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My first cab minor restoration project


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I'd hack the connector loooong before I would hack the board, its survived 30 years in minty condition, would be a real shame to hack it to fit a $1 yum cha-chinese connector.

 

Don't get me wrong, I had no intention of touching the board!

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Update:

 

I purchased a new 15W fluorescent tube for the marquee, removed some excess plastic from the JAMMA harness and powered it up. The original kick harness wiring for the bootleg board was different to the original, so had to wire up a loom to change the pins to those of the connector on the CPS1 board. I had issues with the hard kick button on player 2 not working as the contact in the kick harness was poor, but finally sorted that one.

 

I've gone into the TEST MODE and all joystick movements and buttons appear to respond normally, however when I start a game, player 1 is constantly jumping - what should I check to stop this behaviour? It's as if the joystick up switch is being triggered but it's "OFF" in test mode.

 

The other thing I've noticed is the lack of sounds from certain sound codes from the test menu. Is this normal? The missing sounds are:

00H DCH 8EH

FFH D9H 78H

FEH D7H

FDH D2H

FCH

FBH CFH 3FH

FAH CDH 3AH

F9H C8H 30H

F8H

F7H BEH 17H

F6H

F5H 4EH

F4H 4BH

F3H 49H

F2H 44H

F1H 41H

F0H

 

So I'm getting closer to having it sorted. Will have to send the chassis off to Jomac as it needs a good service/tune to eradicate the pincushioning and adjust the size to fit the screen properly.

 

20190310_165953.thumb.jpg.1cecf8c02f33efd6a985f430430b69e1.jpg20190310_165959.thumb.jpg.5e66ed650ea57e9b2785cf61f7141144.jpg

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@NRB

"player 1 is constantly jumping"

 

Couple of queries:

- Whilst your old PCB had graphical issues, did it exhibit the same behaviour?

- You mentioned it says OFF in test menu - this is the case even if you tap UP - or when tapping up it responds normally? or simply does not respond at all?

 

If both PCBs are automatically doing this, it sounds as though your 'UP' wire on the joystick 1's microswitch, is being permanently grounded or is on NC tab of microswitch

 

- Inside the game, whilst it keeps jumping UP by itself, does pressing and holding up on the joystick stop this jumping?

If so, your microswitch may have the wire on NC (Normally closed), instead of NO (Normally open) and youll need to move it across.

NC Normally closed pin on a microswitch, will keep that button active permanently and only pressing/holding up on the joystick breaks that connection.

NO Normally open means you need to tap that microswitch for it to create the connection and perform the command - i.e. the correct thing needed in this case.

 

If this is not the case, it sounds like your wire from your "NO" area of the microswitch is going straight to ground instead of Parts side pin 18 of the JAMMA harness. An easy test would be to completely disconnect both wires from your UP microswitch on player one joystick - daisy chain a ground wire from another button onto the COMMON pin on that microswitch, and run a separate wire as a test from NO (normally open pin on microswitch) directly to pin 18 parts side on JAMMA harness and test again.

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Thanks mrjamma. It was a lot more simple - it looks like the biscuit that changes the wiring from LAI to JAMMA had been contacting the rear of the PCB in the corner, causing a short. Separating them seems to have solved the problem.

 

Now for my next peculiarity. I've downloaded the Capcom SF2CE manual and set the dip switches to have 2 coins = 1 credit in coin slot A and 1 coin for 3 credits in slot B. The test mode confirms these parameters, yet placing a single coin in the 20c slot gives a credit. The $1 coin in the other slot works as designed. Why would this be?

 

Sent using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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Good news dude!

 

Regarding your coin setup:

 

So your cab is running two coin mechs from what youve said / what i can see in the photos.

Youre saying left one takes 20c only an right one takes $1 only.

Couldnt see a credit board in pics, or is there one behind the door or something?

Or are your two mechs wired directly to the harness? if thats the case, where are the wires tracing to?

Would be curious to see how its wired before can comment further

Might also be worth getting a couple pics of the back side of the coin mechs

 

See with a credit board, you have a 20c wiring input, $1 & $2, which you wire up from coin mech (or some use ribbon interface).

Credit board also has dipswitches.

Then depending on the value that credit board is receiving via those separate $ value inputs, and via the dip switches setup on that credit board, it calculates the monetary value to decide when to output a credit e.g. generally for street fighter, itd output to Pin 16 parts side Left coin input, which credits street fighter.

 

If however you have one coin mech which is 20c only wired to say pin 16 parts side (Left coin) and second coin mech $1 only which wires directly to either that same pin, or say Pin 16 bottom side (right coin), and no credit board - then simply receiving any 'coin' in the associated mech which the mech recognises, I imagine, would simply just output a credit straight to the game PCB regardless of currency

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There's no coin PCB, just a simple switch in each mechanism. I'll have to trace the wires to the JAMMA connector to find out where they run to, but I figured that once a signal was received by the PCB, it would check against the dip switch configuration to determine whether enough credit had been inserted (ie. looking for 1 or 3 coins). Each coin slot gives a different number of credits following insertion so they don't appear to be wired to the same pin on the board.

 

I'll investigate further when I get a chance.

 

Thanks again for all your exceptional advice.20190313_221129.thumb.jpeg.222fb328b28e6cc02e7a14a32d1bb094.jpeg20190313_220951.thumb.jpeg.2f7b8d778bf16acd09f189dbe19ec65d.jpeg20190313_221106.thumb.jpeg.bebc48b9a1e3739d63d76b987bd4196e.jpeg20190313_221329.thumb.jpeg.e64eb6143e1e2ac1601857bf5f26e61f.jpeg

 

Sent using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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Ok, so when you check, can you confirm the dip switches and wiring are as below:

 

JAMMA pin 16 top side = Coin up 1

This wire I imagine would be going to the Normally open pin on the micro switch on your 20cent coin mech (please read on below though, looks like itll likely be going to 'common' on that microswitch instead, however should work ok, as the NO pin on that microswitch has the ground instead)

Dip switch A would be 1 ON 2 OFF 3 ON for 2 coins to equal 1 credit (not set to OFF OFF OFF right?)

 

JAMMA pin 16 bottom side (or Pin T as its referred to in the manual) = Coin up 2

This wire I imagine would be going to the Normally open pin on the micro switch on your $1 coin mech

Dip switch A would be 4 OFF 5 ON 6 OFF for 1 coin to equal 3 credits right?

 

In terms of the wiring on those two mechs - looks a bit spaghetti with a mix of different coloured wires and joiner plugs/chopped wires, etc.

Looking from behind, it looks as though:

 

Left side one from rear/right side from front:

Assuming this is your $1 mech

Microswitch has one wire on normally open (yellow) going back to the main harness - confirm where its going

Has a green wire which i assume is ground on the common pin of the microswitch.This pin also has a red wire daisy chaining across to other mech - see below.

 

Right side one from rear / left side from front:

Assuming this is your 20c mech

Microswitch has an orange wire from main harness (where is it going to in the main harness?) going to the 'common' part of the microswitch.

Whilst this is 'technically' in the wrong spot on the microswitch, it would still work to make a circuit with whatever is connected to Normally open pin, when the button is activated.

It also has a black wire on the same pin which is connected to a green wire (joiner) which is cut off and doing nothing, which is fine. I assume this was a ground at some point and was chopped, as that pin was no longer being used for ground function. To avoid confusion, maybe just cut that extra unused wire off.

The normally open pin has a red wire, which appears to be the ground wire daisying from the 'common' ground from the other mech. Again 'technically' in the wrong spot, but should still function.

In short - the microswitch has one ground and one trigger on each pin.

 

The free play switch is just taking one wire of each from the 20c mech. When you press this button, it should replicate the same thing as putting a coin into that slot I would think. Does this happen? i.e. pressing once does 1 credit, instead of needing to press it twice for one credit?

 

Admittedly, I'm more familiar with the functions of more modern programmable coin mechs + credit boards.

One thing I can't answer, is whether these 2 coin mechs in use are simply:

- put in whatever coin fits, and this will simply trigger that microswitch attached to it, and send a 1:1 signal each time

or

- are these coin mechs configurable to do otherwise... Maybe someone can give some info on this

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Strange thing happened today - I checked the path of the wires and it was running as expected. I powered the machine up and lo-and-behold, the bloody thing works as intended! Not sure if jiggling wires somehow mad a difference, but it's definitely taking two 20c coins in the left slot to get a credit (makes a sound for first coin but no credit displayed) then second coin leads to the "credit: 1" display. A single $1 coin in the right hand slot gives 3 credits.

 

So now that I'm happy with all that, I'm going away for a little bit, then will strip out the chassis so Joey at Jomac can work his magic on it.

 

After that I'm going to source a second PCB just so I can have an alternative in this cab. I can't make up my mind between Ghosts'n Goblins or Raiden.... thoughts guys?

 

I'd like to emphasise my appreciation for all your help mrjamma. Without you this machine wouldn't be what it now is, so thanks mate!

 

Nick

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That's what I was afraid of. I guess I'll have to find another cab with rotated monitor for shmups :D

 

In the future I'll try to fabricate a replica of this LAI lowboy and stick my MAME setup in it. I don't like the full-sized cab it currently resides in...

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