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Thread: My first cab minor restoration project

  1. #21
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    What does cause that pincushioning?

    On another note, what sort of fluorescent tube fitting was used in these LAI cabs? The photo below shows two clips with no housing and four individual wire connectors. Was it a naked tube with two connectors fitted to each end?

    20190224_181911.jpeg

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  2. #22
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    Power supply issue to the flyback, mb. Would probably drive a lamp fine

    The fluoro would have been a 15W T8, not too hard to get. Tube can go in either way round, and either connector can go on either pin, as long as you don't mix the wires up between ends.

  3. #23
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    To add insult to injury I just took delivery of a CPS1 SF2CE PCB, but trying to connect the JAMMA plug, it's too tight. Is it fair to just cut away some plastic to enable it to seat, or do I need to get a whole new harness wired up?20190308_182957.jpeg

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  4. #24
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    I'd hack the connector loooong before I would hack the board, its survived 30 years in minty condition, would be a real shame to hack it to fit a $1 yum cha-chinese connector.
    Sic transit gloria Atari!

  5. #25
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    Just hot knife the earth end so its bit wider. Works well that way
    you can always expect change in life..except from vending machines

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Womble View Post
    I'd hack the connector loooong before I would hack the board, its survived 30 years in minty condition, would be a real shame to hack it to fit a $1 yum cha-chinese connector.
    Don't get me wrong, I had no intention of touching the board!

  7. #27
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    Update:

    I purchased a new 15W fluorescent tube for the marquee, removed some excess plastic from the JAMMA harness and powered it up. The original kick harness wiring for the bootleg board was different to the original, so had to wire up a loom to change the pins to those of the connector on the CPS1 board. I had issues with the hard kick button on player 2 not working as the contact in the kick harness was poor, but finally sorted that one.

    I've gone into the TEST MODE and all joystick movements and buttons appear to respond normally, however when I start a game, player 1 is constantly jumping - what should I check to stop this behaviour? It's as if the joystick up switch is being triggered but it's "OFF" in test mode.

    The other thing I've noticed is the lack of sounds from certain sound codes from the test menu. Is this normal? The missing sounds are:
    00H DCH 8EH
    FFH D9H 78H
    FEH D7H
    FDH D2H
    FCH
    FBH CFH 3FH
    FAH CDH 3AH
    F9H C8H 30H
    F8H
    F7H BEH 17H
    F6H
    F5H 4EH
    F4H 4BH
    F3H 49H
    F2H 44H
    F1H 41H
    F0H

    So I'm getting closer to having it sorted. Will have to send the chassis off to Jomac as it needs a good service/tune to eradicate the pincushioning and adjust the size to fit the screen properly.

    20190310_165953.jpg20190310_165959.jpg

  8. #28
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    Good result. Aside from the obvious pin cushion issue, the good news is that your tube itself looks great. Excellent convergence and good brightness levels. Once Joey sorts the chassis, it should look awesome.

  9. #29
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    @NRB
    "player 1 is constantly jumping"

    Couple of queries:
    - Whilst your old PCB had graphical issues, did it exhibit the same behaviour?
    - You mentioned it says OFF in test menu - this is the case even if you tap UP - or when tapping up it responds normally? or simply does not respond at all?

    If both PCBs are automatically doing this, it sounds as though your 'UP' wire on the joystick 1's microswitch, is being permanently grounded or is on NC tab of microswitch

    - Inside the game, whilst it keeps jumping UP by itself, does pressing and holding up on the joystick stop this jumping?
    If so, your microswitch may have the wire on NC (Normally closed), instead of NO (Normally open) and youll need to move it across.
    NC Normally closed pin on a microswitch, will keep that button active permanently and only pressing/holding up on the joystick breaks that connection.
    NO Normally open means you need to tap that microswitch for it to create the connection and perform the command - i.e. the correct thing needed in this case.

    If this is not the case, it sounds like your wire from your "NO" area of the microswitch is going straight to ground instead of Parts side pin 18 of the JAMMA harness. An easy test would be to completely disconnect both wires from your UP microswitch on player one joystick - daisy chain a ground wire from another button onto the COMMON pin on that microswitch, and run a separate wire as a test from NO (normally open pin on microswitch) directly to pin 18 parts side on JAMMA harness and test again.

  10. #30
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    Thanks mrjamma. It was a lot more simple - it looks like the biscuit that changes the wiring from LAI to JAMMA had been contacting the rear of the PCB in the corner, causing a short. Separating them seems to have solved the problem.

    Now for my next peculiarity. I've downloaded the Capcom SF2CE manual and set the dip switches to have 2 coins = 1 credit in coin slot A and 1 coin for 3 credits in slot B. The test mode confirms these parameters, yet placing a single coin in the 20c slot gives a credit. The $1 coin in the other slot works as designed. Why would this be?

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