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New CRT Chassis connection woes


DoubleDragon

Question

Hey Guys,

 

I bought one of those cheap Wei-Ya Chassis off eBay, but I didn't realise at the time that the connector on the new board for the video input doesn't match the connector type that went into the old board.

 

This is the old connector coming from my Jamma... it has 6 pins/cables connected:

IMG_2615.jpg

 

And this is the connector type on the new Wei-Ya chassis it has 5 pins(I plugged in the cable that came with it):

IMG_2614.JPG

 

Now I did try to connect each wire from the old connector to the new connector loom... but that leaves 1 grey wire from my jamma not connected to anything... and when I powered up the screen it appeared to be flickering.

 

Do I need to do something with that other wire... or have I done goofed buying this Chassis which doesn't have the right connector on it.

 

Please Help! Thanks

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The grey and yellow wires on your old connector would have been for separate horizontal and vertical sync, but as it's coming from a jamma setup only one wire would have been used. Follow both back to your jamma edge connector to determine which one. That will be the wire you need to connect to the white wire on your new plug.

 

Regards,

 

Johns-Arcade.

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With my dk cab I hooked up both sync wires to the jamma sync wire :)

 

Yes, but you used a Nanao which can accept both horizontal and vertical sync, whereas his new chassis can't. You didn't need to use both wires, just comp sync would have worked.

 

Regards,

 

John-Arcade.

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Yes, but you used a Nanao which can accept both horizontal and vertical sync, whereas his new chassis can't. You didn't need to use both wires, just comp sync would have worked.

 

Regards,

 

John-Arcade.

 

Ah yes that is true :) just disregard what I said ;)

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John's on the money. I'd be very interested to see how your image looks when you get it sorted out. What chassis did you replace and what size is the tube? Those Wei-Ya 'universal' chassis are always hit and miss based on the tube.

 

The New Chassis is a Wei-Ya 429H

 

The Old Chassis was a Wei-Ya 833HR that looks like it was repaired by a monkey with a blowtorch(which is why I didn't bother trying to repair it as it now blows fuses)

 

The tube is a RCA with a tube type number of A66AEK21X03

 

I checked the schematics to see what should be coming out of the Jamma and it looks like the white wire is definately the sync wire and it is the one I had connected to the white wire on the new connector, so at this point I'm thinking the screen adjustment knobs may need tweaking?

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Okay,

 

I just remembered I saw some weird jumper cable/pins on the new board.

 

On the old Wei-Ya board both jumpers are set to "Narrow"

IMG_2628.jpg

 

On the new Wei-Ya board... one jumper is set to Narrow, the other to Wide

IMG_2622.JPG

 

Should I set both jumpers on the new board to Narrow? Just worried I might blow something up!

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Hey mate

 

not sure if it helps, but I found this picture for your chassis.

 

Looks like one of the jumpers is for either 'video color' or 'itt'..

 

Not sure what that means - someone on another forum mentioned

"I have no idea what that jumper is. I've never seen that before. Could be some sort of test mode?"

 

Based on where your plug is at present, it appears to be set to 'video colour'

 

If no one is certain on here, might be worth to ask the seller or even better, Joey/Jomac

 

Capture.JPG

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Hey mate

 

not sure if it helps, but I found this picture for your chassis.

 

Looks like one of the jumpers is for either 'video color' or 'itt'..

 

Not sure what that means - someone on another forum mentioned

"I have no idea what that jumper is. I've never seen that before. Could be some sort of test mode?"

 

Based on where your plug is at present, it appears to be set to 'video colour'

 

If no one is certain on here, might be worth to ask the seller or even better, Joey/Jomac

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]135510[/ATTACH]

 

Thanks... I did a bit more research online and found out the "Narrow" and "Wide" jumpers are for how much range you have with the knobs.

 

For example lets say you put the knob to full and you still can't get the colour right, you change that jumper from Narrow to Wide... and now the colour setting is much higher and you may even need to turn the dials back down again.

 

So on this board is has those jumpers for both the width and colour to increase them(I had to set both to Wide)

 

Anyways, I managed to get the screen to stop flickering, basically had to play around with the Horizontal Hold and a few others to get it to fit the screen right... butttttt.. now I have another problem.

 

My screens colours are patchy in places and from what I understand this means it needs to be "Degaussed" which is weird... because my screen has a degaussing wire wrapped around it and is plugged in. And I'm pretty sure when the other chassis board was working the screen had the same colour patching issue. When I turn the machine on I don't hear the "Buzzzzz-CLICK" noise I remember from the old days of CRT screens. Any ideas?

 

I checked the degauss wire that runs around the screen as well and it is showing 3.6 Ohms in resistance which from what I understand is fine.

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Degauss coils often do a fat lot of shit all. I've had some which I disconnected, as they made the screen discolouration worse.

 

Get a degauss wand and give it a good whack with the wand and it should be fine. If the degauss circuit is working, it will make a clear noise when the cabinet starts up when the degauss is engaged.

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My Astro cabinet's degauss button works amazingly! Just quality Japanese stuff I reckon.

 

However two other local wooden cabinets ive owned , degauss circuit has done close to nothing if anything.

 

Agree with above regarding a wand.

 

I ended up using a degauss wand on my most current project machine which had huge patches of orange on the screen.

 

I tried from the front of the tube, doing the whole 'circular' motion whilst moving from inward to outward whilst walking backward - didnt do jack..

 

I ended up talking with Joey and I went in from behind the tube instead and done the degaussing from their with a wand. I got up niceee and close to the tube too - just need to be careful not to bump the neck board of course.

 

The patch was on the left side and left-bottom corner. I 'flicked' the button on the wand as I struck from the centre of the rear-tube to the outter edge of the tube (in the direction of where the problem area was), like slicing a sword. Id move in closer to the impacted area and kept slicing the wand from the problem area to even beyond the outter edge of tube, whilst giving the button a flick whilst slicing.

 

Done this a few times and it got rid of everything quick smart! Couldnt believe the difference. When I say I had an orange patch, im talking the size of two bottles of beer

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If you're lucky, and bide your time, second hand Arlec ones come up. They usually sell for $60-$80 and are great wands.

 

Yeah they are pretty Ex-y brand new.

 

I got impatient and used the back of a speaker as a degausser... helped a little bit. Got the screen looking better, but in the end after all that effort I realised that this Wei-Ya Universal Chassis I bought sucks... yes yes I know.. should have bought something else. The problem is it isn't producing a screen bright enough. If I try to jack up the colours they start to smudge into each other... turn the colours down, then it is too dark. Brightness is at full setting but it looks way too dull.

 

The old board was a Wei-ya for a 33" whereas this is a 29" Wei-Ya board(screen is 29") which sort of shows how under powered it is. Thinking now of trying to fix the original board but it looks fried and as mentioned earlier keeps blowing fuses.

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Yeah they are pretty Ex-y brand new.

 

I got impatient and used the back of a speaker as a degausser... helped a little bit. Got the screen looking better, but in the end after all that effort I realised that this Wei-Ya Universal Chassis I bought sucks... yes yes I know.. should have bought something else. The problem is it isn't producing a screen bright enough. If I try to jack up the colours they start to smudge into each other... turn the colours down, then it is too dark. Brightness is at full setting but it looks way too dull.

 

The old board was a Wei-ya for a 33" whereas this is a 29" Wei-Ya board(screen is 29") which sort of shows how under powered it is. Thinking now of trying to fix the original board but it looks fried and as mentioned earlier keeps blowing fuses.

 

You said the wands on ebay are cheap and nasty, yet you can buy a professional wand for $130, but that's too expensive :017:

 

Anyway, seems to me you're over your head. Best thing to do is pack up your old chassis and send it to Jomac. You would have done better doing this originally.

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You said the wands on ebay are cheap and nasty, yet you can buy a professional wand for $130, but that's too expensive :017:

 

Anyway, seems to me you're over your head. Best thing to do is pack up your old chassis and send it to Jomac. You would have done better doing this originally.

 

It's not the $130 that bothers me it's the fact I'll probably only use it once and throw in the back of the cupboard never to be used again. LOL. If I saw one second hand I'd definitely buy that if it's under $100

 

Also I managed to fix the brightness issue by turning up the Screen knob on the flyback, so I am making progress. Colours still look terrible but I'm guessing this is the degauss issue. Thanks for your help guys, hopefully there is life in this old screen still.

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It's not the $130 that bothers me it's the fact I'll probably only use it once and throw in the back of the cupboard never to be used again. LOL. If I saw one second hand I'd definitely buy that if it's under $100

 

Also I managed to fix the brightness issue by turning up the Screen knob on the flyback, so I am making progress. Colours still look terrible but I'm guessing this is the degauss issue. Thanks for your help guys, hopefully there is life in this old screen still.

 

Then buy a crappy ebay one and be done with it.

 

It's very simple to determine if it's a degauss issue by turning the game off and rotating your machine 90 to 180 degrees. Does the colour issue change or stay the same?

 

It's also very hard for people to assist just based on what you're describing. Putting up pictures always helps, as we can then see what you're seeing.

 

I guess what concerns me is you're flying blind with this, and it's obvious you really don't know what you're doing. Send your damaged chassis to Jomac and get him to take a look at it. You will get expert advice from someone who knows his shit and has for a very long time.

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You want pics... I got pics! :)

 

Also I ordered a cheapie degauss wand off eBay so hopefully it will improve the image, it actually looks better in the photos than it does in real life... just very dull and lifeless. Also the image is slightly slanted(lower on one side than the other) and I read that the yoke needs to be moved, however mine has no screw release and seems to be actually glued/bonded to the screen.

 

As to getting the old board fixed... it's FUBAR'd. It's got traces missing in large areas that someone tried fixing by using dodgy solder traces, corrosion galore all over the board, burnt components, diodes and other components falling out of the holes, caps that look like they have vented, caps that are only held on by 1 leg. It's not a fixable prospect, it's bin material.

 

Not sure it's the new chassis that is the problem anyway, maybe just be the monitor is old and sad in which case I'll try and do a TV retro fit.

 

IMG_2711.jpgIMG_2738.jpgIMG_2741.jpgIMG_2742.jpgIMG_2748.jpg

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You want pics... I got pics! :)

 

Also I ordered a cheapie degauss wand off eBay so hopefully it will improve the image, it actually looks better in the photos than it does in real life... just very dull and lifeless. Also the image is slightly slanted(lower on one side than the other) and I read that the yoke needs to be moved, however mine has no screw release and seems to be actually glued/bonded to the screen.

 

As to getting the old board fixed... it's FUBAR'd. It's got traces missing in large areas that someone tried fixing by using dodgy solder traces, corrosion galore all over the board, burnt components, diodes and other components falling out of the holes, caps that look like they have vented, caps that are only held on by 1 leg. It's not a fixable prospect, it's bin material.

 

Not sure it's the new chassis that is the problem anyway, maybe just be the monitor is old and sad in which case I'll try and do a TV retro fit.

 

 

As John said rotate the machine and see if it changes, if it does then it's the Earth's magnetic field messing with it.

I have seen this many times and a degauss wand will remove most but not all of it and if the machine gets moved it will re-appear.

Somebody else has previously suggested that it could be a chassis earthing issue, so making sure your monitor chassis (and picture tube) is properly earthed may help.

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Bit confused in regards to Earthing the Chassis. Some things I read online say you should never earth the chassis if it's connected to an isolation transformer, so I haven't connected the earth. However the old Wei-Ya chassis was earthed(connected to one of the heatsinks).

 

Should I connect the Earth back up?

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The Chassis is connected to a 110V Isolation Transformer. I just tried earthing it to the heatsink like the other one, made no difference.

 

One thing I have noticed as well is my Red colour is incredibly weak. If I do a Red Screen in the Diagnostics menu is basically looks black. If I try and turn up the Red on the Chassis and Yoke connector, it just ends up bleeding into the other colours without getting much redder. The red is definately there however as you can see in the pics.. just super weak. The degauss may help, but I'm thinking if an entire Red screen looks black I may have bigger issues....

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