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Thread: BALLY / STERN Solid State Custom Playfields

  1. #21

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    thanks for your time explaining this @kress

    can you post a picture of the flipper setup that you are running just confirm what I think you are doing

    I am still puzzled / surprised that the altek boards coupled with the rectifier board deliver 40vdc to 50vdc coil flippers resulting in stronger flippers - I thought they may have become weaker due to less voltage going to a 50vdc coil..

    love your work on all the custom builds, man you pump them out - very inspiring.....
    Last edited by swinks; 5 Days Ago at 07:32 PM.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by swinks View Post
    thanks for your time explaining this @kress

    can you post a picture of the flipper setup that you are running just confirm what I think you are doing

    I am still puzzled / surprised that the altek boards coupled with the rectifier board deliver 40vdc to 50vdc coil flippers resulting in stronger flippers - I thought they may have become weaker due to less voltage going to a 50vdc coil..

    love your work on all the custom builds, man you pump them out - very inspiring.....
    Try this video with the view that the 43vDC on a Bally solenoid rail is an average voltage measured by your meter
    and not a capacitor filtered / peak voltage.
    eg 43v x 1.4 = 60.2volts would be the filtered/peak dc volts (if you put a capacitor across the bridge rectifier as you would find on a DMD power supply).
    That peak voltage is still present just not measured by your meter when set to DC.

    On other builds of mine I generally go for 57VDC filtered supply for ramp power (derived from a 40voltAC transformer) on a street level game this is
    just not required.

    Last edited by kress; 5 Days Ago at 08:30 PM.
    fOr No rAIsOn

  3. #23

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    Have you guys considered not using 43vDC like Bally did?. I'll be using 24-28vDC myself because Williams coils are just so much easier and cheaper to get hold of but it can be any DC voltage providing you don't go over the TIP 120 transistor's rating and nothing stops you from using multiple voltages when you consider all the transistors on the SDB do is simply ground the coil or whatever, not supply it's voltage.

    You could have 12vDC devices, 28volt devices, 43v devices or what ever all being controlled by the transistors just as long as the different power supplies powering the devices all share the same ground and that ground is connected to the appropriate voltage power supply.

    It just means the power wire going to the coil or what ever will need to be the voltage of the part you are going to drive instead of the one "daisy chained" 43vDC supply wire Bally used. The transistor is turned on and this supplys the return for the part and you just turned on your 12, 28, 43 or what ever voltage part.

    The machine knows no difference. It is just grounding the part, not supplying it's voltage. That is determined by the wire connected to the other side of the part.

    As for the flippers, exactly the same except instead of a transistor doing the switching, it is a relay. You want to run Williams 50volt flipper coils, just have the flipper coil supply wire at 50v instead of the normal Bally 43vDC and the relay will switch the 50volts back to the flipper buttons and the other side of the flipper button goes on to ground as seen here.



    If like me you decide you want to use William's 28vDC flipper coils, where the diagram says +43VDC at the coils, you supply only 28vDC.

    If you want to use Williams late model flipper assemblies but want to use original short Bally or other brand short flipper coils and voltages, simply remove the long coils from the Williams late model assembly leaving the backstop in place, position your short coil on the backstop, relocate the coil retaining bracket, mark where the holes now have to go and drill and tap new holes. Here is a picture showing this mod done on a "short flipper coil machine"...



    Don't change any other part including the plungers and you now have late model Williams flipper assemblies using your original short flipper coils. Something people should consider when doing flipper work on any machine because not only are these Williams assemblies by far the best to work on, they are also the cheapest parts.

    As for the Bally lamp driver, you may like to consider using 12vDC rather than the normal Bally voltage to drive the switched illumination after all, you will probably be using LEDs, not GE44 bulbs and 12v is just a much easier voltage to work with. 12vDC is well within specs of the SCRs. You just need to locate the switched illumination supply wire going to the lamp driver board and change it to a 12vDC supply. Just don't filter it with a cap or the SCRs won't turn off. It needs to be just rectified, not filtered by a cap.

    You guys were also talking about transformers or what the hell you want to power the machine with. Old school halogen down light transformers is my choice. They come in 12vAC, 24vAC and if you look around 36 and 48vAC. They are virtually being thrown away these days, come in different amperage ratings and any lighting place has them, cheap. Personally I am thinking two 12vAC 105 watt units wired in series for my needs. Tap onto the first transformer to supply the 12vAC for converting to the 5vDC you are going to need for the electronics and tap onto the second transformer for the 12vDC you are likely to want.

    Go from the input of the first transformer and the output of the second transformer, (these are wired in series as well remember), and there is your 24vAC just needing to be rectified for your coils. Put a big cap on this rectified voltage like Williams did and there is you coil voltage should you want 24-28vDC or put 4 of these trannys in series for 48vAC that you can convert to either 43vDC or higher for the Williams 50vDC coils.

    One thing I am trying to do with HomeBrew is designing in cheap.

  4. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Autosteve View Post
    You guys were also talking about transformers or what the hell you want to power the machine with. Old school halogen down light transformers is my choice. They come in 12vAC, 24vAC and if you look around 36 and 48vAC. They are virtually being thrown away these days, come in different amperage ratings and any lighting place has them, cheap. Personally I am thinking two 12vAC 105 watt units wired in series for my needs. Tap onto the first transformer to supply the 12vAC for converting to the 5vDC you are going to need for the electronics and tap onto the second transformer for the 12vDC you are likely to want.

    Go from the input of the first transformer and the output of the second transformer, (these are wired in series as well remember), and there is your 24vAC just needing to be rectified for your coils. Put a big cap on this rectified voltage like Williams did and there is you coil voltage should you want 24-28vDC or put 4 of these trannys in series for 48vAC that you can convert to either 43vDC or higher for the Williams 50vDC coils.



    One thing I am trying to do with HomeBrew is designing in cheap.
    I get where you coming from but for the purposes of this build every effort is being made to keep within the original specs of the game.
    Im not that interested in a minor cost saving if it pushes the game outside spec.
    Someone looking at the schematics down the track hopefully wont need anything other than the Bally part number.
    We aren't trying to reinvent the wheel... just change the tyre.
    fOr No rAIsOn

  5. #25

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    Yer, sorry about that. It was an opportunity to get some ideas out there but they would require schematic diagram alterations if you were to use some of them. I was also answering some of @swinks questions.

  6. #26

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    thanks for the info Autosteve, very helpful

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