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Found 2 results

  1. Hi All, First post! Hope I don't break any rules, but here goes. This is my very first arcade. I purchased a NeoGeo MVS 4 Slot original LAI cabinet. The MVS hardware is gone as it was sold with the original CRT monitor. I haven't fully inspected the inside yet, but it does work with a LCD conversion to a Pandora's Box 5s via JAMMA connector. From what I can tell everything is mostly original. Backstory goes it originally came from a hotel. Guy before the guy I bought it from cleared out hotels and the guy I bought it from, bought it from him in addition to another broken one. Both cannibalised to create one good one. 10+ years later on I found it listed on FBM. It has MCA joysticks, which I'm not a big fan of and from what I can tell some MCA buttons mixed with maybe SUZO? Or possibly just generic knockoffs. Unclear. I want to replace the MCA joysticks and buttons. I'm not sure what. Seems to be supply chain issues from places I've bought before (modded some arcade sticks). I was thinking of getting IL Joysticks and IL Concave Buttons with the NeoGeo 4 Colours. The Control Panel merely rests on the cabinet and is locked in place. I'm pretty sure this is a standard build practice for the LAI Lowboys, but I've seen other similar sized/shaped that have a piano hinge to allow easier access without having to fully disconnect and remove the CP from the cabinet. It seems to be in really good condition including the vinyl. I'd like to relive all the visible rust and inspect it properly. The MVS 4 Light Panel is currently untested, but I know that it's been replaced with a basic tube light. Unclear if any of the original hardware is present. I'd more than likely would've replaced it with a LED kit I've seen on YT Arcade channels. Also, I need to replace the speakers. Pretty sure they're the original ones and would be the shitty paper cups that I'm surprised still work half decently. At present moment I have no idea about CRTs, but it may be something I'd like to approach in the future, and also get my hands on an original MVS 4 Slot, pick up some cartidges and or get a 161 in 1. I've already looked at MiSTerCade, but that's way down the line project. I want to learn the basics first before I get into higher level modding. So all that being said, I just want to start getting some advice on what to do and any immediate suggestions that would be suitable and or pragmatic. It's really muggy in Brisbane ATM. So any advice on helping with any further degradation of the wood, etc. Looking for information with; 1. What buttons would you recommend for coloured concave buttons? I've included some pictures because I like how low profile the solid red and yellow ones are. 2. What joysticks would you recommend for bat tops and predominantly fighting games? I know MCA is the most common, but they feel too stiff to me and are a pain in the arse playing fighting games. 3. How easy/hard is it to install a piano hinge for the CP? As stated above, it's just a mod to make access easier. 4. What should I use to clean the outside vinyl artwork and CP without further degrading what's left? 5. I need to buy a security lock for the front door as it's missing and there's a hole for one. What/where do I buy? 6. Any practical advice for storage in this shitty Brisbane climate? Apologies for the laundry list, but I appreciate all that made it this far. Look forward to chatting to the community about my project.
  2. I've had this machine sitting neglected in my garage for almost 2 years. Had the parts just not the inclination but over christmas the bug got hold of me and I started working on it. The cab is an old LAI Rampage cab: http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=9261 There was no board, jamma harness, control panel, coin mech's or artwork included. What was included was the original 19" arcade monitor, power supply, fluro light and dodgy mame marquee. I started by creating a new control panel. The original was a 3 player setup but I've built this with 2 players in mind and a centre spinner. As my art skills are non-existant, in the short term I built the panel out of ply and stained and varnished it. Sure not original or normal but it came up okay with the result below: As you can see the player 2 joystick is a top fire as I wanted to be able to play Tron, Battlezone and Two Tigers easily. I'm sure there are other games with possibly doubling the top fire button as a push pull option for games like Discs Of Tron and Frontline. The Top Fire is a normal 8way stick with a modified shaft and top button. I have to say that the joystick itself is a little sloppy on movements and the shaft feels is too short due to the flange at the top. For normal games it's not so bad but I think I need to adjust it and put stronger springs in it. The left joystick is a baton type which I've never used before. I'm a huge fan of MCA's but I had no black ones left so used this out of a mame pack I'd bought ages ago. I'm actually quite surprised at how good it is and would definitely use them again if I had too. The panel has 6 player buttons each, Player 1 start, Player 2 start and Select & Escape buttons. The Select and Escape buttons are temporary until I grab some clear ones so I can print labels for them. Coin Inserts are supplied for P1 & P2 by using a custom made label and 12 volt LED rectangular buttons I had laying around. The spinner is a Turbotwist 2 that I got for christmas 2 years ago 😕 It is a fantastic piece of kit. USB interface, engineered to fit into a standard 28mm arcade button hole and has a range of options for knobs and wheels. I stuck with a reasonable std blue anodised knob with room for an insert. Many have mounted BYOAC tokens of which I have 100. I'd like to use an Aussie Arcade one 😉 I also added the energy storage cylinder which is effectively a steel piece that fits to the base and lets inertia keep spin going for a LONG time. It works REALLY well. You can check them out here: http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=268 The spinner really comes into it's own for the games I've tried it on so far. Tempest and Arkanoid are simply awesome. Cameltry is now an extremely enjoyable game. Star Trek which I only ever play in Sydney's George st arcades in the 80's brings a tear to my eye 😉 Sure it's not in the original environmental cab but I can now play it properly. Other games I've played so far are Blasteroids, Cosmic Chasm, a few other racers and finally Tron. If the Top Fire joystick was restricted to 4 way (it does come with a restrictor) Tron would play much better. Spinner wise though it's perfect. What I need to do is wire in one of David's digital restrictors.....a project for another day. Bare Spinner Blue Anodised Knob 6" Steering wheel The steering wheel is well made and works great but is limited without pedals. Works really well on 360deg driving games such as Pole Position, Sprint, Super Sprint etc but gear changes etc are an issue. What I've done is use the top fire as a gear stick and the top fire button as the accelerator until I get my Pole Position cab rebuilt. I mainly bought the wheel for unknown future uses and due to the fact that shipping separately at a later date was going to cost a bundle. Here's a shot of the bare bones PC components. Using a old GeForce 4 video card and Soft 15khz. Works great on this dodgy old arcade monitor. You can probably see the mini amp up the back. That's a $9.00 Ebay special and interfaces to an old set of car audio speakers. Currently trying out Maximus Arcade as the FE but having a few issues with it. It works but seems to have a few niggles with extra buttons and long delays on exiting games :unsure I'll see if I can tweak it some more and if not ditch it for good old Mamewah or Mala. Still to be done on this cab, tidy the wiring up, new artwork/marquee and I need to purchase decent bolts for the control panel and joysticks. The ones I have used are rat-shit. Oh and one last thing. Just a note to any boofheads like myself. If your using a laser mouse to setup your Mame Cab, stay away from using red cocktail stools as a platform. It took me about 3 hours to dawn on me why it didn't work.......the damn mouse laser is also red and obviously the red laser was being absorbed by the red stool. I didn't realise the spectrum was so wide :lol Cheers, Brad
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