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Simple drop target fix.


kirk332

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No it’s not by using a lubricant or getting stronger springs or installing a metal spine to stiffen the target or reshaping how the target grips. In actual fact there is no modification required at all, all parts are genuine original parts and as far as I know, so far there are no ongoing treatments required.

I recently purchased a Judge Dredd which had three of the five drop targets sticking and just not performing well at all. After removing the assembly it became quite evident as to why, sticky greasy gummy residue. A simple fix...so I thought! Complete disassembly, clean with alcohol, replacement of two damaged tension springs, then inspect for other damage including misalignment, burrs, corrosion, warping and any other issues that could possibly stop it from performing as it was designed.

I have read numerous times many people saying lubrication and pinball machines don’t mix. For the most part, I agree with this theory but I draw the line with metal on metal rotating parts, but that’s another argument for another post that I’m sure many will disagree.

Anyway back to my JD. After careful, dry (non-lubricated) reassembly I installed the assembly back into my machine only to find that now four of the five targets were sticking, even worse than before. I was dumbfounded, how is this possible? I started to think that the only fix was to purchase new targets, springs and washers or to use some form of lubricant, but I refused to do this.

I then decided to try using something that most all of us have in our tool kit, at least those of us who look after our machines with an almost OCDC attitude. Hands up those of you who notice just how smoothly and quietly your steel balls glide over the Playfield after a fresh coat of wax! Well that’s the fix. I completely dissembled the drop target assembly again and applied my best carnauba wax on all sliding surfaces including the metal bracket, washers and of course the plastic drop targets themselves. I let it dry and then buffed off all the residue, reassembled, reinstalled and Voilà! 100% serviceable. They are rock solid, snappy and crisp in operation and have been so for about six months now.

I also now wax and polish all my plunger mechanisms and associated plastic sleeves, flipper shafts and bushings and although it’s not as noticeable how this improves their performance during game play the drop targets are faultless. Hope this helps.

I have another 100% fix for JD owners with balls flying out of the wire ramps. Let me know if you have the need for a guaranteed fix for this. Cheers and happy pinballing.

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I had similar issues with drop targets sticking on my JD however a thorough clean got them working like new again without the need for any lube. The issue I can see with the wax is that it will be abraded and chafe over time with the movement of the target and potentially gum things up again. I'd be interested to know how the wax holds up.
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I had similar issues with drop targets sticking on my JD however a thorough clean got them working like new again without the need for any lube. The issue I can see with the wax is that it will be abraded and chafe over time with the movement of the target and potentially gum things up again. I'd be interested to know how the wax holds up.

Test is in progress, 6 months down the road now but only about 100 games with no sign of any issues at this stage.

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If they don’t work after cleaning without lube then something else is wrong.

Judge Dredd was always a pain and I suspect that the springs were to tight between the washers.

 

So replace the bottom washer then spring, leave out the top washer then add the eclip.

 

This seemed to fix Dredd once and for all.

 

Every time I do a target set that is sticky or gummed up, guess what. Waxed or lubed.

Dry all the way.

 

If you must, then dry silicon spray.

 

 

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If they don’t work after cleaning without lube then something else is wrong.

Judge Dredd was always a pain and I suspect that the springs were to tight between the washers.

 

So replace the bottom washer then spring, leave out the top washer then add the eclip.

 

This seemed to fix Dredd once and for all.

 

Every time I do a target set that is sticky or gummed up, guess what. Waxed or lubed.

Dry all the way.

 

If you must, then dry silicon spray.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I've got a Dredd here right now and you guessed it, only one washer and the spring.

 

Machine has been a fistful of problems. The black fingers that hold the transfer rod in place to auto knockdown the center target, all but one finger broken off.

 

Had to come up with a fix because you can only get 4 target or 3 target versions, not the 5 target one.

 

The playfield was lifted up but put down while the crane was in the way resulting in the crane swing rod to snap where the EClip located it and also breaking the crane plastic cover in 5 pieces.

 

The plastic rotor that raises and lowers the crane height rod, broken where the grub screw tightens onto the rod.

 

Crane rod was replaced with a piece of steel stock from the local steel store.

 

EClip slot was swapped for a old Williams flipper shaft grub screw assembly.

 

Plastic rotor with no grub screw was replaced with a hose clamp around the hub and seems to work better than original.

 

Anyway, machine is just waiting on the two part epoxy to go off that is now holding the crane cover in one piece again.

 

Crane seems to raise and lower as intended. Amazing myself on this one because 3 of the parts I had to make.

 

Fortunately, cosmetics runs second to reliability on operated machines and the crane has had about 50 games through it so far and hasn't missed a beat so i'm somewhat happy but the man hours I've had to throw into this machine I simply can't charge for but that's the way it goes. Some you make a bit, some you loose bad but that is what is required for return business.

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If they don’t work after cleaning without lube then something else is wrong.

Judge Dredd was always a pain and I suspect that the springs were to tight between the washers.

 

So replace the bottom washer then spring, leave out the top washer then add the eclip.

 

This seemed to fix Dredd once and for all.

 

Every time I do a target set that is sticky or gummed up, guess what. Waxed or lubed.

Dry all the way.

 

If you must, then dry silicon spray.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Dedrok for your suggestions.

 

I’m not quite sure if the polished off wax will gum up though as it is all very dry, time will tell but no sign of them slowing down at this stage.

 

Any idea on how long these sorts of things take before showing signs of gumming up if a lubricant were used?

 

I didn’t think to remove any parts (washers) from the assembly, I like to try and keep things as they were originally designed, after all I’m sure they worked when new. Do you think that by removing the washer off the spring and the resultant loss in tension may reduce the quick crisp positive and snappy action that mine currently have?

 

I am not a fan of silicon spray, I’m sure it would work but I’m not keen about putting silicon anywhere near painted surfaces if in case one day a clear coat is required.

 

 

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See how it goes if it’s working. Might be ok.

 

The snappiness is from the return springs and don’t touch them.

 

It’s because of the bar I think that makes the 2 washers too much tension as all others seem fine once clean.

 

But yes, novus cleaning or waxing to clean them is ok as long as it’s completely removed. Then it won’t gum up.

 

Had a JD 12 years and targets lasted perfect once I did them.

 

 

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I had similar issues with drop targets sticking on my JD however a thorough clean got them working like new again without the need for any lube. The issue I can see with the wax is that it will be abraded and chafe over time with the movement of the target and potentially gum things up again. I'd be interested to know how the wax holds up.

 

I think that because I used alcohol to clean everything that I possibly removed all the natural lubrication inherent in the plastic target and by putting wax on then polishing off I have artificially restored the natural lubricant in the plastic. As you say it may abrade/chafe off in time but they work damn fine at the moment. I will do my best to report back on the longevity of the wax. How often would a set of drop targets last before needing to be stripped and cleaned, any idea?

 

 

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I've got a Dredd here right now and you guessed it, only one washer and the spring.

 

Machine has been a fistful of problems. The black fingers that hold the transfer rod in place to auto knockdown the center target, all but one finger broken off.

 

Had to come up with a fix because you can only get 4 target or 3 target versions, not the 5 target one.

 

The playfield was lifted up but put down while the crane was in the way resulting in the crane swing rod to snap where the EClip located it and also breaking the crane plastic cover in 5 pieces.

 

The plastic rotor that raises and lowers the crane height rod, broken where the grub screw tightens onto the rod.

 

Crane rod was replaced with a piece of steel stock from the local steel store.

 

EClip slot was swapped for a old Williams flipper shaft grub screw assembly.

 

Plastic rotor with no grub screw was replaced with a hose clamp around the hub and seems to work better than original.

 

Anyway, machine is just waiting on the two part epoxy to go off that is now holding the crane cover in one piece again.

 

Crane seems to raise and lower as intended. Amazing myself on this one because 3 of the parts I had to make.

 

Fortunately, cosmetics runs second to reliability on operated machines and the crane has had about 50 games through it so far and hasn't missed a beat so i'm somewhat happy but the man hours I've had to throw into this machine I simply can't charge for but that's the way it goes. Some you make a bit, some you loose bad but that is what is required for return business.

 

 

http://www.marcospecialties.com/Pinball-parts/03-8865 for the JD plastic target stop.

 

 

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http://www.marcospecialties.com/Pinball-parts/03-8865 for the JD plastic target stop.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Aussie Arcade

 

Thanks buddy but the reason people come to me to do there pinballs is because of the fast turn around and my ability to keep them going still earning money for the owner without needing to wait for overseas parts.

 

This machine will be out earning money for the owner again in a couple of days. Compare that to waiting on this part from the states, the cost of it and maybe if it arrives quickly, in 3 weeks or so.

 

Hacks yes but cosmetics has so little to do with a machine's earning ability providing it all works and is clean and well lit.

 

The guy that actually owns the machine was quite happy for me to just block off the planet completely so the ball couldn't get there to get stuck and in his words, "The people that hire these machines wouldn't know anyway".

 

I'll check this mech thoroughly though just to make certain that ball will not jam because if it does, he has to refund the hire charge and that he doesn't like and nor do I.

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I have another 100% fix for JD owners with balls flying out of the wire ramps. Let me know if you have the need for a guaranteed fix for this. Cheers and happy pinballing.

 

I have a problem on The Hobbit with ball flying off the bottom of the right wireform and down the outlane. Would your JD fix work on it perhaps?

 

 

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I have a problem on The Hobbit with ball flying off the bottom of the right wireform and down the outlane. Would your JD fix work on it perhaps?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

 

Just confirming, is your flying ball hitting the end of the wire form and then bouncing out and into the out lane or is it flying off the rails as it hits the last kink/final bend of the wire form and not making it to the end?

 

With the JD the ball reaches the end of the wire form and hits a flat but rounded piece of metal and bounces out over the top rather than stopping and just dropping into the in-lane. The fix for me was to cut a small piece of edge trim similar to this, https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Aluminum-Textured-Finish-Length/dp/B0719R8H1R Now the ball hits the base of this trim, deadening the impact of the ball and almost wedging the ball down due to its slightly wedge shape, if you know what I mean.

 

If this is the same issue you are having then the material I used won’t work for you, because you don’t have the flat rounded bit of metal at the end of the wire form, but I think if you were to use a small rubber tube like a bit of vacuum hose, or a car windscreen washer hose, of if you are into petrol driven RC planes and alike then the fuel hose would also fit. Cut a length equal to the half circle at the end of the wire form then run a slit along its length and slide it onto the wire at the end where the ball hits. Just make sure the slit cut along the length of the hose faces away from where the ball will hit to avoid trying to push it off, if you know what I mean. You might have to try a few different size hoses to find one that fits well. You could perhaps find a clear tubing that will be almost invisible once installed.

 

I am away at work at the moment and don’t have any photos to show you what I have done but hopefully you get the jist. Good luck!

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That is exactly it.

 

Thanks for the excellent advice kirk332, I think I've got the tubing to sort that out.

 

Now, if someone has any ideas on how to stop a ball hitting the inlane guide on GB and hopping into the outlane….

 

Sorry to hijack the thread folks!

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That is exactly it.

 

Thanks for the excellent advice kirk332, I think I've got the tubing to sort that out.

 

Now, if someone has any ideas on how to stop a ball hitting the inlane guide on GB and hopping into the outlane….

 

Sorry to hijack the thread folks!

 

That’s not exactly what I was thinking the problem was, being back-spin, but the tubing idea might still work with this issue. Let me know how it goes thanks.

 

My NIB GB Premium turns up on Tuesday so I don’t have first hand experience with any of the issues GB has however I have been reading up about this particular problem and it has been said to just simply raise the inlane guide. Access from under the playfield where the guide is mounted and get a small pin punch and knock it out of the playfield a bit to make it stand higher.

 

Good luck

 

 

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Don't play it? ;)

 

Isn't there a mod that adds height to the lane guide (and the option of a floating centre post)?

 

Ha! GB is a great pin, if you spent an age trying to deal with the bizarre geometry and airballs.

 

I do have the mod that places a Perspex cover over the in and outlanes, with a centre post attached, which is supposed to stop balls jumping out, but it doesn't seem to work.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

That’s not exactly what I was thinking the problem was, being back-spin, but the tubing idea might still work with this issue. Let me know how it goes thanks.

 

My NIB GB Premium turns up on Tuesday so I don’t have first hand experience with any of the issues GB has however I have been reading up about this particular problem and it has been said to just simply raise the inlane guide. Access from under the playfield where the guide is mounted and get a small pin punch and knock it out of the playfield a bit to make it stand higher.

 

Good luck

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Aussie Arcade

 

Further good advice, a slightly higher inlane guide will reduce the space between it and the Perspex cover.

 

I hope for your sake and mine that a software update is not far off. GB desperately needs one and it is bordering on criminal that Stern has been so lax about this

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Ha! GB is a great pin, if you spent an age trying to deal with the bizarre geometry and airballs.

 

I do have the mod that places a Perspex cover over the in and outlanes, with a centre post attached, which is supposed to stop balls jumping out, but it doesn't seem to work.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

I hope for your sake and mine that a software update is not far off. GB desperately needs one and it is bordering on criminal that Stern has been so lax about this

 

Thanks!

I must admit I am a tad concerned with all the software issue hype that I have read about. I’m hoping that by the time I get my head around how to play the theme (at least 6 months) and work on how to fix the air ball issues that a new update will be provided. Hoping I haven’t sunk a whole batch of hard earned $$ in to my first ever NIB game only to be disappointed. It will certainly sway my decision to ever buy a NIB again.

 

How does one get in direct contact with the people at STERN who make the decisions regarding software updates and alike, any idea?

 

Cheers

 

 

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Thanks!

I must admit I am a tad concerned with all the software issue hype that I have read about. I’m hoping that by the time I get my head around how to play the theme (at least 6 months) and work on how to fix the air ball issues that a new update will be provided. Hoping I haven’t sunk a whole batch of hard earned $$ in to my first ever NIB game only to be disappointed. It will certainly sway my decision to ever buy a NIB again.

 

How does one get in direct contact with the people at STERN who make the decisions regarding software updates and alike, any idea?

 

Cheers

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

 

It's been more than two years now since the last GB software update, and Gomez has declared publicly that there are code gaps that need to be filled and bugs fixed.

 

I had a similar wait with Hobbit and finally the code matches the promise of the pin.

 

So Stern knows what is going on but have made the decision to put their coders onto newer machines. You could ask AMD to join in the chorus but I doubt it will do much good. I know many people at Stern lurk on pinside so once you are comfortable with the GB (perspex is about to become your new best friend) add your voice to the din. Hopefully one day they'll listen

 

 

All that said, GB is amazing once it is dialled in

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What is dry lube? Haven’t come across it

 

Dry Lube, it comes in a tube with like a cardboard outer wrapping about the size of a texta or large marking pen.

 

Here you go, Supa Cheap has a variation of it....

 

SCA_1091_hi-res.jpg?sw=558&sh=558&sm=fit

 

It's about as thick as wax but is clear and dry. Put this stuff on your flipper link pivots, ( the plunger end and the pawl end), and you will get an extremely long life out of them before they start to elongate but don't get it on the plungers themselves.

 

Metal on metal or metal on plastic as in the links do need something to lubricate them and this stuff I have used on such points for years.

 

The whole, "don't lubricate pinballs" come about with people thinking sticking flippers were a result of no lube on the plungers themselves and on went something like WD40. Nothing could be worse because of the dust that the flipper coils attract and once any thing is put on the plungers, the dust now has something to stick to which will turn it all to a paste.

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Simple drop target fix.

 

Put this stuff on your flipper link pivots, ( the plunger end and the pawl end), and you will get an extremely long life out of them before they start to elongate but don't get it on the plungers themselves.

 

I use this stuff on the playfield slides and it works a treat but I never thought to try it on the flipper pawls, I’m amazed at the results you say it offers. I will certainly give this a try. Thanks!

 

I have plans to try and install roller ball bearings in all flipper links including flipper bushings. I have just set up, well almost finished, setting up my new AL-336D lathe and will experiment in making my own flipper bushings made from aluminum or possibly brass and install small roller bearings and also make my own flipper links with bearings. Maybe a bit of an over kill but I hate the amount of slop in the flipper assembly even after replacing all moving parts with new parts.

 

 

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So Stern knows what is going on but have made the decision to put their coders onto newer machines. You could ask AMD to join in the chorus but I doubt it will do much good. I know many people at Stern lurk on pinside so once you are comfortable with the GB (perspex is about to become your new best friend) add your voice to the din. Hopefully one day they'll listen

 

Sounds like some good advice, I’ll keep it onboard, thanks!

 

All that said, GB is amazing once it is dialled in

 

That’s so good to hear, I was a bit worried. I look forward to the ride.

 

 

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