to use the router with a straight bit to plunge a small channel in each side - is this the manner most people have used?

 

Another quick question. Much mention has been made of having hinged mechanism for the playfield TV. Are there any really good visual examples of where and how this has been done - I think I've found only one which requires a bolt through either side of the cabinet.

 

All advice appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Macca

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I was planning to take a few pictures of the backbox over the weekend but I've been tinkering around so much with trying to mount the TV that it's now all in pieces again and I've been thinking about how to affix the plexi in front of the monitor now. My plan is to use the router with a straight bit to plunge a small channel in each side - is this the manner most people have used?

 

Another quick question. Much mention has been made of having hinged mechanism for the playfield TV. Are there any really good visual examples of where and how this has been done - I think I've found only one which requires a bolt through either side of the cabinet.

 

All advice appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Macca

 

mounting the playfield so it pivots can be as simple as mounting an MDF panel to its Vesa mounts then hinging it to a cross brace mounted inside the cabinet. Put another cross brace at the front of the backing panel with a couple of latches so you can lock it in place. :)

 

For something a little more elaborate you could do something similar to what @angus68 shows us in his build thread:

http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/74686-39-5-quot-29-quot-15-6-quot-virtual-pinball-project-this-could-take-awhile?p=926614#post926614

 

Either way you shouldn't need to put bolts thru the sides of the cabinet.

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Gradual Progress

 

A little bit of progress over the weekend - had about an hour - thought I had more planned but a mate dropped around unexpectedly. :-)

 

Cut through the top of the cabinet for the DMD monitor to recess it down (the backbox is only roughly placed up there to align the cutouts). Also routed the groove into the sides of the backbox to take the plexi.

20160221_114144.thumb.jpg.f886db70c1c11c5784e653bf6e388800.jpg

 

Roughed in the coin door - need to find the right bolts to affix it properly.

20160221_125625.thumb.jpg.291a8d61bc6ee2b2a223ce2261937eeb.jpg

 

Got halfway through cutting the 4 internal corner pieces to affix the legs and sadly ran out of time. :-(

 

Cheers

 

Macca

20160221_114144.thumb.jpg.0665589bb45f5feaba69cfeeac989515.jpg

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Hi Guys,

 

A question to the community if I may - I'm not quite there yet but am starting to think about the final stages of the physical build even though my "to do" list on the project is still large.

 

Are there some concrete / firm specifications for the playfield glass that I can take to a glazier and does anyone know a good source / supplier in Brisbane - as there may be a slight discrepancy to the size of the widebody I have presumed the best way to go will be having a custom piece cut and delivered?

 

Cheers

 

Macca

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You could also consider using clear acrylic. It would be a bit cheaper than safety/toughened glass and arguably safer. All the virtual cabs I've done so far have used acrylic.

 

 

It is harder to clean than glass though... I cut a piece of acrylic to size for my backbox, and it doesn't clean near as readily as the glass in the playfield.

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You could also consider using clear acrylic. It would be a bit cheaper than safety/toughened glass and arguably safer. All the virtual cabs I've done so far have used acrylic.

 

Thanks Chris - what sort of feedback have you received on the acrylic solution and how does the costs stack up comparatively? Do you have the acrylic cut to size from the supplier?

 

Cheers

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It is harder to clean than glass though... I cut a piece of acrylic to size for my backbox, and it doesn't clean near as readily as the glass in the playfield.

I will admit that acrylic is a bit harder to clean, mainly due to static which makes it attract dust and lint like you wouldn't believe. Adding a bit of plastic cleaner to the surface helps keep it clean and also reduce static.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Thanks Chris - what sort of feedback have you received on the acrylic solution and how does the costs stack up comparatively? Do you have the acrylic cut to size from the supplier?

 

Cheers

None, which is typical as nobody ever contacts you to say something is good - only that it's broken! Cost of 4.5mm thick acrylic is about half that of toughened glass with arrised edges.

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I will admit that acrylic is a bit harder to clean, mainly due to static which makes it attract dust and lint like you wouldn't believe. Adding a bit of plastic cleaner to the surface helps keep it clean and also reduce static.

 

Yeah, the static is mad ! I've found I just can't keep particles off it. I'll try that solution you mentioned though, thanks.

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Yeah, the static is mad ! I've found I just can't keep particles off it. I'll try that solution you mentioned though, thanks.

It does lessen a little over time, but it's still an issue. Just make sure you DO NOT USE WINDOW CLEANER! Some brands will react with acrylic and make it go cloudy.

 

Apparently a very small amount of car polish helps to cut down on static, but I've not tried it myself.

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Inching forward with progress

 

Another small window of time on Sunday with the project.

 

Managed to finish cutting and affixing the support blocks for the legs inside the cabinet. Found that the leg bolts were quite short so had to dig out the spade bit of recess them. Mucked the alignment of the rear right leg so have to go back and adjust that slightly.

2032050196_CabLegSupports.thumb.jpg.39482f1c8b9f13f24b3dd012e0f155af.jpg

 

Here is a shot with the legs attached. They are second hand and not in the best of condition. They were sprayed a chrome colour but rust had come through. I have attacked it with a scourer so far but at least one of the legs has severe flaking at the top down to the base metal.

 

I'll take a shot later and ask for confirming advice but I am thinking maybe the best bet is to paint them out black? Shame really.

 

1339018119_CabLegsAffixed.thumb.jpg.ad8c20aa95c0c38e261babf478bb85ce.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Macca

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This is the state of the worst of the legs. Recommendations to treat?

 

Cheers

Get a wire brush attachment for your drill and clean them up with that, then if required treat them with rust remover/converter and repaint. You may want to stump up for a new set of bolts as well.

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Get a wire brush attachment for your drill and clean them up with that, then if required treat them with rust remover/converter and repaint. You may want to stump up for a new set of bolts as well.

 

Cheers - I figured that with the rust being so deep it was going to be a case of treat and repaint. I haven't heard of anything paint-wise that will give me that original polished chrome look so I'm thinking black unless anyone else out there has any recommendations.

 

:unsure

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Cheers - I figured that with the rust being so deep it was going to be a case of treat and repaint. I haven't heard of anything paint-wise that will give me that original polished chrome look so I'm thinking black unless anyone else out there has any recommendations.

 

:unsure

 

This may be of some help:

http://www.hammerite.com.au/metaltype-specific/chrome/

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  • 2 weeks later...

More build progress

 

Well I have been a bit quiet over the past week - very little time on my pet project but as bits and pieces come in and I work through the finer points of putting things together I am inching forward.

 

No questions today just a couple of pictures.

 

I did end up modifying the rear panel of the backbox so that there is a narrow fixed upper section and a lower section that is hinged to allow rear access to the backglass main tv. This is a shot of the upper section with the ventilation holes (yep one is slightly out of alignment but that's rushing for you!).

20160320_112657.thumb.jpg.b8b353ff63c730ab75e9a87a52353c74.jpg

 

The next image is a view of the acrylic panel (with protecting sheeting on still) for the backglass tv.

20160320_112424.thumb.jpg.3947edf5d9c7bce4ea864fad74d4bb80.jpg

 

The final shot is a rear view of the DMD / Speaker Panel cover. I thought some might find this interesting as I was searching for a simple, aesthetically nice look for the speaker holes without the expense of actual speaker covers themselves (which I couldn't seem to find easily anyway. So I looked and found on ebay this cuttable plastic sheet that goes over PC fans - I could have screwed it in but I've simply used cloth tape instead. Anyway it works well - I'll take a picture when it is up so you can see the full effect - cheap at $1.79 delivered.

20160320_112403.thumb.jpg.001bb638f6a74b92e236be5f0de0a032.jpg

 

Cheers

 

Macca

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Greetings again. Looking for currebt advice and comments on the old chestnut on playfield angle. Have a 178 degree viewing angle on TV. Some pictures have the TV laying dead flat whilst others have it aligned to the angle of the side rails. Any thoughts or advice please?

 

The deeper examples seem to cater for an led light panel at the back which i won't have.

 

I know i could experiment but i still haven't run the pic and software as yet and want to keep the electronics away from dust whilst putting it all together.

 

Cheers

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The angled at the back is to give an appearance of depth to the playfield but you will need to cater for potential viewing angle issues. Mine is aligned with the side rails but I have a minipin and the depth "trick" would not have been very effective on mine. Ultimately as you suspect you really need to try both and see which suits your situation.

 

Brad

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