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Twilight Zone - Bally


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Common problems.

 

-Clock will be cooked: Replace all clock opto's and replace #86 globes with LED's, do a google search for more info.

-Power ball filthy: Novus 3 and/or 2 and a rag and lots of elbow grease. Or tumble on its own. Replacements avalible but expensive.

-Slot machine scoop weld broken: Replace or re-weld (get someone good to do the welding, its a two minute job) Put a few extra welds to increase the strenght of the scoop.

-GI connectors cooked on the Power Driver Board: Replace with Trifurcon pins and new connector plus header pins on the board itself.

 

Great game but something of a beast to shop.:p

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-Clock will be cooked: Replace all clock opto's and replace #86 globes with LED's, do a google search for more info.

-Power ball filthy: Novus 3 and/or 2 and a rag and lots of elbow grease. Or tumble on its own. Replacements avalible but expensive.

-Slot machine scoop weld broken: Replace or re-weld (get someone good to do the welding, its a two minute job) Put a few extra welds to increase the strenght of the scoop.

-GI connectors cooked on the Power Driver Board: Replace with Trifurcon pins and new connector plus header pins on the board itself.

 

Great game but something of a beast to shop.:p

Yep gotta agree it is way complicated. I've tackled all those above + proximity sensor and board (SW.26) + ongoing probs with Geneva switch in gumball and I still haven't tackled the cab yet:rolleyes Jeez it's always something or other.
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Yep gotta agree it is way complicated. I've tackled all those above + proximity sensor and board (SW.26) + ongoing probs with Geneva switch in gumball and I still haven't tackled the cab yet:rolleyes

 

The first TZ I owned had one globe on the GI working when I got it, that was how badly repaired and let go it was. I learnt a lot about pin repair from that machine :p

I honestly believe that many TZ owners throw thier hands in the air and say "its just to hard to fix" Hence everything seems to be broken on every TZ I've seen!

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Yep gotta agree that you certainly learn a lot along the way with TZ but the're all fixable given time and patience. I'm not giving up by no means but the thread is all about known probs and I'm quite surprised that no-one has posted except us. Maybe all the other TZ's work faultlessly:D
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Man, I Been lucky

 

Bullet proof from day dot

 

 

I reckon it has more to do with the fact the TZ was a popular game when they were on site and copped a huge amount of plays and were powered up for long periods of time.

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I reckon it has more to do with the fact the TZ was a popular game when they were on site and copped a huge amount of plays and were powered up for long periods of time.

 

I'm very lucky, low milage, Aussie unit

 

Sat as a display piece in an office for a number of years

 

Gotta love the low mileage pins :p

 

Beautifull :D

 

Ando

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  • 2 years later...
The GI has died on mine. GI connectors have a couple of burn marks. Where can I get the replacement connectors in Melbourne. An idiots guide to the job would be good too. I haven't really looked for a guide yet. I think I remember seeing something on TOP. Also the powerball isn't detected when it drains. Hope this isn't a huge job.
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The GI has died on mine. GI connectors have a couple of burn marks. Where can I get the replacement connectors in Melbourne. An idiots guide to the job would be good too. I haven't really looked for a guide yet. I think I remember seeing something on TOP. Also the powerball isn't detected when it drains. Hope this isn't a huge job.

 

Can't help with where to get connectors in melbourne, I just bought a load from mouser.com. Best guide in the pinrepair guides, though it isn't that complicated, just fiddly and time consuming.

 

 

With the powerball, TZ detects steel balls in the trough, rather than the powerball. There's a small pcb proximity sensor at the front of the trough that senses whether the next ball to be ejected is steel or not. If the machine doesn't see a steel ball, it'll assume it's a powerball next.

 

There's also a proximity sensor under the subway ramp in the middle of the table. Same logic as the trough - it detects steel balls and when doesn't see a steel ball when expected, assumes it's a pball.

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  • 5 months later...

Just to follow on from Caspers post:

 

The proximity sensor by the trough is notorious for failing, more often than not it's the two wires that connect the sensor to the PCB making intermittent contact. My advice is to cut off the IDC connector on each end and just solder the wires straight onto the boards.

 

With regard to the GI connectors, I prefer using Molex crimp type connectors as these seem to last longer in my experience, although you will have to get a crimp tool for it. The good news is that you can buy the tool off ebay easily enough, I think PC PSU's use a similar connector. The other option is to use the same 'punchdown' IDC connectors that are on there already, but you'll still need to buy a punchdown tool if you want to do it properly. It is possible to use a small blade screwdriver to do it but it's much easier to just use the tool.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#General_Illumination_Problems

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Love my machine. Managed to stay ahead of all these problems, except through proximity 26 which has to be repaired - and no problems since. New german clock board with color changing LEDs is brilliant, and lots of added toys, LED the playfield and its been a dream for the past 7 years.
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  • 1 year later...
TZ Mini play field. Note the four connectors that supply this mini play field , there are 2 connectors the same size and shape. One is for optos and the other is for the magnets, if you accidentally swap them over you will destroy the opto switches. You will notice the flash lamps constantly on as well which is a giveaway. Switch error tests will be shown as well. Replace optos TX and most probably RX. Well after replacing opto's that didn't work so the three LM 339 quad comparators were replaced, problem still existed. Mpu switch outputs were checked but all switches tested ok. Get ready for it, the receivers opto diodes were reversed on the PCB only found this out by testing a known working IR in the machine ans determined this when I couldn't activate it through a torch with the DMM. I have read once before that some manufactures have their specs in reverse ie anode and cathode so when you place the IR back on there are arse about. This fault is one that hammered me for a month. Thought I would share this if you rebuild your opto switches. Edited by hotty
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  • 2 weeks later...

On my Twilight Zone , when the ball gets kicked out of ball trough it comes out bounces against rubber on small post and bounces back into ball trough , it does it for auto shooter lane and normal shooter lane , i have tried black and white rubber on post to no avail.

Any ideas before i start pulling it apart ?

Thanks

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@crazydaisy

I rectified this problem 2 weeks ago by removing the apron and bending the top of the out hole gateway down, that helped change the trajectory downwards more and not bounce into the post and bounce back into trough.

I also changed the rubber to a super band mini post because it is smaller

Hope this helps :D

Darren

 

On my Twilight Zone , when the ball gets kicked out of ball trough it comes out bounces against rubber on small post and bounces back into ball trough , it does it for auto shooter lane and normal shooter lane , i have tried black and white rubber on post to no avail.

Any ideas before i start pulling it apart ?

Thanks

Edited by Grimlock
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Thanks I have the same problem so will try this also.

@crazydaisy

I rectified this problem 2 weeks ago by removing the apron and bending the top of the out hole gateway down, that helped change the trajectory downwards more and not bounce into the post and bounce back into trough.

I also changed the rubber to a super band mini post because it is smaller

Hope this helps :D

Darren

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 8 months later...

Proximity Switch 26 Fix

 

I fixed my proximity switch 26 issue by changing the cable that attaches from J2 on the Proximity Sensor Board to J1 on the Trough Coil Assembly.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=79974&stc=1attachment.php?attachmentid=79975&stc=1

 

I got mine from @Puzzle who at time or writing this says he has more if you need one. If he hasn't got any left (try him first, he's closer) you can get them from Pinbits:

 

If this cable doesn't fix your issue, you may need to reflow or replace the board header pins on each board (@Wiredoug) but I'll leave that explanation to someone who has done it as I haven't needed to (...yet).

2015-06-29_21h59_32.jpg

2015-06-29_22h01_08.jpg

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  • 1 year later...
  • 7 months later...

Was having gumball issues recently where every ball entering the gumball was triggering powerball multiball.

 

Error message would say "Check Gumball Diverter". Testing gumball via test menu T.15 showed everything working except Lane switch.

 

Turned out that the Lane switch (switch 51, pg 2-50/51 TZ manual) had lost a screw so the switch was pivoting on the remaining screw when the ball rolled over the switch.

 

Replaced missing screw now everything back to normal.

 

Lane Switch.jpg

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