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Found 3 results

  1. Just a bit of Friday chrome goodness on my latest project. Happy to help anyone out with the translite or custom speaker panel in chrome or standard edition if you want ..send me a pm. I'll do a full write up and pics on the project when we migrate over to the new forum ( which is looking awesome btw! thanks Arcade King).
  2. Been a while since I've posted an arcade project and I really wanted to test the new forum software. This cab has been sitting in my garage for years as a long non-started project. I recently took a couple of days off (in lockdown) and decided it finally needed some love. Originally a container import out of Italy, it arrived non working. Italian Gaming Licence ID: 0 There was no life in the 35 year old Hantarex Power Supply rattling around loose in the cab and the Orion tube/chassis would also not fire up. Knowing virtually nothing about the electronics on those particular parts, combined with the age and state of them I ended up removing them from the cabinet. 0 I gave the cabinet a thorough clean as I'd never seen one like this and I loved the artwork and style of the cabinet. I had to repair the front frame of the monitor mount. Its made out of MDF and in glued and screwed into the sides but has started to collapse. I ended up filling it with MDF glue, clamping it back into shape and letting it set overnight. I think its stronger than new now 😉 0 Unholy of holies I have a stash of 19" CRT PC monitors so I decased one and slotted it into the chassis frame. A little diligence in cutting some of the plastics and it fit like a glove. Yeah yeah I know Arcade Tubes are far and away better and several of my other cabs sport them but I was in lockdown with no access to any other parts so sue me 😉 The control panel is covered with a sheet of acrylic now as the original underneath has many marks from cigarette burns. Notice the cigarette holder on the right. That'd never fly in Australia. I gave it all a good clean, removing the rusted bolts and giving them the treatment. The treatment being locked into a cordless drill and spun against some finishing paper. Then undercoated and sprayed black. As usual they came up really well. The cigarette holder was removed and polished. The bolts for those were also rusted but I sanded them and then clearcoated to prevent them rusting up again. I'd retained the jamma harness and all of the micro-switch connections had been soldered on. Good practice but a bitch for replacement and maintenance. I was lucky in that there were no broken connections. I re-built and old Dell PC I have a few of. Windows 7, Mame and MalaFE all configured and ready to go then interfaced it all with a J-Pac. Hands down the easiest way to get your controls running. Some test drives, configuring a few of the controls at a global level and everything is working as expected. Another advantage of the J-Pac is the Shift Key function so I don't have to drill holes and add extra buttons for Exit and Coin Inserts. Further to this the coin mechs were still all wired up to the harness and dropping a 50 euro cent coin into the slots triggers a credit. Love it although I only have 5 of the coins. Thinking about modifying them to use the 100 custom tokens I have but with the J-Pac's shift keys it would purely be a novelty. Note the Price on the Inserts. I do need to replace the bulbs in there so they look nicely backlit. (Note this photo is before I cleaned it all) I've configured the PC to start up after power loss and MalaFE to start up with Windows. The cab has a power socket on the top with a fused switch. I wired that into a 4 port powerboard that I mounted inside the cab. This powers the monitor, PC and eventually a flourescent tube for the marquee. The original was practically disintegrating. Unfortunately the marquee (glass) was broken. So I scanned it with a flatbed scanner and have been restoring the image after I vectorised it. It's almost complete and I'll send it off to be printed on a new acrylie marquee to fit. Things to complete: All up this cab has 3 locks on it. The Coin Door, The door to the cointray and the back panel which is metal. I'm going to purchase 3 that are keyed alike Install marquee light Get Marquee printed There is also a mount for a volume control. I'll be installed one of DavidAVD's in-line volume controls into that in the next few days which will allow me to control the volume on the original single jamma powered speaker. There is a chunk of chipboard missing from the top. I'm of two minds on whether to repair it or not. All up I'm very happy with the result and it plays really well. I customised the Layout file with my name 😉 Note you can see the wall behind it as I haven't put the back panel back on yet. Its outside after being cleaned. Cheers, Brad
  3. I thought I better put a placeholder in for my restore and for feedback, suggestions and help: https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/91459-My-first-and-new-pinball-in-da-house This is an interesting machine: One of only three 4-player Williams games to have the 2nd player located in the lower left corner of the backglass and the 3rd player in the upper right. Design by: Norm Clark Art by: Jerry Kelley Notes: 'A-Go-Go' was the first machine to use a captive ball spinner, invented by Norm Clark. During the production run, the coin door was changed from the large single-slot to a smaller multiple slot and the drop-down cabinet was eliminated. We do not know how many games were produced in each cabinet style. Reportedly, the January 1967 issue of the German trade magazine Münzautomat stated that the standard cabinet games were Later Production games and were manufactured due to a high demand in Germany. I have the earlier version with the single coin slot and the drop down cabinet. To put it bluntly, the paintwork is completely rat shit. But the timber itself is in fantastic condition so a repaint is on the way. I'll trace the existing and mask/paint which I'm not too bad at. See my minipin as an example: https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/42304-Minipin?highlight=minipin My big question is how do I match the colours when they're so faded? Of course there is no key for the 2 locks on it so I cannot currently open it up. I'm assuming I'll have to drill these out then replace? Can you get original replacements for them? Backglass is also very faded and in the centre a fair bit has come away. I'll have to replace this at some stage. Can I treat with anything to stop it degrading anymore in the meantime? Playfield, is to my untrained eye surprisingly good although one of the roll-overs? looks like it's lifted. Again not surprising for a 52 year old game thats been sitting idle for many years. I can take a closer look once I can get the glass off. The glass is filthy. Unfortunately some clown cut the harness to the back-box, easily repaired but I'm not going near any of the electrics until way further down the restore path. I've already sourced schematics for it so that's a start. Coin door is rusty in places. Do I replace or restore. I'd prefer to restore if feasible. Legs are in shocking condition, so I think they'll need to be replaced =( There's also a ball in the bottom shute Cheers, Brad
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