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TAF from scratch


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The great work continues. At this pace you'll be finished in a few weeks.

 

A quick question out of curiosity...why didn't you cut the coin door, rear of cabinet vents, and speaker hole before assembly?

 

Yeah, may even be spraying this weekend!

 

To tell you the truth, I have no idea when I first started leaving the cutting and drilling until after cab assembled :lol!! Just a habit I got into I guess.

I have found good and bad to both approaches, but the main one is that when its put together you have the whole picture right in front of you, which I prefer (less chance of screwing up perhaps? There are a lot of replicated holes/cuts across apposing pieces of timber, so more chance of picking up something before cutting), and also, you dont have to clamp/drill/cut/move/clamp/drill/cut etc, as its all solid and in place, Just mark and drill/cut.

This is how I justify it anyway :).

 

I have been meaning to ask you though, could you check the playfield pivot nut location on the side of the cab for me please? Could you measure its location from the front of the cab, and up from the bottom and let me know what you get? I have measurements for a getaway with the slider style type, but it has two so not sure if one of those lines up.

 

I’m in total awe of this thread, just read it front to back.

@FLEX....Is it too early to ask for dibs when you decide to sell it? :)

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Cheers mate! This will be in my collection for a long time, but will keep you in mind ;)

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Decided to tackle the headbox, starting with routing the groove for the back panel to fit in..

 

Nwub94P.jpg

 

Made sure to run a saw line through first at the right depth so there is a nice clean line to route to, otherwise the ply would probably splinter and chip.

 

R8bfg9u.jpg

 

Trial fit, and get dimensions for back panel to ensure neat fit.

 

UEtdgsE.jpg

 

rFvXl9r.jpg

 

Installing the details, made a bit of a blunder though, forgot to run a slot across the top panel before installing :realmad: . Will have to do this the difficult way now its glued..

 

hBDijo3.jpg

 

This is my working out drawing, if you can understand it your doing better than me :lol !!

 

76ejkUa.jpg

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Thanks for the reply. I haven't done anything like this before so was interested in the logic you've followed.

 

I have been meaning to ask you though, could you check the playfield pivot nut location on the side of the cab for me please? Could you measure its location from the front of the cab, and up from the bottom and let me know what you get? I have measurements for a getaway with the slider style type, but it has two so not sure if one of those lines up.

 

Sure I can measure a cab on the weekend but doesn't TAF use the pivoting hinge thingie rather than the sliders. The only cab I have with that style is Dr Who. That playfield might be lower in cab due to Time Expander. size. I'd strongly recommend getting bolt location measurements from a TAF as I'm pretty sure these holes varied a little bit in early WPC. I've previously been caught out with this between getaway and T2.

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Hey @FLEX what was the router bit used for your mitre joints? Can you get them locally?

Loving this thread btw.

 

Cheers!

The router bit is called a 'locking mitre' bit. It needs to be the version that does 3/4" wide timber (on the angled edge, as per middle one in the pic). I think I just got mine through ebay, it was a long time ago now.

I should add that you only need one bit to do both male and female edges for a corner. One edge is routed side on, and the other is routed end on, making sure angles are on the right side of the cab when doing so or you will have things facing the wrong way when you put them together ;) . I guess a better way to explain it is I have the router mounted in a bench, I put one panel through (the large side panels) laying flat on the bench, and I put the smaller (front and back) panels through standing up.

 

xr4ojqE.jpg

 

Thanks for checking @jono .

Yeah probably best to measure against a TAF. @Turbo27 could you check your TAF cab on the measurements for the PF pivot nut as described above by any chance please?

Edited by FLEX
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Great to see the cabinet making in progress. Nice work.

 

Only one I’ve done was for my virtual cab modelled off Judge Dredd with some custom changes.

 

Most of my mitre joints, I do the lot with a circular saw. Even the slots.

 

Recently did a new front for Cleopatra all with saw.

Really need to get router bits again.

 

I had measurements for the pivot hinge but would need to find them.

If you could wait until mid next week, I’ll be back and can get precise position as TAF still has the playfield out

And correct, it’s pivot point not sliders.

 

Keep the updates flowing.

Can’t wait until I only have one game at a time to do.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Cheers!

The router bit is called a 'locking mitre' bit. It needs to be the version that does 3/4" wide timber (on the angled edge, as per middle one in the pic). I think I just got mine through ebay, it was a long time ago now.

I should add that you only need one bit to do both male and female edges for a corner. One edge is routed side on, and the other is routed end on, making sure angles are on the right side of the cab when doing so or you will have things facing the wrong way when you put them together ;) . I guess a better way to explain it is I have the router mounted in a bench, I put one panel through (the large side panels) laying flat on the bench, and I put the smaller (front and back) panels through standing up.

 

https://i.imgur.com/xr4ojqE.jpg

 

Thanks for checking @jono .

Yeah probably best to measure against a TAF. @Turbo27 could you check your TAF cab on the measurements for the PF pivot nut as described above by any chance please?

 

This looks like it

 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lock-Miter-Router-Bit-Tenon-Milling-Cutter-Woodworking-Capenter-Tools-T-Slot-45/302711841531?hash=item467b0822fb:m:mREIsIZqbH965ullDtdcOCA&frcectupt=true

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Cabinet pivot points as requested.

NOT TO SCALE drawing.

Hope you can read my scribble.

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=150144

 

Awesome Trent, thankyou!! :cheers:

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Slot now cut for backglass

 

AGvjQml.jpg

 

Added timber for lock and trim

 

LWzaue6.jpg

 

Air holes and wiring inlet cut.

 

ADyu0fS.jpg

 

Bolt holes drilled and bolts knocked in to pre-cut locking square edges, this should mean I am not swinging a hammer at my newly painted/decaled cab later :cool:..

 

mvlgbrQ.jpg

 

84rVDDJ.jpg

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Just some more cabinetry fun, with alot of back and forwards with Turbo27 to make sure hole placement is correct for everything.

Just an FYI - Didnt realise before, but the lockdown assembly on the later gen WPC cab's has the right side bolt around 10mm to the left of the previous gen, who knows why but hopefully it doesnt bite me in the bum.

Also, the start button's seem to be in defferent locations depending on machine.

WPC cabs all look the same, but so far I have noticed location variations for the following;

 

- Shooter location

- P/F Pivot nut height

- Start button

- Lockdown bar holes

 

Once again, thanks @Turbo27 , would have been a disaster without your help!! :041:

 

Mark out front of cab..

 

fFPeRPv.jpg

 

Nervously cut things out..

 

N3PoxgX.jpg

 

Sit the headbox in place and mark out locations for hinge brackets and bolts.

 

tDUdBSs.jpg

 

Trial fit with brackets and bolts.

 

JfsBGAO.jpg

 

vRc1ogw.jpg

 

E54CnHz.jpg

 

Time for a coldy !!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Prepping for paint

 

2XL8W7p.jpg

 

A bit of a spray with filler, and fingers crossed tomorrow is at least the undercoat done as the weather is absolutely brilliant (worse places to work, thats for sure!). Was feeling pretty good about it all at this stage, little did I know what was waiting for me the following day...

 

qeoKISh.jpg

 

 

...and than came complete **** up after complete **** up !!!:realmad:

 

I got up early Sunday to get as much time as I could, looking back on this day I should never got out of bed lol!

The first thing I screwed up on, was drilled the leg bolt holes at the wrong ends of the cab! Rule 101, after building a beautiful new cabinet, dont screw up the leg hole's FFS. I than had to go around and drill more holes, aside from me just being completely annoyed and frustrated with myself, this also took up way more time than intended, couple this with the fact that it is practically impossible to drill these holes in exactly the correct angle both horizontally and vertically whilst maintaining a 45 degree angle the whole time freehand :120:...

I always intended on making up a jig for this, but you just wouldn't think it would be so hard! If anyone has any tips on this than I am all ears!

 

So anyway, get past this finally and holes are done (with an extra one at each corner in case it ever gets setup on the side of a hill... :021: ).

 

Move on to the sanding, and man did I underestimate the time needed for this! I chose to do this by hand to make sure I dont get stupid swirls, or bumps, or whatever, but shit it took some time (probably a couple of hours at least). I had also left the glass channel slot cut until now so that had to be done, but was pretty straight forward.

Than I was like YES, finally I can paint this thing. Missus already had the shits cause I said I will have the afternoon to do other stuff, by now it was hitting 2pm and I am only setting up to paint, so that was going down real well.

I was determined though, happy to cop the daggers from the other half as long as I can stare at this freshly painted cab later whilst drinking a coldy!

 

Got my new spray gun out, only to realise I didn't have a fitting needed, no problem, I have an old set here somewhere, looking, looking, no-where to be seen. After searching and telling myself I would not have thrown the old stuff out, I accepted defeat, and took the drive to Supercheap to get what was needed. Another hour or so gone.

Now time is of the essence, at this point shadows are starting to grow long in the yard, and the evening bugs that seem to always enjoy having a swim in your fresh paint are starting to wake-up 'I still have time' I convince myself, so march on.

Undercoat out - it was a new type I hadn't used before as I couldn't remember what I use get, and was unable to find an old tin as reference. I start the mixing process and notice a rather odd reaction to the thinners, but it looks to mix in fine (eventually), so I load it in the gun and start spraying...

It was at this point, I knew I had ****ed up!

Paint was spattering out of the gun as if not thinned enough, add more thinners, still doesn't change, add more, nothing, try it on the headbox and its like using unthinned paint, at this stage im blaming the new gun 'never had trouble like this with my old one' I tell myself, make adjustments to it, use more thinners etc..

 

In the end i admitted defeat, I had added that much thinners to the paint it was noticeably wet, but the paint was still spraying as if it wasn't thinned. I threw my hands in the air and gave up.

As I was trying to clean with the thinners I had, I noticed the paint was not washing off stuff, it was at this point it dawned on me, bloody wrong thinners!! I checked the primer can and sure enough, the thinners I had grabbed for the top coat was only suited to that, and not the undercoat. I wondered what I had done in the past as I only ever used one type of thinners with both undercoat and top coat.

Its amazing how, just because I couldn't find an old can of the undercoat I use to use, things completely went off the rails. Oh, and after all this, and I had packed up, I found an old can of the undercoat I use to use, and recalled I just used basic diggers thinners for it and the top coat...

 

Off topic, I also found (when pulling out an old set of rails to double check the glass rail slot), the large timber side rail for the p/f (I ended up making a whole new set due to not having this one) stuck inside the metal rail, which just topped everything off.

 

I will have to spend another hour sanding back the headbox again due to the crap paint job.

 

I havnt taken any more pictures of the machine due to the total disgust I was feeling at the time.

 

Here is were I found the timber rail..

 

cl0N9JD.jpg

 

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG !!! :o:o

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1 day of failures after SO many days of success mate!

 

Yeah, days like that make you appreciate the good ones, that's for sure!

 

So, after not looking at the thing for a couple of days, I sanded back the headbox and got things back on track.

 

jUZnP5X.jpg

 

Weather forecast isn't looking good this weekend, but hopefully Saturday stays dry enough to get bottom and top coats on, baring any more issue's. Fingers crossed.

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Finally got things back on track (mostly)!

After trying a different thinners, and a different gun, with no change in how the paint was spraying, I pulled out some of the old undercoat poaint I found last week and gave it a go. To my surprise it sprayed fine !! Not sure what the heck is going on, but I came to the conclusion the MetalShield primer was to blame. I went out and got a tin of the stuff I always use and boom, went on a charm..

 

H6MI4ER.jpg

 

quX0VXe.jpg

 

55woMsD.jpg

 

wRlKqEl.jpg

 

I did end up with a little bug that landed, and proceed to crawl and drag its ass along the top of the headbox though, so will need to sand it back again and re-spray :realmad: , but other than that, pretty happy with the results.

Will be able to start applying the decals on the base hopefully during the week :)

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Ok, Its officially a TAF now !!

 

Prep for decals with a quick sand of 400 grit to make sure there isnt any small lumps anywhere

 

1iPt0jk.jpg

 

Decal setup

 

7sabLjk.jpg

 

First one done, just removed a strip so the side-rail tape sticks directly to the cabinet.

 

aFbvjrl.jpg

 

Everything trimmed up, and tape applied, onto the rest

 

1UPF34x.jpg

 

6hrOBoC.jpg

 

P04iPL9.jpg

 

BOOM!!

 

RjHP6Fm.jpg

 

Pp9Jfog.jpg

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Those metal leg/cab protectors are a must so great to see many using them now. Top job.

 

Yeah for sure! I have used the felt and the plastic ones in the past, but they will both damage the decal's in different ways (wrinkling/bubbling). I also get rid of the decal that will be trapped under the cab protector (just tracing around the metal bracket before screwing in position), as well as the plunger bracket. I feel the less decal trapped under stuff the less chance of seeing wrinkles in the future.

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Yeah for sure! I have used the felt and the plastic ones in the past, but they will both damage the decal's in different ways (wrinkling/bubbling). I also get rid of the decal that will be trapped under the cab protector (just tracing around the metal bracket before screwing in position), as well as the plunger bracket. I feel the less decal trapped under stuff the less chance of seeing wrinkles in the future.

 

Spot on. I do exactly the same.

 

This machine will turn out so well. There is nothing better than having an awesome and classic BW title, restored and playing top notch.

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Thinking its probably a good time to trial fit a playfield into the cab, rather than find out something is wrong with things when I am lifting the assembled one that weighs 40kg..

 

KzqB4GV.jpg

 

So far so good

 

vXGkpHU.jpg

 

hmmm something wrong with the the height of the plunger on the ball. A bit of an 'adjustment' of the lockdown bar sorted that.

 

mOgvgd2.jpg

 

DVmlwhR.jpg

 

Q9Q4MAq.jpg

 

I was pretty happy with myself at this stage, all seemed to work, all that was needed was to try the lockdown bar and make sure it all works together...

 

Hang on

 

 

WTF !!!!!! :realmad:

 

 

 

1tUA1c7.jpg

 

vjwlYeK.jpg

 

GB0RzMU.jpg

 

What can I say, just total disbelief really, and such a fundamental mistake to make.

 

In the past restores/cab builds I have done, I have always found it difficult/impossible to fit mirror blades. It was almost a 50/50 chance as to weather or not there was enough room either side of the p/f, and even if luck fell on your side, they would still be very tight and catch on the p/f.

With this knowledge in hand, I decided very early on to add an extra 5mm to the width of the cab, which will ensure there is space for blades. Well, this is the final result of that seemingly logical, but now obviously very stupid decision..

 

Anyone out there had to get a custom lockdown bar made up? Please let me know details!!

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Arrrggg. That truly sux mate. Is it possible to bend/flare the outer edges of the lock down bar. Wondering if a combination of that plus maybe trimming the top corner of the cab would make it fit?

 

Sent from my ALP-L29 using Tapatalk

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Arrrggg. That truly sux mate. Is it possible to bend/flare the outer edges of the lock down bar. Wondering if a combination of that plus maybe trimming the top corner of the cab would make it fit?

 

Sent from my ALP-L29 using Tapatalk

 

Yeah, maybe. Flaring it may work, but the hard part is not damaging the outside edges. One thought that come's to mind is using a small hydrolic car jack, and a couple of block's of timber on the inside to slowly force the ends out with some control.. thinking thinking... :017:

 

edit: come to think of it, this will most likely banana the whole bar (with the middle being the weakest spot), so probably wont work...

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