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Gotlieb Funland


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Gotlieb Funland

 

Finally got a bit of work done on the playfield have not had much time lately to do any work on her so here’s a start anyway baby steps every bit counts.

First off I wasn’t sure what method to use to repair the painted areas under the pop bumpers it was either touch the areas up with paint, but since I didn’t feel comfortable with my paint skills I decided print up some stickers to repair the areas using gloss photo sticker paper.

https://i.imgur.com/fsals0P.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/4gPY9mg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/I2OxL6N.jpg

Printed out decals on glossy photo sticker paper and carefully cutting them out using a sharp hobby knife and sharp scissors

 

https://i.imgur.com/zdlHjdQ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ATkvFMJ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/fv55fiY.jpg

End results they aren’t perfect but I’m happy with the end results also waxed the playfield with some mother’s carnubra wax

https://i.imgur.com/bbC254F.jpg

And lastly pop bumpers fully rebuilt top and underneath the playfield with all new components

 

https://i.imgur.com/oni779D.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ofrT53g.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/G7UuDYr.jpg

 

https://i.imgur.com/UO8l0vX.jpg

 

 

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Edited by Rob1966
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  • 4 weeks later...

Progress is slow but I Got a bit more work done today

 

Replaced the duck spinners as the original’s were a little bit worn, so luckily PBR are now making the decals to restore them back to new.

 

https://i.imgur.com/A0b9fG3.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ppYuVqT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZdJU3JH.jpg

 

And finally got some decent progress done on re populating the playfield, all new posts rubbers and the spinners fitted.

It’s slow but it’s getting there.

https://i.imgur.com/JZ1SjJi.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/33WYAcH.jpg

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Was a beautiful weekend so got a bit more done on the playfield replaced some of the globe sockets for the top rollovers and while screwing in the new rollover guides the screws kept turning because the holes were a bit worn out, so out with the good old tooth pics and wood glue into the screw holes then cut them off level with the playfield and nice tight screw holes again.

https://i.imgur.com/avyPc5u.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/1jHZ8yV.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/i5iFZbe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GGXzc78.jpg

So all new PBR rollover guides fitted all rubbers replaced new flipper bats, flipper rebuild kits and solenoids all replaced metal parts polished.

It’s getting there!!

https://i.imgur.com/4UYiq6n.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dVPGeZt.jpg

 

 

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Looking good Rob. Do you use a tumbler for polishing the metal parts? If so, what do you put in yours? Walnut and some form of liquid polish?

 

Hey Stu

No I don’t use a tumbler but to buy one is high on my priorities especially if I keep doing these restorations, and for my polishing so far I’ve been doing it the hard way by hand using autosol metal polish that you can get from Bunnings and I also use some buffing attachments in my cordless drill with pretty good results.

I admit it’s not the easiest way or probably not the most effective way but I’ve just been try to use what I have on hand.

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Gotlieb Funland

 

It’s such a beautiful day today so I got a bit more done on the old girl.

This time the wooden ball guides needed some work after the machine being in storage for god knows how long they looked pretty much like bare dirty wood.

https://i.imgur.com/sZrlDgj.jpg

So after a lot of sanding and about 6 coats of Bondall Monacell clear gloss wood varnish.

https://i.imgur.com/EIANQty.jpg

eb6e24f4c5f0c106fb3ade4a96e2e77b.jpg

 

https://i.imgur.com/nkYYOuZ.jpg

Ready to install the re varnished guides

https://i.imgur.com/uanYygP.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/TLYYmAi.jpg

Also replaced the top guide brace and ball shooter rail impact plate with new items from PBR

https://i.imgur.com/yNh6kTe.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qzw5vP5.jpg

So all done with that and yet another part of the puzzle to cross off the list

 

https://i.imgur.com/UosgIiZ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SFCBuUm.jpg

 

 

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Edited by Rob1966
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  • 1 month later...

Haven’t updated for awhile as I’ve been busy doing a bit of work on my Playboy machine and I’ve been waiting for parts to get here and have also sent some pieces off to be nickel plated.

Anyway’s as stated in another thread that I started about wanted a coil bracket, I decided to replace the coils on the slingshots as I thought just imagine how many 100s of thousands of times they have gone off.

Well at first I was just going to leave them but after dismantling them boy am I glad I did as one of the rivets that holds the coil stop to the bracket had failed and the rivet end and stop were both loose and able to float around in the centre of the coil and probably cause some damage.

https://i.imgur.com/qopdRDa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/W6HPKu1.jpg

The new coil brackets from PBR only one was faulty but I decided to change both the other one can go in the spares box.

https://i.imgur.com/lXWQNML.jpg

Not a big deal but the holes in the new brackets were a tad to small so had to drill them out bigger.

https://i.imgur.com/izbhqhC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Uj4dVtN.jpg

Ahh new shiny slingshot mechs[emoji846]

https://i.imgur.com/N0404eb.jpg

And fitted back in place, I also got a call from The platers that my nickel bits are ready so just have to wait for them to be posted and I can get the playfield off the rotisserie, and then finish fitting the top apron and bottom apron and pretty much get the playfield back in the machine for the first time in ages.

https://i.imgur.com/Zojw2r4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6v7ewN2.jpg

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got some of my parts back from the being nickel plated and boy did I have a hard time getting these few things done this time, I pretty much emailed every plating business in and around Melbourne.

The guys that did the nickel plating for my Covergirl resto were just not answering any of my emails so I couldn’t use them again so the the hunt began for a new mob to use, a lot didn’t answer back and those that did their prices ranged up to $1500 WTF so I took a few parts out that ended up cleaning up ok with a bit of a good polishing, but I was left with these other parts that I just couldn’t use as they were due to rust and pitting that I just couldn’t get off.

I finally found a mob to do my parts at a reasonable price and posted them right off to them, but when I finally got the parts back with heaps of nagging and texts after about 3 weeks after he told me that they were ready.

I gotta tell you I wouldn’t recommend them as they didn’t come up anywhere near as good as the last place that done them for me which were Master platers in Melbourne, this mob AALelectroplaters of Dandenong were as rough as hell.

You could see by the finish that they didn’t prep them very well and didn’t clean them off at all when they took them out of the tanks as you could see brown liquid marks on them that I had to polish out, and the packing was the worst that I have ever seen the last mob wrapped everything individually this mob just chucked everything together in a postage bag that was to small so he ripped the corner off so the longer playfield glass channel was sticking out of the bag just covered up with a bit of sticky tape.

But having said and got all that off my chest the parts did look a little bit better than they were when I sent them off so I’m not going to dwell on it, so here are the parts fitted back on the machine.

 

First the coin slot guides for the coin mechs

https://i.imgur.com/htzZOCD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/JXDJn1v.jpg

Next up are the playfield ball eject guides

https://i.imgur.com/Ng56vTk.jpg

Then lastly the back of the playfield glass guide parts

https://i.imgur.com/AB1F1cc.jpg

 

 

 

 

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looks good to me :unsure

 

The last lot I had done were perfect and believe me I tried hard to hide the defects with my pics that I took you can tell close up that they did bugger all prep work on them, but like I said they are better than they were before so I’m not dwelling on it’s good enough.

 

 

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So basically you went with the lowest price in Melbourne and yours shocked you didn’t get the best job ? But now you’ve smeared their business name you’re happier?

 

Do a shit job you get a shit review simple what’s your point?

 

 

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Because this restore has been so thorough and because the last lot of metal plating done turned out better (and cheaper) I can understand how you feel.

I have cut a few more corners and saved dollars, but Funland is presented great. Better than original overall.

 

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a little off topic, but having done my time in electroplating, 13 years including apprenticeship, barrel and still line, it helps if you know a little about electroplating before getting any done.

A while back I was given a pin and newly plated parts to fit on it.

To cut the story short, I personally took the parts back, as they were unacceptable, and I asked that they be redone, pointing out the flaws, and no shit, the owner denied that any of the parts were plated by him or his staff. This is where knowing about plating proved a challenge. It was a verbal battle with the owner being intimidated by the fact that I was right and his plating results were not worthy of the money spent. He said he would have to ask his platers if they had seen the parts before.........they all got replated to the standard they should have been in the first place.

See in most cases the plater isn't the person you speak to and he doesn't know which side/s of the item/s need polishing nor does he know what they are for. The polisher is the fella with the worst job, it's a dirty dangerous job including damaging to your health if sufficient exhaust fans are installed, if at all. When pitting is soooo bad on an item the original piece, if done properly, which means expense, would be stripped back and then polished. But by polished I mean it may have to be linished first to level out the damage. Remember being done by hand it takes a true craftsman to polish 'level'. Keeping the same pressure on the item against the wheel to ensure a flat finish. I can see how reading this I am going all over the place. Even for let's say the coin entry bracket to be plated nickel/chrome. When you use a machine to polish you will end up with 'drag' areas that the wheel catches thus ruining the original form straight away. This should be explained by an employee/owner, the risks involved. Your item/s may not come back as you expect. Take a coin chute, usually fine on the intside but rusty on the ourside.....but it has a spot welded bracket on each piece. All the baths the items go through take a little bit of each previous solution into the next bath, causing contamination. Like you will often see rust looking stains around the spot welded pieces. Rinsed correctly by properly maintained baths it can be avoided. But remembering the owner is earning his living here and time involved to plate such a small piece can't be passed onto the customer hence it's done quickly...but this has the negative effect of contaminating baths by not rinsing correctly in proper rinse baths. What's a 'proper' rinse bath? One that has sufficient water entering to dilute and ideally remove contaminants and is emptied with the walls of the tank being wiped down. There is all the water, solution costs, anodes that dissolve, costs of rectifiers, maintenance, wages, SE water checks on your drainage, solution checks by chemical supplier, chemicals, filters that need changing, motors/compressors for agitation of the cathode bar/air in solutions........etc. There's heaps involved cost wise.

Receiving a nickel plated item with stains on it, not acceptable, you need to check each piece prior to leaving and it's your right to ask, "why is that stain there when it shouldn't be"?

Pitting can be filled using electroplating, and I'm sure I've touched on this before. The item gets a longer than normal/if at all, period in an acid copper bath. It's like using a spray filler and sanding back.

Also remembering the plater doesn't know the tolerances, if any, he can work to. The building up of copper is fine, but when you come to reassemble your pieces it's likely they won't fit and/or you will have to use force, which can be detrimental to the plating as it may force it off. Adherence is the key when plating to make sure each layer takes. Going in and out of the acid copper with polishing (adding silicones) in between is a challenge. The poor polisher, that job sucks.

Anyway, I suggest labeling each piece pointing out which areas you want that certain finish on and keeping a log of all your parts, yes they can end up in the bottom of a bath.

But by the time the item gets to the polisher the label won't be there as it's been in a solution to strip back to it's original metal. You can photocopy/scan your items showing the specific areas you want attention paid to. This way by the time the polisher gets the item he knows what areas to concentrate on.

But wait, there's more.........

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a little off topic, but having done my time in electroplating, 13 years including apprenticeship, barrel and still line, it helps if you know a little about electroplating before getting any done.

A while back I was given a pin and newly plated parts to fit on it.

To cut the story short, I personally took the parts back, as they were unacceptable, and I asked that they be redone, pointing out the flaws, and no shit, the owner denied that any of the parts were plated by him or his staff. This is where knowing about plating proved a challenge. It was a verbal battle with the owner being intimidated by the fact that I was right and his plating results were not worthy of the money spent. He said he would have to ask his platers if they had seen the parts before.........they all got replated to the standard they should have been in the first place.

See in most cases the plater isn't the person you speak to and he doesn't know which side/s of the item/s need polishing nor does he know what they are for. The polisher is the fella with the worst job, it's a dirty dangerous job including damaging to your health if sufficient exhaust fans are installed, if at all. When pitting is soooo bad on an item the original piece, if done properly, which means expense, would be stripped back and then polished. But by polished I mean it may have to be linished first to level out the damage. Remember being done by hand it takes a true craftsman to polish 'level'. Keeping the same pressure on the item against the wheel to ensure a flat finish. I can see how reading this I am going all over the place. Even for let's say the coin entry bracket to be plated nickel/chrome. When you use a machine to polish you will end up with 'drag' areas that the wheel catches thus ruining the original form straight away. This should be explained by an employee/owner, the risks involved. Your item/s may not come back as you expect. Take a coin chute, usually fine on the intside but rusty on the ourside.....but it has a spot welded bracket on each piece. All the baths the items go through take a little bit of each previous solution into the next bath, causing contamination. Like you will often see rust looking stains around the spot welded pieces. Rinsed correctly by properly maintained baths it can be avoided. But remembering the owner is earning his living here and time involved to plate such a small piece can't be passed onto the customer hence it's done quickly...but this has the negative effect of contaminating baths by not rinsing correctly in proper rinse baths. What's a 'proper' rinse bath? One that has sufficient water entering to dilute and ideally remove contaminants and is emptied with the walls of the tank being wiped down. There is all the water, solution costs, anodes that dissolve, costs of rectifiers, maintenance, wages, SE water checks on your drainage, solution checks by chemical supplier, chemicals, filters that need changing, motors/compressors for agitation of the cathode bar/air in solutions........etc. There's heaps involved cost wise.

Receiving a nickel plated item with stains on it, not acceptable, you need to check each piece prior to leaving and it's your right to ask, "why is that stain there when it shouldn't be"?

Pitting can be filled using electroplating, and I'm sure I've touched on this before. The item gets a longer than normal/if at all, period in an acid copper bath. It's like using a spray filler and sanding back.

Also remembering the plater doesn't know the tolerances, if any, he can work to. The building up of copper is fine, but when you come to reassemble your pieces it's likely they won't fit and/or you will have to use force, which can be detrimental to the plating as it may force it off. Adherence is the key when plating to make sure each layer takes. Going in and out of the acid copper with polishing (adding silicones) in between is a challenge. The poor polisher, that job sucks.

Anyway, I suggest labeling each piece pointing out which areas you want that certain finish on and keeping a log of all your parts, yes they can end up in the bottom of a bath.

But by the time the item gets to the polisher the label won't be there as it's been in a solution to strip back to it's original metal. You can photocopy/scan your items showing the specific areas you want attention paid to. This way by the time the polisher gets the item he knows what areas to concentrate on.

But wait, there's more.........

 

You definitely sound like you know what you’re talking about Rich.

And as far as Doug’s stupid comment about you went for the cheapest quote so why was I expecting a good job? Dah yes I do expect a good job when I take a job to a commercial work shop that is supposed to specialise in that type of service, if it was me running that company I would have been ashamed of the product and results that were shipped back to the customer, I think I could have achieved better results by using one of those kits you buy off eBay. But I don’t hold it against Doug because he says a lot of stupid comments on the forum that I don’t agree with.

And and don’t we all get quotes to get the job done for the cheapest price? But that doesn’t mean the quality should be compromised.

The parts that I had done for Covergirl were done by Master platers of Melbourne and they by far were the cheapest quote that I got back by a long way in fact one of the other places were more than double the price for the same job.

But when I received the parts back they were very well packed and looking at the finished product you would have thought they were brand new, I really couldn’t fault them at all.

This mob did a job that was really quite amateurish and even stuffed up the easy bit that was the posting back to me, I’m actually lucky that I received all my parts back as like I said before, he picked the wrong bag and ripped the corner off so I had parts sticking out the postage bag with a few bits of clear tape stuck on the sides of the bag and the bare parts mind you and you and you want me to give them a good feed back no bloody way.

 

 

 

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Finally have the playfield off the rotisserie and started fitting the top and bottom apron pieces everything has either been polished up re-nickeled and powder coated, I even went to the trouble as explained in an earlier post to reproduce the manafactures certificate with the games correct serial number just to give it that bit more of the original look.

https://i.imgur.com/lS6yUTt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WAHt08y.jpg

Now the playfield back in place in the machine for the first time in over 12 months which is when I acquired the game in August last year, shooter lane guide indicator back in place and bottom apron back on.

https://i.imgur.com/nE3DC3q.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/GSm4dNx.jpg

Now when I got the machine the on off switch was removed and the wires twisted together so the machine was permanently left on (must be an operators thing that they did in the day?)

So I installed new switch so it can once again be isolated from underneath the front of the cabinet.

And now let’s power this thing up and yes we have some power but nothing to the playfield as yet as the 15amp slow blo fuse is blown and I don’t have any ive got everything but them so that’s it for the time being until I get some.

https://i.imgur.com/kKNn4C4.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/IV04uAF.jpg

 

 

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Excellent job mate, well done. Looks amazing, so much better than the day you picked it out. What's your next project, or are you going to relax for a while?

Definitely a lot different than the day it came home, when my missus saw it for the first time she told me I was crazy for buying it and that it looked like a piece of junk, but she’s not saying that now although I haven’t told her exactly how much I’ve spent on it and that information she doesn’t need to know lol.

Still have a bit to do with this one to get it mechanically right but at least all the cosmetics are done, and as far as that next project goes I’m always on the lookout.[emoji846]

 

 

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Ok it’s starting to come alive I’ve managed to get power to the playfield looks like there was a dodgy fuse clip.

I think I have a lot of work yet to get this one to a playable condition but will nut it out one step at a time @kimbleseven Jesse I feel your pain lol EM’s are bloody fantastic but they are also a bloody big headache

https://i.imgur.com/xkXITPM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/YouuIEH.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hvRBybo.jpg

 

 

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