Pong Replica Complete Detailed How To Build Thread

 

I've built four of these cabs so far and have just started on my fifth build.

This thread will detail everything needed to build a cab from scratch.

I'll keep updating this first post as I go.

 

Previous build threads...

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/87956-Atari-PONG-Cab-Replica-Build?highlight=

 

https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/95466-Another-Pong-Cab-Scratch-Build?highlight=

 

Plans I'm working from...

 

 

 

The sheet of Woodgrain MDF measures 2420mm x 1220mm, it's enough to do the whole cab with the top right panel below left over as scrap.

 

 

 

 

Bill of materials

 

$180.00 - PCB and Components

$5.00 - PONG Bezel CNC Cut Sticker

$40.00 - Control Panel Overlay

$15.00 - 500mm x 400mm Perspex

$10.00 - Two CNC Laser cut Potentiometer Mounting Plates

$25.75 - Control Knobs

$335.00 - 2400 x 1200 x 16mm sheet of Milano Walnut MDF

$62.94 - 3 lengths of 30 x 30 x 1.5 x 3000mm Aluminium Angle

$4.98 - 4 Pack of 90 x 90 x 65 x 2.5mm Angle Bracket

$33.06 - 3 sheets of 900 x 600 x 16mm MDF

$12.17 - 90 x 35 3600mm Structural Pine

$1.80 - 2 Sheets 80 Grit Sandpaper

$2.16 - 2 Sheets 320 Grit Sandpaper

$3.24 - 3 Sheets 400 Grit Sandpaper

$7.62 - Two 19mm x 16mm Locks

$10.21 - 610mm Piano Hinge

$9.00 - 3/8 x 1 1/2 Leg Levelers

$2.20 - 3/8 T-Nuts

$15.30 - 3 Packs of 8G x 15mm Button Head Screws

$7.15 - 8G x 30mm Button Head Screws

$4.60 - 8G x 50mm countersunk Screws

$2.48 - 4 Outlet Power Board

$7.10 - 5M Black Piggyback Extension cable

$37.20 - 3 Cans of Dulux Duramax Dandelion Yellow Paint

$17.70 - 500ml (half a can) of Flat Black Paint

$43.50 - 9 metres of T-Moulding

$35.00 - $1 Coin Mech

$10.00 - M4 x 35mm Cup Head (Coach) Bolts

$5.39 - 1000 gsm 420mm x 590 Black Cardboard$3.00 - 80mm Cooling Fan Grill

$18.00 - Two 80mm Cooling Fans

$5.00 - ATX Power Supply

$??.?? - 14" Monitor or TV (not sure which I'll use at this stage)

 

$1001.40 - Total

 

The tools needed for the build are:

1/2 Inch Router with 2 Inch Flush Trim Bit

 

3/8 Router with Slot Cutter Bit

 

Jigsaw

Grinder with cut off disc and flapper disc (for cutting aluminium angle and cleaning edges)

Cordless Drill

Cordless Screwdriver

Quick Grip Clamps x4

80mm Holesaw (for cooling fans)

19mm Spade Bit or Hole Saw (for locks)

30mm Spade bit (for locks)

Set of Metric Drill Bits

 

 

Labour Hours

3.5 hours - PCB Build

1.5 hours - Pick up Woodgrain sheet from Laminex

1.0 hour - Pick up materials from Bunnings

2.0 hours - Pick up coin mech & another trip to Bunnings

4.0 hours - Cut all panels

8.0 hours - Assemble cabinet

 

Total - 12 hours

The first thing to work out is what to use for the game itself.

I was lucky enough to get some blank 'Pong Reborn' PCB's made for me but I can't get anymore and there are only a few left so I cant help you out if you are chasing one of these.

 

Some other options would be to use an old Pong console with the AY-3-8500 chip and use that but it doesn't play the same as an original Pong.

@Frank_fjs had recently done a PCB using the Atmega328 which does the same thing as a Pong console so that may be another option.

https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/98296-Atmega328-PONG?highlight=pong

You could also try and find an old Pong clone PCB of Ebay and use that insted.

 

Here is the the blank PCB.

 

 

And after about 3.5 hours of soldering components in it's completed...

 

 

 

I made a template for the sides and bezel after the first build which has saved me a lot of time not having to make measurements and sand panels. It's not the same size as the side panels but has the profiles needed and saves a bit of space (it was made from some scrap wood left over from another build).

 

 

The template is laid over the top of the panel and a line is marked then I rough cut with a jigsaw about 5mm away from the line.

 

 

The template is then placed under the panel.

 

 

Using the router with the flush trim bit the panel is trimmed to match the template then that panel is used to flush trim the second panel so both are identical.

 

 

The slot cutter is then used to cut the slot for the T-Moulding.

 

Where the kick panel and coin panel meet, it's important to get the woodgrain to match where the panel is cut, I mark the length of the kick panel then a 10mm gap, then the coin panel is marked out.

 

 

I cut between the 10mm gap with a jigsaw.

 

 

Then flush trim each side over a piece of straight panel, no sanding required and no chipped laminate.

 

 

For the Bezel it's the same thing, I made a template as well so its just a matter of marking out a line and rough cutting with the jigsaw.

 

 

Then flush trim over the top of the template.

 

 

 

All panels cut, just need to route the hole for the coin mech.

 

 

The base measures 600mm x 500mm using 90mm x 35mm structural pine and is strengthened using corner brackets which also help to keep it square. The image below is from a previous build and the centre cross brace is optional and probably overkill.

 

 

Holes are drilled in each corner, T-nuts are inserted and then the leg levelers are installed.

 

 

3/8" T-Nut o.d. is 12mm so an 11.5mm hole is drilled to ensure a snug fit.

 

 

The bezel and control panel are sanded with 320 grit then the first coat of paint is applied, allowed to tack off for a few minutes then a second coat is applied. The Duramax paint seals the wood quite well and no primer is required and it dries very quickly.

 

 

 

After leaving it for a couple of hours it's then sanded with 400 grit, another 2 coats are applied then the same again once more.

Bunnings also have a spray tip assortment pack for the Duramax cans with various types, the red one had a broad pattern which is perfect for the final coat which won't cause streaking.

 

 

The lower side bracket is screwed down 90mm up from the bottom, there is a 600mm x 500mm x 16mm panel that sits on top of the base which will make the base sit 16mm below the bottom edge of the side panels. This gets the MDF up off the ground to prevent it getting wet when cleaners are using a mop on the floors (or if beer is spilt) where it's sited.

 

 

The base is screwed down from the top with 30mm screws and 50mm screws also go in from the side (below) for good measure.

 

 

 

This cab will be sited and needs to have easy access to the coin box, the original cabs had a fixed front kick panel and the cab had to be moved away from the wall in order to access to coin box. the kick panel has a hinge mounted at the bottom and the kick panel folds down to give easy access to the coin box, a lock needs to be fitted at the top.

 

I start by drilling a 2mm pilot hole from the front, 20mm away from the edge.

 

 

 

Then flip the panel and use a 30mm spade bit and drill down about 8mm.

 

 

The panel is flipped again and a 19mm hole is drilled from the front using a hole saw.

 

 

The 16mm projection cam lock can then be fitted with the striker sitting just off the panel.

 

 

Because the two panels aren't in line with each other, the back edge of the top of the kick panel is sanded down to allow the front edges to meet without a gap.

 

 

I didn't make a template for the coin mech last time so I worked out the dimensions needed (40mm x 112mm).

The mech sits 70mm down and 70mm in from the top and side egdes.

 

 

The hole was marked out, rough cut with a jigsaw, then I cut some pieces of scrap to form a routing jig and screwed them to the back of the panel.

 

 

The flush trim bit was used to route the hole.

 

 

Coin mech fits perfectly.

 

 

Before fitting the coin mech I decided it would be a good idea to use the panel to make a hole in my template for next time, it took about 1/4 of the time it took to do it without a jig.

 

 

Cab assembled...

 

Edited March 17, 2019 by Kaizen

Mate this is epic! Great work!!! :):):):):)

Great work. Thanks for documenting this.

:applause: A great log.

I'll never have the time nor patience to make something this beautiful - these machines are a work of art.

Great stuff- thanks for the post.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

I spent the afternoon assembling the cab, first post updated.

 

I drew up a design for the mounting plates for the pots and got them CNC laser cut to save a bit of time.

 

 

Edited March 17, 2019 by Kaizen

This build is fantastic! Thanks for such a detailed description