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    Thread: CRT tv to arcade

    1. #31
      buttersoft's Avatar
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      yeah i'm not sure tube or chassis quality would be worth it. The Makvision stuff was meant to be pretty awful, and these would no doubt be worse.

    2. #32
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      I was intrigued by the 'new' CRTs I spotted on Alibaba. I enquired with several distributors who all informed me of the same thing, used tube that they salvage from discarded TVs paired with a generic chassis.

      I don't know of any existing factories still tooled up for vacuum tube production.
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    3. #33
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      I turned my old monitor out of the 20" Hankin into a Jamma test bed a decade ago, I'm now considering sending the chassis to Joey for re capping & adjustment. I've still got the original 12 pin CRT for it. With supply drying up I think it's an asset worth keeping.

      I've sent @Jomac an email, think it's worth doing.
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      Collected it, Post that you have it & hand it over to the first person that calls for it.


    4. #34
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      Quote Originally Posted by Frank_fjs View Post
      I was intrigued by the 'new' CRTs I spotted on Alibaba. I enquired with several distributors who all informed me of the same thing, used tube that they salvage from discarded TVs paired with a generic chassis.

      I don't know of any existing factories still tooled up for vacuum tube production.
      I've noticed growth in DIY'ers pairing NOS CRTs with new TV chassis based on a basic Chinese design (similar to the ones I bought), and this seems particularly popular in developing countries where the option to get a cheap TV like that is attractive. I'm guessing the ads you've seen relate to that kind of market.

      I wouldn't buy actual CRT tubes from Alibaba, esp 2nd hand. Aside from quality control, freight would be a killer, except maybe in a commercial quantity for a container-load or more of new product, and at that point I'd be dealing directly with the company instead.

      Be aware that Alibaba sellers will often put a whole bunch of keywords into their ads, which may or may not reflect exactly what they are selling. It is designed to attract your attention (and search hits), and does not always reflect unscrupulousness (many trustworthy ebay sellers do the same). You have to do your homework and communicate with the ones that seem to be better.

      The TVs I bought locally (in Thailand) had all new components and CRTs. Under warranty too! Guess I void that when I open the back up anyway Local support, although they never replied to my email asking for service manual. Manufacturing date 4/3/17. I was able to inspect the tubes quality before buying by watching Thai soap opera for a while.

      Distar box.JPGDistar CRT.JPG

      I've got one of the CRTs hooked up to one of the arcade monitors now. I'm not disappointed with the quality, looks pretty darn good, though quality not as good as a nice-brand RGB input TV or a SI chassis (I also attached an SI chassis as well to compare with same tube - SI was notably better with light greys, but the colours are good with Chinese cheapie).

      DistarChina.JPGDistar sword.JPGDistar action.jpgDistar cleric.jpg
      My "ghetto" testbed setup.

      I had issues with the image "blooming" and related image distortions from light/dark changes when RGB input via video amp. I don't get blooming with RGB input direct (no amp), but the image is too dark. It may indicate poor HVR (high voltage regulation). It may also indicate that the chassis expects a larger CRT (21" is on small side) and/or that the Ultimarc amp is just boosting the signal too much.

      It's almost impossible to capture the blooming in a video as the CCD light sensors in the camera saturate (bloom out) as well.

      I attached 470uF capacitors onto the RGB inputs and that has help moderate the blooming a lot, seems to make the colours richer. I tried resistors inline and as termination (esp 75 ohms) but it didn't really seem to help.

      VGA-AMP-CAP.JPG
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    5. #35
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      Just popped the back of mine....I have no idea whats taking placeIMG_1623.jpgIMG_1624.jpgIMG_1625.jpg

    6. #36
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      After looking at the schematics, I think your Sanyo TV would be difficult to mod, no RGB inputs on the jungle IC afai can see, and the OSD is build into the jungle so no way to tap into its inputs.

      After you safely discharge the anode, remove the yoke connector (large, 4 pins in 2 pairs, with one pair a little larger, other end connects to yoke) from the PCB and measure the low-ohms resistance across each pair (put your multimeter probes into the female connector ends). Vertical is the pair with lower ohms. I find doing it this way easy as you can easily get a good test signal for the DMM.

      You can also measure yoke impedance directly from the pins on the yoke, without removing the connector. Or even by just inserting your DMM probes into the back of the connector's pins.

      Your tube looks like a 10-pin in the manual diagrams, but the socket part for the PCB looks like an 8-pin socket. Maybe it is both, CRTs don't always use all the pins. You may as well gently remove the neck board and count them.

      Note that flat screens often have convergence issues that might not be obvious until you do RGB gaming stuff with them.

    7. #37
      MarkOZLAD is offline
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      The Sanyo doesn't look like an RGB mod candidate to me....however, it does have component YCbCr inputs. How about a JROK RGB to Component Video converter?

      http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html

      As we get more desperate for tubes I think component is a viable option.

    8. #38
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      Quote Originally Posted by MarkOZLAD View Post
      The Sanyo doesn't look like an RGB mod candidate to me....however, it does have component YCbCr inputs. How about a JROK RGB to Component Video converter?

      http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html

      As we get more desperate for tubes I think component is a viable option.
      @MarkOZLAD, I suggest that the OP waits just a little. I'm about to post up details of my PC RGB(s) to component conversion mod & TV input hack.

      I won't go on about it too much right now as I'd like to discuss it on the new thread. But let me say that I have been following your inputs re: TV modding on the shmups forum (as a lurker) and was meaning to ask you stuff about your component input TV hack (though I think I've mostly answered my own questions since).

      The results I'm getting are so impressive that I might not bother using the arcade monitor chassis I bought for the TV's tube. I used to routinely dismiss component video as blah vs RGB, but after this I'm thinking that anybody who can use a soldering iron can get themselves an (almost) RGB quality monitor.

      On JROK: seems like a good product, but it costs too much ($US80). My mod cost less than $5 (OzBucks) in materials, though probably took up more than $5000 worth of my time (first researching, sourcing materials, then assembling & fiddling) to get it right.

    9. #39
      MarkOZLAD is offline
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      Keen to see details of your RGBS to component converter, quite a few of us have looked into it over the last couple of years. I'll save any questions until you post your thread.

      I love RGB modding but I'm a pragmatist. Component YCbCr is a great option and there are so many late model chassis that take it, why make life hard to get a few percent improvement? Does it really make your enjoyment of the game that much better?

      The TV I added component and S-Video to is a TEAC CTF-5151. It was composite only from the factory but I found it's TMPA88xx jungle and chassis were able to handle S-Video and Component. I studied the service manual and found that there was a setting to enable YUV in the service menu, once I confirmed that worked I studied the schematic and the chassis to work out what parts were missing and added them in. Really not difficult but was a nice change from RGB modding and made a pretty useless set something worthwhile. It helped that a friend had donated a not working set that had a very similar chassis that I could rob parts from.

    10. #40
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      @MarkOZLAD, I think that your TV's jungle is almost identical to mine. I think I may even have used a manual for yours, as I couldn't find one for mine and in any case, mostly all in Chinese.

      I've put up a new thread and first post, but so far it is all about the TV hack side of it. The next post I'll get into the RGB2YUV mod itself

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