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    Thread: Matsushita TM-25Y chassis repair.

    1. #1
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      Matsushita TM-25Y chassis repair.

      Doing a bit of early work on my Matsushita TM-25Y chassis & the 1st fault is found. The ferrite slug in the Horz width coil was cracked in three. Also whoever broke the slug hid the damage by soldering a resistor under the PCB to adjust the screen width. Anyway I need a replacement slug not knowing how long it was, however by the amount of broken slug that came out I'm guessing around 12~15mm the thread is the same as those Ikea furniture bolts. If anyone has one or knows a local source that would be a great start.
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      Last edited by Gemini2544; 1 Week Ago at 01:23 PM.
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      err, if you look up the other H-width threads in here you'll note the common factor is that the slugs do jack all. You'll get 1cm adjustment absolute maximum. when they break or fall out people stop bothering with them. The resistor might have been someone's way of getting an actual adjustment, IDK

      Apologies for tone. I have a slug you're welcome to, a nice member on here posted it to me for nothing. However, you'd be the third person i've mailed it to - ppl keep mailing it back when they find out it does very, very little

      Also, ferrite being cracked shouldn't matter? If you have the three pieces and they form the complete slug, it'll do the same as an intact slug (or so close it won't matter). At least, so far as i can work out. You could also glue them carefully.
      Last edited by buttersoft; 2 Weeks Ago at 03:18 PM.

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      Quote Originally Posted by buttersoft View Post
      err, if you look up the other H-width threads in here you'll note the common factor is that the slugs do jack all. You'll get 1cm adjustment absolute maximum. when they break or fall out people stop bothering with them. The resistor might have been someone's way of getting an actual adjustment, IDK

      Apologies for tone. I have a slug you're welcome to, a nice member on here posted it to me for nothing. However, you'd be the third person i've mailed it to - ppl keep mailing it back when they find out it does very, very little

      Also, ferrite being cracked shouldn't matter? If you have the three pieces and they form the complete slug, it'll do the same as an intact slug (or so close it won't matter). At least, so far as i can work out. You could also glue them carefully.
      Can't glue it, it fell to pieces as I tapped it out bit by bit. Went through some old tv's here all too small. Happy to try yours but it sounds like it's taken a liking to you as it keeps coming back..
      I'll PM you.
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      Buttersoft ain't kidding when he says the ferrite slug width coils, in a great many cases, do jack.

      These brand new monitor chassis I got from China, they have a ferrite slug width coil. Wanna know how much width adjustment I get out of it? Nada, nuthin', zilch. Why do they even bother putting the part on?

      For large width adjustment, you might be better off looking to change/add to the brownie capacitor that you can usually find near the horz yoke lead connector. Many chassis already have an alternative yoke connector so that you can change horz width like this easily.

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      I did a bit more work on it this morning, did some solder reflow & clean-up got the brightness back & fixed the RED a crack on the neck board red driver transistor pad. So really the only issue is I have the left side of the Horizontal picture ending about 25mm from the CRT edge. It's funny as if I play around with the pots I just get Horizontal fold over in the same part. It's like the image ends here & nothing I do reclaims the space. It's got to be a dry cap but which one. A schematic about now would help a lot but I doubt any are about for a Matsushita Japan TM-25Y Chassis.

      Also the Monitor is running without the slug & resistor No difference noticed at all. The Herringbone pattern is the camera, the picture is crystal clear & stable.
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      It's like the picture is too far to the right. Is the game a jamma board or through a video converter?

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      Quote Originally Posted by Limorange View Post
      It's like the picture is too far to the right. Is the game a jamma board or through a video converter?
      It's a 311 in 1 but when plugged into my other cab it's ok. Also with the game turned off and only the raster on it still does the same thing.
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      I reversed the yoke wires to turn the image 180 degrees to see if the black edge swapped sides, It didn't, the black edge stayed exactly in the same place.
      I thought it might correct the issue. one thing I have noticed though the black edge is a bit thinner now as the Caps are starting to improve If I leave it on for a few hours.
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      Classic symptoms of bad caps. If you had a ESR meter (Bob Parker/Dick Smith design) then the bad caps would be easy to find as you could test them in circuit, without removing them from the PCB.

      If you're lucky, you might identify them by visual analysis (though I'm not sure that a leaking/burst cap necessarily counts as "lucky").

      EDIT: Bob Parker design ESR meters seem to be hard to find now, but I have some of the Dick Smith ESR meters (in kit form!) in my shed, still in their plastic wrapping. Last decade I bought a bunch of the ESR meters & the Dick Smith LOPT (flyback) testers way back from before the business went broke. These may be the last ones available anywhere now.

      I'll probably put most of them on the market when I get around to it. For now, if you want one (or both types of meters), PM me.

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