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Astro City - refurb tech questions etc


drguild
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Instead of posting multiple questions / posts ill use this for my technical stuff.

 

First thing I noticed is the inside of the shell is very rough and that It needed a good turpentine clean with a cloth to get rid of dust attacked to the inside, but as it was rough it was hard to clean due to friction and scraping.

 

So does anyone a product to spray over the inside so its a nice finish for future cleaning?

 

The inside may need some touchup light spray black on a few places then to smooth it all over for future wiping.

 

Overall the cab is in decent condition, I have a worklog on another forum here, which is publicly viewable there's already loads of images and I'd rather not have to post everything twice. Also some questions there most I know about, but feel free to chime in here with answers or solutions.

 

Basically using this one for more technical stuff as the other forum I doubt would get the traffic to answer them.

 

So firstly I'm interested in really smoothing the inside by spraying something over it so its no longer rough and easy to clean.

 

I also have a Megatouch 2008 system that came with the cabinet not working, but seems the motherboard has died and the system won't work swapping the hdd into a working system I have here. I also have all the components on that.

 

I imaged the HDD before testing it as the boot device,

 

Anyone know if its possible to get the touch glass / controller working stand alone?

 

These are the questions for now.

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Dark green looks semi not really better than nothing ok in the pictures i have seen online.But if you owned a ferrari you'd want it red not maroon :) ...

 

What will your admin panel have ?

 

I don't know exactly all the functionality until I put hardware in and work out stuff so it will be done after the main cabinet project is finished and hardware same as other things I want to go.

 

Basically I want a headphone socket, usb plugs, and buttons for computer power, service, coin etc mby a dedicated shift button to double up stuff.

 

This is for flexibility to be able to plug in game controllers and other usb devices, headphones at late night and easy coin and other access without shift keys on the main buttons and so I can be a bum and not have to leave a door underneath always open with the panel with all this stuff just inside for plugging in things turning on/off the pc etc or open the actual cp multiple times a day for buttons under it.

 

All this in the size of and under the 100 yen sticker which from quickly looking theres enough space for this.

 

Being a home user it's just a easily accessible, usability and flexibility thing and bringing the cab into modern times for multiple purposes same as either modifying or making a new power panel at the back with a network port and toslink cable port etc for extra stuff.

 

Panel is planned to be built into the top of the cp with a flip up lid with the 100 yen sticker on the outside so it'll look normal outside as its recessed anyway and kinda looks the part, the panel lock screw holes nothing will change there and be under the panel still as there's plenty of space and it's just moulding so from the under CP there will more of a moulded box there with wires coming out with the panel latch under it which is a square or oblong plate as is.

 

Just inside the CP I am going to have dip switches inline to turn on/off the buttons in the panel so I could disable the computer power button on it if wanted or the coin service buttons etc.

 

Its the best area for doing this due to moulding the latch and the 100 yen sticker.

 

Originally I was going to use the game card area as a hidden panel but as soon as I saw it knew it couldn't be done, I did see someone build a box over there game card panel with a small kb / trackpad mouse in it and routed through the hole underneath which could easily be removed back to stock so some creative thinking there but doesn't blend well with the outside case look nor is it hidden.

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Anyone know info on this monitor?

 

Its a Makvision Wei Ya C2929 15-38Khz according to its sticker.

 

vfs77.jpeg

 

I got my dad to take it to Jomac to get fixed here and when we got it back we tested it at 800x600 60Hz refresh rate it worked for a few seconds then died with ticking which was the original symptom apparently.

 

My dad emailed Jomac about it and was told it is a Tri-Sync and not 800x600 or PC compatible despite it having a D-Sub connector on it.

 

My dad also decided to do some 'looking' and started reading about all the scan converters etc and now believes no monitor is PC compatible.

 

The monitor was initially used in a old Megatouch Force 2008 system which had a standard ECS motherboard with customised bios etc. No video conversion adaptor was installed as I got the system as it complete but not working, so I believe the monitor was plugged straight into the mainboard as it has a D-Sub connector on it.

 

I believe these are 800x600 compatible from what in reading but the email my dad got back from Jomac stated it was trisync and not compatible with a computer despite having a D-Sub connector on it. and what is stated on XGaming and a post to Jomac on this forum in 2007 where someone stated it was 800x600 a max he could get when he had one.

 

And other forums I have seen 800x600 talk pop up for these monitors so I assume it shouldn't be an issue and another issue lies killing the monitor.

 

So can anyone advise me about this?

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This is what I will be finding out the next few days and will post back with its info, I beleive its a Toshiba I'll get a photo of the sticker soon as its at my dads place.

 

I'm getting starting to get my head round things at the moment and yep these stupid mistakes of not knowing and something goes wrong happen but you learn and go forward wiser than before.

 

The actual cab stuff is next to work on so any info, ideas tips etc about my first post or other is also appreciated.

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Take it as shit happens as there is no way for anyone new to this would ever pick up as those tubes where never intended to run on that chassis...

There are some 29" monitors out there that will handle 800 x 600 but are designed purely for that purpose...

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I just cleaned the insides out with spray n wipe . It looks how sega intended to be.

I kinda like the sketchy weird fiberglass texture (if you shine a torch on it it goes red ) ...Once its clean i find the inside just gets a little dusty,it's not like your going to leave your bong sitting on the top of your cab :033:

Save your money for the outside if your going to paint anything.

 

 

And these ....probably find better price etc but this brand of JIS screwdrivers will save alot of headaches ...

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/171753460588?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=107&chn=ps

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In no particular order here is the monitor stickers.

 

Ill post info Wei-Ya gave me the other day in the next post soon.

 

This was on the yoke I think that thing at the back that comes out from the actual tube itself.

 

http://i.imgur.com/qXmslR9.jpg

 

Here is the Toshiba Tube model.

 

http://i.imgur.com/fQdXpsa.jpg

 

Random sticker on the circuit board.

 

http://i.imgur.com/9e7UgOO.jpg

 

Sega model info sticker attacked to the back of the tube.

 

http://i.imgur.com/IzSpkLm.jpg

 

D-Sub Pinnout

 

http://i.imgur.com/uPkTgak.jpg

 

I also have the numbers that go round the glass thing at the back of the tube and some other random stickers but don't know if they are relevant.

 

Hope this should be the main info people need in helping to identify what the parts are and what may have gone wrong.

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In no particular order here is the monitor stickers.

 

This was on the yoke I think that thing at the back that comes out from the actual tube itself.

 

http://i.imgur.com/qXmslR9.jpg

 

Here is the Toshiba Tube model.

 

http://i.imgur.com/fQdXpsa.jpg

 

Random sticker on the circuit board.

 

http://i.imgur.com/9e7UgOO.jpg

 

Sega model info sticker attacked to the back of the tube.

 

http://i.imgur.com/IzSpkLm.jpg

 

D-Sub Pinnout

 

http://i.imgur.com/uPkTgak.jpg

 

I also have the numbers that go round the glass thing at the back of the tube and some other random stickers but don't know if they are relevant.

 

Hope this should be the main info people need in helping to identify what the parts are and what may have gone wrong.

This monitor has came out of a driving cab which indicates to be only 24k res only with a Wei-ya chassis on it.The monitor would've been a ex Daytona or Sega rally or any Sega Model 2 cabinet.Only person can confirm this Jomac..

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My initial thought that it may have been a 24Khz ex Daytona monitor etc from what I was looking around last night.

 

Whoever tried to use it on the Megatouch I don't know how they had it set-up as it didn't have a scan converter with it mby it was taken or the custom bios megatouch used was running that freq etc or may have have been a incorrect install I don't know.

 

It was probably originally set-up for a specific single purpose Daytona etc as mentioned.

 

I got the monitor with the Astro City cab, I found out about Jomac and he fixed it but I wasn't told anything about limitations or usage etc or any safeguards I should take.

 

Basically I had no idea about this stuff not having done anything like this before and just went on the chassis info, Jomac said it can be re-fixed easily enough a week or so ago but he is very busy doing his industrial arcade stuff.

 

I don't know now if I should look for another monitor and pass this to whoever can use it better as I mainly want to play mame, emulation of consoles etc on a system.

 

So anyone know where I should look for a monitor in this case I get a new one? tri-sync or full range etc? I'm in perth so hard getting stuff from over east like from highway.

 

Wei-Ya Info on the chassis they got back to me about.

 

Basically, C2929 is for M2929, but please make sure the monitor is exactly M2929 (no other model no behind 9).

 

800*600 60Hz shall be OK for C2929 (15K-40KHZ).

 

PDF basic general info of chassis.

 

Schematic of mainboard.

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I wasn't told anything about limitations or usage etc or any safeguards I should take.

 

 

 

PDF basic general info of chassis.

 

Schematic of mainboard.

 

 

The downside to playing around with this stuff is that none of it was ever intended for Joe Public to be rooting around with.

They don't come with warnings or suggestions of what to do with it..

If you are at the point where you are removing monitor chassis from a machine then you are meant to know the correct application and capabilities of your chassis.

When a repairer gets a repair from you he is under the impression it is being used on the matched tube it was built for so no warnings or advice would come with it..

 

I suggest get it fixed. Run it at 15k with a multi board or original boards and build a separate mame cabinet that uses an LCD monitor...

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The downside to playing around with this stuff is that none of it was ever intended for Joe Public to be rooting around with.

They don't come with warnings or suggestions of what to do with it..

If you are at the point where you are removing monitor chassis from a machine then you are meant to know the correct application and capabilities of your chassis.

When a repairer gets a repair from you he is under the impression it is being used on the matched tube it was built for so no warnings or advice would come with it..

 

I suggest get it fixed. Run it at 15k with a multi board or original boards and build a separate mame cabinet that uses an LCD monitor...

 

Thing is I'm building up a astro city to use a project machine here also the cost and apace for 2 different units isn't in my interest.

 

Understood that this stuff is as-is and knew that from the start what I meant was for when it got fixed for mby a courtesy info thing mby a 'I noticed bla bla so you might want to take note if you are using it for x seeing you are a home user' thing, this is stuff I would do and say to people but I understand also that no-one knows exactly what everyone is using stuff for.

 

So right now I'm trying to figure out how to proceed still with this Astro City still as a main project emulation etc box and need to work out monitor what to do and if I would need to get a different monitor with a tube more versatile etc.

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I would probably give the tube back to Jomac, and get it fixed again, but ask him what it's limitations etc are...

If it does indeed support 15Khz, then i'd get a PC, a J-Pac, and use that to set up a mame machine running at 15Khz only..

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Ahhh Sledge from OCAU reconise the same sig.

 

I have forum posts on 3 sites about this stuff for trying to get info about this.

 

Looking online Google Search brings up posts where people have this tube, but haven't yet found out about its specs granted I haven't been to all the sites yet.

 

I sent a email to Jomac today about it all and will await a reply.

 

Without knowing the screens capabilities I can't really do much so this is what im trying to figure out. Im also trying to figure out arcade resolutions what 15Khz, 24Khz, 31Khz etc all mean etc so feel free to inform me a complete dummy to all this.

 

As for using a J-Pac I have some other ideas for controls etc that the I-Pac and other devices they sell can acommodate me better, with like spinners trackballs etc and using gamepad and mouse emulation etc and using physical consoles my PS2 etc as mentioned in my OCAU thread etc and for those that don't know or go there, I know that stand alone converters exist as the screen uses a D-Sub monitor connector and I don't have a adaptor board to Jamma harness.

 

So learning all about this as my needs and wants are about flexibility to use different devices etc and to do things flexible than just plug a J-Pac in and be done with it.

 

Once I do have all the info and know and do this I will be making damn sure I will post it to help others out.

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Unfortunately, i don't understand any of the video aspects either :( Hence why i've gone a safe route with limiting the tube to 15Khz, and using a J-pac :)

J-pac protects the tube you see.. and you can use other devices side by side with the J-pac for spinner etc too..

 

But having said that.. yeah i don't know anything about your type of connection..

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If wa based I see a aa member has some Naomi candy cabs for sale in at well with tri res could do a swap over in cabs and then resell the other

 

Or see if merlo bros have any removed from astros

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Understood that this stuff is as-is and knew that from the start what I meant was for when it got fixed for mby a courtesy info thing mby a 'I noticed bla bla so you might want to take note if you are using it for x seeing you are a home user

 

I would never do this because the possibilities and questions that can follow can waste hours that I don't have ,as has been mentioned I always assume that someone bringing me a monitor or chassis knows what it is being used for and it simply just needs repairing.

In your case your dad was very switched on and used to be a tech himself so I was even more confident it wouldn't be operated outside it's specs.

Your setup is a commonly used in Daytona , Sega Rally etc that runs on 24K , If it had of been mentioned this was going to be used on 38K and or had been when it failed I would have said Stop! Your chassis is capable but the tube ( yoke ) isnt , it will only handle a max of 31K.

The very difficult part here is that the tube/ yoke combo you have and the tube/yoke combo that works on 38K have the same part number on the tube , just a different yoke.

 

Anyway simply mistake and I am happy to repair this again at no charge for you , As part of AA we always do our best to make this a good experience :)

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Yep was a simple mistake on my end going on the chassis info and not what the tube was as mentioned earlier.

 

Jomac replied to a email I sent last night and informed me on everything so I'm up to speed now with all this stuff and from extra research the last 24 hours, I know quite a bit more than I did a week ago obviously I won't know everything and never will. This is all new to us and learning fast on this.

 

I appreciate the offer on a free fix Jomac, but I would happily pay a little for the inconvenience caused on being new to all this and stuff and all the info you have supplied me with as I appreciate that the most bringing me up to speed, also as you say you don't have much time with other stuff and I do wish there was some way things were a little easier on you in that regard as I know myself I would hate to be too busy on things.

Also understood about the assumptions and the continual questions you would get, I feel bad just asking the few things yesterday.

 

I know learning all this I may seem to come across a little of a idiot or dumb etc as it takes me a while to understand at times also I know new people on forums jumping in trying to figure things out can look like that and getting in too deep with ambition etc when to some of you this stuff may be easy and those of you who are keeping it simple, may wonder why a new person would find all this hard trying to get all the info they can, so appologies to everyone, my skills are mainly cert 3/4 I.T tech and 1/2 in business, I.T refurb experience etc and general computer stuff with quite a bit I learned myself, I'm not skilled or really knowledgeable with electronics and other things.

 

I worked out the things to look for later once I start hardware build which are:

- A dsub to pinnout board like this, as a lot of things probably most things use pins or the harness.

 

- A scalar / frequancy limiter I'm doing my research on both converters and the arcadevga card which is said to do native resolutions.

 

- I know there are schematics to the PS2 and other consoles / devices to build yourself using a lm chip I would need to look more into later as well you can buy some premade stuff as I do want to run my console at native resolution.

 

I believe the pinout board I linked above is a straight wire adaptor from what I can see without anything in it also purchasble here, so correct me if im wrong, if it is a stright breakout it should be easy to make one for half the price of getting one if this is the case.

 

Apologies again I was a little embarrassed if I wanted to reply to this thread again but thought I would out of courtesy.

Hope I haven't left a impression I'm the new user that has no completly idea what he doing thing on this forum and shouldn't even be attempting this thing.

Those on my other forum where my proper worklog is would hopefully see how much effort I'm trying to put into this and my full plans for this project which are ambitious in flexibility but I know I can pull it off.

Edited by drguild
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Mate don't be so hard on yourself and no need to apologise, this is what AA is here for and the only way you learn is to read and ask questions.

You are a very fast learner and have learn't a heap so this is has been a total success , keep in mind this will help many others in similar situations.

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Cheers guys, I try to learn a lot doing things and this after the initial issue I need to know as much as I can.

 

Hope it's ok to link to the other forum where I have my full worklog is kinda image intensive would be happy to post and discuss stuff here but updating one thread on a forum is a bit much at times, I still need to update the second post with new info I'll try to get done today.

 

The worklog is here, you can see the full scope and my intended uses etc of what I'm doing and why I am going for flexibility.

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I suggest not using white knights watered down "paint" again ...

 

Perth has one of the bigger importers of spray paint into australia so it shouldnt be hard to find . I recomend ANY colour from the Montana 94 range any Montana paint actually ... and ironlak is second best for pretty much anything ( the only faults with ironlak is that it fades in outdoor sun) . and both those brands (ironlak is aussie ) are cheaper than that pressurised white knights black water :) ...Better pigment ,thicker paint, easier to sand and buff etc ... Except for dymark and a few rustoleum colours the rest of the spray paint range at bunnings/hardware stores is crap.

 

I like everything how its meant to look from the factory, but I will give it to you ,it looks a little bit allright that fresh black inside !

 

 

And you wont find new/nos/old/good repros of astro city side art. Are you any good with illustrator ? Halftone dot patterns ?

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I suggest not using white knights watered down "paint" again ...

 

Perth has one of the bigger importers of spray paint into australia so it shouldnt be hard to find . I recomend ANY colour from the Montana 94 range any Montana paint actually ... and ironlak is second best for pretty much anything ( the only faults with ironlak is that it fades in outdoor sun) . and both those brands (ironlak is aussie ) are cheaper than that pressurised white knights black water :) ...Better pigment ,thicker paint, easier to sand and buff etc ... Except for dymark and a few rustoleum colours the rest of the spray paint range at bunnings/hardware stores is crap.

 

I like everything how its meant to look from the factory, but I will give it to you ,it looks a little bit allright that fresh black inside !

 

 

And you wont find new/nos/old/good repros of astro city side art. Are you any good with illustrator ? Halftone dot patterns ?

 

That was a progress shot the inside wasn't too bad doing it but noted for future stuff I'll be doing more tomorrow so I'll make sure to get a good look mby take my DSLR this time for some photos than phone pics, and we will make sure that after its done before we do the gloss we do a rub down on the paint. Its inside so not too much of a issue and the finish even with that paint to me is way better than how it was.

 

I managed to find a lot of scans and vectors from the Arcade Otaku wiki and other places of all the stickers.

 

It's finding someone who may be able to print them for a reasonable cost.

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They are the wrong color ...

I got the 1L6B astro overlay printed from there and it's wrong size ( 99% of the wiki is awesome tho ) ..

 

this is the best you will find:

http://www.gamoover.net/Forums/gallery/4699_22_05_11_9_45_34.png

 

second bestish:

http://www.gameongrafix.com/products/astro-city-sideart

 

 

@MamePatrol is the best for printing.

 

I am really keen to see how it goes with getting some sideart printed up tho !

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Ahhh cheers for that I grabbed a bunch of stuff I was going to sort through later when I got to that stage didn't realise the sideart I grabbed were dark green when the astros are fluro green.

 

I think I do have 1 perfect or near perfect side sticker if someone here in Perth knows how to remove and scan it, they will be welcome to. I'll check tomorrow and see.

 

I'll have to check that guy out with printing stuff etc im keen to get stuff printed if it's not too costly.

- Just realised its Noodleshirt I'm thinking of getting my panel from him and been in contact about some stuff and he suggested all the buttons etc I should use, really helpful guy.

 

Also what's the best way to safely remove these things as well as the 100 yen sticker which is in near perfect condition and don't want to loose when I do the admin panel mod under it?

 

I know most people will cry when they see I'm going to modify the actual case design slightly for a access panel but I did a lot of looking at the best way to do it and under the 100 yen sticker is just moulding for the screw holes which the area isn't being used and I'm sure I can get it to look very hidden almost as if nothing is there from the outside.

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