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26" LAi SF2ce Controls colours


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Simple Question :laugh: About to embark on a simple and clean re-furb of Big Red here, and am wondering what the original Colour configuration was for the buttons and joysticks?

I do quite like the current colour combination and almost assumed it was 'stock' but a quick Googlin' revealed a few other different combos.

I'm aware that a lot of people/operators went nuts and did whatever back in the day, but was there a definitive 'from the factory' set combo??

 

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Left side had red MCA buttons and joystick. right side had blue MCA buttons and joystick.

 

Left start button was red, right start was blue.

 

This is how they came from LAI complete or in kit form which is how that piece would have come because that machine was originally a Turtles or Simpsons cab being 4 player and Mars mech.

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Left side had red MCA buttons and joystick. right side had blue MCA buttons and joystick.

 

Left start button was red, right start was blue.

 

This is how they came from LAI complete or in kit form which is how that piece would have come because that machine was originally a Turtles or Simpsons cab being 4 player and Mars mech.

 

Funny you say that @Autosteve because the serial numbers and all the original paperwork that’s in the bottom of this one - including sales docket - says it a ‘TMNT BLUE’.

Where the Blue bit came from beats me as there’s only one tiny piece of blue laminex on the whole machine and that’s inside it under the CPanel box.

The rest is quite clearly red.

And I would have faithfully restored it to its original TMNT glory if

(A) it all made sense and if

(B) I wasn’t deep in the middle of a green TMNT resto.

 

Ps. What’s a Mars Mech?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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Don't write off the thought that cab may have been "re-laminated". And guess what, the only laminate we ever did on damaged cabs was red.;)

 

Mars mech....coin mech type fitted between the start buttons factory. Mars mechs are compatible size and fit wise with a few other mech brands but they all had a habit of breaking the mounts that hold them in the cabinet.

 

Most of these type cabs that broke the mechs we converted to other mech types usually S5 and later S6, MCA or similar types and mounted them in the front doors because that original location the Mars mech was fitted is an arse to un-jam.

 

Imagine trying to get the mech out of that machine with about $20-30 jammed inside it holding the reject door of the mech open.

 

One, you can't see it and have to do it all by feel and two, it requires you to hold a tab and lift the mech at the same time to remove the mech from it's holder and the cable to the mech is only about 200mm long...Just a really stupid idea.

 

Better mounted on the front door where you can open the door and see exactly what you are doing.

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Mars mech MS111 where use on the door on later Lai games.

Mars Electronics MS111 series - Top Load

https://www.highway.net.au/arcade-parts/coin-mechanisms/ms111-coin-mech-top/11436-1.html

Thay move them there as thay used sentinel electronic mech on TMNT. then later work out the tube degusse was stuffing up the mech.

Its why you have a big ass plate of tin at the base of the tube

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While we are here talking about this SF2 CE ... can I ask you all ( @Autosteve , @namastepat , @mrjamma , @madal , @dragonlee etc. etc. ....) Who does Arcade board repairs in Victoria (or even interstate) ?

Being from a solidly Pinball background I'm in 100% new territory here ... Who is the guru of your domain? Who is your @Skybeaux?

 

This SF2 turns on and Blue Screens. I've been told to get new boards for it but i'd love to get the old ones seen to first if there's a chance of saving them.

At first glance they literally appear brand new ! They are fresh, clean and sparkling without even dust on them !! (maybe i'm too used to looking at early 80's Bally CPU's and Solenoid driver boards :) )

 

- - - Updated - - -

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@Womble will possibly fix the board, he charges a flat rate of $175 for a JAMMA board. If the board is a genuine CPS1 SF2 CE, it's worth spending the money to get repaired. If it's a bootleg, don't bother. I think from your original thread that it was original, but I can't 100% remember.

 

Womble recently fixed a TMNT board for me and did excellent work, so I can recommend his repair skills.

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Make sure you are measuring 4.95-5.20 volts at the board's end connector..(between any Red and black wires)

 

No more voltage or less......ever.

 

5 volt adjuster is on the power supply.

 

Also make sure all socketed chips on the board are fully in place.

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@Womble will possibly fix the board, he charges a flat rate of $175 for a JAMMA board. If the board is a genuine CPS1 SF2 CE, it's worth spending the money to get repaired. If it's a bootleg, don't bother. I think from your original thread that it was original, but I can't 100% remember.

 

Womble recently fixed a TMNT board for me and did excellent work, so I can recommend his repair skills.

 

I’m 98% sure it’s genuine ...? Can you please confirm ?

 

IMG_6455.thumb.JPG.274ac02d9241913a54b7de9e4dc8e4d9.JPGIMG_6456.thumb.JPG.07ba9c2523db3a9a8e6255e854c340bc.JPG

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

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I’m 98% sure it’s genuine ...? Can you please confirm ?

 

[ATTACH]137005[/ATTACH][ATTACH]137006[/ATTACH]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Aussie Arcade

 

Yep, that's genuine CPS1. It's worth repairing, as they are valued between $200-$300 when working. Not sure if Womble works on CPS1, but it would be worth shooting him a message.

 

Before you do, do the basic troubleshootiung suggested by Autosteve, especially +5 voltages. Very easy to test those using a meter at the PSU with the board unplugged and then if they read fine with the board unplugged, hook up the board and measure the 5V using the 5V and one of the grounds at the JAMMA harness. Voltage often drops slightly between the PSU and the edge connector. I usually adjust mine to sit just above 5V at the edge connector, around 5.1 or so.

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Hey Scott. As suggested with CPS1, definitely check voltage at the board with the machine powered on to ensure 5 - 5.1v

My most recent CPS1 issue was caused by voltage being too low.

 

In the past with my own CPS1 board woes, ive usually been fortunate enough to have a 2nd working board to swap and change A boards or C boards for process of elimination etc.

Ive had audio issues on A board, and graphics freaking out with a dodgy C board.

 

But even so - once worked out which board has the issue, you then need to look at sending it to a repairer to fix whatever you find to be faulty anyway - that, or once you find out which board is playing up, youre left with the task of trying to find a working A , B or C board for sale..

 

Womble is sounding the goods if he works on these boards. Im sending something to Womble in a couple of weeks for myself (Konami though, just waiting on some stuff to arrive).

 

I've also received some good advice in the past from @Aussiekanga with CPS1 troubleshooting, though no idea if he does repairs?

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Hey Scott. As suggested with CPS1, definitely check voltage at the board with the machine powered on to ensure 5 - 5.1v

My most recent CPS1 issue was caused by voltage being too low.

 

In the past with my own CPS1 board woes, ive usually been fortunate enough to have a 2nd working board to swap and change A boards or C boards for process of elimination etc.

Ive had audio issues on A board, and graphics freaking out with a dodgy C board.

 

But even so - once worked out which board has the issue, you then need to look at sending it to a repairer to fix whatever you find to be faulty anyway - that, or once you find out which board is playing up, youre left with the task of trying to find a working A , B or C board for sale..

 

Womble is sounding the goods if he works on these boards. Im sending something to Womble in a couple of weeks for myself (Konami though, just waiting on some stuff to arrive).

 

I've also received some good advice in the past from @Aussiekanga with CPS1 troubleshooting, though no idea if he does repairs?

Dont stress it’s fixed now boys.

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C'mon! give 'em more than that @dragonlee !!!

 

We just had a brief chat and he said "Pull the boards apart and re-seat them..."

 

Remembering my last FOUR WPC Pinball Reset issues being resolved with exactly the same process, I yoinked them apart, then put them back together...

Boom! Game runs!

Cut out though (reset) after about 15 seconds, then after a manual shut down and re-boot it's going again but cut out after about 20 seconds.

Took boards back out, re-seated them all AGAIN thinking "oooooo yeah, i'm rubbing those contacts clean they're gonna thank me , Hahaha!" ....

Fired her up and I managed to get to player select mode and almost start. Boomph.. gone again.

Took them out again and this time re-seated them 5 times ... no bull... back in...

....and she's been running without a hitch for the last 40 mins including some epic battles ... GO M.BISON!!!!!!!! (my weirdo personal choice;)

 

AWESOME Morning!!!! Thank you all.

Now all I have to do is work out why the de-gaussing button has been disconnected and i'll be the happiest friggin' person in Dandenong today ! (doesn't take much down here :lol )

 

 

Dont stress it’s fixed now boys.
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Easy fix for the de-gause, use a proper manual plug in mains powered de-gausing wand.;)

 

Nothing is as good as the proper tool for the job.

 

As for your problem.....

 

There should be a twin cable with one inline connector running from the degauser around the tube down to the power supply mains connector box. Make sure this inline connector is plugged in correctly.

 

Most operators disconnected this inline plug because it was being hit after a proper de-gausing and buggered up a perfectly de-gaused tube.

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