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Astro City - refurb tech questions etc


drguild
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Instead of posting multiple questions / posts ill use this for my technical stuff.

 

First thing I noticed is the inside of the shell is very rough and that It needed a good turpentine clean with a cloth to get rid of dust attacked to the inside, but as it was rough it was hard to clean due to friction and scraping.

 

So does anyone a product to spray over the inside so its a nice finish for future cleaning?

 

The inside may need some touchup light spray black on a few places then to smooth it all over for future wiping.

 

Overall the cab is in decent condition, I have a worklog on another forum here, which is publicly viewable there's already loads of images and I'd rather not have to post everything twice. Also some questions there most I know about, but feel free to chime in here with answers or solutions.

 

Basically using this one for more technical stuff as the other forum I doubt would get the traffic to answer them.

 

So firstly I'm interested in really smoothing the inside by spraying something over it so its no longer rough and easy to clean.

 

I also have a Megatouch 2008 system that came with the cabinet not working, but seems the motherboard has died and the system won't work swapping the hdd into a working system I have here. I also have all the components on that.

 

I imaged the HDD before testing it as the boot device,

 

Anyone know if its possible to get the touch glass / controller working stand alone?

 

These are the questions for now.

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I’ve mounted a micro switch using 2-part epoxy on an Astro City Panel with success. The key is letting it set for a couple of days and making sure it’s held tight while setting.
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Someone suggested Sikaflex industrial, I got the the 252 model elastic one with high strength so I will be doing that soonish.

Will take the advice of letting it sit clamped for a couple days before working on it.

 

I am starting to put the cabinet back together as well as do other projects and have some images.

 

Cabinet is home which is great.

 

MVIMG_20210717_145908-01.thumb.jpeg.86657ac91df2ea07f205209965c1f60d.jpeg

 

Started cleaning metals.

 

MVIMG_20210725_133507-01.jpg.01940abb220bdf7a8e904f687844cbf5.jpg

MVIMG_20210718_231547-01.jpg.c794d2564788d37c1a3892d6c706a582.jpg

 

Found the coin box has the KONAMI 2003-2013 logo on it.

 

MVIMG_20210724_185150-01.jpg.84c0c25201521eebbf813cb585c559a3.jpg

 

I got a speaker system Logitech z906 after looking and thinking about all the options there were, I wanted Dolby digital audio for my ps2 and PC and surround for games that support it.

I got a second hand control panel module coming to hack up to integrate into the cabinet so I can remove the sub unit as needed and have the speaker system usable outside the cabinet for whatever.

 

z906-feature-1-desktop.thumb.jpg.fd136fd52dc2176e25124a522da9712e.jpg

z906-feature-3.jpg.7874c50a3fcdfbd87191da2d46613b19.jpg

 

I need to figure out what 3 inch 8cm speakers to put in the cab as I don't want to hack up the Logitech ones and they would be too big as it was the speakers that come with the system are 67W 8ohm so I can use some advice on what speakers to get for the cabinet.

Also where I am going to put the centre speaker any ideas?

 

I also got some green speaker wire for the rears to match aesthetics.

 

MVIMG_20210721_150510-01.thumb.jpg.1cdf5d03fd0feeb3456a8ca0d97e7570.jpg

 

And I put replacement wheels on the cabinet today with more build coming soon as I'm now awaiting some foam seal strip to come for the panels.

 

MVIMG_20210725_152403-01.jpg.40cfe4c5ae31c000ade8e6622214cf96.jpg

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I'm slowly building more and have a lot of little extras coming I will show later as the build goes on.

 

I am in discussion with a manufacture about a production run of a 2L16B panel.

These panels are based of the Sega Virtual Stick Pro for the Saturn (currently retailing for 1k AUD) and are the newer 8 button layouts seen in all modern fight sticks.

I worked with Franco from Arcade Otaku using the Virtua Stick Pro and SlagCoin templates to make the cad file years ago and the panel will be the closest one you can get to a official panel.

 

This build has been super slow so never got around to using it,.

Looking around no-one really has the ability to make these panels as a one off, talking to SanStarGame the minimum for a custom CAD file is 50 orders, I suggested to June we could do a public run of these panels which she has agreed and is organising a pre order listing now I can link around.

 

Once I get the link within the week, I will post here and encourage anyone that wants one to order, if we can get it news posted and linked around to get the 50 that would be great.

 

For a panel with artwork should be about $100AU delivered which is cheap competed to second hand 2L12B panels.

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Posted (edited)

The panel can now be preordered from Stan Star Game for $90.81AUD delivered with or without separate artwork, slightly cheaper without,

We need to reach a combined total of 50 orders before the panel can be made and continued to be sold, you can just order 1 of them.

 

You don't need to finish with payment till we have all the orders needed.

 

https://www.sanstarltd.com/products/...control-panel-

 

Feel free to grab one for your candy and other cabinets, fightsticks share around news post it etc.

 

1720564653_sanstar-dr.jpg.9149ba6e40d91e369f40d8c7fcfdf3cd.jpg

Edited by drguild
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The panel can now be preordered from Stan Star Game for $90.81AUD delivered with or without separate artwork, slightly cheaper without,

We need to reach a combined total of 50 orders before the panel can be made and continued to be sold, you can just order 1 of them.

 

You don't need to finish with payment till we have all the orders needed.

 

https://www.sanstarltd.com/products/...control-panel-

 

Feel free to grab one for your candy and other cabinets, fightsticks share around news post it etc.

 

[ATTACH=JSON]{"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tsanstar - dr.jpg Views:\t0 Size:\t119.1 KB ID:\t2223775","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"2223775","data-size":"full"}[/ATTACH]

 

Great initiative. I recommend posting in the Candy Cab Appreciation Thread for maximum eyeballs.

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/forum/arcade/video-arcade/94045-candy-cab-appreciation-thread-i-want-candy/page55#post2223060

 

 

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Great initiative. I recommend posting in the Candy Cab Appreciation Thread for maximum eyeballs.

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/forum/arcade/video-arcade/94045-candy-cab-appreciation-thread-i-want-candy/page55#post2223060

 

 

Will do talking with June orders can be unpaid for up to a month so hope we can make the quota.

If not I have a local place that can do it but will be more expensive.

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I checked the website. What happens when you go through to the cart? Does it take payment? Is the idea of these to be able to play games with 8 buttons? I’m not across what games required that on that era of cab. Cheers.

 

The website will try to do a PayPal transaction to pay now but you can cancel out of for now and order will retain.

 

As for 8 button games mainly console specific and newer games like if you wanted to use it on emulators and consoles like the Saturn, Dreamcast, PS2, PS3, XBox, Switch PC etc etc.

 

You can get Brook Fighting Boards and other ones to use on consoles.

 

All modern fightsticks have the 8 button layout like madcatz, hori etc plus some other buttons.

 

With a panel like this you could use it on your cab then use it standalone for a PC or console or make a modern arcade machine yourself using this panel.

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Made quite a few purchases recent about $1000 spent not including the control panel and more purchases will come, I hope you guys can buy a CP for yourself as we need 50 orders in order for me to get one also.

Will be showing stuff soonish.

 

Next Saturday I am planning to power the system up even if the wiring is not installed just to check things out.

I will be streaming on Twitch and my discord to also chat to anyone watching.

 

Twitch URL: is https://www.twitch.tv/drguild

Discord join link is: https://discord.gg/mk2axStVKq

 

I have a rough time I am thinking but will refine it over the week.

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Posted (edited)

The power on is on hold for now as I need to redo the input circuit and cable sleeve it and already planning quite a bit in other areas.

Work has picked up massively the last week here is some stuff.

I have built a bit of the cab, refoamed the monitor housing and back access which may not have had foam on it originally.

Before and after cp hinge cleaning.

MVIMG_20210805_161313-01.jpg.e2f633e54c4826c372d984b1646aa4d3.jpg

MVIMG_20210806_005336-01.thumb.jpg.bc2d468c0efe80d83d3842b8ec8ddc63.jpg

And after the coin mech area cleaning.

MVIMG_20210807_184624-01.thumb.jpg.9628c3e317fba44e83a9807e73d48414.jpg

I'm even rebuilding the actuator housing at the bottom from plastic to metal by modifying one from a AU mech I bought.

MVIMG_20210809_164152-01.jpg.c0e423bef48922c987641d9f51c34743.jpg

Awaiting screws and nuts before doing more work on this.

 

THE ADMIN BOX IS BONDED!!!,
Someone recommended Sikaflex industrial and looks to have done the job, I have test pulled it a few times without success.
I am awaiting a sandpaper kit to clean it up so the underneath looks neat.

MVIMG_20210809_130631-01.jpg.49d1af1586bdd543628739227a2ea5f2.jpg

And here is a top view of how its going to look with the coin slot cover, needs to be cleaned from dirt from working you can see.
How I am going to open and close the admin panel I have no idea so any ideas?

MVIMG_20210809_165222-01.jpg.b85e7cf96b3796d29c125d1a2451ca08.jpg

Also will be fixing the coin meter led that's burnt out.

MVIMG_20210807_211853-01.thumb.jpg.76d82c6b17146b40bdbe735c729941bc.jpg

Been doing lots of purchases also, cable sleeving buttons sticks inquiring about leds now.

Here is the Jamma harness laid out and detangled after all the cable ties were cut.
Has freezer bag twisty ties on it temporary till the sleeving arrives. 

MVIMG_20210808_234031-01.thumb.jpg.d3a92a7618850ea2e52eecdd22f0b587.jpg

Purchased some extra spare artwork linked around in threads for the panel, the lady from the place I bought it has taken feedback on board about it.

One piece had a line through it.
You can see that the protective plastic is still on the artwork in all photos.

MVIMG_20210812_161228-01.thumb.jpg.c1760a0806aa35e33e5bf7e80e5aec16.jpgMVIMG_20210812_154444-01.jpg.5c435936f04980aec91ff08fed4011c6.jpgMVIMG_20210812_154358-01.jpg.e1d7891472d8d23eee0d729e3f89ca61.jpg

Also got a cheap Pandora CX for initial testing as well as speaker plugs for the surrounds to make them connect neatly.

MVIMG_20210810_160914-01.thumb.jpg.b599d8f368e1fbd00e5e8ce35cbda062.jpg

MVIMG_20210812_163357-01.jpg.28e5d30e0ca8c99c8e3a6138a4d78159.jpg

Here is the contents of the SDCard.

498971729_pandorasd.png.a0626d6701c3c96d39ff5c7c9dcbf6fc.png

pandorastat.thumb.png.c069e58524a1b88a43d3452694d6abb8.png

And the cabinet is starting to actually come together with being rebuilt.

MVIMG_20210807_184339-01.thumb.jpg.d8428aa44de5080bbce8183723d2b123.jpg

MVIMG_20210807_185820-01.thumb.jpg.3715590ac827ca2c5cf7052f46a797a7.jpg

So a lot of stuff being done and purchased and the admin box is bonded and can move to the next stage.

Edited by drguild
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Posted (edited)

Been Speaking to June and she making sure things are improving with their company.
Will keep you guys updated.

Quote

Thank you for giving me more feedbacks, I have gone through all the comments.

It's ok to reprint the artwork, I have ask my co-worker to follow up chat with the factory.  I will keep you update tomorrow.

The current artwork why with cheap price, is because from big quantity order. And most of the customer always focus on the price, so did not customized our own.

Tomorrow or the day after tomorrow we have some customized artwork back, I will take picture to show you the quality.  But it's acrylic material, not soft.

 

Edited by drguild
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Posted (edited)

I'm always doing a bit of work nowadays on the arcade cabinet and research on various things.

More packages arrived buffing pads, Jamma edge connector protectors, 2 Sanwa sticks, CGA/EGA/VGA to HDMI adaptor which I can use to capture the input going to the arcade monitor on my PC.

MVIMG_20210813_131841-01.jpg.32d92eda7533a00892144ddbad590727.jpg

I started repainting pieces, I de-branded the Jamma protector from the factory name, filed out the back a little will do more when I sleeve the Jamma harness and painted it also letting them dry for a few days.

I'll label the protectors with a D11 label maker I have

MVIMG_20210814_154515.thumb.jpg.afb58ee79cea95ea75199d632a126ee1.jpg

The protector won't fully close at the front but its no issue as its really tight as is, I'll just hot glue around it once I am done with putting it together.

Should I put paper or something inside so the hot glue only will penetrate that far as I don't want to glue to the pins or wires.

MVIMG_20210813_150915-02.jpg.029c8dcd060f308f33dd643d38047d27.jpg

I cleaned the smaller metals.

These are the tops of the carry indents, front cover cp catch and the original Astro City billboard holder brackets (not mentioned in the NAC manual obviously)

MVIMG_20210813_230834-01.thumb.jpg.f8b07ddfd2ba89221b0e41535a88afda.jpg

I also tested the coin meter with my PSU at 5V it works.

And I found replacement mini lamps on eBay $5.50 gets you 20 of them they are 6V 3mm for the original Astro City meter, which is what this will use so if your meter lamps are bunt out here are replacements, they carry multiple types so double check what your meter uses.

For casual usage these will last a lifetime, wonder how often the lamps burn out at a active parlour.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20x-Miniature-3-4-5mm-6-12-24V-Lamp-Light-Bulb-Edison-Incandescent-Filament-Rice-/353246642981?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Screenshot_2021-08-14-22-31-37-706_com_ebay.mobile.thumb.jpg.286f05ce97175f117f0a65656e8cfd97.jpg

Some people think I am being too complex and should keep it simple the build.

In the end this will be really simple to use and be able to use all monitor frequencies as well as other cool things and be really neat but it takes work to make that happen and I am progressing on it and have other cool plans like the master switchboard and consolidated plug breakout area etc I need to fabricate still once the system is core built which I am working on now. 

Edited by drguild
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A little work today and a few accidents also due to how I've been I think 😞

Firstly I got the banner marquee out and had it on the floor next to my desk wrapped in a cloth and as I moved I accidently stepped on it a minor crack in the side so not happy.

You can get refubs with mostly the original colours so mby if I cant refurb mine to the colours I'll get that.

MVIMG_20210815_131224-01.thumb.jpg.76ec68a5035d0ade8ccf09a96e1c6c4d.jpg

I looked up colours and its a mix what people are using to touch up areas the common two are LB9A or RAL 9002, getting the Volkswagen Genuine Paint Touch Up Pencil Candy White/Сandyweiss LB9A/B4/B9A to try here.

Came across a project that in some ways makes my refurb amateurish but in other ways makes my refurb stand out with other things.

I installed the banners and put a led strip behind to test.

Anyone know the best way to touch up the scratched black areas on the banner?, wasn't like this originally when I got it but happened when taking it off to clean it.

MVIMG_20210815_163049-01.jpg.0e6e9acdf4ec60461c43a3b0d845919a.jpg

My depression has flared up to the point I'm starting to feel a little illogical and out of it at times.
Also I am finding it super hard to cope living alone and not having local friends etc, I have issues with people wanting to know and put back the effort with me on their own that it annoys me if I have to most of the work knowing people.

I just want this pain to end and go away that at times I question is there any other way than going down that certain road which would end the constant emotional social pain I go through.
I am not going to do anything, but its on my mind a little as I don't want to live with no friends and being alone and feeling like no-one cares about me that they won't make a effort to know and include me themselves.

If anyone is in Perth I can use something, someone, new friends whatever to help as I feel I am going to get worse with this unless something changes.

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Will have a big update soon when I can get around to it as work hasn't stopped, did slow down for a bit while I was sick with the flu.

My other thread on another site is more up to date but will update this one soon.

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Posted (edited)

Time for a update.

I need to think about how to raise the height of the sub to clear the coin box for the air hole any ideas?
Here its just sitting on a small toolbox not ideal, placement is fine.
MVIMG_20210817_234150-01.jpeg.5ff8873da15bf9b4405e7f26c2493895.jpeg

Was getting some software going while I was sick with the flu a couple months or so back.MVIMG_20210829_134954.thumb.jpg.9f22f7fa1f8dedb4eda476dc9ae76ef6.jpg

Different purchases arrived also and more since these images.
MVIMG_20210824_164458-01.jpeg.cab0e265e7cf6bee590bc2b815fcacb8.jpegMVIMG_20210906_203633-01.jpeg.8293c746655570d190deef4d67dcda92.jpegMVIMG_20210907_152807-01.jpeg.489b1373606e2e012f4d6fdc8828cf73.jpeg

I hit up alberto1225 from Arcade Otaku about his custom panels out of interest and got one a 2L16B panel in the mail and built it up.
MVIMG_20210909_160143-01.jpeg.de7ef3f35f2d9111cb19cd174b25c417.jpeg

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Its temporary wired until I let the LED kit then ill do it properly and sleeve the CP wires.MVIMG_20210915_185451-01.jpeg.3730239bbac446173437334dc5ca852c.jpeg

So what happened with Sanstar?
There wasn't enough people for one and they had various ideas about a acrylic artwork overlay which wouldn't be suitable for my build etc so in the end things didn't go through.

I also went to the West Coast Pinball Festival here in WA, if you saw me I was probably the awkward guy wandering around playing the games badly and watching a lot of people.MVIMG_20210912_101230-01.jpeg.4673980a907a07544b8f9ff346facb5d.jpegMVIMG_20210912_140800-01.thumb.jpeg.dda0eac953c8fc246d0df9c77ba660ab.jpegMVIMG_20210912_102930-01.thumb.jpeg.2d32230bac2d95386c00b898fce2750f.jpeg

Also I really got into cable sleeving and have done more since these images the Jamma harness is now done.
As well I decided to redo the entire harness after messing up the original edge connector and added extra wires for breakouts, power and service, coin, tilt etc for the admin panel, need to do a DigiKey run for more connectors for them.

The second image is single connector CP breakout to the Amp's I am making using a DB44 connector.
MVIMG_20210911_162535-01.thumb.jpeg.605e6345534b5640a2219de49251b42e.jpegMVIMG_20210915_185338-01.jpeg.d4dce8aefa2a817160cca16e662d52b2.jpeg

As well tried my hand at Street Fighter V with a I-PAC2 and I suck bad.
Later I will look at getting a Brook Ultimate Fighting Board but the I-Pac2 will do for PC games until I want to play onconsoles. MVIMG_20210917_175816-02.jpg.614d1ae0d6998944ff3ea42f95e9837c.jpg

Also got the speakers three FaitalPRO 3fe25 these weren't cheap but sound great,
Wondering where the best place is for the centre speaker any ideas?
Could do under the cp facing down but id need to cut a hole etc.
MVIMG_20210916_134813-01.jpegMVIMG_20210916_134852-01.jpeg3FE25_response_4.gif

I have also been building up the new back panel.
MVIMG_20210922_135057-01.thumb.jpg.ac1b9406476610ef00ab8e71e6c043e0.jpgMVIMG_20210922_140424-01.thumb.jpg.c6cbbdf72b31d9d206a0a8038ff52826.jpg

I was brainstorming about how to switch between a I-PAC2 and Brook fighting board and with a 8PDT switch you can easily enough.
A 6PDT will work also if the grounds to all devices are always connected.
8pdt.jpg.746e422b877a3547e533fa4e13c7cdb3.jpg

As well I got the replacement mini lamps for the coin meter and wired that up.
I now need to figure out how to wire the coin meter to the coin actuator so it counts on all real coins regardless of system connected as the original wiring has it connected separately to the Jamma harness from actuator but J-Pac, Pandora etc don't support that pin J and 8.
MVIMG_20210929_123553-01.thumb.jpg.fd3ee5a093d269621702c292ad92b2a8.jpg

I spoke to Joemac about the black coating on the back of monitors and got some Aquadag to coat my monitor with I'll be doing soon.
It's pricey so anyone in Perth is welcome to come get their monitors coated as there's no way I'll be using all this up myself.
MVIMG_20210909_160155-01.thumb.jpeg.c8ea2f7594b9685e1d0e92ff3128fb4e.jpeg

And today I got Fuses which mean I can wire it up and test info will be in a couple posts.

Edited by drguild
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Posted (edited)

I was asked to explain things about Jamma and why I'm doing what I am to someone so wrote this up.

Quote

What is Jamma?
It's a 56 pin connector standard for power, video, audio, button controls.

What is Chamma?
Also half known as Jamma plus.
The Chinese decided to deviate from the main Jamma standard for more buttons and mby some other functions, it's mostly the same but might vary between manufacturer so double check.
If you buy a board in China aka Pandora box or a console to Jamma board is most likely Chamma.

What is a I-PAC, J-PAC, Brook fighting board?
These are basically just USB interfaces that connect to push buttons and appear as a keyboard or game controller.

The J-PAC uses a Jamma edge connector and can also pass through video, audio and coin mechanisms can be used.

The I-PAC is a basic push button screw terminals to USB PC encoder.

The Brook fighting board is the similar as the I-PAC but can do more things like turbo, as well works on consoles, isn't reconfigurable like the I-PAC (you can just change the wires manually)

The J-PAC and I-PAC are customisable with the Winipac software so you can reassign the inputs however you want, the J-PAC doesn't do gamepad emulation just keyboard.

Other info,
Why a 8 button layout?
Arcade games traditionally used a up to a 6 button layout, newer ones use 8 as well as cabinets like Viewlix and all figtsticks are 8 button.
This allows you play newer arcade and console games which have 8 buttons.
As I'll be turning my panel into a fightstick dual use when it's taken out of the arcade this allows me to play all games using the same panel as well as have consoles PS2 running on the CRT.

What's with the multiple breakouts?
The Jamma harness will have two breakouts, being power and service buttons.
This is just for extra usage and so the service buttons can go to the admin panel directly.

The DB44 connector is a single quick connect that goes from the multiple amp inputs to the controls, this way you unplug 1 connector instead of say 4.

Chamma is just a adaptor to Jamma where the non standard connectors are split out to a connector.

The 4/5 switch is because Jamma has those buttons but some manufacturers have them in the auxiliary kick harness instead.

Why the admin panel?
Admin panel is designed to create a kinda home version of the arcade cabinet where you don't have to spend extra time reaching inside the cabinet to turn on the computer, consoles, or adding service coins, as well as leaving doors open for game controllers and other things.

Why the new back panel?
Modernisation mainly, to allow network, audio, external video output, USB etc which are more common on modern cabinets, to do this a new back panel had to be made.

Cable sleeving?
Neatens up the cables, some use spiral wrap.
People with custom fightstick usually cable sleeve them and show off the neatness so why not do it to the whole arcade, it's looks cool and won't be a mess of wires plus if the harness is ever removed again for cleaning or whatever it won't tangle.

You know soo much a lot is above my head.
Google is your friend when learning as well as a logical brain.
I research as I don't want to do anything without knowing what I'm doing else I may damage something aka see how I blew my monitor at the start of the thread.
Plus knowing the different options and ways to do things is nice, it also means I don't get into a situation where I do something then realise later I didn't think it through and need enhancements or to redo things etc.

Knowing what you can and want to achieve is a good start as well as learning about how to do that properly.

A lot of you learn about PCs all the BIOS settings, overclocking etc as well as cable management etc, this is no different to learn what all the stuff in a arcade is and how to use it to your advantage.

Can you teach me more about technical stuff?
Of course I can just ask away.
If it's something I could show and is wanted I'm happy to make video guides.

I'm hoping this project will inspire others to not just run a arcade or do a basic refurb but to dig deeper and don't be afraid to brainstorm and go beyond what the normal restorations have done and truly restore the arcade in a way that is a showcase piece.

Anything you want to know ask etc feel free.

This is all nonsense its just a arcade machine you don't need all this stuff.
One could say the same about a PC, you don't need RGB lighting, RGB aura ambient lighting, Mechanical keyboards with changeable switches, water-cooling, you don't need to overclock or that 4K HDR monitor with 240hz refresh rate.
You also don't need to cable sleeve your pc wires or do cable management or that superfast M.2 SSD.
A PC will run fine in a beige case with no cable management and a 1080p 60hz screen on stock air cooling with no RGB lighting and a cheap $10 keyboard and mouse.

We do these things cause we want to and to improve our experience as well as looks and functionality of the device and to make them look run and work better for the experience.

So how have I been?
Emotionally a bit of a mess, HUGE fatique stemmed from depression and having no social life or that I feel that a lot of people don't care etc.
As a result the rebuild has slowed down massively and I have issues keeping awake and staying out of bed.
Last night even though I slept 14 hours the night before when I got into bed it was soo soft and comfy compared to normal.

If anyone is in Perth here wants to see the cab catch up or whatever I'm always open to it.

I also have the latest Mame sets 0.236 and happy to share with anyone.

---

So with the fuses here the next question is when do I power on.

I will loosely schedule it for the 9th, Saturday this weekend 5PM EST / 2PM WST
I will be streaming on my discord here so people can come and voice chat with me and help me though the process.
It most likely won't be playable but it will at least turn on the monitor on with some Jamma cards, J-Pac etc.

If anything changes to this schedule I will post back by Friday evening.

Edited by drguild
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Posted (edited)

Input wiring ready for Saturdays testing.
I have checked the voltages with my multimeter and input and output are fine, 117V out from the transformer 240v in.
Transformer red and blue go to the noise filter.
Haven't sleeved the 240v rail as I am awaiting a terminal block and will do that once I put it inside the cabinet and know what lengths I need with the powerboard.

MVIMG_20211006_173320-01.thumb.jpeg.7c86adc365b9a38e4d6cb38474627419.jpeg

Edited by drguild
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Posted (edited)

So about the power on tomorrow.

It's still happening..

Will be on my Twitch and interactive where you can talk to me on my discord.

I had hoped to have it more complete by this stage, so I'll be testing using my PS2 and J-PAC if I can get that working.

Also to note I'm sick again, this tine with tonsillitis and have a swollen throat and light mucous and sleep is affected.

So I don't know how long I'll be streaming for and my presentation isn't going to be the best.

But I plan to give a powerup of the monitor a go.

Edited by drguild
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Posted (edited)

I emailed Joemac as the test wasn't the best on monitor.

Stream was a mix of whoops forgot to turn on the power supply and now I have some picture on monitor but the monitor needs sorting.

Monitor has a static sound at the back and this on the screen.
Clips of the monitor problem below.

First one is Dottorikun start screen.

Here its my PS2 .Hack Quarantine on the Ultimarc PS2 Multisync cable.

 

Edited by drguild
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You need to turn the screen adjustment pot on the flyback down. The massively oversaturated brightness and retrace lines (the horizontal lines on the screen) are caused by the screen pot being turned up too high. Your colours need a lot of adjustment also, you may actually be missing a colour gun on the chassis/tube. Hard to tell with the screen the way it is currently.

Turn the flyback down first, then start slowly adjusting brightness. I recommend reading a basic guide on how to adjust a CRT.

Watch this as a starting point, it covers the basics.

 

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30 minutes ago, namastepat said:

You need to turn the screen adjustment pot on the flyback down. The massively oversaturated brightness and retrace lines (the horizontal lines on the screen) are caused by the screen pot being turned up too high. Your colours need a lot of adjustment also, you may actually be missing a colour gun on the chassis/tube. Hard to tell with the screen the way it is currently.

Turn the flyback down first, then start slowly adjusting brightness. I recommend reading a basic guide on how to adjust a CRT.

Watch this as a starting point, it covers the basics.

 

50349346_235936880624780_7057034246929514496_n.gif.54606ed343b860def1cf54dcdbb6a24f.gif

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First time I have seen this post tonight. Lots of work going on here and i hope you get to achieve what you set out to. I am sorry to read about your depression, that really sucks. Hopefully things open up soon and you can get to meet some new friends. Keep up the posting here  as we do like a project.

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