TAF from scratch

I had to flare my twd one slightly after powder coating. Although only a mm or so.

I put a small shifter on the outside vertical edges and just pulled them out slightly.

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Hey flex I just use a 100mm bench vice with timber and felt to adjust them. Looking at pics you may sneak it over ok.

Glad I'm not alone in the uh-oh cab building!

My last 2 I just did I opted for 18mm AB furniture ply for the exact reason of an extra 2-3mm internal for mirror blades.

All went smooth, added longer pivot nuts to be cautious, decals, glass slides, rails, went to fit pdi...oh boy, too much play! So now have to fit some thin shims in the rail guides or order 2 sheets of custom pdi. At the moment I went with new stock glass made 4mm wider. Thanks Homer for your help!!

Your project is looking great though, nice work.

It is nice knowing you have a fresh cab with mega strong construction though for that special project - that's for sure.

Also ditch those leg protectors and get a set off Railways.

You may still damage your nice decals with those type they are too thin from my experience.

Hey flex I just use a 100mm bench vice with timber and felt to adjust them. Looking at pics you may sneak it over ok.

 

Glad I'm not alone in the uh-oh cab building!

 

My last 2 I just did I opted for 18mm AB furniture ply for the exact reason of an extra 2-3mm internal for mirror blades.

All went smooth, added longer pivot nuts to be cautious, decals, glass slides, rails, went to fit pdi...oh boy, too much play! So now have to fit some thin shims in the rail guides or order 2 sheets of custom pdi. At the moment I went with new stock glass made 4mm wider. Thanks Homer for your help!!

 

Your project is looking great though, nice work.

 

It is nice knowing you have a fresh cab with mega strong construction though for that special project - that's for sure.

Yeah, I trial fitted my glass before cutting the slots for the guides, still had to use something to take up some spare movement though (5x1mm tape), but it worked out fine.

Hmm, if the vice trick works ok, than maybe I can get fancy with the shape of the blocks of timber I use to bend things..

Update: nope, cant make a regular one fit, its just to far off.

Will contact VirtuaPin and see if they can make what I need.

Update: nope, cant make a regular one fit, its just to far off.

Will contact VirtuaPin and see if they can make what I need.

What's the width internally of the lock down bar?

TAF from scratch

I had custom one made from virtual pin for my Dedpin build.

I’ve also seen a cut down one welded and higliy ground, sanded and polished that looked good.

Also agree, grab the railways thicker leg protectors.

Looking great.

Don’t ever stray from original sizing. Mirror blades always fit. It’s an optical illusion that they’re tight.

If you’re that worried, shave the sides of the playfield down a couple mm either side or slightly route the cab inside where the blades go to recesss them.

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Well, got word back from Paul at Virtuapin and yes, he can make one the size I need!! :041:

With the exchange rate and shipping it isn't cheap, but it should be spot on, so I am happy to go for it.

Now to get back on track with the rest of what needs doing!

Just take it to a engineering shop and get them to cut and widen it

Yeah but doing this will result in there being weld seams were its joined.

I'm just about to get my Oribitor1 back from "GreatScott!" restorations. It had a stern lockbar with factory join in the middle. Welded up and then ground and polished out looks great now.

GreatScott! Restorations.

That's an excellent name. @raysco, is this the official name? I like it :)

Time to tackle the transformer. This one was in one of the first container pin's I bought years ago. When I plugged it in smoke bellowed out of the cab! On further inspection I found the hack job done on the power cord, and learnt a lesson about double checking the wiring before plugging in...

Well, as these are like hen's teeth now, its time to try and reinstate this one back into service. First I have to fix up the cooked cabling, then I will clean it all up and give it a spray.

All done, fingers crossed the damage isn't any deeper than this!

Time to tackle the transformer. This one was in one of the first container pin's I bought years ago. When I plugged it in smoke bellowed out of the cab! On further inspection I found the hack job done on the power cord, and learnt a lesson about double checking the wiring before plugging in...

Well, as these are like hen's teeth now, its time to try and reinstate this one back into service. First I have to fix up the cooked cabling, then I will clean it all up and give it a spray.

 

https://i.imgur.com/4cJ49Ix.jpg

 

https://i.imgur.com/g70l0vV.jpg

 

All done, fingers crossed the damage isn't any deeper than this!

 

https://i.imgur.com/IEOOjV7.jpg

I'd be megger testing that before power is applied.

I'd be megger testing that before power is applied.

I was trying to measure the winding resistance but cant seem to find anything measurement wise for the primary winding side of these transformers.

Does anyone know what the resistance should measure for 230V pinouts? If not I may just plug in the input without any other connections and see what happens.

The cabinet wiring harness I got for this was actually out of a WCS94 (I remembered after scratching my head for a fair while), so there is plenty of difference's with connections, starting with the flipper button's. The wire colours seem to match ok though so hopefully it will work out. WCS94 uses opto flipper switches, which I must have known back when I purchased stuff for this build as I found a spare set with new plastic actuators :rolleyes . After checking around to make sure opto flippers are compatible with the game boards for this machine, it looked like a yes, but happy to hear from someone who may know better?

Replaced the molex connectors for the coin door board as these were completely different to WCS94, and also had to make the lead for the start button, light, door switch, plumb bob, for connection to the board.

chop all these off

Get rid of these switches

replace with opto's, find some matching wiring and hook everything up

I did clean up the tranny anyway, and give it a paint job so hopefully it runs ok.

I was trying to measure the winding resistance but cant seem to find anything measurement wise for the primary winding side of these transformers.

Does anyone know what the resistance should measure for 230V pinouts? If not I may just plug in the input without any other connections and see what happens.

 

These transformers are made up of a couple of windings that can be wired in series or parallel configuration depending on the local mains supply. From memory (always dangerous) you are looking at the 2 x 115V windings which should be in series config, setup by the associated plug pinning of the connector that plugs into the transformer mains in connector.

In the cabinet wiring diagram associated with the transformer you have it will indicate the appropriate colour combination to set it up for.

From memory again, (orange and white/black should be tied together) (usually around the middle of the wires for the primary)

mains then goes across (black and also white/orange. (typically on each end of the wires for the primary).

so effectively black and orange is 1 x 115V winding

white/black and white/orange is the other 115V winding.

Hope this helps, can measure the resistance when I get home, but if there is a shorted turn it may not be evident with this measurement and definitely wont show up if there is a short on the secondary.

cheers

These transformers are made up of a couple of windings that can be wired in series or parallel configuration depending on the local mains supply. From memory (always dangerous) you are looking at the 2 x 115V windings which should be in series config, setup by the associated plug pinning of the connector that plugs into the transformer mains in connector.

In the cabinet wiring diagram associated with the transformer you have it will indicate the appropriate colour combination to set it up for.

 

From memory again, (orange and white/black should be tied together) (usually around the middle of the wires for the primary)

mains then goes across (black and also white/orange. (typically on each end of the wires for the primary).

 

so effectively black and orange is 1 x 115V winding

white/black and white/orange is the other 115V winding.

 

Hope this helps, can measure the resistance when I get home, but if there is a shorted turn it may not be evident with this measurement and definitely wont show up if there is a short on the secondary.

 

cheers

Cheers for that! Yeah I measured both 115V windings and got 1 ohm for each. I am assuming a transformer doesn't follow ohm's law in its most basic form?

I am assuming a transformer doesn't follow ohm's law in its most basic form?

No it doesn't, google Back EMF. Motors are similar.

Plugged in the transformer and things seemed to be ok. A slight hum, and voltage's looked ok on the secondary side. Wont celebrate until everything is plugged in and running, but so far signs are good.

Finished off the cab wiring harness, and started on the headbox. Big thing was to install the playfield, yay!! :041::041:

Decals fitted to headbox.

And a sneaky little test look pic :) ..

Need to install everything in the headbox, and then its time to set it on the cab permanently.

Can you please do a photo with the lockbar on?

Sorry.. i know that was cruel

Can you please do a photo with the lockbar on?

 

 

 

Sorry.. i know that was cruel

Oh haha !! :o

Yes, I will when it arrives !! :cool:

Looks great.

You’d have to be happy with the results.

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Looking great! In regards to mirror blades with lifting play field up/down...the protectors from Mezelmods work well and are worth the investment

https://mezelmods.com/products/pinball-cabinet-assembly-blades

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