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I will be interested to see how you go as the viewing angle is not as good as a crt.

 

Not true...... crisper , clearer, and very good angles on decent LCD's. Much better to play on than grainy old CRT's

The CRT camp will be all over me for that comment.... who cares, "I drink" don't waste your time.

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Not true...... crisper , clearer, and very good angles on decent LCD's. Much better to play on than grainy old CRT's

The CRT camp will be all over me for that comment.... who cares, "I drink" don't waste your time.

 

Once again, the aussie arcade scene...:lol

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I only use CRT, but my video collection is dedicated cabs from the late 70's to early 80's, plus quite a few vector games that MUST be CRT. I sure know that if someone asked me what type of monitor to put in a game they were building, or just wanted to play games on I'd advise LCD over CRT all day long. LCD sure has come a long way, and viewing angles are not a problem these days.

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

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Some of the Aussie Arcade scene. Plenty of us still use CRTs in every machine.

 

I am not against CRT's being used by those who like them and know what they are all about, and want authenticity

in their builds. BUT, if it is so important to be original, why do a lot of the same people with the CRT bug, put comparisons

to the antique car buffs up as an argument, and then use micro switches and modern buttons in their builds. Open finger

contacts and metal mounting frames were original to those older machines !!! Wouldn't it be less confusing for newbies to

cut their teeth on a simpler build first and get a reasonable result. Then once they have the dreaded bug, go for a more

complicated rebuild.

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I am not against CRT's being used by those who like them and know what they are all about, and want authenticity

in their builds. BUT, if it is so important to be original, why do a lot of the same people with the CRT bug, put comparisons

to the antique car buffs up as an argument, and then use micro switches and modern buttons in their builds. Open finger

contacts and metal mounting frames were original to those older machines !!! Wouldn't it be less confusing for newbies to

cut their teeth on a simpler build first and get a reasonable result. Then once they have the dreaded bug, go for a more

complicated rebuild.

 

I think the line needs to be drawn between enthusiasts and LCD for commercial use.

 

The guys who are into CRT can appreciate the benefits of using LCD on site. The silly arguments arise because it's usually 5 pages in when the OP declares the machine he is converting is going on site.

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I am not against CRT's being used by those who like them and know what they are all about, and want authenticity

in their builds. BUT, if it is so important to be original, why do a lot of the same people with the CRT bug, put comparisons

to the antique car buffs up as an argument, and then use micro switches and modern buttons in their builds. Open finger

contacts and metal mounting frames were original to those older machines !!! Wouldn't it be less confusing for newbies to

cut their teeth on a simpler build first and get a reasonable result. Then once they have the dreaded bug, go for a more

complicated rebuild.

 

I couldn't agree more! Newbies need a game that works, not one that's failing every second day due to an old monitor that needs a major re-build. A new LCD, power supply and 60 in 1, and they are set. And if they do want a CRT, grab one of Joey's chassis's for reliability.

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

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The viewing angle (actually measured by a testing laboratory) on the LG LCDs I use in the Hankin tables we build have a GREATER "usable" viewing angle with LESS distortion than most (if not all) CRTs.
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I have no issues at all using LCD monitors on a Candy cabs and all my buyers of mine prefer LCD due to weight.

Boils down to whatever the customer wants which they are paying the dollars.Ive seen a lot on other forums that people are converting a lot of Candy Cabs to LCD to play HD games.

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I am not against CRT's being used by those who like them and know what they are all about, and want authenticity

in their builds. BUT, if it is so important to be original, why do a lot of the same people with the CRT bug, put comparisons

to the antique car buffs up as an argument, and then use micro switches and modern buttons in their builds. Open finger

contacts and metal mounting frames were original to those older machines !!! Wouldn't it be less confusing for newbies to

cut their teeth on a simpler build first and get a reasonable result. Then once they have the dreaded bug, go for a more

complicated rebuild.

 

For site LCD is fine. Most people don't know any better. Those other items you listed are improvements, that is fine too.

 

For someone genuinly into arcade games though LCD's are not an improvement over CRT's. It's just not true. Full stop. The games were not designed to work with them so they look off.

 

Wrong aspect ratio

Smudgy image because no scan lines

lag

Doesn't have the bloom effect of a CRT etc

 

You say LCD's are more reliable? Lets see how many are still running in 20 years like my Nanao.

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You say LCD's are more reliable? Lets see how many are still running in 20 years like my Nanao.

 

Probably about the same as there are of your Nanao - I have dumped more of them because they were not worth fixing than I can remember.

 

I fully understand where a collector or enthusiast is coming from wanting an CRT but to say they are somehow superior to LCD is simply not true. It doesn't stack up no matter how you look at the specs or even the picture.

 

Maybe people are only looking at cheapo PC monitors and not the commercial type screens I (and many others) use???

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I think if you are running HD stuff or dreamcast in a cab then LCD is great especially IPS as viewing angles and colours are good.

 

Running cps1/2, neogeo etc in a candy with an LCD looks like crap to me, the graphics just look terrible/wrong, each to their own though.

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I run CRT as I run all oldschool 15khz stuff. If you want to run later model stuff, LCDs can be great, particularly for things like Naomi and Model 2. I also agree with the whole 'joe public' mentality of LCDs. However, for the arcade enthusiast, CRT will always be the way to go, as it was always the way it was meant to be played. Edited by namastepat
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CRT to LCD

 

I run CRT as I run all oldschool 15khz stuff. If you want to run later model stuff, LCDs can be great, particularly for things like Naomi and Model 2. I also agree with the whole 'joe public' mentality of LCDs. However, for the arcade enthusiast, CRT will always be the way to go, as it was always the way it was meant to be played.

 

Eventually the CRT will go the way of steam but with inception. In other words you can't fix a dead tube, you have to get another one until....they're GAWN.

 

 

Jimmy D

BTW, the CRT is where its at.

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I am not against CRT's being used by those who like them and know what they are all about, and want authenticity

in their builds. BUT, if it is so important to be original, why do a lot of the same people with the CRT bug, put comparisons

to the antique car buffs up as an argument, and then use micro switches and modern buttons in their builds. Open finger

contacts and metal mounting frames were original to those older machines !!! Wouldn't it be less confusing for newbies to

cut their teeth on a simpler build first and get a reasonable result. Then once they have the dreaded bug, go for a more

complicated rebuild.

 

I take your point here, however I think the difference between types of microswitches is a difference that is far more subtle than the display used. And given that people are often owning/building cabs for nostalgia, it comes down to what creates the experience that will bring on that feeling of familiarity. When I remember playing arcade machines in my younger years, I remember very clearly what the display looked like, and there is a very large difference for me between having a CRT and LCD. However I have no specific memories with regards to whether the buttons clicked or not, or how they felt, that's just not something I took notice of. I took notice of what the buttons looked like (concave topped) and I took notice of the joysticks (almost always MCA), but button feel is not something that was retained in my memory. If it was, then I would attempt to get the right kind of buttons.

 

I guess what I'm saying is, it just comes down to what the individual values, and that will differ a lot between people.

 

The other big issue is LCD size. I'd be prepared to consider LCD for a cocktail cab or an earlier upright that has a small screen (with some tinted glass and rendering effects I think the difference would be pretty small), but once you get into the 90s (which is when I played arcades the most) the screen sizes were often around 60cm. You just can't get 4:3 LCDs that big, and putting a widescreen lcd in a cab that's built for a 60cm CRT is guaranteed to look inauthentic. Surely this is the biggest and most obvious shortcoming of LCDs.

 

The fact that I was a kid when I played arcades makes me even less willing to go with a smaller screen size because to my child's eyes the screen seemed massive at the time, and playing on a small screen just doesn't convey the same "in your face" experience with massive sprites that I recall.

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