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Street Fighter 2 Arcade Cab with Hyper Fighting. Options for restore?


Manfur

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Hi all,

 

I have so many questions, My goal is to try to restore this original 90's cab to its true form as much as possible but searching for hours for parts and answers I don't think it will be possible.

I picked up this cabinet for $200. Basically guy said it had been stored for years but was working last time he had it on. ( That was a lie) I originally offered $300 but when picking up item it was in a bad way with power cord cut for some reason and and a few wires loose.

That's why I offered $200 and saw some potential on salvaging parts out of it at the very least.

 

Anyhow please watch Video to see the state of it as it is currently.

 

The crt might be gone and the chassis is gone for sure. I hope the Gameboard is at least working, If not I'll just turn it into a mame cab.

 

Really need advice on necktube as I show in video I see some pins inside glass not connected and not sure if that is normal. The crt is a Hitachi 20" 510NJB22 and the chassis is a Toei CM-A20

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ruU6kDyRAJju5n9R7

 

***UPDATE*** Gameboard is Rainbow edition not Hyper Fighting.

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Edited by Manfur
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Welcome to AA.

 

There are many ways this can be properly restored to its 90s glory, but none of them will be cheap if you want to keep it original. Basically, you have a 90s lowboy cab that is JAMMA wired with a 20 inch monitor. Very common cabs in Australia. It has a CPS1 board which are repairable if it doesn't work, but it will cost you. They are fiddly boards to work on. If you find someone local with a JAMMA wired machine, you can test the board in their cab to see what it does. This would be where I would start, see if the gameboard works, as that will inform your next steps.

 

First thing, some of the wiring in that cab is truly, truly shitty. It's bad enough to be a safety hazard if you switch it on. The first thing you would want to do is to find someone who can make the wiring safe with heatshrink and proper connectors.

 

The good news, your CRT neck glass is intact, which means the tube might be OK. You can buy a new chassis to match the tube from Jomac, but before you do that, you need to figure out if that is worth the cost. If you want to go easy, you can strip the CRT and put an LCD in. I wouldn't, but lots of people would. You can use a converter to connect your JAMMA wiring to the LCD, it's a cheap and easy way to go and saves the hassle of messing with CRTs.

 

However, before you do anything, do the rewiring. You need someone who knows enough about 110V-240V to replace the power cord and ensure that the stepdown transformer is safe and functioning. DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF UNLESS YOU UNDERSTAND HOW!! There's literally stuff in that cab that could kill you when powered on. Don't let this scare you, just ensure that you do not do anything without the assistance of someone who knows their stuff.

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I know the wiring is atrocious, When I first went over it my jaw dropped. The soldering on the Jamma connectors overlap on parallel pins. I'm not sure if that was intentional or not.

I can fix the wiring myself and with help from my dad (retired electrician) I can go over the power supply and transformer.

 

I'm curious do you know why are there step down transformers on Australian cabs?

 

Thanks for the advice, I have actually already contacted some work mates with arcade machines to test board to see if it works. I do not want to use lcd besides I already built a Mame bartop arcade running windows 10 with lcd. https://photos.app.goo.gl/hynARzHJLjvEmtT57

 

Question about the Jamma kick harness, If my work mates Jamma machines don't have a kick harness that should not affect if the game board will boot up or not correct? From what I understand the kick harness is for buttons 4, 5, & 6.

 

Thanks again.

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There are step-downs in Aussie cabs because the large majority of monitors run at 110V. The 240V would power the fluro in the marquee and the arcade PSU. The step-down is fed 240V to bring it down to 110V and power the monitor.

 

The connected JAMMA pins are connected as grounds, that's meant to be that way. There will be connected pins at both ends of the harness.

 

The lack of a kick harness will not prevent a board from booting, it just won't have the kick harness buttons working.

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At $200 thats not bad imho.

Pcb looks more like a CE rather than HF to my eyes but both are great! Hope it works!

 

namastepat's advice is spot on.

 

Stepdown and tube will probably work. Who knows how good the tube will look tho. Powersupply maybe. Chassis unlikely. Could get lucky but as previously stated DONT MESS WITH THE ZAPPY BITS UNSUPERVISED

 

Good luck and post the updates

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950F using Aussie Arcade mobile app

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Welcome to AA.

 

There are many ways this can be properly restored to its 90s glory, but none of them will be cheap if you want to keep it original. Basically, you have a 90s lowboy cab that is JAMMA wired with a 20 inch monitor. Very common cabs in Australia. It has a CPS1 board which are repairable if it doesn't work, but it will cost you. They are fiddly boards to work on. If you find someone local with a JAMMA wired machine, you can test the board in their cab to see what it does. This would be where I would start, see if the gameboard works, as that will inform your next steps.

 

First thing, some of the wiring in that cab is truly, truly shitty. It's bad enough to be a safety hazard if you switch it on. The first thing you would want to do is to find someone who can make the wiring safe with heatshrink and proper connectors.

 

The good news, your CRT neck glass is intact, which means the tube might be OK. You can buy a new chassis to match the tube from Jomac, but before you do that, you need to figure out if that is worth the cost. If you want to go easy, you can strip the CRT and put an LCD in. I wouldn't, but lots of people would. You can use a converter to connect your JAMMA wiring to the LCD, it's a cheap and easy way to go and saves the hassle of messing with CRTs.

 

However, before you do anything, do the rewiring. You need someone who knows enough about 110V-240V to replace the power cord and ensure that the stepdown transformer is safe and functioning. DO NOT DO THIS YOURSELF UNLESS YOU UNDERSTAND HOW!! There's literally stuff in that cab that could kill you when powered on. Don't let this scare you, just ensure that you do not do anything without the assistance of someone who knows their stuff.

 

post of the month 10/10

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So I had a few hours today to play with finally. I cleaned up all the power connectors and made sure it was safe electrically.

I borrowed my friends CGA to VGA converter and did a hack connection with alligator clips because connector was a different size.

Please follow my google drive link to video to see my results.

The board boots up fine with sound but the graphics is scrambled.

Who knows what could be the cause of this?

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iU-voIC6Y0nxSkxiUnLzE8lzd3G-1ytJ/view?usp=sharing

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Thanks! Im on the Central Coast at Long Jetty, Is that near you?

 

*UPDATE* Tested power supply DC Voltage with multimeter. +5v reads 5.80v, -5v reads -5.0v, +12v reads 12.15v.

Is the +5v too high? Should I bother Adjusting?

Edited by Manfur
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At $200 thats not bad imho.

Pcb looks more like a CE rather than HF to my eyes but both are great! Hope it works!

 

I believe your right about champion edition board. Even though the graphics are scrambled when you watch both intros the Hyper fighting text at the end just appears in red and the Champion edition version text scrolls in from the sides of screen.

 

Video in link https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iU-voIC6Y0nxSkxiUnLzE8lzd3G-1ytJ/view?usp=sharing

 

*Update* It is indeed Rainbow Edition.

Edited by Manfur
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So I had a few hours today to play with finally. I cleaned up all the power connectors and made sure it was safe electrically.

I borrowed my friends CGA to VGA converter and did a hack connection with alligator clips because connector was a different size.

Please follow my google drive link to video to see my results.

The board boots up fine with sound but the graphics is scrambled.

Who knows what could be the cause of this?

 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1iU-voIC6Y0nxSkxiUnLzE8lzd3G-1ytJ/view?usp=sharing

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Thanks! Im on the Central Coast at Long Jetty, Is that near you?

 

*UPDATE* Tested power supply DC Voltage with multimeter. +5v reads 5.80v, -5v reads -5.0v, +12v reads 12.15v.

Is the +5v too high? Should I bother Adjusting?

 

I'd say try bringing the 5v down to around 5.1 and see how the graphics look. Hopefully it won't drag the 12 volts right down too (if the power supply is stuffed). This board doesn't need the -5v so don't worry about that reading.

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Brought +5v down to 5.1v, the 12v remained unchanged at 12.15v. looks like I might have a problem similar to another streetfighter hyper fighting in this forum where most of the glitches were solved by dumping ROMs and replacing and reprogramming chips. I wish I knew what hardware or software is required to try myself.
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@Manfur

Unfortunately not close by, im in Parramatta area

 

With the game powered on, gently put some pressure on the top C board chip area (the same board where kick harness connects).

I had a similar issue and it ended up being a couple of loose/broken pins on the top C board main B-21 chip

If no luck, try the above suggestion 100% as well of re-seating

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At least you know the power side of things is OK, keep an eye on it though to make sure it doesn't have intermittent faults. Have you tested the board in a known working cabinet yet? I'd try to rule out the CGA to VGA converter being an issue.
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I have re-seated them a few times now, but the last time I went over all chips on all boards with a firm press as some of them looked like they could go in deeper on one side. A felt a few go in a smidget.

It appeared to improve the image somewhat with more defind vertical bold lines, I played a bit a realised I actually have Rainbow edition streetfighter. I could make out multiple fireballs going up and down simultaneously and Shoryuken in the middle of Air and Heavy helicopter kick flies across the screen with super speed.

This is interesting, Was this a bootleg version or official release by Capcom I wonder?

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I would love too try that. Is there anyone near the Central Coast of NSW, Long Jetty?

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I have a genuine CPS1 hardware boardset, but has 'hacked' roms in locations 21,22,23 on the B board - thus Rainbow edition game.

Its not an official capcom software release, usually these hacks came from Taiwan

People usually remove those roms, erase them and reprogram back to Champion or Hyper Fighting

 

Considering you haven't had luck reseating and putting pressure, definitely worth trying another cabinet to rule out the video converter in use, as Mick80 suggested. Hopefully you find someone on the coast.

Do you ever come down Sydney way? As a last resort if you cant find any help, you could post it to me if you wanted to test in my cab and pay for return postage, but im not a repairer so not sure there'd be much value in it as Id only be testing it for you.

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I have re-seated them a few times now, but the last time I went over all chips on all boards with a firm press as some of them looked like they could go in deeper on one side. A felt a few go in a smidget.

It appeared to improve the image somewhat with more defind vertical bold lines, I played a bit a realised I actually have Rainbow edition streetfighter. I could make out multiple fireballs going up and down simultaneously and Shoryuken in the middle of Air and Heavy helicopter kick flies across the screen with super speed.

This is interesting, Was this a bootleg version or official release by Capcom I wonder?

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I would love too try that. Is there anyone near the Central Coast of NSW, Long Jetty?

 

I'm sure someone can help you out with that. I'm in the central west so not much help either.

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IMG_20180716_175750.jpgIMG_20180716_175809.jpgIMG_20180716_182704.jpg

 

I was given a CPS-2 Street Fighter Zero 2 unit which had a Suicide battery leak all over it. I understand the B board is irreparable but Is the A board good for parts to fix my CPS-1 Rainbow Edition game?

 

I read a comment in another thread where a few chips were replaced to fix glitching on Hyper Fighting.

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