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The Shadow Restoration


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I thought I would dig up this old thread as I have done a few more bits and pieces in the past week or two...

 

Looks great. You might be able to help me out. I bought a new coin door just like yours for my Shadow, however there's no tab to push in the interlock switches. Was this the case with yours?

 

Also, did your coin door come with the c220 mech? If so did you hook it up?

 

Lastly what did you connect the led strip to?

 

Cheers

 

 

[emoji298]️

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Looks great. You might be able to help me out. I bought a new coin door just like yours for my Shadow, however there's no tab to push in the interlock switches. Was this the case with yours?

 

Also, did your coin door come with the c220 mech? If so did you hook it up?

 

Lastly what did you connect the led strip to?

 

Cheers

 

 

[emoji298]️

 

Thanks mate. This door came with the game when I bought it a few years ago, and it does have tabs. I'm guessing the previous owner put the door in, because it's in perfect condition. I don't have a coin mech installed.

 

I hooked up the led strip to the GI circuit at the rear left of the playfield. It is one of BioBa's new 6v strips - http://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/74374-6-V-LED-strips-yes-finally-6-V-led-strips-(not-12-V)-to-be-used-for-great-effect

 

They look great and they are super easy to install. Just cut the strip to length with scissors and a little soldering and you're good to go!

 

Hope that helps.

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The Shadow Restoration

 

I hooked up the led strip to the GI circuit at the rear left of the playfield.

 

Thanks. I've got some strips ready to go. I take it you had to leave a couple of feet of slack to allow the playfield to be lifted without pulling the strip off the backbox?

 

 

[emoji298]️

Edited by 1.21 Gigawatts
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Thanks. I've got some strips ready to go. I take it you had to leave a couple of feet of slack to allow the playfield to be lifted without pulling the strip off the backbox?

 

 

[emoji298]️

 

A bit of slack, I think each wire was just over 1 foot. I put the pf up which is the maximum distance you need to span, held the wire in place, then added 10-20% for movement. Next I'm going to light the shooter lane, saucers and flipper buttons!

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  • 4 years later...

Here is a revival of an really old restoration thread. I haven't touched any of my machines for a few years, but I'm getting back into it lately.

I have upgraded the rails to some Railways bright annealed rails. I also have some of their stainless hinges polished to a mirror finish (or as good as I could do) ready to go on.

 

11.thumb.jpg.f60caa054febb2f66d38fea85fbd123f.jpg

 

I also had to do something with the 3 mongols. The originals were flat and lacked detail.

 

Before:

 

12.thumb.jpg.82d378cc3eaa7edac408baf335c9d140.jpg

After:

 

13.thumb.jpg.435370e12e234420189a9ba0c7f62311.jpg14.thumb.jpg.07dc6621c005b7ee6c5df6b8530b0db3.jpg

 

I have a few more additions in the works. Hopefully some more to write about soon!

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  • 3 months later...

I recently got my ramps restored.

 

I looked at several options to put a new 'brass' finish on the ramps.

 

1) Buttered brass powdercoat with a clear coat. This looks great when done on a polished surface. One of the places that I looked at quoted $180 for all of the ramps (and a few under playfield pieces). Here is a sample photo:

96112294_BrassPC.thumb.jpg.4327b209ae9bce4a36ec1fe9388edc49.jpg

 

2) Cosmichrome paint and then tinted gold candy in a clearcoat then ceramic coated over. This would cost $600-$700

 

3) Brass plating. This is the option I chose to go with.

 

In Queensland there are 2 options for brass plating - GC Electroplating and S.Cook & Sons. I decided to try S.Cook & Sons as I hadn't heard much feedback about them. Somebody had to give them a go.

 

The parts were $60 each, 6 parts total. This included plating and 2 pak clearcoating.

 

They had to send most of their staff home during the early stages of COVID lockdowns, so I did have to wait a while for them to finish the work. I also found some 'spotting' on the ramps when I picked them up, and they were happy to re-plate them when I showed them. They said they guarantee their work. Also, at no stage did I feel like there was a risk of my parts getting lost, something that other guys on here have had issues with elsewhere.

 

Here are a few photos:

BEFORE

697092278_Before1.thumb.JPG.612a5471f4d59075c32bcfa479eb95cb.JPG 1261113029_Before2.thumb.JPG.2e8c4040fa884b2e740c88b615e01556.JPG

 

AND AFTER

2021599183_After1.thumb.JPG.e954ea31147f8d4324cd6f2997c86d17.JPG 164055975_After2.thumb.JPG.176aa15856c1eb6d8a26654186956d46.JPG

 

I hope that helps some of you.

 

I also installed some bright annealed Railways rails and some mirror polished hinges to match the chrome legs and lockdown bar. Super shiny!!!

1877539266_After2.thumb.JPG.f751a685799122b8100891faf8b5c616.JPG

1504211626_After1.thumb.JPG.fe1cbc75d5a106584e56f76387e3d634.JPG

1873286425_BrassPC.thumb.jpg.9a8f9d5ff9bd7f00d75bc708a16293e3.jpg

  • Like 6
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  • 2 weeks later...

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