Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 24

Thread: Battery Powered Taito Upright.

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    State
    Barden Ridge NSW
    Posts
    3,502
    Mentioned
    176 Post(s)
    Quoted
    1273 Post(s)
    Australia

    Battery Powered Taito Upright.

    This project has been on the books for a while now and now I have started. Idea is to convert my Taito 20" upright into a 12volt battery powered multi game upright arcade.

    You may ask, why?. A couple of answers to that question.

    I like doing things outside the square but the main reason is this machine will live at my farm that is solar powered and to run this machine on mains power means needing the generator going.

    So, I thought I can convert the screen to a 12volt LCD unit, yes, not a CRT but I'm not an arcade purist but at least I found a 4:3 aspect ratio LCD screen and it is 19" which is pretty close to the cabinet's original 20".

    Everything else in an arcade is either 5 or 12 volts excluding the title header lighting. It was originally a 110 volt fluro but I can convert that lighting to COB LED lighting. Something I have been using in a few other projects destine for farm use.

    I intend on putting a 12volt truck battery in a battery case in the back of the base of the machine to power the machine. It should be able to power the machine for many hours unplugged but if it runs low I can plug the machine into the many 12 volt outlets around the house. Mounted in the back on the base so when tilting the machine to move it. The battery will be over the wheels. These batteries are pretty heavy...170amp/hour battery.

    Battery is connected via a fuse power board to a PWM power supply. It is also connected to a solar regulator to regulate the solar panel's voltage for recharging and maintaining the battery voltage. Solar panel is on the farm's roof so a plug will be on the machine so the machine can be wheeled up and plugged in when needed to recharge or when I'm not there.

    The LCD panel will run off the fuse power board while it is still 12volts before going to the PWM power supply after which it is 5 volts.

    The 5 volts is used to power the multigame board and the coin slot lights.

    That's about it in theory.

    Now there is a bit more going on than that such as putting in a switch to select what input the monitor gets it's source from. While I am looking at using something like a HDMI output multi game board, (open to suggestions on that one), I would like to put an RPi with games feeding another one of the monitor's inputs but I need some help with the software side of that one.

    A volume control external on the cabinet that is discrete and doesn't change the appearance of the overall machine but can be easily be adjusted by the player.

    I'm seriously considering using a cupboard style push to open, push to close coin door lock and a panel just inside the door for mounting the volume pot and game select switches. That way the player control panel isn't cluttered but is easy for the user to access without needing a key.

    Anyway that is what I'm thinking. Any suggestions to make this thing better, more user friendly, likes /dislikes, or suggestions on game boards. Maybe ideas regarding the RPi installation, please have a say.

    Most of this is new to me so any input is more than welcome and appreciated. Thanks guys.


    Before.....




    Now.....

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    State
    Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    2,554
    Mentioned
    251 Post(s)
    Quoted
    499 Post(s)
    Australia
    Looks like you have most of it covered, are you planning on LEDs for the coin door lights?
    Namco Starblade - Taito Cocktail 14" x 3, 20" x 2 - NZ SI PtII Upright - Chase HQ DX, Taito Top Speed - Taito Grand Champion - Taito Safari - LAI SI Head to Head Cocktail - SI Cocktail Clone x 2, Pong Clone x 3

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    State
    Barden Ridge NSW
    Posts
    3,502
    Mentioned
    176 Post(s)
    Quoted
    1273 Post(s)
    Australia

    Quote Originally Posted by Kaizen View Post
    Looks like you have most of it covered, are you planning on LEDs for the coin door lights?
    I might try and source a COB LED for them because LEDs usually put a bright dot in the center of the insert where the COBs are much more spreed uniform light but if I can't source one the right size, normal LED it will be.

    https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_...&_sacat=126393

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    State
    Vic
    Posts
    620
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Quoted
    77 Post(s)
    nice cab, was the game board in it? (smash tv)
    Is this the 5 o'clock free crack give away?

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    State
    Barden Ridge NSW
    Posts
    3,502
    Mentioned
    176 Post(s)
    Quoted
    1273 Post(s)
    Australia

    Quote Originally Posted by danloads View Post
    nice cab, was the game board in it? (smash tv)
    Yes it did have Smash TV it. It was originally a Polaris but had many games go though it up to Smash TV. It was operated until it was pulled from operations and then is when I grabbed it still with the Smash TV board set in it.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    State
    Barden Ridge NSW
    Posts
    3,502
    Mentioned
    176 Post(s)
    Quoted
    1273 Post(s)
    Australia

    Getting there. Been repainting removable black parts and just a general clean up of parts.

    As this machine is all about using low power, the head box lighting was always going to need attention. It needs to run on low DC power rather than the original 120volt AC fluro seen here....



    I have replaced the fluro assemble with this that mounts on the same original mounting studs....



    Side by side comparison....





    Two COB LED arrays, they are the yellow parts with the wires connected to them, that replace the fluro for the lighting. The COBs are just the yellow pieces but these things run hot so I mounted them on some sheet aluminum and used some thermal paste to help dissipate some heat from the COBs. Not really needed but as with most electronics, the cooler it runs, the longer it lasts. They run on 3-3.5DC volts each and are wired in parallel. I get 3.2volts to run them from the 5vDC power supply. I then run this 5vDC through 3 diodes wired in series. Each diode drops .6volt like all silicon diodes, wire 3 in series drops 1.8volts, .6 volt per diode times 3, from the 5vDC leaving 3.2volts to run these COB LEDs without needing a separate 3.3vDC power supply. Simplicity is also what I am after.

    Testing using a 3.2 volt power supply to check for brightness....



    And finally put a title header in place to make sure it is suitable....



    Looks idea to me. Maybe a bit brighter than the original fluro. SO I think that will do for the header lighting. Runs on 3.2volts DC but only 260mA to drive both COBs when I tested with my ammeter which is nothing compared to the power usage for the fluro.

    Now the LED screen mounting. I replaced both slides the glass bezel sits on and then blocked in the frame to hold the 19" 4:3 aspect ratio screen....



    And inside the machine....



    That is pretty much what I'm up to.

    I have a couple of questions for you arcade guys....

    What is the most suitable joystick, button combo to use on a multi game arcade board that can play "most" games?.

    And if I fit in more than one multi game board or something like a RPi running games, can I use the same joystick button combo control panel and just swap the button/ joystick ground wire between the multi game boards and the RPi so the whole control panel wiring doesn't need to be swapped over?.

    I would much prefer to just have a switch controlling the ground than swapping the whole control panel wiring harness over to swap game sources.
    Last edited by Autosteve; 3 Weeks Ago at 09:39 PM.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    State
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    11,515
    Mentioned
    188 Post(s)
    Quoted
    1434 Post(s)
    Australia
    Joysticks are all about personal preference. That being said you want a joystick that's suitable for most games whic means it should be switchable between 4 way and 8 way. The most convenient way is a physical switch. This can be achieved is a number of ways.

    Either with a mechanical solution or software solution.

    For mechanical my go to is the Mag Stick Plus. I love them as you switch by lifting the joystick and twisting 90 degrees which then mechanically limits to either. The magstick with ball top is fantastic but many claim its too heavy and stiff.

    Software is a board by David AVD in which you use a physical switch to swap between 4 way and 8 way. I have both.

    The beauty of this solution is that you can wire it to your favourite joystick instead.

    Cheers,

    Brad

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    State
    Barden Ridge NSW
    Posts
    3,502
    Mentioned
    176 Post(s)
    Quoted
    1273 Post(s)
    Australia

    Quote Originally Posted by Brad View Post
    Joysticks are all about personal preference. That being said you want a joystick that's suitable for most games whic means it should be switchable between 4 way and 8 way. The most convenient way is a physical switch. This can be achieved is a number of ways.

    Either with a mechanical solution or software solution.

    For mechanical my go to is the Mag Stick Plus. I love them as you switch by lifting the joystick and twisting 90 degrees which then mechanically limits to either. The magstick with ball top is fantastic but many claim its too heavy and stiff.

    Software is a board by David AVD in which you use a physical switch to swap between 4 way and 8 way. I have both.

    The beauty of this solution is that you can wire it to your favourite joystick instead.

    Cheers,

    Brad
    I was just going to throw in some MCA joysticks and buttons as I have miles of them. I was asking more about the layout of them. Should I go standard Street Fighter configuration, joystick two rows of three buttons. Will this configuration do most games?. Never wired a multi board before nor owned one so I have no idea.
    Really interested in the idea of swapping the button and joystick ground wire from one game board to another. Will this allow the same buttons and joysticks to control both game boards?.
    I can run one multi board on say the VGA screen input on the monitor and if I manage to get an RPi running RetroPi using say the HDMI screen input, I figure I can simply switch that on the screen input button but can I swap the joystick/ button panel outputs simply swapping the joystick and button ground wire?.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    State
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    11,515
    Mentioned
    188 Post(s)
    Quoted
    1434 Post(s)
    Australia
    If you use a large multi-board then two rows of 3 buttons for each player.

    All the multi-boards are Jamma so std jamma harness meaning swapping boards they should all work the same. a 60-1 only uses 2 player buttons except for one game which uses 3 (Gunsmoke) from memory.

    If you went the RPi you'd need Deezers version with the Jamma interface. As long as you configure the controls in the same way as the jamma boards then again from a control perspective it will work.

    Brad

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    State
    Brisbane, QLD
    Posts
    2,554
    Mentioned
    251 Post(s)
    Quoted
    499 Post(s)
    Australia
    One thing to consider, both boards will run pull ups to each switch, the power supplies are on the same ground. You will be putting 5v to each of the switch outputs on both boards. Depending on how each board is designed internally you may have issues. Less than likely but possible. Blocking diodes on each button/joystick input would guarantee you dont.
    Namco Starblade - Taito Cocktail 14" x 3, 20" x 2 - NZ SI PtII Upright - Chase HQ DX, Taito Top Speed - Taito Grand Champion - Taito Safari - LAI SI Head to Head Cocktail - SI Cocktail Clone x 2, Pong Clone x 3

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Taito Space Invaders L shaped Taito upright
    By tevo in forum Arcade Technical and Repair Questions
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 19th February 2019, 04:17 PM
  2. Battery powered to power supply?
    By Dannymh in forum General Chat
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 29th June 2011, 01:31 PM
  3. Taito upright SI
    By peely in forum Arcade
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 27th June 2010, 03:56 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •