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taito

Question

Hi guys,

 

Just wondering if I could gather some opinions on this rather specialized subject. I have a yoke where I measured the following.

 

H = 5 Ohms

V = 70 Ohms

 

I wanted to use a universal chassis but that's rated as follows

 

H= 1.3 Ohms

V = 9.6 Ohms

 

But this that's out of the question.

 

23"-27" tube

 

Does anyone know a chassis that does this range?

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23"-27" tube

H = 5 Ohms

V = 70 Ohms

 

That's your tube size and readings, yes? I've not heard of any tube with either reading that high, but i haven't really seen that much. FYI the two coils of the vertical yoke are probably wired in series. If you rewire them in parallel you'll reduce the vertical reading to 17.5R, which is still van unusual reading to be looking for.

 

What's the make and model of the tube and original chassis for it?

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Hi @buttersoft, yes. 23"

Horizontal Ohms 5

Vertical Ohms 70

110 deflection angle

heater filament 6.3 Volts 0.6A

 

The tube is a AW 59-90 equivalent. (Anodeon Branded 23 inch 110 degree deflection tube).

 

It's a valve tv chassis Kriesler 79-5B but I doubt if that helps. I don't want to use the chassis it's valve and a monster to service and lift.

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A valve tv! Holy moly, you might open with that kind of info next time. Is it even in colour? That size tube is super unusual to begin with, i've never heard of it from the 80's and on, which is when arcade and TV sets start becoming standardised, IIRC. Let alone the fact you'd have to check the pinout and all sorts of other things. I have no advice, but i'm going to watch the thread with interest and see what happens :)
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Thanks for your replies guys.. @soyl @buttersoft

 

Just wondering if anyone new of a chassis that has that kind of output. But owning to the fact that it's a tube that used a valve chassis, I might be out of luck and just go with a more recent tube/chassis combo. It's just that this tube is a beautiful fit, about 398mm deep. Get ya rulers out peebs, that's short!!!! Sprint 2 cab.

 

I could make a cage to go around the neck, as many have suggested, but would prefer to try this first. Plus.. a black and white game with a black and white tube is cool. YMMV. :)

 

Again, thanks for your thoughts and insights, just kicking this one around... If anyone else has any advice, please chime in. :)

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That's a black and white tube and you cannot of course drive it with a chassis intended for colour picture tubes.

 

Could you please elaborate what you mean cannot drive the tube? I respect your opinion, but would like to know why. Think of it as a mercy mission, put me out of my misery... and put and end to all this talk and foolishness! lol :)

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The macro differences are that a colour CRT has three cathodes for RGB whereas a B&W CRT has only one. The grids in the electron guns are different or expect very different voltages, e.g. the focusing grid of a colour picture tube needs 8-9KV vs less than 1KV for a B&W. The anode voltage is also quite higher for colour CRTs. A chassis for a colour monitor complies with the features of a colour CRT and not with those of a B&W CRT. You couldn't even physically connect the colour chassis to a B&W tube as the necks are different.

 

There are 23" B&W arcade monitors made by Wells Gardner like the 22V1003 but I don't know if the yoke of your tube is compatible with it.

22v1003.jpg

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Thanks @soyl. Yeah the wells comes closest. I found a schematic for the Motorala version, its deflection values were 30 and 2. So not close enough. This is owing to the fact that the tube I have came from and old valve TV.

 

I was going to tackle each difference one at a time.

 

The connector is no issue. I've done neck board swaps on a couple of chassis. (I was going to satellite the new neck-board and run wires to the old connector...remove the K, G2 and G3 from the new neck-board and run it up to the older connector)

I would only keep the new neck-board for the drive circuit but I have now discovered some differences here too. Most modern chassis have G1 at Gnd, but the TV chassis has it at around 90V. K is also quite high at 93, but I don't know if this could be ok?

 

The focus and screen voltages are adjustable, somewhat and thought they could be dialed in, but you are saying that's not possible?

 

There are some standouts though that make it difficult or not possible. I didn't realize the Anode cap voltages varied as much as you described and that could be a major show stopper. I don't want to put myself or anyone in danger with x-rays.

 

 

Thanks for your reply soyl,

Cheers mate

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So with a bit of time on my hands and talking to friends, I've come to the conclusion that this ain't going to happen. I'm going to go with a colour tube and chassis. and just do the small conversion to black and white. It means I have to build a small cage on the back as the colour tubes I've seen are deeper than the b&w tube. 398mm! But that's a small price to pay to get this thing sorted and playing again!!!! :)

 

Big thanks to Dez for his timely advice. :)

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Oh... hold the phone... this came in at the last minute. Wayne electronics sent me a link to a working chassis and yoke, just like the one pictured above. I have it coming over from the US. I bid on it but missed. Then the buyer reneged, so I got a chance to grab it. Thanks to Parker at Michigan Pinball. It's and old Desert Gun. So very excited. One last go at getting this original spec.

 

23VP111A-Q05.jpg

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So if you haven't been following, I'm taking the chassis and yoke, pictured above and marring it to the tube I have take from an old TV B&W set. My tube is a AW59-90 equivalent. The tube in the picture above has this pin-out.

 

22VATP4.png

 

Looks like it should work.

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Why do I need the original chassis?

 

Why do I need the original chassis when I have a working chassis in there already?

 

Well it's a valve chassis. It's heavy, bulky, and unless you're a valve expert, more difficult to work on. I've pretty much gave up on it. It's working but there's jitter. Change the caps you say. I've changed quite a few, but it's getting expensive, and I kind of over it... have a look at the underside.... :blink:

 

I think the heralding in of the PCB would have been well received. Who wants to work on this rats nest?

 

20190207_231745.jpg

 

Here's a few pics of the game running probably the last time with the TV chassis.

 

20190207_231935.jpg

 

20190207_232002.jpg

 

20190207_232034.jpg

 

20190207_232013.jpg

 

I certainly learnt a bit getting it going but I'm done now with this valve technology, enter solid state!! :)

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Hi guys,

 

I picked up this awesome TV from ebay. It's a Sharp colour 21"

 

ebaysharp.jpeg

 

 

The sweet spot is, it has a full 20" viewing area! :o That's a quite a big picture in my books, when standing right in front.

 

Glancing at other recent posts of mine you'll soon work out that I'm obsessed at the moment. I just want to get my sprint 2 running properly and it's the tube/yoke/chassis combo that's been keeping me back. So I'm hitting the problem from all possible sides. (It's going to get done. I need to rearrange the space and it's in the way). One of the strategies is to get a tv with composite and build a shroud for the neck of the tube. Hence purchasing this TV. It was a timely buy and cheap. $15. :D

 

It has composite in. It gives a great picture. Turning sharpness down to 20% contrast at 70% and brightness 100%. If the chassis from the states doesn't work out. This is the back up plan. I'm not fussy at this point. Besides check out the pictures. The only slight difference is the grill. B&W's, bless them, don't have grills so there's no pix-elation. Just stripes! Cool huh!

 

20190212_134137.jpg

 

The model is a S ANUBIS-S AA

Tube 21GX1562 /75R

 

Once programmed it remembers to start at AV too! It's a bitch however trying to workout how to do that. I accidentally saved it to the channels. Took me ages to work out how to get the AV back. You have to go through skip menu from memory.

 

 

So I have the chassis now. It's in great condition, but the yoke didn't arrive with it. Full story in "Yoke doodling", https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/98346-Yoke-doodling, trying to match a yoke. Multiple strategies!

 

chassis1.jpg

 

chassis2.jpg

 

So glad the Varo HV diode didn't get busted on the way over.

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Did you try coin op Kev? He had rows of 23" B/W monitors at one point.

 

Thanks John, no I didn't know he had any. I'm kind of committed now ( :straight jacket emoji needed) to either the Sharp TV, the Motorola chassis with my make shift yoke, or the original yoke when it gets here. I'll try him if all these avenues fail. Cheers

 

Is he?.. Kev's Family Entertainment... 57A Great Western Highway, Kingswood, New South Wales

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Thanks John, no I didn't know he had any. I'm kind of committed now ( :straight jacket emoji needed) to either the Sharp TV, the Motorola chassis with my make shift yoke, or the original yoke when it gets here. I'll try him if all these avenues fail. Cheers

 

Is he?.. Kev's Family Entertainment... 57A Great Western Highway, Kingswood, New South Wales

 

Yes KFE.

 

Personally I wouldn't try screwing with the yoke, you might damage your chassis. It shouldn't be hard to find a suitable yoke, just ask on KLOV.

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Hey @dezbaz

 

Yeah, that's the Sharp. It's colour. Great picture eh? I think if I had my time over, for $15, a great solution to my problem! :)

 

The trick is to turn down the sharpness, stops that awful flair, medium contrast and all brightness.

 

That's the back up plan, as I've already worked out, in another thread, Yoke doodling, that I'd need a 110 degree deflection yoke, not the 90 degree one I have.

 

But yeah, got onto him last night his morning, lol, and he'd already got onto the guy who he gave the yoke to, so sounds good!

 

UPDATE: Just got word from the seller that he's got the Yoke back and is sending it out tomorrow. Sigh. :)

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Wholly guacamole Batman, it's here!

 

20190227_153152.jpg

 

It was great to have the reference picture. But I also discovered the colour coding. There's little coloured dots at the right terminal points to hook it up properly...plus I checked the Ohms. :)

 

Black - GND

Green - Vertical

Red - Horizontal

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It's a perfect match!!!!!

 

Good news to report!!

 

After a hour or so making sure the connections were all good and safe.

 

20190227_194637.jpg

 

Line switch changed to 230V Check! Anode cap connected... Check! I held my breath an powered up it.

 

 

Got a nice glow from the tube

 

glow.jpg

 

Checked out front and a picture and yes! Relief.

 

20190227_194610.jpg

 

But the picture was dark and where were the other three cars!!? And the picture was rotated 180 degrees. I just rotated the yoke since it was coming in the right way round and that worked. Then after some tweaking, contrast brightness focus and video bias (on the PCB), it came up a treat. I am one very happy camper!!!! :)

 

20190227_215247.jpg

 

and here's the profile this tube has.

 

profile.jpeg

 

So this is an original chassis, and being black and white there's no grill, so there's no pixlation. Just crazy bronze age Atari video game dots and lines, they start and end where ever the electron gun says. I think that's pretty cool in itself.

 

THANKS:

 

This has been a long road and a lot of time effort and study went into this. I think it was well worth it.

 

I would like to thank @JimmyD for first encouraging me to get the cab in the first place and for all his encouragement along the way. I would like to thank @dezbaz for lending me his ear, in trying to sort out a solution for this awkward puzzle, and his time talking technical with me. :) Thanks to Wayes Electronics for sending me the link of the Motorola chassis!! And thank you Parker at Michigan Pinball for packing the items so well and sending it a such a great price. I would like to thank @gingerbreadman for the dropping the cab off at such a great price! And lastly, thank you Lady Luck!! :o

Edited by taito
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