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    Thread: Sega Rally pc conversion

    1. #1
      mR_CaESaR is offline
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      Sega Rally pc conversion

      Purchased off an AA user on FB (thanks Greg!), not sure he's alias here...

      So here it is! The project cab! And boy is it going to be one hell of a project.

      As some of you know, I put a WTB post to get an L2M2 kit in preparation for this... I just didn't expect it to come so quick on both the project cab and the L2M2 kit. Nevertheless, it has happened so I now have this mammoth task to to.



      The end goal is for this to be a Sega model 2 emulation cab (I'll take model 3 or Naomi as well if it's possible, but the main objective is model two true FFB like the aecade). I will interface the original parts with a logitech Driving Force pcb using the L2M2 kit. I've never worked with a racer before so this is going to take a while.

      I haven't spent that much time with it today as I'm occupied doing othet things but the quick 30 or so minutes I spent on it, here's what I found:

      Chassis needs major work. I'm not sure if Joey can fix this. I'll email him and see if it's doable.



      The neck board is almost in two pieces!



      I'm not sure if the tube is functional...



      I always thought these were 29 inch? I wonder why this is a 26 inch. I have a spare 29 inch tube and MS9 and would've much preferred to use my spare than have to look for a new or replace the chassis and possibly tube.

      The sides are shot! Don't have any major issues with this as I have plans to replace it with Daytona sides (I'm going to assume they fit perfectly fine?



      The shifter, pedal, wheel are all intact, but I'm not sure if they are operational.



      And the game storage section.... A whole spaghetti of wires..

      This is going to be the most challenging build to date.



      Anyone know where you can buy these 12 core wires?



      To do/buy:

      - I would say clean, but I want to test functionality before anything, so the first thing is to get the chassis sorted
      - wire up mains to the step down and connect the monitor
      - quickly wire up a jamma harness and switching psu to test the monitor
      - purchase a logitech Driving Force so the L2M2 can be connected up
      - purchase a JPAC to connect the PC to the CRT monitor (will need to use CRT Emudriver)
      - wire up the ffb, L2M2 and logitech Driving Force pcb
      - purchase a daytona vr button panel
      - start configuring the pc to ensure it all works
      - once all that is done and confirmed, then I'll spend time on the aesthetics
      - clean thoroughly
      - purchase daytona sides
      - purchase daytona seat back
      - start playing!

      I seriously thought my guncon/Namco gun project was daunting... That had nothing on how overwhelmed I currently am taking on this project!

      If anyone has input or has done something similar, please feel free to add your comments or insight. I'm going to need as much help as I possibly can.

      Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
      Last edited by mR_CaESaR; 15th September 2018 at 06:22 PM.

    2. #2
      Autosteve is offline
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      I would presume most parts to be faulty. I know we used to combine all our bad parts in one cabinet and send it off to auction.

      Did you get the other cabinet or did you just buy the one side?.

    3. #3
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      I only purchased the non working cab.

      I didn't care for the game as I was always going to rip it out.

      I would assume all other parts are faulty too, but I honestly don't know. The steering module doesn't look too bad albeit a few wires cut.








      And of course... It wouldn't be the same if there wasn't chewing gum filth at the back of the wheel



      Is it safe to assume all Sega cabs are interchangeable sides?






      I wouldn't even know where to start in fixing this panel, so I will eventually purchase some daytona ones - on the hope that they will fit

      Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

    4. #4
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      Daytona ones will fit for sure , I have a setup running model2 in a twin world rally cab , no force feedback dam , but using original steering wheels pedals , witch I would love to upgrade to something like hyperdrive a hyperspin setup just for driving games

    5. #5
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      Looks like you have a nice project there. I would either try and splice the damage cables or ask if anyone has a set from a wrecked cab. I'm currently helping someone with a Sega Rally twin and an L2M2 conversion so hopefully I can share some info as needed.

    6. #6
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      Quote Originally Posted by Ryan555 View Post
      Looks like you have a nice project there. I would either try and splice the damage cables or ask if anyone has a set from a wrecked cab. I'm currently helping someone with a Sega Rally twin and an L2M2 conversion so hopefully I can share some info as needed.
      I'll figure out what they are and make new connectors.

      I know those are TE Amp Up connectors (same as the astro city) and I might already have some, and the other connectors that I'll need to figure out.

      Any help/info with the L2M2 conversion will be greatly appreciated as I'm well beyond my depth atm..

      Just realised I'll need a JPAC too to connect the pc to the monitor.

      Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

    7. #7
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      I know there are at least 2 different molds that Sega used on that style of cab and they are not interchangeable but the backs of them are quite different

    8. #8
      mR_CaESaR is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by loki4101 View Post
      I know there are at least 2 different molds that Sega used on that style of cab and they are not interchangeable but the backs of them are quite different
      Would be good if someone in Sydney had another "model 2" cab that's a proper 29" and could "lend" me one of their sides.. I may just have to risk it.. the photos looks like it'd fit.

    9. #9
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      I put a 29 in my first build and it makes no difference to the sides but i had to mod the screen surround
      its easy to see the differences in the sides from the back of them

      https://www.aussiearcade.com/showthr...p/45453-M2-cab

    10. #10
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      Spent some time on the cab and just gave it a good clean...

      I'd imagine this is about 20+ years of filth



      Check out the pedals!



      Also managed to get a logitech Driving Force wheel and tested it on the m2 emulator and she appears to run just fine.



      Time to rip apart this pour soul



      Voila!



      Next steps:

      - test the monitor - refurbished chassis is on the way (decided to bin the current one based on Joey's recommendation)
      - solder up the L2M2 interface
      - get some power into the unit
      - work out exactly what I need to do to connect the L2M2 to the current wheel setup and FFB module
      - work out what to do with the original pedals - does this connect to the original logitech board?

      Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

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