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Indiana Jones path of adventure problem


cejay

Question

Hi all. The PoA has been playing up on my IJ for a while so thought I'd better get it sorted.

 

So I got underneath the playfield to check the poa motor driver board (I have the homepin and couldn't see anything wrong there. led still showing power at least).

 

Then I got to the opto board which limits the left and right movement and when I use the switch edge test and block off the transmitter/receiver leds I don't get any action on the switch edges.. if i block off the upper and lower holes on the poa the switches fire in the matrix but those optos don't appear to do anything. is that normal behaviour? Didn't seem like it to me.

 

Wonder where to go next.. dead opto board/optos?

 

Cheers,

 

Chris

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I don't agree @Boots, the interrupter also supplies the button tension.

 

Yeah gonna have to agree to disagree there, just changed some over for a mate, on an Indy aswell the buttons were noticeably lax compared to the other games

Also the plastic does lose some tension over time

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Guys don't forget he will need the flipper cabinet harness connectors as well. I think I saw them cut off and the wires, some of them, soldered directly to the leaf switches.

 

I'd also like to see a picture of the connectors going to the FlipTronics board from the flipper cabinet switches as well. I'm suspecting there may be a hack there as well. Better safe than sorry when ordering your parts and this is an ideal chance with @Gemini2544 having a perfect working IJ to compare yours to.

 

Yes, the plastic interrupters do loose there tension over time. You can repair them with Williams special tool part number 00089-24 or a hot gas iron to soften the plastic and bend tension back into it.;)

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I don’t think there has been any other hacks done. Here’s the connector hacked as you mentioned. I’m putting an RS order in for the connectors and pins so I can re-crimp a new set... somehow

 

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I don’t think there has been any other hacks done. Here’s the connector hacked as you mentioned. I’m putting an RS order in for the connectors and pins so I can re-crimp a new set... somehow

 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190318/7d98f668b8475c9aae0e85204c30766b.jpg

 

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190318/f262198995f8276ad1bf539b81e928d8.jpg

 

 

Ow, that is it. It hasn't been lost. You should be fine to use that again. To remove the cut wires you pull them on the end of the wire through the connector, never back out as they were pushed in when fitted or you will bugger the connector.

 

Just make sure you have one for the other side flipper switch as well.

 

The FlipTronics board is in the head of the machine. It is the top left board, square in shape and the smallest of all the boards.

 

The connector on this board that may be hacked is J-905. It will be marked on the board near the pins. There should be 5 wires going into the 6 pin connector.

 

These are the wire colours...

Pin 1....Blue-violet

Pin 2....Blue-grey

Pin 3....Black-yellow

Pin 4....Not used

Pin 5....Black-blue

Pin 6....Orange

 

Just check all these wires are all in and in the correct locations.

 

The hack you would be looking for would have the Blue-violet wire linked in the pin 3 position as well and the Blue-grey wire linked in the pin 5 position as well. This is the only way I can see how the bridge ever rocked with only one flipper switch hooked up per side.

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I’ll pull this apart a bit better tomorrow but this is the board you are referring to. Not sure if this is the hack you imagined, seems strange to have a connector set up like that..

 

69b50e40f9405c0730fb387c3609d3f5.jpg

 

15efbec8656defa8318addab22118aab.jpg

 

 

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Hmm, I think we found your hack. Some that hack give us hackers a bad name aye. Seriously my mum could have done a neater hack but we need to change that all back to stock. Once back as it was built originally we can start to check everything.

Who knows, it may just need to be unhacked and all will work but don't rely on that.

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Got to ask why the hack in the first place, it's not as if parts are not available. I wonder what reason someone went to all this trouble and doing it wrong as 50% of the other functions being disconnected.

Also the Fliptronic PCB is located in the backbox on the TOP LEFT hand side. It has four big transistors on the board.

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See I don’t really understand what they have done there because the wire configuration on J-905 still looks correct according to the spec by Audiosteve. The connectors that plug into each other are just passing on the same configuration so I don’t get it... almost looks too neat to be a hack the way those connectors go together.

 

a2a812c4ceb03479d85ff9c950480e38.jpg

 

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Got to ask why the hack in the first place, it's not as if parts are not available. I wonder what reason someone went to all this trouble and doing it wrong as 50% of the other functions being disconnected.

Also the Fliptronic PCB is located in the backbox on the TOP LEFT hand side. It has four big transistors on the board.

 

Probably because in the 90s there was no internet and to get parts was only through your sole supplier and only if they had that part or else you were waiting sometimes months. The machine owes you thousands still so it isn't going to be pulled off site till parts arrive and you had to use your imagination so the machine was still earning money, some money.

 

I would say the flipper opto switch broke first, thus the leaf switch was installed only to find now the bridge wouldn't work correctly. Most operators would have mechanically blocked the path to the bridge till the part arrived but it appears this guy went further.

 

That is the problem when machines use non generic parts. While the part did become generic, Indie was one of the first to use it.

 

I was surprised Williams didn't have a setting for disabling the bridge in the software. These such settings become common so it was simple to disable parts of the machine while still having the machine making money.

 

Just to give you some idea, we had one Indie and only months old the bridge electric motor failed. A motor was going to be months from LAI and over $100 so in went a motor from the then Dick Smiths. Total cost, about $16 but the machine was only out for a day or two. As far as I know there is still a IJ with a non standard motor.

 

Also when I quote repairs like heating up the plastic on the opto interrupter plate on the flipper cabinet switches, these are actually repairs we did do to keep machines earning money. It was a very different time operating pinballs pre net days as opposed to home use pinball of today.

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I can bring a set of Great Lakes Modular flipper boards to Pirie, or mail you them if you want them quicker. They work the same as your missing ones but use magnetic switching instead of optos.

 

Let me know.

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Wow thanks for the offer Timbo, I have a fair bit of unravelling to do first as I want to understand what hack they have done. I have a lead on some cheap opto boards so will run with those but I greatly appreciate the offer mate.

 

Hopefully I catch you guys in Pirie :)

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@Gemini2544 would you be able to post a pic of your J905 connector on your Fliptronic II board?

 

You wouldn't have a similar kind of connector set up hanging off it?

 

Cheers

 

I removed that Z connector over a decade ago but heres a pic. Sorry the pixs are sideways, something my camera & AA don't like for some reason.

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Hey Chris @cejay I'm not sure the flipper optos are the issue. My IJ has been changed to leaf switches too at some stage and while I intend to change them back to the original design, the POA has worked fine. That said I now have a POA issue as well but my motor has stopped working. Hope you have success and let me know if you need me to check anything out or provide any photos.

 

Cheers

Brett 8a6d38b554a3eff16a5c9311ae61f195.jpg

 

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Yeah I know what you mean Brett. My thoughts all along have been that the leaf switches shouldn’t make any difference.. and maybe they don’t and it’s just a connector or power driver board issue.

 

If the restoring the machine to opto flippers doesn’t work I’ll have to send the boards off to Ken to get fully checked over :(

 

 

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Hey Chris @cejay I'm not sure the flipper optos are the issue. My IJ has been changed to leaf switches too at some stage and while I intend to change them back to the original design, the POA has worked fine. That said I now have a POA issue as well but my motor has stopped working. Hope you have success and let me know if you need me to check anything out or provide any photos.

 

Cheers

 

Yes this is true, it may not be the problem but when things are changed from standard, you are pretty much on your own which is fine if you understand exactly what you have changed it to and how it now works.

Problem is when you have something that no longer works. If you understand what is going on, you can repair it however if you don't, no one else does either.

There is no guarantee replacement parts will go straight in and repair faults either. Remember, you have already thrown a few new parts at this repair already.

Maybe there is nothing wrong with those parts or because it has been modified, it blew those parts up immediately. Maybe the original Williams parts could handle the modifications but the after market parts can't. You really don't know.

 

For these reasons I recommend you change it all back to stock.

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Maybe the original Williams parts could handle the modifications but the after market parts can't. You really don't know. For these reasons I recommend you change it all back to stock.

 

Hey Steve you make a good point and I just found this thread on Pinside which seems to highlight this point as well (as this IJ had the flipper optos replaced with leaf switches) https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/indiana-jones-more-poa-problems although I'm not sure it is the actual issue Chris has, as it relates to an aftermarket POA opto board ... interesting none the less

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