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Found 6 results

  1. Hey, Designed by a buddy of mine and tested by myself. Available is a new complete ready to install Tempest Atari Protection board. These are compatible with the Atari P314s deflection boards and will provide much needed additional protection for the XY monitors. You needed / could / should of MOD the deflection board to fix / improve these games, an individual named "FRANK'S CRANKS" by Frank "The Crank" Seninsky provided information needed to fix these Deflection boards. The good news is that this is now build into the new protection board. Installation instructions will be provided upon purchase and is very easy to install. Pricing shipped $35 anywhere in Australia. - Con
  2. Been a while since I've posted an arcade project and I really wanted to test the new forum software. This cab has been sitting in my garage for years as a long non-started project. I recently took a couple of days off (in lockdown) and decided it finally needed some love. Originally a container import out of Italy, it arrived non working. Italian Gaming Licence ID: 0 There was no life in the 35 year old Hantarex Power Supply rattling around loose in the cab and the Orion tube/chassis would also not fire up. Knowing virtually nothing about the electronics on those particular parts, combined with the age and state of them I ended up removing them from the cabinet. 0 I gave the cabinet a thorough clean as I'd never seen one like this and I loved the artwork and style of the cabinet. I had to repair the front frame of the monitor mount. Its made out of MDF and in glued and screwed into the sides but has started to collapse. I ended up filling it with MDF glue, clamping it back into shape and letting it set overnight. I think its stronger than new now 😉 0 Unholy of holies I have a stash of 19" CRT PC monitors so I decased one and slotted it into the chassis frame. A little diligence in cutting some of the plastics and it fit like a glove. Yeah yeah I know Arcade Tubes are far and away better and several of my other cabs sport them but I was in lockdown with no access to any other parts so sue me 😉 The control panel is covered with a sheet of acrylic now as the original underneath has many marks from cigarette burns. Notice the cigarette holder on the right. That'd never fly in Australia. I gave it all a good clean, removing the rusted bolts and giving them the treatment. The treatment being locked into a cordless drill and spun against some finishing paper. Then undercoated and sprayed black. As usual they came up really well. The cigarette holder was removed and polished. The bolts for those were also rusted but I sanded them and then clearcoated to prevent them rusting up again. I'd retained the jamma harness and all of the micro-switch connections had been soldered on. Good practice but a bitch for replacement and maintenance. I was lucky in that there were no broken connections. I re-built and old Dell PC I have a few of. Windows 7, Mame and MalaFE all configured and ready to go then interfaced it all with a J-Pac. Hands down the easiest way to get your controls running. Some test drives, configuring a few of the controls at a global level and everything is working as expected. Another advantage of the J-Pac is the Shift Key function so I don't have to drill holes and add extra buttons for Exit and Coin Inserts. Further to this the coin mechs were still all wired up to the harness and dropping a 50 euro cent coin into the slots triggers a credit. Love it although I only have 5 of the coins. Thinking about modifying them to use the 100 custom tokens I have but with the J-Pac's shift keys it would purely be a novelty. Note the Price on the Inserts. I do need to replace the bulbs in there so they look nicely backlit. (Note this photo is before I cleaned it all) I've configured the PC to start up after power loss and MalaFE to start up with Windows. The cab has a power socket on the top with a fused switch. I wired that into a 4 port powerboard that I mounted inside the cab. This powers the monitor, PC and eventually a flourescent tube for the marquee. The original was practically disintegrating. Unfortunately the marquee (glass) was broken. So I scanned it with a flatbed scanner and have been restoring the image after I vectorised it. It's almost complete and I'll send it off to be printed on a new acrylie marquee to fit. Things to complete: All up this cab has 3 locks on it. The Coin Door, The door to the cointray and the back panel which is metal. I'm going to purchase 3 that are keyed alike Install marquee light Get Marquee printed There is also a mount for a volume control. I'll be installed one of DavidAVD's in-line volume controls into that in the next few days which will allow me to control the volume on the original single jamma powered speaker. There is a chunk of chipboard missing from the top. I'm of two minds on whether to repair it or not. All up I'm very happy with the result and it plays really well. I customised the Layout file with my name 😉 Note you can see the wall behind it as I haven't put the back panel back on yet. Its outside after being cleaned. Cheers, Brad
  3. Another instance of checking an unfinished project off my list. I still have the pinball to go but this one is easy and that one is hard 😉 This one should be real quick. I bought this ArcadeWorx cab of @namastepat back in February. It's surprisingly large, taking up a lot of space on my garage floor so time to get it working and sitting somewhere else. https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/92614-Arcadeworx-Bartop-cabinet-with-19-inch-monitor-75?highlight=bartop Cabs is a little banged up with a few nicks but over all pretty good. All black and I love the Space Invaders cut-outs in the marquee area. So I thought I'd continue with the Space Invaders theme and keep the cab Black and Red. It didn't hurt that I had a pack of both red and black buttons 😉 I'd also bought a power supply and jamma harness to match the Pandora 4S I bought back in April. I installed the buttons and joysticks. Will need to check the controls for the Pandora to see if I need the other 3 holes. I'll use what I need and try to find some of those caps to cover any not used. Also the top row holes are smaller than the player button holes 😞 The P1 and P2 buttons I used (STD size) will never come out again LOL! Installed speakers inside the audio cut-outs. The IEC socket I have is not round like the hole that had been cut out 😞 Traced around and then did a little free-styling with my jigsaw. The flange on the socket hides the shoddiness 😄 Wired mains socket, power supply and jamma harness power. I then fired it up to see if smoke would come out. Success! Damn I love how fast these Pandora's boot up unlike those shitty 60-1 jobs. It was getting late so I'll finish wiring in the joysticks and buttons next weekend. One last thing was to mount the fan cover into the top. The Alien one I had suits the theme. With the top cut-out I've love to put in some acrylic and then an LED strip that swipes from left to right. Not sure how I'd do that but lit up red and sliding across would be awesome. I also need to source some black t-molding as the control panel strip is missing. I am bummed its a widescreen monitor but the bezel was cut to match and the screen came with it so I can't complain. Cheers, Brad
  4. I've had this machine sitting neglected in my garage for almost 2 years. Had the parts just not the inclination but over christmas the bug got hold of me and I started working on it. The cab is an old LAI Rampage cab: http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=9261 There was no board, jamma harness, control panel, coin mech's or artwork included. What was included was the original 19" arcade monitor, power supply, fluro light and dodgy mame marquee. I started by creating a new control panel. The original was a 3 player setup but I've built this with 2 players in mind and a centre spinner. As my art skills are non-existant, in the short term I built the panel out of ply and stained and varnished it. Sure not original or normal but it came up okay with the result below: As you can see the player 2 joystick is a top fire as I wanted to be able to play Tron, Battlezone and Two Tigers easily. I'm sure there are other games with possibly doubling the top fire button as a push pull option for games like Discs Of Tron and Frontline. The Top Fire is a normal 8way stick with a modified shaft and top button. I have to say that the joystick itself is a little sloppy on movements and the shaft feels is too short due to the flange at the top. For normal games it's not so bad but I think I need to adjust it and put stronger springs in it. The left joystick is a baton type which I've never used before. I'm a huge fan of MCA's but I had no black ones left so used this out of a mame pack I'd bought ages ago. I'm actually quite surprised at how good it is and would definitely use them again if I had too. The panel has 6 player buttons each, Player 1 start, Player 2 start and Select & Escape buttons. The Select and Escape buttons are temporary until I grab some clear ones so I can print labels for them. Coin Inserts are supplied for P1 & P2 by using a custom made label and 12 volt LED rectangular buttons I had laying around. The spinner is a Turbotwist 2 that I got for christmas 2 years ago 😕 It is a fantastic piece of kit. USB interface, engineered to fit into a standard 28mm arcade button hole and has a range of options for knobs and wheels. I stuck with a reasonable std blue anodised knob with room for an insert. Many have mounted BYOAC tokens of which I have 100. I'd like to use an Aussie Arcade one 😉 I also added the energy storage cylinder which is effectively a steel piece that fits to the base and lets inertia keep spin going for a LONG time. It works REALLY well. You can check them out here: http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=268 The spinner really comes into it's own for the games I've tried it on so far. Tempest and Arkanoid are simply awesome. Cameltry is now an extremely enjoyable game. Star Trek which I only ever play in Sydney's George st arcades in the 80's brings a tear to my eye 😉 Sure it's not in the original environmental cab but I can now play it properly. Other games I've played so far are Blasteroids, Cosmic Chasm, a few other racers and finally Tron. If the Top Fire joystick was restricted to 4 way (it does come with a restrictor) Tron would play much better. Spinner wise though it's perfect. What I need to do is wire in one of David's digital restrictors.....a project for another day. Bare Spinner Blue Anodised Knob 6" Steering wheel The steering wheel is well made and works great but is limited without pedals. Works really well on 360deg driving games such as Pole Position, Sprint, Super Sprint etc but gear changes etc are an issue. What I've done is use the top fire as a gear stick and the top fire button as the accelerator until I get my Pole Position cab rebuilt. I mainly bought the wheel for unknown future uses and due to the fact that shipping separately at a later date was going to cost a bundle. Here's a shot of the bare bones PC components. Using a old GeForce 4 video card and Soft 15khz. Works great on this dodgy old arcade monitor. You can probably see the mini amp up the back. That's a $9.00 Ebay special and interfaces to an old set of car audio speakers. Currently trying out Maximus Arcade as the FE but having a few issues with it. It works but seems to have a few niggles with extra buttons and long delays on exiting games :unsure I'll see if I can tweak it some more and if not ditch it for good old Mamewah or Mala. Still to be done on this cab, tidy the wiring up, new artwork/marquee and I need to purchase decent bolts for the control panel and joysticks. The ones I have used are rat-shit. Oh and one last thing. Just a note to any boofheads like myself. If your using a laser mouse to setup your Mame Cab, stay away from using red cocktail stools as a platform. It took me about 3 hours to dawn on me why it didn't work.......the damn mouse laser is also red and obviously the red laser was being absorbed by the red stool. I didn't realise the spectrum was so wide :lol Cheers, Brad
  5. I've had this bartop carcass in my garage for about 4 years now. Acquired it from Woka. Like many of us, too many projects and not enough time and/or motivation. As is normal with me I get to a point where I want to complete a project that I've put off for some time so I pick one and work on it until done. The biggest kicker for this is that I bought an arcade pack off Ebay pretty cheaply knowing it would suit this. It included 60-1 pcb, power supply, jamma harness, 12 player buttons, 1&2 player button, 2 joysticks, 2 speakers, speaker grills and 50 PCB mounts. Bare carcass here which didn't come with a back or control panel. So using a 19" 4:3 LCD monitor as the template I measured up to see how I could fit everything in. The 19" just fits vertically so I measure up some timber rails to mount both the control panel and rest the monitor on, then glued and screwed. Measured up a control panel and dicked around with control and button layout. Test fitting here. Made a rear door and fitted with a barrel lock. Also cut out a hole for the IEC power socket. Now most people opt for a Galaga based bartop or some sort of custom job. Me, I'm more partial to Galaxian so I've elected to go that way. Woka also included enough T-Moulding to fit this that matches the original Galaxian cab colour. Overall colours will also match so I'm going gloss white and then I'm going to get original artwork sized and printed. that will include Marquee, Control Panel, Sideart & Kick Plate. Not sure I'll bother with a bezel as it would only be the width of the monitor bezel which is 10mm. Now I suck mightily at graphics but I've managed to use Adobe Illustrator to modify the original Galaxian control panel artwork to suit my bartop. Original I printed off a sample on plain paper to ensure it fit and to my great surprise it fit perfectly, down to the button holes. Everything else will remain original, just re-sized to fit. Work to do next is another coat of undercoat and then start the gloss white paint job. And photos can go **** themselves. Doesn't matter how I rotate, they persist in coming out sideways :realmad: Cheers, Brad
  6. I picked this cab up from a Tip Shop a few weeks ago now. I was hoping it was working but they would not let me test it. I took it home anyway to rescue it. The locks had no keys so I had to drill them out. Once I got it open I sadly discovered that the 19" tube had been broken at the back and was not salvageable. The upside was the discovery of a 1942 PCB. I have no way to test it but still a nice find. I'm not sure I'm keeping this cab as I simply do not have the room so I might re-sell it after I've reconditioned it as much as I can with spare parts. First was stripping it down. I took all the metal parts out such as the hinged monitor door, control panel, bolts, rear handles, hinge and any outward facing bolts. A quick wipe down and vacuum got rid of all the old dust, debris and cobwebs from a long storaged machine. I threw the old monitor, yoke and chassis away as effectively useless for me. Stripped monitor door and control panel. A light sand of all steel components with fine grit sandpaper and then 3 coats of satin black spraypaint to bring the components back to new. I also sprayed all of the bolts so that they blend into the black timber panelling. The monitor plexi was held onto the door with double-sided tape which I had to carefully separate so that I did no damage or scratches. Once separated I then had to remove the tape from both parts. The rainbow colour on the plexi has been sprayed on from the back so I had to ensure that I removed the residue without lifting the paint which was successful. I'll put it back together using new double-sided tape once it's all done. The control panel was fitted with a single player setup. A black MCA joystick, 2 player buttons, Player 1 Start, Player 2 Start buttons and a small single button to the right. I suspect that this had been rigged as a credit insert button as it looks to me it had been sitting in someones home for years and there was no coin mech installed anywhere. The MCA was rat shit, so I've replaced it with a spare (I have about 14 of them). Unfortunately I don't have any black ones so I'm using a single yellow I had that matches the yellow in the panel. All of the buttons I'll reuse as they are all fine including the micro-switches. The credit button however will need to be replaced as the top has snapped off. I'll need to try and source one as I've never seen one of these before and I don't want to drill a bigger hole. You can see the restored top unit below. I spent some time wiring up a new power supply, jamma harness and 60-1 board. I decided to use the 60-1 as this cab was a vertical cab and the bezel and monitor shroud were being re-used. I'm a real weenie when it comes to electricity so was concerned about wiring mains 240 power to the arcade power supply but 2 youtube video instructions later and I re-wired a std power plug into the arcade power supply within 5 mins. Hooked up the jamma harness to 5volt, 12volt and ground points on it and test-fired the arrangement. The power supply, board and monitor all turned on, the board initialised and after the 60 second startup (why so damn long?) I had the iCade menu displaying and running. I tidied up all the wiring and used cable ties to neaten it all up. It always surprised me how much room there is in an arcade cab. Really the monitor takes up most of the room. I've gone with an LCD as it's the easiest for me to mount although I do have several spare 19" crt PC monitors hanging around if I feel the need to change it to a CRT look. I ended up modifying the monitor frame to accommodate the LCD. I also created a new internal bezel to suit using 3 ply and sprayed it black to blend it. Once bolted together the monitor sits nice and flush to the front door. I'm creating an instruction card to suit the unpainted space left in the exterior bezel that will fit flush. Unfortunately my colour printer is almost dead so I need to wait till after eater to print it at work before I can remount the exterior bezel. I'll upate this thread once done. Thanks to @Homepin and @DavidAVD knowledge and part I've also mounted a volume control onto the rear of the cab. This is wired in between the jamma harness speaker output and the speaker inside the cab. I've re-used the single speaker that was already in the cab and mounted the control knob into a std button hole that a previous owner had drilled into the back. It's come up pretty nice and fits really well. The back of the cab also had a large square cut-out that gave access to the old monitor yoke but there was no cover. I bought a grill piece, sprayed it black and mounted it. It looks pretty good. Front View minus exterior Bezel Now with bezel minus instruction card until I can get it printed. Apart from that all I really need to do is do something about the damaged sides. Not sure if its worth it or there is a cheats way but the laminate has a chunk out on the right and some deep scratches on the left. It does give it character. I also replaced the barrel locks. Cheers, Brad
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