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Thread: STERN COSMIC PRINCESS RESTORATION

  1. #21
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    Oh and Iíve sent the boards off to Ken, hopefully they arenít too hacked...🤞


    Sent from my iPad using Aussie Arcade

  2. #22
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    UPDATE:

    Righto, done s whole lot of things since my last update:

    Got the boards back from Ken plus the missing sound board Looks like heís done a great job but the ďbig power upĒ will be the true test. He had a fair bit of work to do on the driver board particularly, he reckons it had been stripped for parts at some stage. I noticed there were a bunch of transistors missing when I packed it up to be sent away.
    The best improvement he made was to add an LED battery to the MPU board (which holds the high scores) the old oneís are notorious for leaking and causing corrosion. Anyhoo, should be all sweet now!🤞

    IMG_1668.jpg


    Metal playfield parts have been soaked in vinegar for a couple of days then polished with Autosol. Theyíve come up nicely. Iíve also done the lock down bar (which has come up ok and will do for now).

    Image1560503837.890106.jpg

    Playfield has been given a serious clean as well, a three step process:

    Image1560504197.567613.jpg

    I primarily used the flour and isopropyl alcohol method to remove the mylar glue which worked a treat:

    Image1560504015.920484.jpg

    Image1560504038.921319.jpg

    I then cleaned the playfield with Shellite (Naptha). For the record, I had a go at removing ball swirl marks with Novus #2 but it didnít really make a difference. I have read you can remove these marks with isopropyl alcohol and a magic eraser but it can take off paint Iíll live with them for now methinks.....
    Finally, I waxed the playfield twice with Meguiars Caranuba Wax. I realise it is not always necessary to wax twice but I felt that after many years of neglect she deserved it! It really looks and feels great. Canít wait to flip...

    Image1560504706.347308.jpg

    Image1560504729.369536.jpg


    Sent from my iPad using Aussie Arcade

  3. #23
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    Great work on this pinball mate..
    She has come up well..

    Looking really nice............



    Sent from my SM-G950F using Aussie Arcade mobile app

  4. #24
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    Wow ! That playfield looks great now!
    I have had success using tea tree oil to get rid of ball swirl in the past.

    Look forward to more pics of your progress.


    Sent from my SM-A520F using Aussie Arcade mobile app

  5. #25
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    Just visiting from your tech support thread on the game. Looking forward to the day I can bring mine out of storage and work on it but until then, seeing your game pictures bring me a smile

    I have an updated ROM for the game that fixes a factory spinner scoring bug, removes some of the dead ends in the game and adds some other features. PM me if you're interested.

  6. #26
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    STERN COSMIC PRINCESS RESTORATION

    Hi all, good to be back on the updating!

    UPDATE AUGUST 2019:

    Itís been a while since Iíve got back to documenting this resto, mainly because Iíve been spending my spare time working on it!

    Sooo, I pulled the coin door apart, took the legs off and soaked them all in the vinegar bath to get rid of the rust. I painstakingly photographed the dismantling of the coin door as it was quite the jigsaw puzzle!
    Image1566101606.786537.jpg
    Image1566101631.038610.jpg

    The coin door also needed a few extra days in the bath as I realised it had been sprayed with silver paint and started to flake away. After a number of days I ended up using paint remover and it accelerated the process considerably! Both bits came up very nicely, not perfect, but aged and presentable, just the way I likes it!

    IMG_2115.jpg


    Fixed the lock down bar as well, the handle was missing but I found it rattling around in the cabinet. After a vinegar soak and metal polish it works really well, very toit!


    I also made some new spinner decals, the left one was very worn and the right one was non existent. I photographed the old ones, Photoshopped the hell out of it and printed out new ones on sticker/decal paper. I only had the matte type around and (although it still looks pretty good I reckon) Iíll get full gloss if I have to redo them. I also think they will wear away quite quickly, so in the future Iíll either put Mylar over the top as well or make mini stencils and attempt painting....

    IMG_2140.jpg



    Next I tackled the drop target bank. I knew this was gong to be a mission and that it would need some serious love being such an integral part of the game. I havenít owned a machine where the targets are coil controlled and I love the concept.

    When I pulled it apart I primarily found bits not screwed down properly and screws missing.

    Image1566102531.567623.jpg


    I also found that the 4th and 5th target were missing their clevis pins. The 4th was affixed with a cable tie and the fifth loose!

    Image1566102631.725598.jpg

    I had trouble sourcing clevis pins of this size locally so I sorted a work around from a hardware store. Hopefully the e-clip and screw will suffice until I order the correct parts....

    Image1566102679.531427.jpg

    IMG_1963.JPG






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    Last edited by Muzac; 18th August 2019 at 01:11 PM.

  7. #27
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    Next it was time to rebuild the flippers, always satisfying and probably the most important part of the machine in my humble opinion!

    I had pulled all the old bits off a few weeks back and discovered one of the flipper bats was cracked. I ordered flipper bats and flipper rebuild kits from RTBB. It all installed without too much of a fuss except one of the coils wouldnít give up itís coil sleeve without a fight. Mustíve overheated at some stage but a bit of careful sanding did the trick. Coil tests ok so hopefully itíll be good looking forward🤞


    IMG_2164.jpg
    IMG_2165.jpg

    Then I got into the fun part, putting all the bits back onto the playfield. It was a great night, I scoured through my reference pics and re-attached the bits back in while my wife played Donkey Kong and lots of Cactus Jackís. Many drinks were had and the playfield was re-populated successfully.


    IMG_2205.jpg

    Now to push forward to the big power up. I made an executive decision to replace the rectifier board. All knowledgeable pinball techs seem to think that this is ďtheĒ board in this era of machine that is always worth replacing. This was an easy experience, the RTBB kit sent with the board was excellent. It included connectors, stressing how important it is to repin and change them.

    IMG_2130.jpg

    On the more cosmetic side of things I wanted to prevent the backglass from degrading further. Itís in an ďokĒ condition but the ladies are looking a bit scaly! My father-in-law is a excellent picture framer and has a hot press that can melt plastic onto glass (amongst other things). I did a similar thing when I restored my Sinbad a few years back and it worked a treat.

    You basically cut out a sheet of this specialised plastic film and place it over the rear of the glass. You then lay it in the machine and (like the name suggests) it vacuum seals and heats at the same time.

    This particular plastic film melts and then sticks down as it cools. Itís a pretty stressful process to watch and worry is that the pressure will crack the glass. Luckily Murray is an expert at his craft and knows how to approach it cautiously. Total legend!

    IMG_2145.jpg

    He also came up with an elegant solution for the display windows. I find this process isnít exact and that the film tends to wrinkle a bit. Itís fine generally but Iíve always been a bit displeased with the display windows on my Sinbad because of this. So Murray cut out rectangles of paper and we melted the plastic over the top. They were then expertly cut out with a sharp razor blade and voila! No plastic film remains.

    IMG_2150.jpg


    Then the moment of truth/the big power up arrived! I put all the boards back in (thanks @Skybeaux) and the sweet new LED displays from Tangles.......
    SUCCESS! No explosions or fire, we have lights and sound and some working coils!

    IMG_2168.jpg

    The backglass will probably need replacing at some stage but it will do for now in all itís flaky glory!

    IMG_2169.jpg

    Now that we have power, the new problems begin:

    Display are all over the place, flickering and displaying odd numbers
    Flippers work but only a selection of playfield coils active when hit
    Self test button doesnít work
    Rectifier board blows display fuse on power up (yet displays still work??)
    Outhole wonít kick out the ball into the shooter lane



    Fast forward to today (Sunday 18th August) and extremely pleased to say that to date I have ironed out all these issues! Hooray!
    No small thanks to all the great techs and contributors on the wonderful Aussie Arcade forum. They were so unbelievably helpful I am at a loss to adequately thank them

    Rectifier display fuse blowing:

    I am 98% sure this is a short from the transformer itself
    I had a loose lug on the transformer that I was concerned about that appears to be directly related to this circuit.
    Lucky for me I apparently donít need it (or the fuse) thanks to the new LED displays that donít require as much power as the old gas ones
    I donít fancy messing with a transformer in a hurry but have earmarked this to address in the future.

    Self Test Button:

    One thing I have learnt a lot about in this process is the importance of understanding schematics. I now have a far greater grasp of how to trace wire diagrams from the component to the backbox etc and boy howdy it saves sooo much time! (I know thatís the idea!)
    I have also learnt that if you are careful you can get into the self test without the use of the button at a pinch. This was achieved by attaching a crocodile clip to the ground braid and briefly touching the other end to pin 1 of connector J3 on the MPU.

    IMG_2222.jpg

    After testing for continuity I primarily discovered that a squashed pin in the Molex connector by the coin door was interrupting the signal flow. I hard wired this connection (for now) and that wire tested positive in continuity (I will repin the connector when I get the new bits.)
    I traced both wires back to the head box and re-pinned the respective connector pins.
    The button itself looked a bit iffy as did the wiring.
    At first I re-attached the wires and affixed with new solder but that didnít work.
    I was the. advised on the AA forum (cheers @Autosteve!) to replace the switch entirely as they arenít very good quality.
    Once I did all this the buttons worked!




    Sent from my iPad using Aussie Arcade

  8. #28
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    STERN COSMIC PRINCESS RESTORATION

    Coil problems:

    This is a cautionary tale.
    When I initially re-pinned all the connectors on the rectifier board I painstakingly copied the old ones wire by wire to make sure I didnít screw it up. I (surprisingly) didnít screw theta up up but the original connector must have been plugged in slightly offset. So it was basically shifted one pin to the left not neatly lined up with the male pins like you would expect🤯
    This was pointed out to me when I posted a pic (tanks @wiredoug!) and was causing the under playfield coil fuse to blow. This fix brought the coil circuit back to life.

    I still had odd things happening though... In the coil test only a few would fire and some were firing more than once under different coil numbers.
    After consulting the oracle (AA) the chant again was ďconnectors, connectors!Ē
    I was advised to repin the main players in this circuit (J4 on the MPU and SDB)


    Huzzah! All the coils worked........except one....the outhole kicker

    This was a very frustrating problem I had the game basically all working except it wouldnít kick out the ball into the plunger lane and also wouldnít register ball two upon draining.
    It was intermittent also, the best type of issue! Sometimes it would kick the ball one out and other times it wouldnít. It would then work fine for a game and then totally stop working.
    When it didnít kick the ball out the drop target bank would reset and over.
    I initially thought (as did others) that the outhole switch was to blame. I plugged it out of the machine and it tested fine. I put a new diode on it and re-attached the wires (I also did this with another start target switch that wasnít working (while I was in the neighbourhood).


    This immensely helped the reliability of the switches, the star rollover was brought back to life and they both tested positively in the switch test. The outhole problem still remained.
    So after checking the wiring and switches, I was advised to look at the boards (thanks again @Quench you guru!).
    Looking at the outhole kicker circuit there is a transistor, diode and resistor that can fail in the chain.
    Eureka! It turned out that the diode had developed a cold solder joint (no doubt thanks to my freezing shed where it lives &#129398. I reflowed the solder on both sides of the board and the problem was solved!


    I now have a functioning, beautiful pinball machine! My lovely wife and I gave it a thrashing last night and the outhole kicker didnít skip a beat!

    I can summarise the lesson from this whole experience in three words:

    Connectors, connectors, CONNECTORS!

    The importance of repinning connectors on a pinny project has been drilled into me throughout this whole process.

    I have also worked out that my display issues will be solved by repinning J1 on the MPU, one of the few connectors I have left to repin.....


    I am extremely pleased to get to this point but I still have work to do:

    The game is waaay to easy and needs to be set-up correctly. I jacked up the legs as high as they could go and the pitch is still only 5.5 degrees. It may be my shed floor but I think wood chocks are in order...
    There is a stuck switch that needs addressing. It gives you many points without doing anything (I suspect rollover no#5).
    Plunger spring needs replacing, my Bunnings solution is to strong!
    The incandescent lamps need to be replaced with LEDís, only 80% of globes are working currently.
    A custom rubber kit would be good. I cobbled together enough rubbers from my collection but they arenít all correct and itís causing game quirks that are annoying!
    Repro backglass, I have an idea in the pipelines for this.......


    Again, a huge thanks to all the great people on this forum. (Especially @Quench who is still giving me advice and assistance). The pinball community is a welcoming and friendly and I love being a part of it!

    Still much to do, onwards and upwards! Cheers.

    (FYI good people Iím having trouble posting photos now and will have to look at posting a final glorious pic when it starts working again!)












    Sent from my iPad using Aussie Arcade

  9. #29
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    Re the game being waaaay to easy, just take out the posts above the inlane/outlane wire guides. I did this one mine and it is now as tough as Paragon. I absolutely love it this way. I have also set specs to 100K. Also juice up the spinners, balance them and put silicon spray on the fulcrum. When lit for 2k one can score 60-80K on a good spin, this balances the game nicely and makes the 1-5 kanes worth going for. It is a ripper game this tough.

    Whatís yr plan w the backglass, Iím in need, as is a mate in Adelaide.

  10. #30
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    STERN COSMIC PRINCESS RESTORATION

    Only just realised it is you, Zac! If this is going in your bar, then take the posts out as I suggest but set it to 5 ball (ball times will be v short) and make specs worth a credit, with no limit on them (but limit max credits in general settings to 5). This way you will get people hooked with the rush of winning free games. This is the machine I learnt on as a 12yo and boy did I get hooked on the sight of that bright red light. Better than sex!

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