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Williams Black Knight Restoration


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Ok my first crack at replacing capacitors. Can anyone confirm that I’ve done these with the correct orientation? Thanks

 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190424/a81ceeefd1355356488974b8f7b35621.jpg

 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190424/f4185330b6da142f8a12148b51050656.jpg

 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190424/39b4d22baeb224dd233aa0780ac8a09d.jpg

 

 

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When you remove the old parts give the board a good scrub to get the 40 years worth of grott off of it.

Don't put nice new parts on a filthy board, also try to make the leads nice and straight, as it looks much better with straight leads.

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+1 clean the board first. As for the component leads, lay the part on the board where they go dead between the solder holes. Now you know exactly where to bend the leads to suit the holes. Long nose pliers and bend the leads in line with the solder holes at 90 degrees.

 

Now you can start going for a better job like lining all the cap value writing so they all face up ways when installed.

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Looking for these drop targets if anyone can help. Be nice to have new ones as these look a bit daggy. I can see Marco has them but prefer Aussie sellers if possible.

 

c8b5d8534cd7e63527eb93ef32a7c378.jpg

 

 

 

 

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I wouldn't be to worried about the targets as they look quite good to me and they NEVER break anyway and they have stickers on there faces. You will have your hands full keeping the horseshoe contacts working for long periods of time though. Maybe in a household situation you should get some reliability out of the horseshoes but on site they were very unreliable.

 

As quoted by Steve Ritchie regarding the first 10 FirePower prototypes that had horseshoe drop targets....

 

Steve comments about the prototype version:

 

The first 10 games we built had 2 3-banks of drops in place of the standups. They were so crappy that they were making the game unreliable, so we went with the standups for production. It was a smart move. If we had good drop targets it would have sold 20,000, but it wasn't working long enough to earn anything with the bad drops....

 

Other Williams machines that definitely lost money from using these horseshoe drop targets... TriZone, Time Warp, Jungle Lord, Pharaoh to name a few. They were so bad, us as a group of players would only have one of us play these machines on site first time around just to test if the targets were all working. If they worked we would all play a multi game.

I did do a modification "how to" for these targets somewhere on this forum to cure this problem.

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Actually Black Knight was the first Williams not to use the horse shoes. You have contacts, nearly as bad but they are better. My bad.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Actually Black Knight was the first Williams not to use the horse shoes. You have contacts, nearly as bad but they are better. My bad.

 

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/thumb/7/7e/WMS_Leaf_Drops.JPG/547px-WMS_Leaf_Drops.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...
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You can buy flap wheels to put in the drill that are alternating pads of course scour pad (Scotchbrite) and light emery paper. These guys are used to "re-grain" stainless and work really well.
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You can buy flap wheels to put in the drill that are alternating pads of course scour pad (Scotchbrite) and light emery paper. These guys are used to "re-grain" stainless and work really well.

 

+1 for that advice, it will do the job perfectly. As for the broken weld joints that were then re-welded and that lead to the marks in the first place, if you find yourself ever in this position, (where the latch breaks free from the cover plate), don't attempt to weld it or braise or any of the multitude of other hacks I have seen in my lifetime as every process will mark the plate.

Just roof and gutter silicon is the way to do this repair. It does not mark because you are not putting heat into the stainless.

 

The way I do this repair is a good thick bead of any brand roof and gutter silicon where the plates contact and making sure it doesn't move, clamp it hard and don't touch it for 7 days till the silicon has completely cured. Just make sure the surfaces are completely free of oil or other contaminates or the silicon simply won't stand a chance of sticking correctly.

 

Now the test. Clamp the locking part of the mechanism in a vice and see if you can reef the cover plate free. If done exactly as stated, you won't and probably won't be able to for 25 years till the silicon's warranty expires.

 

What I found is this repair is actually much stronger than the original welding process done by the factory. Just be absolutely certain you clamped it exactly were it needs to be or you are in for a major job fixing it.

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Hey Cejay, thanks for posting this thread. I’m enjoying your rapid progress. I’m yet to fully restore a pin but have done house renos, restored cars and previously restored antique furniture for a living. The process is always the same - start with enthusiasm, find heaps more work and expense than anticipated, regret starting, keep going anyway, then discover one day its finished and you are delighted with the results! Only problem is that every time I drop in on this thread I start singing Deep Purple’s ‘Black Knight’ and get that song stuck in my head for the next hour or so! Well done. Looking forward to seeing it finished.
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Thanks for the encouragement. There hasn’t been much progress to post here, been mostly cleaning each assembly and replacing coil sleeves etc.

 

I’m planning to send the playfield off to savage this week and will need to repair the cabinet. I have a friend working on vector graphics for the cabinet decals.

 

 

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Can anyone give advice on repairing the cabinet? I was thinking of clamping the 2 sides to pull it into place and then screwing in from the front of the cabinet into the sides after applying a heap of glue to the join.

 

Screwing in from the front is the only way I can think of to pull the join together. I’ll inset the screws and fill over the top so it will be flush for applying artwork.

 

f3832487b24aedd0a9c48c5c663cb8c3.jpg

 

 

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Same thing happened to my whitewater. Long sash clamps length of cabinet, and across ways as well. After the glue is in there, clamp/pull together, after that add fasteners. This way the cab should return to its dimension and be square again. You can borrow my long pinball length clamps if you need mate. Closing that gap to a minimum maximises the strength of the glued joint. My choice for glue was 2pak epoxy, araldite, because of its runny penetration into the gap and its bonding strength..
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Can anyone give advice on repairing the cabinet? I was thinking of clamping the 2 sides to pull it into place and then screwing in from the front of the cabinet into the sides after applying a heap of glue to the join.

 

Screwing in from the front is the only way I can think of to pull the join together. I’ll inset the screws and fill over the top so it will be flush for applying artwork.

 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190507/f3832487b24aedd0a9c48c5c663cb8c3.jpg

 

 

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First pull out all the loose broken timber. Don't even attempt to glue them back in place, it will stuff up your repair. Pop the corner completely apart and put in Liquid nails making sure you clean off the excess when it is still wet. So much easier to clean off when wet that dry, I think it is turps clean up but it is written on the tube. Now clamp it back together making sure the cabinet is square and if not, brace using diagonal pieces of wood to temporarily hold it square till dry.

 

Now add some steel....These at the bottom....

 

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/cabinet/legs/01-11400-1.html

 

Make sure to use not only screws to hold these but Liquid nails them in place as well, the LNs sticks well to the metal, very well actually.

 

The top of the cabinet corner I use a small corner metal bracket as well. Something like these work perfectly just making sure they are low enough not to fowl the playfield or anything else they may come in contact with and once painted in the corner, you can hardly spot them but they add enormous strength to the cabinet....

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/carinya-40-x-40-x-40-x-5mm-hot-dipped-galvanised-angle-bracket_p0046879

 

Once the cabinet is completely dry, any remaining gaps on the outside of the cabinet if any use PVA glue to make it look good cosmetically. It drys clear but can be painted over once dry.

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First pull out all the loose broken timber. Don't even attempt to glue them back in place, it will stuff up your repair. Pop the corner completely apart and put in Liquid nails making sure you clean off the excess when it is still wet. So much easier to clean off when wet that dry, I think it is turps clean up but it is written on the tube. Now clamp it back together making sure the cabinet is square and if not, brace using diagonal pieces of wood to temporarily hold it square till dry.

 

Now add some steel....These at the bottom....

 

https://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/cabinet/legs/01-11400-1.html

 

Make sure to use not only screws to hold these but Liquid nails them in place as well, the LNs sticks well to the metal, very well actually.

 

The top of the cabinet corner I use a small corner metal bracket as well. Something like these work perfectly just making sure they are low enough not to fowl the playfield or anything else they may come in contact with and once painted in the corner, you can hardly spot them but they add enormous strength to the cabinet....

 

https://www.bunnings.com.au/carinya-40-x-40-x-40-x-5mm-hot-dipped-galvanised-angle-bracket_p0046879

 

Once the cabinet is completely dry, any remaining gaps on the outside of the cabinet if any use PVA glue to make it look good cosmetically. It drys clear but can be painted over once dry.

 

Sorry Steve but metal brackets look shite.

Bunnings/hardware store angle brackets are the first thing i throw in the bin when starting a restore.

 

Agree to split the front open to clean out loose stuff and use liquid nails to glue back together but replacing the timber fillets gluing and stapling them in will not only be plenty strong enough but also look original.

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I’ve had three or four cabs that the entire front coin door timber piece has fallen out in my hands

 

ae08ce10c51f61f4d2841332dfc97daf.jpg

 

As suggested, clean all the loose timber off, test the fitting dry, even clamp up dry and make sure it fits well.

 

I use PVA and slap it on thick. Better to wipe off a saturated joint than wishing you had put more in.

 

Nail, screw and replace the original timber fillets with timber fillets...

 

It will be solid as....

 

aaf8b280426c31ee5edd90d335b34887.jpg

 

 

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