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Sega Rally pc conversion


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You need to setup CRT_EMU Driver to boot into 24khz using VMMaker, which is the res selector. Run VMMaker, select 1024x768i and then reboot with the J-PAC set for 24khz. If you don't have 1024x768i selectable in VMMaker, you will need to enable more modelines, and I can't for the life of me remember how to do that. It's been years.
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You need to setup CRT_EMU Driver to boot into 24khz using VMMaker, which is the res selector. Run VMMaker, select 1024x768i and then reboot with the J-PAC set for 24khz. If you don't have 1024x768i selectable in VMMaker, you will need to enable more modelines, and I can't for the life of me remember how to do that. It's been years.

 

Thanks heaps!

 

I added the mode lines for 1024x768i in VMMaker, selected the res to 1024x768i in arcade osd, removed the jumpers on the jpac and just made it 25 kHz only, selected the arcade 25 kHz option in VMMaker and then enabled EDID, plugged her into the monitor...

 

And voila!

 

9d5564c1dcc217336e2723b948810ff4.jpg

 

98488700d889ab63943faf224f4963ef.jpg

 

d2034c929065cb2044fbb1ccb481ea35.jpg

 

She's now running in 25 kHz native res!

 

It looks so much sharper now!

 

Note: I didn't use any custom resolution in the m2 emulator, when I selected change to full screen, it just ran like normal and didn't crash. Maybe the newer version of nebula already has the resolution built in?

 

On another note, I tried getting supermodel to work with Daytona 2, but just got the following screen with sound.

 

b25297dde13432d719f33361e0c8e86b.jpg

 

Anybody have any tips/tricks for model 3 emulation?

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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I would set the custom res in M2 ini, otherwise you don't actually know it's running at 24khz, it could be defaulting to 640x480i or something along those lines. It's easy as to go into the ini and set the res, it's as simple as just finding the instruction in the ini and then writing in 496x384. Give it a crack and see what happens. If you break something, just set it back to default.
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Noted.. I'll give that a crack at some point today.

 

I tell you what, 1024x768i is damn hard to read on a 26" crt! :)

 

Out of curiosity, do you have supermodel 3 setup on your 24 kHz setup?

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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OK, I've harcoded the 496x384 resolution in the EMULATOR.ini file of the M2 emulator.

 

ForceSync=0
FullScreenWidth=496
FullScreenHeight=384

 

I couldn't find a way to do it on the M3 Emulator and I found this on the read me section

 

=====================
 5. Video Settings
=====================

Supermodel may be run in either windowed (default) or full screen mode.  It 
automatically adjusts the display area to retain the aspect ratio of the Model
3's native (and Supermodel's default) resolution, 496x384.  Currently, this
cannot be overriden.  Changing video modes at run-time is not yet supported.

By default, Supermodel limits the frame rate to 60 frames per second.  This has
no impact on performance except when the frame rate exceeds 60 FPS on fast 
systems.  Frame rate limiting can be disabled with the '-no-throttle' option.
Some video drivers may continue to lock to the refresh rate.

To change the resolution, use the '-res' command line option.  For full screen
mode, use '-fullscreen'.  For example, to set a full screen 1920x1080 mode,
try:

   supermodel game.zip -res=496,384 -fullscreen

 

When I run the command in window mode, it works fine

 

supermodel.exe daytona2.zip -res=496,384

 

The moment I try running in full screen, it goes out of sync

 

supermodel.exe daytona2.zip -res=496,384 -fullscreen

 

Will try and sort software issues out whilst I wait for other parts :)

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So we've finally made progress with 25khz full screen and model 3 emulation!

 

How I fixed is as follows:

 

- in VMMaker, select arcade 25 option

- load the user modes from the user modes ini

- generate modes, install modes

- in arcade osd, select 1024x768i

- enable EDID in VMMaker

- unplug from pc monitor and switch to arcade monitor via the jpac with the 25khz jumper set (only the 25khz)

- load up arcade osd again and the new resolution of 496x384 now appears and after selecting and making it to the desktop mode, I can play supermodel 3 in full screen!

 

bbc6926339b863740a4df58e175c9f0d.jpg

 

ee5dd666b26f032b745671c186c20969.jpg

 

c12e7cda5842b7715a4cfd05fccfbe4f.jpg

 

ca1472ad9d729ef1d888b6b694cf37ab.jpg

 

I need to tweak the rgb pots around.. I can't get it perfect yet..

 

In other news, I got ryan555's 3 wire to 4 wire so I'm hoping to wire up the shifter very soon!

 

 

 

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We have gears!!

 

 

Installed Ryan555's 3 wire to 4 wire pcb and wired it to the jpac's 2P down (F), 2P left (D), 2P B1 (A) and 2P B2 (S) so there's no need to change the emulator setting for the shift changes - unfortunately, I screwed up one of the 24v tracks, so I'll have to order another one off Ryan555 so I know I'll have everything I need in the event a second project cab appears.

 

Here's the all pcbs in place which sits directly behind wheel.

 

c404285ae4f47e019ef9f57f7d479107.jpg

 

This officially wraps up the 5 major items I wanted to tackle on this install (power, monitor, wheel, pedals and gear shift).

 

Now it's time to turn all this...

 

04426351eac1700b9da2095580f88984.jpg

 

Into something more respectable, clean and safe. I'll wire it all up inside and ground up all the metal bits.

 

I'll also need to fix up the vr buttons so they're wired up properly.

 

Over time, I'll look at replacing the sides and get a topper, but those are all aesthetics and will not affect the functionality so it's not a major priority.

 

The final piece of this puzzle and the software. Configuring a front end and getting the FFB settings right so it feels very close to the way it should.

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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The dream as a 14 yo kid is now a reality!

 

Here it is, the project cab is fully functional with the shifter operational!

 

Time to get better times!

 

 

I started doing a clean up and sorting things together and then I realise why I take so long with that process, it's been cause I crimp and connect everything! If I wired directly, it won't take so bloody long!

 

Here's the jamma harness with its 3 main connections... The rgb sync, the vr buttons and the gear shifter. Everything else is not required for this cabinet.

 

0ada26834e14223d876686b6f011f106.jpg

 

The other connection of the vr buttons is for the pac drive. Again, here's a class example of having the ability to wire directly to the terminal strip, but I made a connector!

 

17556a1831642d3d6642936e9eed68c0.jpg

 

With this project pretty much coming to a close, I'm only left with figuring out a speaker system and the aesthetics (which I'm not too overly fussed about just yet), there's a few people that I need to give massive shout outs to:

 

- Greg for selling me the project cab for a whole 150 and even delivering it from Goulburn to Sydney! Massive, massive props there!

- aganyte (for creating the L2M2 and making it publicly available! Without this item, none of this would have been possible)

- Andyj965/homepin for translating Aganyte’s schematic and making them readily available for people in AU! Also providing a wealth of advice and tips during the whole build

- raysco for selling me his L2M2 kits!

- Jomac for everything crt related - probably saved me putting this cab on fire since I was very close to using an Allen key to fix the horizontal size of the crt - apparently that's one of the biggest no no's EVER! :)

- telino for his RamjetVR thread - that made my life so much easier

- ozmodsticks for supplying me my JPAC, pac drive and jamma harness

- rs components for their abundance array of connectors and crimps :) :)

- elvis/namastepat/tiff_lee for their general advice on crt, software and electrical

- vandal from byoac for tipping me off about the m2 emulator constantly crashing and how to fix it.

- bandicoot from byoac for tipping me off about the CW and CCW wires to fix my centering issues on the ffb wheel

 

And finally, the biggest shout out has to go to ryan555! Mate you helped me out in more ways than I can count, I know I got quite annoying with the stupid questions on things that were right in front of me. But you were heaps patient and responsive. Your 3 wire to 4 wire circuit also made connecting the gear shifter a simple task. I honestly dont think I would've made progress as much as I did if it wasn't for your help. Thank you very much!

 

To others that I may have missed, I apologise in advance, and to those that have stuck around in the thread, thank you guys as well!

 

The next major challenge is going to be software and what actual games to run as I've only really cared about daytona :)

 

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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**** yeah man!!!!! Looks amazing!!!!

 

I can feel the satisfaction just watching you play haha - so jealous!

 

hahah you wouldn't believe how satisfying it is!! I'm seriously smiling from ear to ear like a little kid... too bad it's not a double though! :)

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  • 2 weeks later...
Hey J, been out of action for awhile but manged to catch up on your build well done mate and congrats looks awesome and so much praise on your efforts to get this up and about, I hope sooner or later my mission will begin!, well done again mate.
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  • 2 months later...

Thought I'd give an update on this thread for those subbed and not across the issue I had with my chassis..

 

I posted on this thread about 3 weeks ago stating I had issues with my chassis https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthread.php/97426-Dead-chassis.

 

I had a spare MS9 29" chassis and Toshiba tube which would have been perfect for the cab, but I unfortunately didn't have the skills to fabricate the correct mounts as the LAI cab did not have the correct spacers for a 29" monitor (since it was made with a 26" in mind). The monitor definitely fits, I just couldn't get the mounts in the correct spots - the top brace would've need some modification too which I didn't want to really do.

 

So, I did what any other person in AU would do with a dead chassis - send it to Jomac! :)

 

We went from this:

 

3f2ae615bdf9406bcaeafd289631b290.jpg

 

Back to this last night!

 

c7a3fa12883ae15a291e15d14295f121.jpg

 

I think between my brother and I, we spent what would have been around 50 bux if we played this at the arcade... nothing like the comfort of your home and a couple of cold drinks on the side :D

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  • 5 months later...

Finally got my hands on a Sega pedal set. I have wired them into the Logitech PCB RJ11 input socket. Using the Logitech profiler calibration I can set the brake ok but the accelerator works but is inverted. I have tried setting invert in the Logitech profiler but its still the same in the calibration. I have swapped the wires around on the accelerator pot and it does work ok in the profiler (not the full range) and in model 2 emu.

It would be good to have the wiring original though, has anyone got the accelerator to work inverted?

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Ok I got it sorted with the original wiring and emu setup. It seems even though the Logitech profiler calibration reading is backwards for the accelerator it does not seem to matter for the model 2 emu. I have the brake inverted in the model 2 emu but not the accelerator. I don't have any invert set in the profiler for either brake or accelerator. I guess the only thing that may matter is if connecting a PS2 or PS3 console the accelerator may be backwards.

 

Now for another issue.

I have connected a second set of pedals from a Sega Rally twin and I can only get the accelerator to work, the brake does not. I can measure the pot ok with a multimeter and the measures and works fine. The pots are 5K pots where as the other pedals I tested with the same computer setup have 50K pots. That pedal set maybe from a Daytona? Has anyone got 5K pots to work ok with the logitech?

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No vid but for the pedals that work (50K pots) using the logitech profiler calibration and pressing the brake and accelerator few times. The meter for the brake does a full sweep from left to right and rests at the left when the brake is not used. The accelerator does a full sweep from the right to the left and rests at the right when not used.

For the other pedals (5K pots) I can only get the accelerator move the meter full sweep but the brake does not move the meter at all, nor does it register in model 2 emu.

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Ok I got it to work with 5K pots. It seems the calibration in the Logitech profiler is a bit hit and miss due to the 5K pots as the original pots in the pedals that sold with the Logitech wheel are 50K. I mucked around with going though the calibration a few times and it works just ok. I then went into the Model 2 emu and reset both the brake and accelerator and it seems fine now.
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  • 3 weeks later...

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