Maxprofits Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Common problems. -Clock will be cooked: Replace all clock opto's and replace #86 globes with LED's, do a google search for more info. -Power ball filthy: Novus 3 and/or 2 and a rag and lots of elbow grease. Or tumble on its own. Replacements avalible but expensive. -Slot machine scoop weld broken: Replace or re-weld (get someone good to do the welding, its a two minute job) Put a few extra welds to increase the strenght of the scoop. -GI connectors cooked on the Power Driver Board: Replace with Trifurcon pins and new connector plus header pins on the board itself. Great game but something of a beast to shop.:p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Railways Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 -Clock will be cooked: Replace all clock opto's and replace #86 globes with LED's, do a google search for more info. -Power ball filthy: Novus 3 and/or 2 and a rag and lots of elbow grease. Or tumble on its own. Replacements avalible but expensive. -Slot machine scoop weld broken: Replace or re-weld (get someone good to do the welding, its a two minute job) Put a few extra welds to increase the strenght of the scoop. -GI connectors cooked on the Power Driver Board: Replace with Trifurcon pins and new connector plus header pins on the board itself. Great game but something of a beast to shop.:pYep gotta agree it is way complicated. I've tackled all those above + proximity sensor and board (SW.26) + ongoing probs with Geneva switch in gumball and I still haven't tackled the cab yet:rolleyes Jeez it's always something or other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxprofits Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Yep gotta agree it is way complicated. I've tackled all those above + proximity sensor and board (SW.26) + ongoing probs with Geneva switch in gumball and I still haven't tackled the cab yet:rolleyes The first TZ I owned had one globe on the GI working when I got it, that was how badly repaired and let go it was. I learnt a lot about pin repair from that machine :p I honestly believe that many TZ owners throw thier hands in the air and say "its just to hard to fix" Hence everything seems to be broken on every TZ I've seen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Railways Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Yep gotta agree that you certainly learn a lot along the way with TZ but the're all fixable given time and patience. I'm not giving up by no means but the thread is all about known probs and I'm quite surprised that no-one has posted except us. Maybe all the other TZ's work faultlessly:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ando77 Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Man, I Been lucky Bullet proof from day dot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Railways Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Hope you haven't jinxed yourself:D best go buy a lottery ticket with shock to be on the safe side:lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxprofits Posted June 8, 2010 Share Posted June 8, 2010 Man, I Been lucky Bullet proof from day dot I reckon it has more to do with the fact the TZ was a popular game when they were on site and copped a huge amount of plays and were powered up for long periods of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ando77 Posted June 9, 2010 Share Posted June 9, 2010 I reckon it has more to do with the fact the TZ was a popular game when they were on site and copped a huge amount of plays and were powered up for long periods of time. I'm very lucky, low milage, Aussie unit Sat as a display piece in an office for a number of years Gotta love the low mileage pins :p Beautifull :D Ando Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackKnight2000 Posted October 27, 2012 Share Posted October 27, 2012 The GI has died on mine. GI connectors have a couple of burn marks. Where can I get the replacement connectors in Melbourne. An idiots guide to the job would be good too. I haven't really looked for a guide yet. I think I remember seeing something on TOP. Also the powerball isn't detected when it drains. Hope this isn't a huge job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casperthefriendly Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 The GI has died on mine. GI connectors have a couple of burn marks. Where can I get the replacement connectors in Melbourne. An idiots guide to the job would be good too. I haven't really looked for a guide yet. I think I remember seeing something on TOP. Also the powerball isn't detected when it drains. Hope this isn't a huge job. Can't help with where to get connectors in melbourne, I just bought a load from mouser.com. Best guide in the pinrepair guides, though it isn't that complicated, just fiddly and time consuming. With the powerball, TZ detects steel balls in the trough, rather than the powerball. There's a small pcb proximity sensor at the front of the trough that senses whether the next ball to be ejected is steel or not. If the machine doesn't see a steel ball, it'll assume it's a powerball next. There's also a proximity sensor under the subway ramp in the middle of the table. Same logic as the trough - it detects steel balls and when doesn't see a steel ball when expected, assumes it's a pball. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonny_Jim Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Just to follow on from Caspers post: The proximity sensor by the trough is notorious for failing, more often than not it's the two wires that connect the sensor to the PCB making intermittent contact. My advice is to cut off the IDC connector on each end and just solder the wires straight onto the boards. With regard to the GI connectors, I prefer using Molex crimp type connectors as these seem to last longer in my experience, although you will have to get a crimp tool for it. The good news is that you can buy the tool off ebay easily enough, I think PC PSU's use a similar connector. The other option is to use the same 'punchdown' IDC connectors that are on there already, but you'll still need to buy a punchdown tool if you want to do it properly. It is possible to use a small blade screwdriver to do it but it's much easier to just use the tool. http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopchop Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 Love my machine. Managed to stay ahead of all these problems, except through proximity 26 which has to be repaired - and no problems since. New german clock board with color changing LEDs is brilliant, and lots of added toys, LED the playfield and its been a dream for the past 7 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hotty Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) TZ Mini play field. Note the four connectors that supply this mini play field , there are 2 connectors the same size and shape. One is for optos and the other is for the magnets, if you accidentally swap them over you will destroy the opto switches. You will notice the flash lamps constantly on as well which is a giveaway. Switch error tests will be shown as well. Replace optos TX and most probably RX. Well after replacing opto's that didn't work so the three LM 339 quad comparators were replaced, problem still existed. Mpu switch outputs were checked but all switches tested ok. Get ready for it, the receivers opto diodes were reversed on the PCB only found this out by testing a known working IR in the machine ans determined this when I couldn't activate it through a torch with the DMM. I have read once before that some manufactures have their specs in reverse ie anode and cathode so when you place the IR back on there are arse about. This fault is one that hammered me for a month. Thought I would share this if you rebuild your opto switches. Edited October 19, 2014 by hotty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazydaisy Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 On my Twilight Zone , when the ball gets kicked out of ball trough it comes out bounces against rubber on small post and bounces back into ball trough , it does it for auto shooter lane and normal shooter lane , i have tried black and white rubber on post to no avail. Any ideas before i start pulling it apart ? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimlock Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 (edited) @crazydaisy I rectified this problem 2 weeks ago by removing the apron and bending the top of the out hole gateway down, that helped change the trajectory downwards more and not bounce into the post and bounce back into trough. I also changed the rubber to a super band mini post because it is smaller Hope this helps :D Darren On my Twilight Zone , when the ball gets kicked out of ball trough it comes out bounces against rubber on small post and bounces back into ball trough , it does it for auto shooter lane and normal shooter lane , i have tried black and white rubber on post to no avail. Any ideas before i start pulling it apart ? Thanks Edited August 24, 2014 by Grimlock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazydaisy Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Cool i will try and let you know . Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEX Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Thanks I have the same problem so will try this also. @crazydaisy I rectified this problem 2 weeks ago by removing the apron and bending the top of the out hole gateway down, that helped change the trajectory downwards more and not bounce into the post and bounce back into trough. I also changed the rubber to a super band mini post because it is smaller Hope this helps :D Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazydaisy Posted September 2, 2014 Share Posted September 2, 2014 Bent the outhole gateway and it worked a treat , thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinball god Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 You need to bend the metal guideway slightly inwards or outwards to solve the problem. I had the problem a couple times, once when first purchased and when I did a pf swap. You don't have the bend it much and I used a small plier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItsUrFeminitzNYImNietYoma Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Proximity Switch 26 Fix I fixed my proximity switch 26 issue by changing the cable that attaches from J2 on the Proximity Sensor Board to J1 on the Trough Coil Assembly. I got mine from @Puzzle who at time or writing this says he has more if you need one. If he hasn't got any left (try him first, he's closer) you can get them from Pinbits: If this cable doesn't fix your issue, you may need to reflow or replace the board header pins on each board (@Wiredoug) but I'll leave that explanation to someone who has done it as I haven't needed to (...yet). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItsUrFeminitzNYImNietYoma Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 If you need to remove your mini playfield, follow removal instructions found on the sticker inside the cab: Not via the instructions in the manual as the diagram is wrong in the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItsUrFeminitzNYImNietYoma Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Was having gumball issues recently where every ball entering the gumball was triggering powerball multiball. Error message would say "Check Gumball Diverter". Testing gumball via test menu T.15 showed everything working except Lane switch. Turned out that the Lane switch (switch 51, pg 2-50/51 TZ manual) had lost a screw so the switch was pivoting on the remaining screw when the ball rolled over the switch. Replaced missing screw now everything back to normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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