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Anyone Do Bumper Light LED Boards?


Autosteve

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I'm after a pair of these things but I want the bumper body itself to be lit off the GI supply so therefore lit all the time and the top bumper cap lighting to be powered off the existing bumper switched light supply.

 

The machine they are going into is very dark around the bumpers so therefore that is why I want the bumper bodies themselves lit all the time but the bumper caps themselves lit differently depending on their scoring.

 

They are....

100 points when not lit

1000 points when lit

3000 points when flashing

 

Do these exist or should I just make my own?

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have a look at these, I used them on Battle Pinny. You can hack the wiring on them to give different light effect if you want

 

https://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1888.htm

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Check out the pinball modders web sites and pinball led guys as well.

 

Example..

https://www.cometpinball.com/category-s/1888.htm

 

AW Crap, sorry @toads I should have looked at your post more closely :redface Keep up the good work :D

Edited by thegrunta666
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This is a big ask Steve, will the game programing even have the code to do this?

 

The parts are for a Bally Black Pyramid and it's existing scoring is unlit bumpers score 100, lit score 1000 and flashing score 1000.

 

image-31.jpg

 

I plan on just putting two more wires into the bumper from the playfield GI supply so the lower half of the bumper is lit from the GI and the upper bumper cap just uses the existing bumper lighting circuit.

 

Idea is to discretely add more lighting to a dark part of the playfield. I'm pretty sure HomePin uses these parts I'm after in his ThunderBirds Pinball but not real sure they will suit this Bally SS bumper body as his are Williams replicas I'm pretty sure and I'm not 100% sure these Bally SS style bumper bodies are the same exact sizing as Williams.

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Should work, can't see any real issues here, just don't over load the trannies doing the work!

 

Shouldn't have any issues there. Black pyramid was made as a budget machine and that meant not only no speech, less coils etc, it also meant less light bulbs and sockets in comparison to something like Flash Gorden that uses the same transformer and power supply.

It is a very dark machine GI wise and now the machine uses LED GI lighting, I imagine the load has dropped even more which reminds me, I must drop the GI fuse value as it still uses the original fuse rated for the original incandescence bulbs which pretty much defeats the purpose of having a fuse doesn't it.

For those that may be interested in how you would go about determining what the new fuse value should be, how I will do that is put an ammeter in line with the fuse, ( in series), turn machine on and check the amps being pulled by the GI. Add 10% and that should be a good new fuse rating now it runs LED GIs.;)

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So your not going to use a nail or tin foil this time..:lol

 

Well if I leave the original 10amp fuse for the GI and now have LEDs for the GI, I may as well put in a nail aye.

 

LEDs would probably need under 4amps, I haven't checked yet, so leaving in the original 10amp fuse would be twice what is safe, While the original fuse will still protect the wiring, having such an over current fuse would mean if an LED bulb or socket itself was to short, it would have all that extra power for itself before the fuse would start to protect.

 

Actually I just checked and the original fuses are 15amps for the Backbox GI and 15amps for the playfield GI on this machine.

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Problem is LEDs power demands vary by manufacturer of the LED so the only real safe way is to check either by your "sacrificial fuse method" or a ammeter.

 

I'm thinking 4amps would probably be in the ball park but when you consider the original fuse is 15amps, and if changing to LEDs drops that actual demand down to under 4amps, that means a fault needs to pull 11amps on it's own before the fuse will blow.

 

That is a lot of power for a fault to have before the fuse protects isn't it?. 11amps could near start a fire on it's own if it is all going to one LED socket.

 

I wonder how often this is overlooked by those that change to LED lighting?.

 

I'm thinking 90% of the time.:blink:

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